Assemble your own LOWER, UPPER, FREE FLOAT, TRIGGER, GAS BLOCK - Step by step instructions! - Page 6

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Assemble your own LOWER, UPPER, FREE FLOAT, TRIGGER, GAS BLOCK - Step by step instructions! (Page 6 of 15)

veeklog Joined Dec 2006 Posts 87 EE 100% (36) USA	Posted: 11/18/2007 10:03:20 AM EDT [#1] Anone know if the Midwest Industries Free Float Handguards install like the Troy? (Same procedure etc) A look on their site indicates that all you have to do is remove the delta ring and the installation is easy.

gaspipes

Joined Mar 2004
Posts 1136
EE 100% (8)

OH, USA

Posted: 11/18/2007 2:14:39 PM EDT

[#2]

Question when installing a 1 piece free float rail. For instance the Daniel Defense M4 Mid-Length.

Once the rail is in place, which has to be done before the FSB is back on the barrel. How do you then re-install the gas tube? Do you put the tube in through the back of the upper receiver? Some of them fit quite tightly into the FSB. Do you just push it or tap it through the rear of the upper until the holes line up and you can put the roll pin back through?

I don't see any other way to do this but maybe I'm just missing something. With the one piece rail on there you can't use the gas tube wrench right?

FALARAK

Member

Joined May 2001
Posts 16585
EE 100% (363)

TX, USA

Posted: 11/18/2007 11:29:23 PM EDT

[#3]

Originally Posted By gaspipes:
Question when installing a 1 piece free float rail. For instance the Daniel Defense M4 Mid-Length.

Just a point of discussion - this isnt a 1 piece free float rail - it uses a one piece tube. There are several pieces - including the barrel nut, locking ring, and then the tube. Only reason I make this distinction is because there are true 1-piece free float tubes out there - where the barrel nut and tube are all one piece.

Once the rail is in place, which has to be done before the FSB is back on the barrel. How do you then re-install the gas tube? Do you put the tube in through the back of the upper receiver? Some of them fit quite tightly into the FSB. Do you just push it or tap it through the rear of the upper until the holes line up and you can put the roll pin back through?

I don't see any other way to do this but maybe I'm just missing something. With the one piece rail on there you can't use the gas tube wrench right?

Typically - you do it just like my LaRue install. You install the barrel nut, then install the FF tube. Then - you install the FSB/gas tube *assembly*. You should install these together as a unit.... from the front. If you are installing only a FF rail - there is normally no reason to remove the gas tube from the FSB.

The exception to this - is when you are installing a rail tube that will *cover* the gas block. In this case - we arent using a FSB.... we are using a low profile gas block. In this case - you simple install the gas block/gas tube *assembly* as a unit before installing the rail, then install the rail.

They are all animated.... because they have really long necks....
It doesnt kick, it just has bad recoil.....

ilikelegs Texas Nomadic Infidel - كافž Joined Dec 2001 Posts 18978 EE 100% (41) TX, USA	Posted: 11/18/2007 11:59:22 PM EDT [#4] tag
	Originally Posted By EricTheHun I think maybe you oughtta get yourself an M-16 ~ Col Hal Moore Time comes I need one Sir, there'll be plenty of 'em lying on the ground ~ Sgt Maj Plumley ar15.com ar15armory.com thetreeofliberty.com

gaspipes

Joined Mar 2004
Posts 1138
EE 100% (8)

OH, USA

Posted: 11/19/2007 2:35:44 AM EDT

[#5]

Originally Posted By FALARAK:

Originally Posted By gaspipes:
Question when installing a 1 piece free float rail. For instance the Daniel Defense M4 Mid-Length.

Just a point of discussion - this isnt a 1 piece free float rail - it uses a one piece tube. There are several pieces - including the barrel nut, locking ring, and then the tube. Only reason I make this distinction is because there are true 1-piece free float tubes out there - where the barrel nut and tube are all one piece.

Once the rail is in place, which has to be done before the FSB is back on the barrel. How do you then re-install the gas tube? Do you put the tube in through the back of the upper receiver? Some of them fit quite tightly into the FSB. Do you just push it or tap it through the rear of the upper until the holes line up and you can put the roll pin back through?

I don't see any other way to do this but maybe I'm just missing something. With the one piece rail on there you can't use the gas tube wrench right?

Typically - you do it just like my LaRue install. You install the barrel nut, then install the FF tube. Then - you install the FSB/gas tube *assembly*. You should install these together as a unit.... from the front. If you are installing only a FF rail - there is normally no reason to remove the gas tube from the FSB.

The exception to this - is when you are installing a rail tube that will *cover* the gas block. In this case - we arent using a FSB.... we are using a low profile gas block. In this case - you simple install the gas block/gas tube *assembly* as a unit before installing the rail, then install the rail.

Just to make sure I understand what you are saying.....

Knock out the pins for the FSB but leave the gas tube roll pin in place. Remove the FSB with the gas tube still intalled into the FSB. Put it back on without ever remving it from the FSB? Is this correct? It makes sense if that is what you are saying.

FALARAK

Member

Joined May 2001
Posts 16587
EE 100% (363)

TX, USA

Posted: 11/19/2007 9:00:14 AM EDT

[#6]

Originally Posted By gaspipes:
Knock out the pins for the FSB but leave the gas tube roll pin in place. Remove the FSB with the gas tube still intalled into the FSB. Put it back on without ever remving it from the FSB? Is this correct? It makes sense if that is what you are saying.

Exactly.

if we had some eggs we could have eggs and bacon if we had some bacon

ahelplessnun Joined Mar 2007 Posts 154 EE 0% (0) AZ, USA	Posted: 11/22/2007 4:46:43 AM EDT [#7] Okeedokee. A big thanks FLARAK to you for the great write-up. Just finished my lower. ( Mega with an Ace super Duty RET ). Launched the damned safety detent spring a couple times...Detailed instructions, great shots of the build process, this is why I come here. Now I need to get rid of the pathetic "member" status and payback the site.

sigeq Joined Nov 2007 Posts 1 EE 0% (0) MI, USA	Posted: 11/22/2007 3:35:12 PM EDT [#8] This thread is unbelievable, everyone is giving excellent info, thank you so much..

Burritoboi5

Joined Nov 2007
Posts 1
EE 0% (0)

CT, USA

Posted: 11/23/2007 8:16:18 PM EDT

[#9]

Hey everybody, first post on here. I currently have a Colt Match Target M4 and it's post ban. I live in CT so I need a permanently attached muzzle extension to make it the full 16 inches. My barrel however has no threading and the muzzlebrake is held on by two pins. I popped the pins and the brake slides off easily. My question is what are my options for putting on a flash-hider or anything else that won't deafen me and those in close proximity to me? Do I need to have it threaded/buy a new barrel?

Thanks in advance.

dogear

Member

Joined Nov 2002
Posts 589
EE 100% (29)

MO, USA

Posted: 12/3/2007 12:30:32 AM EDT

[Last Edit: dogear] [#10]

Thanks, excellent guides! I just swapped the FF tube hg for the DPMS FF 4-rail hg....I guess they loctited the hg to barrel nut (some white stuff on the threads), because it was a bitch getting it loose (stap wrench, propane torch, then pipe wrench). After that it was a breeze installing the 4-rail. Question is: Should I have blue loctited the 4-rail hg and locking ring on the barrel nut? I torqued the barrel nut to 45-50 ft lbs (35 ft lbs minimum recommended) and seems the locking ring/hg are pretty tight, but I'd like the added security with loctite if it's not a bad idea even if I might go thru hell again getting it loose if there's a need. And should the 2 hex screws in the single rail gas block be loctited? Thanks again.

Aarons419 Joined Nov 2006 Posts 367 EE 0% (0) OK, USA	Posted: 12/13/2007 9:10:57 PM EDT [#11] Thank you for the great guide on building up a stripped lower! I can't tell you how much it helped me out. Much appreciated, and I will definetly be picking up a membership after christmas!

Wangstang

Joined Jan 2007
Posts 122
EE 100% (56)

NC, USA

Posted: 1/3/2008 10:04:28 PM EDT

[Last Edit: Wangstang] [#12]

Superior Arms Lower: How do you properly set / adjust the set screw for the trigger?

From this thread:
www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=353859

Superior Arms Lower: How do you properly set / adjust the set screw for the trigger?
0 Wangstang :: 12/15/2007 3:17:57 PM EST

I have my lower assembled other than the pistol grip and stock. The only question I have run into is how to adjust the trigger set screw. Can anyone advise how to properly adjust the trigger screw?

Thanks
Wes
1 constitutionlvr :: 12/15/2007 6:25:35 PM EST

I can't give advice on how to adjust it to improve the trigger, but I did screw mine down enough to get the pistol grip on. The screw was not comming out into the lower so it does not have an affect on the function of the lower. This way I did not lose the screw. I have heard some people say they just threw the screw away. If anyone can tell you exactly how it works or how to adjust it I would be interested as well. Sorry I cant give you any better advice but hopefully my advice willprevent you from letting this hold you up on a build.
2 Wangstang :: 12/15/2007 8:12:31 PM EST

Originally Posted By constitutionlvr:
I can't give advice on how to adjust it to improve the trigger, but I did screw mine down enough to get the pistol grip on. The screw was not comming out into the lower so it does not have an affect on the function of the lower. This way I did not lose the screw. I have heard some people say they just threw the screw away. If anyone can tell you exactly how it works or how to adjust it I would be interested as well. Sorry I cant give you any better advice but hopefully my advice willprevent you from letting this hold you up on a build.

Thanks. I am not in a rush so I'll see if I can't get superior on the phone on Monday. I have to say that despite all of the posts I've seen where people thought these lowers weren't as well finished as others on the market with small issues here and there, I have had no issues at all. P-mags fit with no hanging at all, the pin holes are all in the righ locations and the general finish of the lower is just as high as my RRA AR. Compared to DPMS/Double Star the lower is smoother and lacks all of the manufacturing marks that are visable on the DPMS/Double Star units.

I'll post pics in a few days.

Wes
3 hunter121 :: 12/15/2007 10:45:53 PM EST

Wes,

I just adjusted mine last night when I was changing out my grip. All I did was tighten it until the safety selector wound not work and I backed off the adjustment screw until the safety selecter worked with out binding. I cheaked the hammer and made sure that it locked back in place and that the trigger would release the hammer before I put the grip back on.

Now I have NO creep in my trigger. Also if you have a 2stage trigger dont use the adjustmant screw. I have heard it causes double taps and some time FA, which could be a safety issue as you no have a runaway rifle.

Also make sure you keep your eye out on the detent and spring for the safety selector, damn near lost mine when I was messing around.

Anyways hope this helps,

Ryan
4 HEATH223 :: 12/16/2007 5:44:20 AM EST

Originally Posted By hunter121:
Wes,

I just adjusted mine last night when I was changing out my grip. All I did was tighten it until the safety selector wound not work and I backed off the adjustment screw until the safety selecter worked with out binding. I cheaked the hammer and made sure that it locked back in place and that the trigger would release the hammer before I put the grip back on.

Ryan

Thats how I did mine also.
5 blackta6 :: 12/16/2007 9:25:52 AM EST

As more rounds are fired through the gun, do function checks often. As the sear and hammer surfaces wear this could cause the screw to become "out of adjustment". This option is good IMO, but one must know what to expect.
6 Wangstang :: 12/16/2007 10:41:20 AM EST

Originally Posted By hunter121:
Wes,

I just adjusted mine last night when I was changing out my grip. All I did was tighten it until the safety selector wound not work and I backed off the adjustment screw until the safety selecter worked with out binding. I cheaked the hammer and made sure that it locked back in place and that the trigger would release the hammer before I put the grip back on.

Now I have NO creep in my trigger. Also if you have a 2stage trigger dont use the adjustmant screw. I have heard it causes double taps and some time FA, which could be a safety issue as you no have a runaway rifle.

Also make sure you keep your eye out on the detent and spring for the safety selector, damn near lost mine when I was messing around.

Anyways hope this helps,

Ryan

Thank you very much sir. Can you advise if you did the adjustments with the hammer cocked back or released? Also can you advise if you had your upper in place with the bolt forward or if you did it with the upper off of the reciever?

For what it's worth, if you ever do find yourself with a run away AR if it somehow jams and won't stop shooting....if you have a large enough mag in there that you'll have time to grab the charging handle with your off hand and hold the bolt back from completing it's forward motion, you can get the rifle to stop shooting. Of course the rate of fire will be so high that by the time you think of it with a 30 round mag in there, it will be to late.

An even easier solution to a "runaway" FA misfire would be to drop the mag, but if you have a tight mag well, that may not work for you.

Wes
7 swen35 :: 12/16/2007 11:53:45 AM EST

Originally Posted By Wangstang:

Originally Posted By hunter121:
All I did was tighten it until the safety selector wound not work and I backed off the adjustment screw until the safety selecter worked with out binding.
Ryan

Can you advise if you did the adjustments with the hammer cocked back or released? Also can you advise if you had your upper in place with the bolt forward or if you did it with the upper off of the reciever?

I performed my adjustments just like hunter121. I made the adjustments with the hammer forward, do not think I tried it with it cocked. Keep the upper off. I think Superior Arms use to have instructions on how to make the adjustments on their website. Hope this helps.
8 hunter121 :: 12/16/2007 1:03:03 PM EST

Originally Posted By swen35:

Originally Posted By Wangstang:

Originally Posted By hunter121:
All I did was tighten it until the safety selector wound not work and I backed off the adjustment screw until the safety selecter worked with out binding.
Ryan

Can you advise if you did the adjustments with the hammer cocked back or released? Also can you advise if you had your upper in place with the bolt forward or if you did it with the upper off of the reciever?

I performed my adjustments just like hunter121. I made the adjustments with the hammer forward, do not think I tried it with it cocked. Keep the upper off. I think Superior Arms use to have instructions on how to make the adjustments on their website. Hope this helps.

Yep I had my hammer forward and upper off. I do remember Superior having those instructions but it was some time ago so they might be lost in no man land.

Also I remember some people drilling another hole in the pistol grip so they can make adjustmants to the trigger when everything is put back together.

On a side note, since we are messing with the trigger, when you go out to test it out at the range I would suggest to load up 2 rounds at first and make sure your not going to have any issues.
9 SniperCSA :: 12/16/2007 1:05:38 PM EST

I am by no means an AR assembly expert, but here's what I did.

With the hammer locked back, I engaged the set screw until the safety wouldn't rotate. Then I backed it off jjjuuusstt until it the safety would rotate. I also checked the trigger pull as I went. I gripped the lower and locked my thumb in place, pointing it toward the hammer (close to the hammer). Then I squeezed the trigger until the hammer was released and my thumb caught it before it smacked the lower. I did all this several times until I was satisfied with safety function and leaving just a *tad* bit of take up left.
The before and after trigger pulls (again, making sure the hammer didn't smack the lower) made me a believer in that set screw for making a trigger just a bit nicer.
10 Wangstang :: 1/2/2008 9:17:15 AM EST

Hunter and Sniper, thanks for the updates.

Any chance the mods could sticky this thread so the question isn't repeatedly asked?

Thanks
Wes
11 wise_jake :: 1/2/2008 12:19:44 PM EST

Wow. I was going to say "Go ask them in their Industry Forum," but it turns out they don't have one.

So I just tagged the thread b/c I'm thinking of getting one of these in the coming months.
12 TaterSalad :: 1/2/2008 4:41:53 PM EST

+1 OST

Wes

twinstickcoupe Joined Jan 2008 Posts 2 EE 0% (0) ID, USA	Posted: 1/4/2008 9:19:55 PM EDT [#13] im new to ARs and this forum,but i want to cut my front site down on my m4 just like this one and then put a hogue aluminum float tube on that extends over it.can you tell me what this would involve.any help is appreciated!

lazerlazer

Joined Jun 2007
Posts 1
EE 0% (0)

USA

Posted: 1/9/2008 11:27:57 PM EDT

[#14]

First time poster. Just wanted to say Thanks for the great info on how to install a lpk. I just recently bought a lauer lower reciever, with a rra 2 stage trigger and rra lpk. I have minimal knowledge about ars and i wanted to build my own. I dont know much about guns this is my second gun i own, the other is a Beretta 90-Two 9mm Pistol. But with the guide of the video and the installation instructions everything was done properly and fluently. The only thing that hung me up for a bit was the trigger installation i wasnt sure exactly how the springs and such laid in there. ( Its hard for a newbie) The rra 2 stage trigger hung up and wouldnt fire or goto safety untill i had to "break it in HARD, and with force" but now it works like a Gem, boy is it nice!! And it didnt take to long maybe and hour. I did use the vice grip channel locks instead of the hammer and that was a brillant idea. Thanks again for all your help! My upper is a YHM Spector. Soon i will have hogue grip, some kinda scope dunno yet, and bipod with swivel.

Can someone tell me or point me in the right direction on how to "break in" or "season the barrel"? Thanks for your help.

Here is a pic as of now

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh283/avarose1113/DSC00074.jpg
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh283/avarose1113/DSC00072.jpg

FALARAK

Member

Joined May 2001
Posts 17504
EE 100% (363)

TX, USA

Posted: 1/9/2008 11:56:19 PM EDT

[#15]

Originally Posted By lazerlazer:
Can someone tell me or point me in the right direction on how to "break in" or "season the barrel"?

New barrel break-in:

1. Clean it, free of any factory residue.

2. Take it to the range, and shoot it... as you normally would. 20 rounds, 1000 rounds, doesnt matter.

3. Bring it home, clean the bore with a quality bore cleaner, such as butch's bore shine, etc...

Done.

if we had some eggs we could have eggs and bacon if we had some bacon

Pitch23

Joined Aug 2007
Posts 4
EE 100% (2)

MO, USA

Posted: 1/11/2008 12:44:01 AM EDT

[#16]

(probably) dumb question: does the gas block have to be removed from the barrel to put the barrel nut on? I can't see any other way, but then why are so many barrels sold with gas blocks or FSBes already pinned on when they can't be installed that way?

I might be missing something. I don't actually have the parts in front of me, I'm just trying to get a good handle on how it all goes together while I buy it one piece at a time.

FALARAK

Member

Joined May 2001
Posts 17557
EE 100% (363)

TX, USA

Posted: 1/11/2008 12:48:23 AM EDT

[Last Edit: FALARAK] [#17]

Originally Posted By Pitch23:
(probably) dumb question: does the gas block have to be removed from the barrel to put the barrel nut on?

Yes.... unless you are just moving the barrel from one receiver to another. If you want to remove the barrel nut from the barrel completely, the gas block must be removed. If you are replacing the barrel nut (free float install with special barrel nut) then the gas block and muzzle device must be removed.

I can't see any other way, but then why are so many barrels sold with gas blocks or FSBes already pinned on when they can't be installed that way?

Most barrels that are sold as complete... will have the barrel nut already slipped into place on the assembly:

bushmaster.com/catalog_parts_barrels_index.asp

cmmginc.secure-mall.com/shop/largerimage.php?prod_id=811

www.adcofirearms.com/acc/ProductLine_.cfm?product_category=Barrels&subcategory=5.56%20Barrels

if we had some eggs we could have eggs and bacon if we had some bacon

Crawlin

Joined Jan 2008
Posts 1
EE 0% (0)

WI, USA

Posted: 1/16/2008 9:55:41 AM EDT

[#18]

First time build gathering parts. Was looking at just getting a "complete" upper from one of the above sponsors. As a quick question, for those complete upppers, is it pretty much bolt on and go, or do they not include some vital parts? Since it's a first time, was hoping to get something put together for the upper that already had any clearance/headspace issues worked through

Thanks!

And MAN this site has a crap load of USEFUL information compared to any of the car/drag race/musclecar sites I'm on. Awesome thread going on here!

Mopseydocks6014 Joined Nov 2007 Posts 18 EE 100% (39) WY, USA	Posted: 1/25/2008 5:03:15 PM EDT [#19] I'm having a hell of a time unscrewing the barrel with my wrench. Is there some sort of secret that I'm missing? I push in the d ring and then try to turn the wrench. Can I break it if I try too hard?

FALARAK

Member

Joined May 2001
Posts 17942
EE 100% (363)

TX, USA

Posted: 1/25/2008 5:20:44 PM EDT

[Last Edit: FALARAK] [#20]

Originally Posted By Mopseydocks6014:
I'm having a hell of a time unscrewing the barrel with my wrench. Is there some sort of secret that I'm missing? I push in the d ring and then try to turn the wrench. Can I break it if I try too hard?

What brand is the upper? If they didnt grease it, or if it was way overtorqued - this will happen. The worst I ever had was an Armalite. I had to install a big cheater pipe, I could not break it loose using the wrench, with all my weight. It certainly torques in the action block.... but it should not damage anything. If you have a heatgun - getting it hot helps a LOT.

if we had some eggs we could have eggs and bacon if we had some bacon

Mopseydocks6014 Joined Nov 2007 Posts 19 EE 100% (39) WY, USA	Posted: 1/26/2008 3:04:56 AM EDT [#21] It is a bushmaster upper. I am going to replace it with a Larue upper. I was thinking about taking it to the local gunsmith who is a whiz but I wanted the satisfaction of doing it myself unless I felt I would damage it somehow.

mike739

Joined Apr 2007
Posts 5
EE 0% (0)

IL, USA

Posted: 1/27/2008 8:59:42 PM EDT

[#22]

Falarak: Great job with the information on the build. I have a question and I'm sure its a "noob" one but here goes. I have a LMT with an ambi safety. I'm removing the trigger to have Springfield work his magic. I'm unsure how to remove and re-install the safety so I can take the trigger asembly out. Any assistance from you guys would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

wareagle347 JAKL Founder Joined Dec 2007 Posts 82 EE 100% (6) TX, USA	Posted: 1/30/2008 7:25:50 PM EDT [#23] Thanks for this! Built my first complete lower today using just these instructions!
	The only easy day was yesterday....

KJCA3 Member Joined Dec 2005 Posts 961 EE 0% (0) GA, USA	Posted: 2/9/2008 10:15:29 PM EDT [#24] Thank you this will save me about $800!!
	"A simple way to take measure of a country is to look at how many want in and who wants out. Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you: 1. Jesus Christ 2. The American GI, One died for your soul, the other for your freedom". Tony B

MAC15

Joined Jan 2008
Posts 1
EE 0% (0)

CA, USA

Posted: 2/10/2008 3:26:52 PM EDT

[#25]

Pretty much bolt on and go for a complete upper. Just got one from Model1, an A2, the upper is just fine, but I am having a problem with the lower.

Just went to the range (indoor) and fired 10 rounds - the first five went nicely, reloaded another five, pulled the trigger and got a two round burst! Pulled the trigger again and got another two round burst. Anyone have an idea what the cause is. Don't get me wrong, I DID like it, but the guy next to me gave me a funny look.

My lower is a STAG with a standard DPMS lower kit -

Any ideas?

red34 Joined Nov 2007 Posts 17 EE 100% (1) TX, USA	Posted: 2/10/2008 7:08:18 PM EDT [#26] Thank you for the great write up. Took me about 30 min with no previous experience and no one but this guide for help. All I used was a hammer, some tape, and a pair of pliars...oh and a barrel/stock wrench. Almost seemed too easy!

FALARAK

Member

Joined May 2001
Posts 18297
EE 100% (363)

TX, USA

Posted: 2/10/2008 7:33:17 PM EDT

[#27]

Originally Posted By MAC15:
Pretty much bolt on and go for a complete upper. Just got one from Model1, an A2, the upper is just fine, but I am having a problem with the lower.

Just went to the range (indoor) and fired 10 rounds - the first five went nicely, reloaded another five, pulled the trigger and got a two round burst! Pulled the trigger again and got another two round burst. Anyone have an idea what the cause is. Don't get me wrong, I DID like it, but the guy next to me gave me a funny look.

My lower is a STAG with a standard DPMS lower kit -

Any ideas?

First - there is a troubleshooting forum - and your questions should be posted there, before this thread.

Ok - on to your issue - most likely - you forgot to install the spring between the trigger bar, and the disconnector. Look at THIS LINK at the trigger assy. Are you missing this spring? If you are - install it. If it is present, then the hammer, trigger, or disconnector is out of spec. I would just call the dealer I got them from and have all three replaced.

if we had some eggs we could have eggs and bacon if we had some bacon

Pitch23

Joined Aug 2007
Posts 13
EE 100% (2)

MO, USA

Posted: 2/14/2008 6:25:21 PM EDT

[Last Edit: Pitch23] [#28]

The gas block roll pin is driving me crazy. I got it about 80% in without much trouble but it will not go the last 1/16". The hole through the gas tube is slightly larger than the pinhole in the block, and so the pin unrolled just a bit and will not fit through the opposite end of the gas block. Trying to tap it in any further deforms my brass punches and using a steel punch is starting to deform the pin. Everyone I've talked to says they had no problem getting their pin in. Am I doing something wrong?

(I'm using a Bravo Company gas tube with a Troy low-profile block and the included pin, if it makes any difference)

rodical Member Joined Apr 2007 Posts 359 EE 0% (0) CA, USA	Posted: 2/15/2008 9:36:02 PM EDT [#29] Replaced my stock Trigger Guard with a MagPul Enhanced Trigger Guard. Thanx for the Great write Up!! Will use it often I hope, Rodical

Guitar1616

Joined Feb 2008
Posts 1
EE 0% (0)

MD, USA

Posted: 2/19/2008 11:48:08 AM EDT

[Last Edit: Guitar1616] [#30]

Hey guys...Newb here.

I was at a local gun range (Horst and McCain), located in Hickory, MD, about a week and a half ago, renting an AR (for the second time), and I love everything about the gun. I spoke with a guy on my way out (he was looking at some scopes for his AR), and he told my brother and I about this site. He mentioned that his AR only cost him about $475 bucks, and he built it himself. He told me about this site, and how it has everything you'd need to build an AR.

I am extremely interested in owning an AR, and can't afford to pay $900+ for one, so I just had a few questions about the whole ordeal.

**I'm not sure if this is the correct place to be posting this, if not, I'd apprecaite if a moderator could throw this in the correct thread.**

What are the best upper's and lower's for the money?--I'd prefer if they could both be put together (for the most part at least), so I could just snap everything in place, etc. And I know the lowers must be purchased from a registered distributer, in which my gunsmith is, so that shouldn't be a problem to get.

Any information is appreciated.

Thanks

BBsteel

Joined Feb 2008
Posts 2
EE 0% (0)

MN, USA

Posted: 2/20/2008 9:48:26 AM EDT

[#31]

Just another simple thank you to the gentleman who put this thread together. It provides a resource too easy to get your hands on and helps you and your buddies out. To build a lower is probably the simplest thing I have ever done and partially due to the fine instructions in this thread. The precaution tips where very helpful (i.e. out of spec role pins and related hammering force and placing a wood block under the trigger gaurd when punching pin in place).

Thanks again!

Texpatriate Joined Aug 2007 Posts 2 EE 0% (0) USA	Posted: 2/20/2008 4:54:14 PM EDT [#32] Hi, Great information. I scanned the whole the thread and couldn't find what I'm looking for. Sorry if I just missed it. What punch(es) is/are needed for anything and everything in a complete build, and could you provide a direct link to where I can purchase them on brownells? Thanks!

deadboi77 Vote from the rooftops Joined May 2005 Posts 1383 EE 100% (2) MI, USA	Posted: 2/21/2008 2:24:00 AM EDT [#33] i was having alil trouble getting a gas pin started in a larue gas block earlier.and it`s too damm cold to go out to my garage.so,i used this lil tool,and it worked perfectly.and was realy easy to use... bought it for like a buck or 2 at my local surplus store.
	Anyone who tries to crash my dinner party,is going to get some copper coated candy for dessert

Mercenary357 Joined Dec 2007 Posts 5 EE 0% (0) AZ, USA	Posted: 2/27/2008 6:54:09 PM EDT [#34] What do you guys use to line up the FSB to the gas port on the barrel? Is it just a matter of making sure the FSB is on straight?

FALARAK

Member

Joined May 2001
Posts 18384
EE 100% (363)

TX, USA

Posted: 2/27/2008 6:58:34 PM EDT

[#35]

Originally Posted By Mercenary357:
What do you guys use to line up the FSB to the gas port on the barrel? Is it just a matter of making sure the FSB is on straight?

Several ways. If it is a removal/replace and pinned - it only goes on one way. If it is a flat top gas block, I bubble level the block to the receiver flat top. If it is a flip up/set screw front sight, then I use a $40 laser boresighter to adjust the front while the rear is at mechanical zero, then lock it down.

Regardless, the FSB/block gas port hole is typically much large than the gas port in the barrel, and accomodates some margin of error.

if we had some eggs we could have eggs and bacon if we had some bacon

scher2jb

Joined Mar 2008
Posts 2
EE 0% (0)

MI, USA

Posted: 3/14/2008 12:07:59 AM EDT

[Last Edit: scher2jb] [#36]

i am new as well. but i finished my first build the other day and had a few questions about prep for the first shoot. i understand it is important to lubricate the trigger, but is there any other areas of the gun i should grease? one one thing i am curious about is when i lock the bolt back, then hit the bolt release i can hear the buffer and spring rattly as it charges forward. is this normal? is there any way to quiet it down?

thanks for the help.

jacob s.

45ACP1911 Joined Mar 2008 Posts 4 EE 0% (0) OR, USA	Posted: 3/26/2008 1:50:34 PM EDT [#37] awesome

viking73

Joined Feb 2008
Posts 26
EE 100% (1)

TX, USA

Posted: 3/26/2008 7:50:29 PM EDT

[#38]

Just about finished my first lower build but I ran into a little problem. My selector switch won't pass through the the receiver. I cocked the hammer and pointed the switch to "fire" but it won't go through due to the fact that there's about a 1/16" or less of the top the back of the trigger that is in the way of the switch. How close should the back part of the trigger be in relation to the selector when it's inserted? I was going to machine off the bare minimum of material here to allow the selector to pass through the receiver but I don't want to interfere with the selector function.

Has this ever happened to anyone else?

Wangstang

Member

Joined Jan 2007
Posts 313
EE 100% (56)

NC, USA

Posted: 3/27/2008 2:56:43 PM EDT

[#39]

Originally Posted By viking73:
Just about finished my first lower build but I ran into a little problem. My selector switch won't pass through the the receiver. I cocked the hammer and pointed the switch to "fire" but it won't go through due to the fact that there's about a 1/16" or less of the top the back of the trigger that is in the way of the switch. How close should the back part of the trigger be in relation to the selector when it's inserted? I was going to machine off the bare minimum of material here to allow the selector to pass through the receiver but I don't want to interfere with the selector function.

Has this ever happened to anyone else?

Did you try to install with the hammer up/decocked?

Wes

Temsguy Joined Mar 2008 Posts 7 EE 0% (0) IL, USA	Posted: 3/29/2008 5:06:43 PM EDT [#40] AFternoon all, Last night I thought I'd install a new single point harness on my rig. I screwed up the buffer retainer spring. I wish I would have read this posting before I had attempted the install. Great info thanks Greg

coues7 Joined Mar 2003 Posts 248 EE 100% (9) AZ, USA	Posted: 4/1/2008 12:22:44 AM EDT [#41] The video link isn't working. Anyone else hosting it? Thanks.

Casman8815

Joined Apr 2008
Posts 1
EE 0% (0)

OR, USA

Posted: 4/3/2008 8:40:46 PM EDT

[#42]

Originally Posted By lazerlazer:
Can someone tell me or point me in the right direction on how to "break in" or "season the barrel"?

Ok, after reading threads for a long time here I never felt driven to respond but I will today.... Break-in for any rifle is the most mis-understood topic anywhere and I'll put it like this...if you bought a new car would you drive it off the lot like you stole it?.... well treat your new barrels with careful break-in and it will return better accuracy easier maintenance and performance......

I should preface this with this is for Non-Chrome barrels, chrome barrels should be broken in simarly but will require about half of the required break-in below...good you say? well not really many (including myself) believe Chrome lined barrels give up accuracy for less maintenance and cleaning. I have no idea about Stainless Steel barrels so someone else will have to chime in here and that.

New barrel break-in: (I'm going to add to this a little)

1. Clean it, free of any factory residue. (yes! before you shoot the first time)

2. Take it to the range, and shoot it (1! yes ONE round and clean bore and chamber with copper solvent, run your cleaning rod and patch about ten times until you have a CLEAN patch, light coat of bore oil, 5 min cool down) ... as you normally would. (NOT YET, fire 1 round at a time for ten YES 10 rounds cleaning as above and light oil and cooling in between each) 20 rounds, 1000 rounds, doesnt matter. (NO, after that you should notice that cleaning in between each round is getting easier and taking less time till you get that CLEAN patch, good job your doing it right! if it's still getting really dirty after one round each continue until you see it's getting easier and cleaner.... now your ready for 3 (THREE) rounds at a time and clean between each three rounds for no less than 15-30 rounds total. Now is also the time to start using new targets and watching your sight groups for dialing in your open sights.
DO NOT FIRE More than this...not over 50 rounds your first day.... let it have a good cool down overnight.
If you do this right it should take about 3 hours to properly break-in your new barrel

3. Bring it home, clean the bore with a quality bore cleaner, such as butch's bore shine, etc... (yep, clean with a copper bore cleaner, light oil and put it to bed)

What's the point of all this for break-in? You have a newly bored barrel, the process is rough and in turn leaves a rough surface down the length of the barrel... what you are doing is polishing the bore surface with each round you fire BUT each round you fire will leave trace amounts of copper in the bore from the fired round, that's why you clean it each time, otherwise the build up of copper will remain and those surfaces with polish unevenly eventually creating uneven bore line which will affect accuracy later.

Done. (yes, the next day you can go out and fire a 1000 rounds if you want, I prefer moderation and opt to shoot a 100 rounds or so each time I have it out for the first 5 or 6 times )

Proper Break in will pay off huge later on...if not only accuracy and easier maintenance but you can also tell a potential new owner that proper break in was done if you decided to sell later.

Prep Joined Jul 2007 Posts 44 EE 100% (7) USA	Posted: 4/4/2008 10:04:14 AM EDT [Last Edit: Prep] [#43] Please ignore this, after alot of cursing and swearing the roll pin went in. Prep

Battl3fr0nt

Joined Feb 2008
Posts 51
EE 0% (0)

HI, USA

Posted: 4/6/2008 2:29:17 AM EDT

[#44]

the troy rails suck.. I put 2 on my middy and they both have play on the bottom rail the will come off.. it really sucks.. now I have to send both of them back.. I thot it was just a bad rail then they send me a used one.. Troy has bad customer service as well they would not email me my tracking # and I even asked them to make sure they send me a rail that has no play in it cuz they said they will make sure... and no they send me a used one that u can tell has been sitting there cuz it was full of dust and all scrached up.. I just wanna get the word around stick with samson or MI.. anything but Troy.. they will really mess up ur life, gun, time and money... Im gonna call them monday and send the used one back... and if they do help me I will let you guys know but if they dont wanna give me my money back and money for what it did to my gun then I will well we will see what happens.. just whatever you do, dont order a troy rail.. send me a PM if u want more info on this or you have a bad rail also.. cuz I am planing on well I dont wanna say it here but you know...

sed6 Member Joined Jan 2005 Posts 210 EE 0% (0) OK, USA	Posted: 4/9/2008 10:33:44 PM EDT [Last Edit: sed6] [#45] Thanks for the write up! I just used the directions to build my 2nd lower! The disease has got ahold of me and the doc says there is no cure.
	God and the soldier, we adore; in time of danger, not before. The danger passed, and all things righted; God is forgotten, the soldier slighted.

HogFan Joined Jun 2005 Posts 23 EE 100% (10) TX, USA	Posted: 4/20/2008 2:01:18 PM EDT [#46] Sorry if this has been covered here, but I just read the whole post Twice and could not find it. When you go from a Clamped on gas block to one held on by set screws on the bottom, do you have to dimple the barrel for the set screws? If so, how would you recommend going about it. Thanks! HogFan

FALARAK

Member

Joined May 2001
Posts 18444
EE 100% (363)

TX, USA

Posted: 4/20/2008 3:09:12 PM EDT

[#47]

Originally Posted By HogFan:
Sorry if this has been covered here, but I just read the whole post Twice and could not find it.

When you go from a Clamped on gas block to one held on by set screws on the bottom, do you have to dimple the barrel for the set screws? If so, how would you recommend going about it.

Thanks!
HogFan

You dont have to dimple the barrel. However, doing so will ensure that you get a good surface to hold a set-screw model in place.

Install your set-screw block as normal, and tighten the screws. This should make a mark on the barrel. Now remove it.... and center-puch the center of the marks made by the set screws. Then just use a drill press or hand drill, and make a small divet in the barrel for the screw to seat into. Not very deep... just enough.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBGIQ7ZuuiU

HogFan

Joined Jun 2005
Posts 24
EE 100% (10)

TX, USA

Posted: 4/20/2008 6:49:46 PM EDT

[#48]

height=8

Originally Posted By FALARAK:
height=8

Originally Posted By HogFan:
Sorry if this has been covered here, but I just read the whole post Twice and could not find it.

When you go from a Clamped on gas block to one held on by set screws on the bottom, do you have to dimple the barrel for the set screws? If so, how would you recommend going about it.

Thanks!
HogFan

You dont have to dimple the barrel. However, doing so will ensure that you get a good surface to hold a set-screw model in place.

Install your set-screw block as normal, and tighten the screws. This should make a mark on the barrel. Now remove it.... and center-puch the center of the marks made by the set screws. Then just use a drill press or hand drill, and make a small divet in the barrel for the screw to seat into. Not very deep... just enough.

It sounds so logical After you tell me how! Thanks!!

Wes8870 Joined Dec 2006 Posts 39 EE 100% (31) OR, USA	Posted: 4/29/2008 3:32:35 PM EDT [#49] Still no A2 upper assembly guide?.... I guess I'll go it blind.

ScrinMaster Copymonkey Joined May 2006 Posts 1273 EE 100% (73) FL, USA	Posted: 4/29/2008 10:16:23 PM EDT [#50] Does the Midwest Industries MCTAR-20 7'' carbine free float forearm install the same way as the Troy rail on the first page? It seems too easy....
	My shadow Change is coming through my shadow My shadow's shedding skin I've been picking My scabs again

Assemble your own LOWER, UPPER, FREE FLOAT, TRIGGER, GAS BLOCK - Step by step instructions! (Page 6 of 15)

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