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Posted: 7/21/2014 7:22:16 PM EDT
I have a TROY Alpha rail in bound.  I am going to convert (cut) the FSB into  a low profile format to fit under the Alpha.  Can this be done without removing it first?  If I remove the FSB do I need to replace the taper pins or do I use the originals?
First hand accounts and pictures are always appreciated.
Thanks
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 7:24:03 PM EDT
[#1]
It's easier to shave it down when it's removed IMO.   But it can be done with it still mounted to the barrel.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 7:48:24 PM EDT
[#2]
Removing and reinstalling the same FSB can be done with the original taper pins, unless you totally screw them up getting them out.  As mentioned, you can modify the FSB while it's still installed, though removing it makes the trimming easier.

Different FSB is a different kettle of fish, though.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 8:35:16 PM EDT
[#3]
I cut down my FSB without removing it from the barrel using a Dremel with reinforced cutoff wheels. It turned out perfect despite bring the first time I had done it. As others said, it's probably easier to do with it off but honestly I didn't find it to be that difficult. If I were to do another Id probably leave it on and avoid any headache from knocking out the pins and removing the flash hider.
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 8:49:51 PM EDT
[#4]
Exactly as everyone said it would just make it easier to manipulate. Doesn't need to be removed tho. Just put your upper in a vice and go to town with a Dremel or angle grinder with cutoff wheel followed by a flap disk. Dremel would probably be easier but I'm a welder so needless to say I'm pretty skilled with an angle grinder
Link Posted: 7/21/2014 10:44:50 PM EDT
[#5]
Not absolutely necessary but it does make life a lot easier.  Doing with a dremel takes forever.  Angle grinder or bench grinder makes quick work with it off the barrel.
Link Posted: 7/22/2014 5:22:13 AM EDT
[#6]
Thanks everyone.  I am very patient with detail work, so I think I am going to leave it and use my dremel.
Link Posted: 7/22/2014 5:33:04 AM EDT
[#7]
You can leave it on.

You can even use an angle grinder with it attached - just gotta be careful. What is the reason you don't want to take it off? I went through this - it's much easier just to take them out. Taper pins aren't as bad as some people say. Just get the biggest punch you can find and give them a good solid smack with a hammer. Once they move a little bit, a smaller punch can be used to easily get them the rest of the way.
Link Posted: 7/22/2014 8:32:09 AM EDT
[#8]
Synyster, you hit it on the head... chicken to take it off....LOL

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
You can leave it on.

You can even use an angle grinder with it attached - just gotta be careful. What is the reason you don't want to take it off? I went through this - it's much easier just to take them out. Taper pins aren't as bad as some people say. Just get the biggest punch you can find and give them a good solid smack with a hammer. Once they move a little bit, a smaller punch can be used to easily get them the rest of the way.
View Quote

Link Posted: 7/22/2014 12:17:25 PM EDT
[#9]
I recently did this to a 20" I wanted to freefloat.  The pins came out fairly easily for me with judicious use of a BA hammer.    I just used a sawzall to cut it off after trying the dremel route.  The dremel was taking forever and burning up disks and I'm impatient at times.  Sawzall took all of 5 seconds to go through both ears.  Some touch up on a bench grinder and a mill file and then some gun blue and it was fine.  And it's concealed under the forearm so the fact that it's not perfectly symmetrical is hidden. :)

Putting it back on was just as easy, BA hammer and a punch.
Link Posted: 7/22/2014 4:19:08 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Synyster, you hit it on the head... chicken to take it off....LOL


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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Synyster, you hit it on the head... chicken to take it off....LOL

Quoted:
You can leave it on.

You can even use an angle grinder with it attached - just gotta be careful. What is the reason you don't want to take it off? I went through this - it's much easier just to take them out. Taper pins aren't as bad as some people say. Just get the biggest punch you can find and give them a good solid smack with a hammer. Once they move a little bit, a smaller punch can be used to easily get them the rest of the way.


I completely understand. Just leave it on brother. Upper + vice + Dremel = all good. Just take your time and don't cut too low. It's a lot easier to take more off than to add more metal
Link Posted: 7/22/2014 5:36:19 PM EDT
[#11]
The is a frankenbuild I put together for my daughter.  Bushmaster (circa 2005) lower, PSA M4 upper, LMT stock, rear sight, KAC RAS rail, Aimpoint PRO.  Took her to a carbine class and she wants some changes.  Lighten it up and a forend she can grip.  Replacing the KAC with the TROY, the LMT stock with a Magpul CTR and adding Magpul flip up BUIS.  She just got her BS Nutrition in 3 years and paid for about half with scholarships....I can do this for her LOL.
Thanks all for the advice and encouragement.
Link Posted: 7/22/2014 5:44:13 PM EDT
[#12]
If I were in your shoes - I'd take it off. It's really easy. They seem like a pain in the ass, but if you have a second set of hands to help ensure that all the energy is going to the pins instead of the upper moving around, you'll get it off in one or two good smacks.
Link Posted: 7/22/2014 6:07:58 PM EDT
[#13]
i had a stubborn fsb on a spikes barrel.  what finally drove those two pins out was a punch i dremel'd a divot into to get a good square driving hit directly on the pin.  i wished i had done that an hour before...

just my .02  

good luck with your build.
Link Posted: 7/22/2014 7:42:37 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
The is a frankenbuild I put together for my daughter.  Bushmaster (circa 2005) lower, PSA M4 upper, LMT stock, rear sight, KAC RAS rail, Aimpoint PRO.  Took her to a carbine class and she wants some changes.  Lighten it up and a forend she can grip.  Replacing the KAC with the TROY, the LMT stock with a Magpul CTR and adding Magpul flip up BUIS.  She just got her BS Nutrition in 3 years and paid for about half with scholarships....I can do this for her LOL.
Thanks all for the advice and encouragement.
View Quote

Well what are the odds lol I'm  looking to buy a KAC m4 RAS for my BCM 14.5 I have on the way, you interested in selling it?
Link Posted: 7/23/2014 4:13:40 AM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Well what are the odds lol I'm  looking to buy a KAC m4 RAS for my BCM 14.5 I have on the way, you interested in selling it?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
The is a frankenbuild I put together for my daughter.  Bushmaster (circa 2005) lower, PSA M4 upper, LMT stock, rear sight, KAC RAS rail, Aimpoint PRO.  Took her to a carbine class and she wants some changes.  Lighten it up and a forend she can grip.  Replacing the KAC with the TROY, the LMT stock with a Magpul CTR and adding Magpul flip up BUIS.  She just got her BS Nutrition in 3 years and paid for about half with scholarships....I can do this for her LOL.
Thanks all for the advice and encouragement.

Well what are the odds lol I'm  looking to buy a KAC m4 RAS for my BCM 14.5 I have on the way, you interested in selling it?

Sure, sent you an IM.
Link Posted: 7/23/2014 4:49:10 AM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
i had a stubborn fsb on a spikes barrel.  what finally drove those two pins out was a punch i dremel'd a divot into to get a good square driving hit directly on the pin.  i wished i had done that an hour before...

just my .02  

good luck with your build.
View Quote


I tried to use a punch that matched the size of the taper pins at first. I learned quickly that wasn't gonna work as it would slide off. I grabbed a 1/2'' punch and hit the shit out of it with a framing hammer and done.
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