Like the thread title says: have you made any custom tools or jigs for assembling AR parts?

I've been looking at the Brownell's Bolt Catch Pin Punch, but it looked like it was best suited for disassembly, rather than assembly.

What other jigs, fixtures, or tools can a guy make at home that would assist in assemble of lowers, barrels, flash hiders, etc?

I just think it would be fun to make some AR specific tools and wanting to brainstorm.

Thanks
jonblack

A few.

http://brdengineering.com

Depends on you capabilities "at home".

I would venture to say, though, that most of us who could build such tools don't need to.  Could I build a  jig to drill FSB pin holes? Sure.  But why bother when I can just put the barrel in my 6" Palmgren machine vise on my knee mill and go straight to drilling with center cutting carbide end mills?

In short, for those of us who have the tooling to make tooling, it is a superfluous step where personal builds are concerned.

simple one but I ground down the shoulder on a 3/32(?) punch for bolt catch removal. Makes it super simple and the punch doesn't muff up your receiver.

I did make a jig so you can bore the FSB holes perpendicular to the barrel extension pin so an A1/A2 front sight block lines up properly.

I made a wooden jig to support the trigger guard tab when installing the trigger guard, works great.


Vince

Thanks for the ideas, guys! If there are others out there keep them coming!

jonblack

Good looking stuff and nice bio write-up. Thanks for sharing the link.

jonblack

I milled out a hockey puck for working on the FSB and another trick is to use a 1/4x2 cottor pin with holes in it to install the pivot pin and spring/detent

While it's not something I did any work to make, I've found a 1/4" diameter clevis pin works great for inserting front takedown pin detents.  Place the clevis pin in the lower, align the hole with the detent hole.  Drop spring and detent into the hole, then push it in with a punch of the same diameter of the detent hole.  Rotate 90 degrees, then push clevis pin out by inserting the takedown pin.  make sure there is no gap between takedown pin and clevis pin, otherwise you'll launch the detent across the room.

I didn't really "make" it but my laser level worked great for aligning my gas block and timing my brake to my barrel.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/669654_Using_the_laser_level_to_alignmy_gas_block_and_time_my_brake.html

I think the above post was referring to this.  It really helps.  Just need to practice a bit.

Thanks! It all started here.

I have made a few and all very basic.

Made a set of oak blocks to support a upper receiver in a vise when other options don't work.  Basically just cut to equal pieces a bit longer than an upper and cut a channel down one piece to fit the flat top upper portion and then routered out the lower block to clear the ears/tabs on the bottom of the receiver (it also doubles to keep the receiver flat when installing the forward assist).  
You can buy the same style setup out of delrin but the wood works fine.  I have the clamshell setup as well as the botach "geissele" knockoff but neither of those work when installing a 9mm barrel with the deflector on it.

Made a set of vise block jaw covers out of some wood which is basically just a piece of wood to cover the areas of the jaws and a 3/4 inch piece attached to the top to hold them in place before tightening the jaws.

Piece of wood with a depression made with a small drum sander to help support low profile gas blocks while installing the gas tube pin.  

Scrap wood with a hole drilled in a corner to support the ear of a lower when driving out the pin for the trigger guard when changing one out.

Taking a cheap screwdriver and cut off the tip and drill a hole in the end to accept a roll pin, little dab of grease also helps keep it in place.

Toothpick can help keep the bolt catch assembly in place when driving the pin in from the other side.

Took a 3/32 drill bit and cut a piece about .350 long to use as a slave pin for installing the bolt catch.

Barrel vise blocks.

Bore a hole in a 4x4 then cut it down the middle of the hole. Wrap the barrel in a bicycle inner tube to improve the slip resistance.

You can also clamp a couple 2x2's together and bore the hole down the middle where they meet if you don't have a table saw handy.

I've modified a few small C-clamps for AR building,  including one for squeezing front sling loop rivets.
 

I also re-purpose the clevis pins from my upper receiver vice block to install pivot pins in lower receivers.

I took a old, cheapo set of water pump ( Channel lock) pliers and ground the jaws down smooth, Rounded the edges and dimpled one jaw also. Works great pressing in bolt catch and trigger guard roll pins and I Haven't marred a receiver since

I machined a piece of delrin (with a dremel) to fit onto the jaws of a pair of channel locks to press in those pins. I never considered dimpling one, but then again I still use them as pliers too.

Not a tool or a jig, but if you could figure out a way from me to grow an extra pair of arms, that would be handy.

I Dremeled a pair of wood blocks to hold a lower for installation of the receiver extension (no pics - it's ugly as sin).  I made a slave pin for trigger installation too.  I cut a piece off of a wire pigtail sign holder, filed the ends to round them and vióla!  Mine is just a tiny bit smaller in diameter than Geissele's (slave pins come with their triggers), and it works great.

I use a 1/4 x 1 1/2" clevis pin for pivot pin detent installation.  It works great, and unlike the "razor blade" method, it's almost impossible for even me to hurt myself with the tools.

Since I put the pics online for another post, figured I'd put them here too.

Taper pins are the simplest and least required tools, but they are nice.  The autopunch with a modified tip to function as a roll pin punch helps tremendously.  

 

The Brownell's Bolt Catch Pin Punch is just a standard punch with half the body removed by grinding.  It is handy for removing and installing the bolt release roll pin.

I've made delrin punch pins for the pivot and take down pins.  Made a aluminum trigger block for working with AR FCG's.  I use a vert mill for removing pinned flash hiders.  You could machine your own receiver block for a piece of billet aluminum.

I have a lathe, vert mill and TIG welding capability.  I can build anything I want if I'm welling to put in the time and effort.  For some items it's easier just to buy it.