Cutting Gun Case Foam (lots of photos) - Page 5

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Cutting Gun Case Foam (lots of photos) (Page 5 of 10)

Posted: 6/23/2007 9:53:34 AM EDT

[#1]

height=8

Quoted:
Hey Steveofett -

I have a Proxxon ordered (I'm cutting templates now) hat
Any other tips / advice?

TIA he
Good choice on the Proxxon. I think the price was really reasonable and the quality and ease if use is excellent. I'm sure the resale value (once you're done with it) would be fairly decent, too.

Posted: 6/23/2007 10:52:48 AM EDT

[#2]

Thanks Steve!

If I may impose on you for another couple questions -

Did you attach the templates with glue - thumbtacks - or?

How long did the wire go before it broke?

A tip of my own ... I thought I'd use a big sewing (or small darning) needle to feed the cutting wire through the foam when starting a shape.

MikeTBC

height=8

Quoted:
height=8

Quoted:
Hey Steveofett -

I have a Proxxon ordered (I'm cutting templates now) hat
Any other tips / advice?

TIA he
Good choice on the Proxxon. I think the price was really reasonable and the quality and ease if use is excellent. I'm sure the resale value (once you're done with it) would be fairly decent, too.

Posted: 6/24/2007 3:50:58 PM EDT

[#3]

Quoted:
A 12V car battery charger set on the 2amp mode also works nice

No fooling, heck, we just went through about two dozen 123A batteries to make cut-outs for two rifles in a single Storm case.

ML

ETA - Sure turned out nice.

Posted: 6/24/2007 4:51:38 PM EDT

[#4]

ETA - Sure turned out nice.+1

Posted: 6/24/2007 8:40:19 PM EDT

[#5]

My wife had some T-pins in her sewing case. They work well as they are long and hold the template securely. Use as many as you need on each template to keep it secure.

The nice thing about the Proxxon is they give you a spool of wire--it's very thin, like thread, and there is a bunch of it. I forget how many feet of wire was specified, but you will not even make a dent in the supply of wire. The wire would occassionally break, which only happened when there was foam residue on the wire and, at the same time, tried increasing the tension of the wire. No biggie though, plenty of wire to spare! If too much residue built up on the wire, you can vaporize it by cranking to the highest setting. But watch out, that sucka gets red hot in a second (literally)!

Good idea on the needle. I used a metal kebob skewer, taped the wire to the end of the skewer, and punched through under the edge of the template.

Posted: 6/25/2007 12:42:11 AM EDT

[#6]

Thanks for your help, Steve, I appreciate it! height=8

Quoted:
My wife had some T-pins in her sewing case. They work well as they are long and hold the template securely. Use as many as you need on each template to keep it secure.

The nice thing about the Proxxon is they give you a spool of wire--it's very thin, like thread, and there is a bunch of it. I forget how many feet of wire was specified, but you will not even make a dent in the supply of wire. The wire would occassionally break, which only happened when there was foam residue on the wire and, at the same time, tried increasing the tension of the wire. No biggie though, plenty of wire to spare! If too much residue built up on the wire, you can vaporize it by cranking to the highest setting. But watch out, that sucka gets red hot in a second (literally)!

Good idea on the needle. I used a metal kebob skewer, taped the wire to the end of the skewer, and punched through under the edge of the template.

Posted: 6/25/2007 12:50:14 AM EDT

[#7]

This needs to be moved to the BOTD forum, because I just got a chubby.

Posted: 6/25/2007 12:57:04 AM EDT

[#8]

If you hooked up a potentiometer in there, where if you dialed the knob to one side, signal would be passed through a shorter wire, and through the other side, signal would be passed through a longer wire, could you control the heat like that?
Or would that not work at all?

Posted: 6/25/2007 3:46:57 PM EDT

[#9]

Hey thanks for the tip, unfortunately they dont make the "trim" (we couldnt figure out what it would be called) that the two "clamshell" halves would need to but up against one another. If you look at the pelican case or most any plastic case, a racetrack is run around the perimeters that seals up against each side. I cant reproduce that in carbon fiber but if I can find it in aluminum or plastic Ill be money.

What you are describing typically is made with a pair of mating "valance" extrusions that are bent (carefully) into a rectangular shape. I'm not sure who makes the stuff, but that's what you need to search for. The trick will be A) buying a small quantity, and B) figuring out how to form it accurately without damaging it.

Posted: 7/8/2007 7:27:19 AM EDT

[#10]

After 3 tries at DIY foam cutting, I was glad to find CaseCAD.

The foam expense was miserable compared to CC and I finally had to say Uncle.

Anyone used them before? I sent my CAD file this morning, should have my cut foam in 6 days.

TBC

P.S. - I have a Proxxon hot wire cutter for sale.

Posted: 7/8/2007 8:41:17 AM EDT

[#11]

Quoted:
After 3 tries at DIY foam cutting, I was glad to find CaseCAD.

The foam expense was miserable compared to CC and I finally had to say Uncle.

Anyone used them before? I sent my CAD file this morning, should have my cut foam in 6 days.

TBC

P.S. - I have a Proxxon hot wire cutter for sale.

EXCELLENT program and company.

I'm impressed!!!!! I was able to import scale side views into the tracing pallet and render a case layout in about 20 minutes. The trick, is to make sure you know the dimensions of everything.

Great find!

Posted: 7/8/2007 10:41:04 AM EDT

[#12]

Yep, Dave in CaseCAD Support was very patient with my urge to cram too much into my design. hey
It doesn't have the squishy attributes of Polyurethane, where you want the pockets a little undersized to grip your gear. Polyethylene requires some exactness on the pocket sizing ... not too tight - not too loose.

I kept a very alert eye on the programs running .000" dimension in the bottom tool bar ... hope my stuff fits! I only checked a 1000 times. hen
Look into it fella's - If you don't have MFingar's ability (I proved to myself 3 times in foam expense that I sure don't) it's a cool solution to your foam cutting woes.

TBC

Posted: 7/8/2007 10:51:04 AM EDT

[#13]

+1 on tack.... MFinger strikes again

Posted: 7/8/2007 8:35:43 PM EDT

[#14]

Love the thread, but quick question. Has anyone found a foam or material that it is safe to store weapons and such in permanatly? ive run out of room in my gun locker, and new toys are on the way. I would like to leave them in pelican or storm cases if possible, but i dont want any chance of rust or problems. Would closed cell foam be the way to go?

Also on the caseCAD site i cant find how im supposed to take my measurements, earlier it was said to trace items and then cut inside the lines, should that be done for caseCAD as well, or should i use the outside lines as the foam does not give as much?

Thanks, Pat

PS keep us updated on that CaseCAD project man

Posted: 7/9/2007 5:49:53 PM EDT

[#15]

Pat,

I'm certainly no authority on the subject, but here is what I've read ...

Open cell is like a kitchen sponge (not good around water)

Closed cell is like millions of tiny and intact ping pong balls (more or less water-proof)

RE: CaseCAD

You have to manipulate the resolution so that the drawing line is as small as you can get it. Dave at support told me that the drawing line is big on purpose so that people won't submit intricate shapes that the router can't handle. he
Get out your calipers and use the "print cutout" feature a lot (prints the cutout in silhouette - very handy feature) At any rate what you DON'T want to do is trust your tracing to be exact. That would be difficult even with a small drawing line, but with a thick one ... there's no way.

TBC

height=8

Quoted:
Love the thread, but quick question. Has anyone found a foam or material that it is safe to store weapons and such in permanatly? ive run out of room in my gun locker, and new toys are on the way. I would like to leave them in pelican or storm cases if possible, but i dont want any chance of rust or problems. Would closed cell foam be the way to go?

Also on the caseCAD site i cant find how im supposed to take my measurements, earlier it was said to trace items and then cut inside the lines, should that be done for caseCAD as well, or should i use the outside lines as the foam does not give as much?

Thanks, Pat

PS keep us updated on that CaseCAD project man

Posted: 7/17/2007 12:25:33 PM EDT

[#16]

bump

Posted: 7/17/2007 11:26:52 PM EDT

[#17]

Bump

Posted: 7/18/2007 10:08:14 AM EDT

[#18]

I got a discreet soft sided case I want to use for this project, can I use Memory Foam to cut and fill the container?

Posted: 7/18/2007 11:21:02 AM EDT

[#19]

ED AVILA SR,

TACK THIS !!!

Pretty please,

M. LaRue

Posted: 7/30/2007 6:49:03 PM EDT

[#20]

Bump

Posted: 8/3/2007 7:55:57 PM EDT

[#21]

any updates on the casecad and how that turned out?

Pat

Posted: 8/12/2007 5:52:12 PM EDT

[#22]

bump for a great write up!
R4B

Posted: 8/12/2007 7:36:41 PM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:
any updates on the casecad and how that turned out?

Pat

I am interested too.
I guess all the pockets are the same depth? 3" for the 1750.
I don't see any way to set the depth of the pockets, and the plug is too small to fit back in after being cut with a 1/4" router.

Posted: 8/14/2007 11:07:51 PM EDT

[#24]

Has anybody tried cutting Polyethilene closed cell foam (the likes of which is used in the Hardigg Rotomolded cases... they DO come precut, but I intend to re-make it) with the hot wire?

Also, I believe the humidity problem does not apply tom this type of foam...?

PS using surplus GI mats is... genius! They should in fact be made of closed cell polyethilene

Posted: 8/16/2007 9:59:40 AM EDT

[#25]

Man, I just used an electric knife to cut the foam in my storm case. It cut straighter than me, and looks fine. I gotta comend all of you for your ingenuity though...

Posted: 8/16/2007 11:52:51 AM EDT

[#26]

Has anyone had any luck finding foam locally? The online store suggested early in the thread has some great choices, but I have to believe I can get it somewhere other than the web.

What type of local stores/companies would carry foam? HD, Lowes, craft store?

Also, regarding the foam offered in the online store link, I'm assuming those that have ordered are using the higher density stuff?

Posted: 8/16/2007 12:42:39 PM EDT

[#27]

I think that is the most beautiful thing I've ever seen!!!!

SWEET GUNS AND CASE!!!!

Posted: 8/24/2007 11:48:00 AM EDT

[#28]

MFINGER -
All I can say is wow and thanks!

I received a 1750 for my anniversary on Tuesday from my beautiful wife.
We went out and purchased a eletric knife $20 on Wed.
Last night when I was about to start cutting it up for my REM700 I deceided to do another search... found this DIY foam cutting...

Once it was all done ...

1. New Pelican Case From Beautiful Wife $179 <free shiiping>
2. Buying and returning Electric Knife $20 -$20 = $0
3. Reading Mfinger's genius $0 extra dollars...
4. 8:49PM run to Micahels hobby store for STYRO Cutter and poster board $10.00
5. Using spare crappy wood in the garage $0
6. Stay up all night making it all look good = PRICELESS!

I used your design for the cutting board and cutter... <Thanks>!!! It worked perfect!

Here is the rest of the photo shoot :) It shows a bit more detail to everything.

And <poof!> This is how it truned out !!!

Posted: 8/24/2007 12:17:58 PM EDT

[#29]

tag

Posted: 8/24/2007 4:53:09 PM EDT

[#30]

Thanx for the heads up on the Styro Cutter at Micahels Friedcheese. I just got back and started building mine. Your case looks GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

TAG

Posted: 8/24/2007 6:18:15 PM EDT

[#31]

height=8

Quoted:
Thanx for the heads up on the Styro Cutter at Micahels Friedcheese. I just got back and started building mine. Your case looks GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

TAG

Thanks Cabal - Make sure if you bend out the styro cutter bar that you do it very slowly so it doesn't snap.

Posted: 8/24/2007 6:26:35 PM EDT

[#32]

Taged for later!

I want one for my violin case!

Posted: 8/25/2007 1:07:57 AM EDT

[#33]

tag

Posted: 8/25/2007 7:05:45 AM EDT

[#34]

Quoted:
MFINGER -
All I can say is wow and thanks!

I received a 1750 for my anniversary on Tuesday from my beautiful wife.
We went out and purchased a eletric knife $20 on Wed.
Last night when I was about to start cutting it up for my REM700 I deceided to do another search... found this DIY foam cutting...

Once it was all done ...

1. New Pelican Case From Beautiful Wife $179 <free shiiping>
2. Buying and returning Electric Knife $20 -$20 = $0
3. Reading Mfinger's genius $0 extra dollars...
4. 8:49PM run to Micahels hobby store for STYRO Cutter and poster board $10.00
5. Using spare crappy wood in the garage $0
6. Stay up all night making it all look good = PRICELESS!

Nice tutorial

Posted: 8/26/2007 9:18:31 AM EDT

[#35]

Wow, lots of great information!

Posted: 8/26/2007 9:52:37 AM EDT

[#36]

Just finshed building mine this morning and it works great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My Hat goes off to you mfingar. Great design and cheap and easy to build

Posted: 8/26/2007 10:06:50 AM EDT

[#37]

Very well done Sir.

And a OST.

Danny

Posted: 8/27/2007 10:45:26 AM EDT

[#38]

This deserves a tack and a Cuban cigar. PM your address if you want the cigar.

Posted: 8/27/2007 11:06:13 AM EDT

[#39]

TAG! This is awesome! Thanks for the writeup!

Posted: 8/27/2007 12:53:08 PM EDT

[#40]

.

Posted: 8/27/2007 1:33:45 PM EDT

[#41]

I cant wait get my build done and do this to my case!
I know y'all said cases arent for storage, but is there any thing I can do to help prevent the rust issue. Im soon to be moving (hopefully!!) and a case is about the only thing I have to "secure" it right now.. (both my safe and display case are full and pretty much open to the elements)
Itll only be in there for about a month at tops, but its humid as all get out down here!

Posted: 8/27/2007 6:27:54 PM EDT

[#42]

Quoted:
This deserves a tack and a Cuban cigar. PM your address if you want the cigar.

Were in VA are you located?

Posted: 9/7/2007 3:36:50 PM EDT

[#43]

Bump for the best untacked thread there is......

R4B

Posted: 9/10/2007 3:25:16 AM EDT

[#44]

That is exactly what I have been wanting to do and now I know how to do it, Thanks!!

Posted: 9/10/2007 5:48:59 AM EDT

[#45]

Quoted:
Bump for the best untacked thread there is......

R4B

+1

Taggage for Tackage!

_MaH

Posted: 9/10/2007 8:46:04 AM EDT

[#46]

AWESOME THREAD!

I've already screwed-up and replaced the foam in my Pelican 1750 but, thankfully, haven't yet cut the new foam - the electric carving knife method per their instructions leaves a lot to be desired...

I'll be building a 'hot wire foam cutter' in the very near future!

Thanks for a great post.

Posted: 9/11/2007 7:27:09 PM EDT

[#47]

I finally found this tread again...........tag for later.

Posted: 9/15/2007 5:33:05 PM EDT

[#48]

Well here is the result of my foam cutting tonight.....

These were all cut by hand, exacto knife and believe it or not a very sharp paring knife. Pleased with the results. The rifle case is a Doskosport AWS, this foam is much easier to cut then the pelican pistol cases. The pistols are in pelican 1200's. The quality between the two cases is night and day but I had the dosko before I got the AR. The saiga is not shadowed as once I build and SBR it will go in this case....

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1099/1388559903_0eca91a54b.jpg?v=0
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1025/1388561317_33624fef25.jpg?v=0
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1184/1388563467_ceecf8ae85.jpg?v=0