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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/27/2010 11:18:56 AM EDT
[#1]
Parts came in, went together without a hitch. Now I'm getting ready for the upper. Thanks again for this thread!
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NM, USA
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Posted: 3/10/2010 4:52:39 AM EDT
[#2]
Great write-ups. I'm building my first AR and this was really helpful. Only part that gave me trouble was the screw that attaches the stock to the buffer tube. The factory thread locking compound made it really stiff, so I was paranoid about cross threading it.
Specs so far are: Firebird Precision stripped lower RRA LPK w/ 2-stage trigger and Hogue grip A2 stock kit (don't know brand) I'm building this up to shoot NRA High Power Service Rifle matches, so the upper will be an A2 w/ 20" HBAR contour barrel chambered in .223 Wylde, NM sights, and free-float standard handguards. I just can't decide if I want to buy a pre-built upper or build it. I've been looking up parts and it doesn't look like I'll save that much, if anything, by building it. |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 4/9/2010 2:43:37 AM EDT
[#3]
Great resource! I kinda wish you'd add pictures of the tools, cause they tend to come in different sizes, but otherwise, very imformative :)
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NV, USA
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Posted: 4/28/2010 11:01:10 AM EDT
[#4]
Great thread! Between this and the Brownells videos it was a very simple process. Thanks
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Posted: 5/2/2010 2:51:37 AM EDT
[#5]
This thread has made so many of the maintainance/upgrade tasks on my ar-15's a breeze. Good stuff here!
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Posted: 5/19/2010 12:30:11 PM EDT
[#6]
What kind of tape are you guys putting on your vise grips? I used electrical tape and no matter how many layers I put on there the teeth on the jaws would poke through so my lower got mangled.
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Posted: 5/19/2010 4:03:01 PM EDT
[#7]
Originally Posted By CJFirefly:
What kind of tape are you guys putting on your vise grips? I used electrical tape and no matter how many layers I put on there the teeth on the jaws would poke through so my lower got mangled. The first couple lowers, I used regular black electrical tape and wrapped it a few times. It is important to not how the grips are positioned in the photos. You really have to use the sides of the grips not the tip. I forgot to check back on the last lower (my arfcom lower of all things to screw up) and i used the tip of the vice grips. The tips put more pressure on the corner of the bolt release pin area and chipped off some of the one corner. I don't know if I posted that above since it's been awhile, but I wanted to stress this technique. I think that the sides would have been less stressful on the aluminium. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 5/24/2010 9:02:49 PM EDT
[#8]
I'm a life long gun enthusiast, but just getting into the AR platform. This site/thread has been a great resource to help with my upcoming build.
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Posted: 5/24/2010 11:50:26 PM EDT
[#9]
Nice first post!
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Posted: 5/25/2010 11:26:10 PM EDT
[#10]
Originally Posted By Desert_AIP: I like this thread...good ole google!!!Originally Posted By Pops_garage: Falarak, many thanks for the fine informational thread. Just built my first lower and it went smooth as silk. No launched pins, no scratches, no whiskey dents. The taped vise grips tip is the way to go. I used a pair of needle nose pliers on the detent pin and it went the first try. The clevis pin trick is THE way to go, however. The only goof was I didn't think to grease the hammer and trigger pins. Just one question, if I may. Does it matter which way the hammer and trigger pins go in? Elsewhere in here it says no, but they do have off-center grooves. Thanks again! Doesn't matter. They are interchangeable. The center groove is for the J spring in the hammer, it is secured when it is installed as the hammer pin. The outer groove is held in place by the one leg of the hammer spring when it is installed as the trigger pin. It can go in either way. Both pins can be installed in either place in either orientation. Designed to be soldier proof!   |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 5/28/2010 5:32:30 PM EDT
[#11]
This probably doesn't fit in with the current topic but...
I recently replaced my barrel and added/upgraded to a Larue hand guard. I noticed that when I installed the previous barrel and YHM hand guard and went to the range I had to adjust my acog up and to the right....about a foot. Not fun and not good. This time I wanted it right... So I was thinking I should check and make sure the barrel surface on the upper was square, I kind of knew it wasn't. Sure as shit I got the upper lapping tool and it was off quite a bit. This is a "quality" bushmaster upper :) So I would like to stress checking that to anybody who cares. The tool was about $35 shipped from midway, cheapest I could find. Have not had the chance to sight it in just yet for real results. |
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Posted: 6/9/2010 6:02:49 PM EDT
[#12]
Thanks a million for this thread, I just finished my first build and this thread helped me out tremendously. Of course, it helped a bit that I bought a beat up AR-15 a few years back and basically re-built it. I replaced everything in that old rifle, thanks again! 
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TN, USA
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Posted: 6/16/2010 7:44:54 PM EDT
[#13]
Hope this is not considered necroposting but I'd like to thank FALARAK for doing this how-to. It has helped me build my first ever AR lower receiver. The part I had the most trouble with was the buffer tube detent and spring but only because I was tired and not paying attention and it shot across the room and is still MIA but it's gonna be a while before I need it because I'm saving up money to get a gas piston upper. Thanks AR15.com for stickying this because the internet is filled with people who want to sell the information when I think it should be free. If they want to sell something they need to sell the parts kits and stock kits it takes to build them. Thanks guys. |
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Posted: 6/17/2010 2:05:22 PM EDT
[#14]
The WORST part is that someone is taking this thread - put it all into a PDF - and selling my work for $7 which is posted here for free.
Oh well - cant blame a guy for trying to make a buck I guess... and have to blame the guy who pays for it without searching around. |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 6/20/2010 3:09:07 AM EDT
[#15]
That is a shame. I've learned after a while on the interwebs that if it's software, data, or info, chances are someone has it for free somewhere. You just can't stop it. The music industry had to find that out the hard way. They made a lot of their fans angry. It really is true though, if I like the whole album, I'll go out and buy it because CDs don't crash but computers do. At least I now have an app that stores all my bookmarks incase my pc crashes. That has become invaluable. I need an external hd though so I can backup the other files with copies of my applications (especially the ones I downloaded, gotta love open source.) |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 6/22/2010 4:38:29 PM EDT
[#16]
This thread saved me soooo much time on my latest build! This site is awesome, thanks to everyone.
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Posted: 7/4/2010 8:40:12 PM EDT
[#17]
something id like to add if its not already. electrical tape works best like the op used and I put it over the bolt catch tabs too. Poke a hole in the tape and put the pin thru it. The tape will hold the pin. I used the big end of the punch on the pin and hit it with another punch because I didn't have a hammer. That way nothings swinging buy the receiver. And I found out that if the front detent pin goes flying across the room you can cut a piece of coat hanger to the same size. It works great. And if you have a two stage trigger with a D ring to hold the pin in and you also loose that you can make one out of a paper clip. That works great too.
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Posted: 7/4/2010 8:42:44 PM EDT
[#18]
Originally Posted By CJFirefly:
What kind of tape are you guys putting on your vise grips? I used electrical tape and no matter how many layers I put on there the teeth on the jaws would poke through so my lower got mangled. use a punch not vise grips. electrical tape will absorb the inpact if you miss. |
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Posted: 7/7/2010 7:29:08 PM EDT
[#19]
Has anyone had a new fire selector not feel smooth moving between Safe and Fire?
I have 4 lowers and only one feels like this. It is pretty much new and I am wondering if it will wear in over time. The modes function correctly. 
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Posted: 7/8/2010 12:58:38 PM EDT
[#20]
Originally Posted By YukonBoy03: Has anyone had a new fire selector not feel smooth moving between Safe and Fire? I have 4 lowers and only one feels like this. It is pretty much new and I am wondering if it will wear in over time. The modes function correctly. Normal. You can work it back and forth a few hundred times, and it will usually smooth out. This is caused by sharp edges on the safety selector, or the detent. If its in the detent, it will break in very quickly. If it is the selector, then you can try to break it in, or work the edges with a small file, or replace the selector with a different one. I find about 50% of the ones I get are smooth out of the box, 25% break in, and 25% need some work to be smooth. It is a cheap cast metal part. |
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Posted: 7/8/2010 6:55:25 PM EDT
[#21]
Originally Posted By FALARAK:
Originally Posted By YukonBoy03:
Has anyone had a new fire selector not feel smooth moving between Safe and Fire? I have 4 lowers and only one feels like this. It is pretty much new and I am wondering if it will wear in over time. The modes function correctly. Normal. You can work it back and forth a few hundred times, and it will usually smooth out. This is caused by sharp edges on the safety selector, or the detent. If its in the detent, it will break in very quickly. If it is the selector, then you can try to break it in, or work the edges with a small file, or replace the selector with a different one. I find about 50% of the ones I get are smooth out of the box, 25% break in, and 25% need some work to be smooth. It is a cheap cast metal part. Good to know, thanks for the insight. |
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Posted: 7/14/2010 12:05:24 PM EDT
[#22]
Outstanding info THANKS EVERYBODY!!!!!!!!!!!
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Posted: 7/14/2010 5:26:26 PM EDT
[#23]
Does anyone know if I change from a YHM free float tube to a different YHM free float tube (full weight to light weight) can I just spin the one off and spin the new one on? Or will it come with a new nut I have to use?
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OH, USA
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Posted: 7/24/2010 11:42:39 AM EDT
[#24]
Thanks a bunch to all involved in the How-to guides. I was motivated to build a second AR and was successful thanks to ARFCOM. Now I need to build a third one for the wife.
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Posted: 7/24/2010 7:52:06 PM EDT
[#25]
Thanks for the effort to put all this together.
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USA
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Posted: 7/26/2010 10:53:07 PM EDT
[#26]
This is a GREATLY informative post BTW!!!!
GOOD JOB MAN!!! |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 7/30/2010 5:52:30 PM EDT
[#27]
I've added and changed a lot of parts on my ar thus far, but the 2 things I hate (i dislike other stuff but I hate these 2 things) on my gun are the flashhider and the fact it's not flat top. So since I bough a LMT flat top upper off the exchange this week now all I need to do it replace the flashhider with some sort of muzzle break (i'm thiking about the talon because I really like gogun/etac's work and am looking at one of their converted saigas for 3-gun but i'm not 100% sure what i'm going to go with yet). My question is how do you determine weather or not the the flashhider is pined and welded or just on with a crush/peal washer? Obviously if it is pined and welded I can look at the first page to get it off, if it's just on with washer do you need to heat it up or anything or just throw it in a berral vice and start turning?
Here's a pic of my gun let me know what you think. http://i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae98/zsavage81/flashhider.jpg http://i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae98/zsavage81/AR15.jpg |
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Posted: 7/30/2010 8:50:44 PM EDT
[#28]
Most of the brakes like that are pinned and welded on a 14.5" barrel. That was an especially populat barrel from Bushmaster - so if its a bushy barrel - or if it is a 14.5" barrel - I guarantee it is pinned and welded.
If it is a 14.5" barrel - you MUST blind pin and weld or permanently attach you new muzzle device, and your new muzzle device will have to be especially long like a phantom/vortex. When dealing with all this - I recommend just replacing the barrel with a new one... by the time you purchase a new muzzle device, and deal with removing yours and installing a new one professionally, you might as well just replace the barrel. If you get a new barrel - you now have two complete uppers! :-) |
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Posted: 8/6/2010 5:38:43 PM EDT
[#29]
Is there some detailed instructions on how to disassemble a lower receiver? I have a lower I need to refinish...and would appreciate some detailed instructions.
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NM, USA
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Posted: 8/7/2010 9:30:35 AM EDT
[#30]
I have a DPMS LR 308 AP4 Complete Upper I just purchased. I want to change the tubular hand guards and put quad rails, looking at the Larue Tactical quad rails they look pretty solid. Will these quadrails fit on this upper? I just bought all the tools to do this myself just wanted to know if these specific handguards would work with this upper before I buy. Thanks.
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Posted: 8/12/2010 11:01:19 PM EDT
[#31]
I have a dumb question, I just purchased a smith vortex flash hider. Does anyone know how much torque is required when you install it?
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Posted: 8/12/2010 11:42:04 PM EDT
[#32]
Originally Posted By M1-Matt: I have a dumb question, I just purchased a smith vortex flash hider. Does anyone know how much torque is required when you install it? Almost none. Torque to 10 ft. lbs. maximum. It self-tightens as weapon is fired. |
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Posted: 9/6/2010 8:52:20 PM EDT
[#33]
Originally Posted By FALARAK:
Originally Posted By M1-Matt:
I have a dumb question, I just purchased a smith vortex flash hider. Does anyone know how much torque is required when you install it? Almost none. Torque to 10 ft. lbs. maximum. It self-tightens as weapon is fired. Thank you for the info. Does it require a crush/peel washer, or are they only for timing of cretin comps/flash hiders? |
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Posted: 9/7/2010 9:31:46 AM EDT
[#34]
Originally Posted By M1-Matt: Originally Posted By FALARAK: Originally Posted By M1-Matt: I have a dumb question, I just purchased a smith vortex flash hider. Does anyone know how much torque is required when you install it? Almost none. Torque to 10 ft. lbs. maximum. It self-tightens as weapon is fired. Thank you for the info. Does it require a crush/peel washer, or are they only for timing of cretin comps/flash hiders? From my experience - vortex flash hiders recommend not using a washer of any kind. Dont know if that has changed... it has been several years since I have installed one. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/6/2010 12:03:39 PM EDT
[#35]
Dumb question here
I need to remove my front sight on the upper, what is the best way to remove my Vortex flash hider. Just pad the barrel and clamp it to the vise or put the upper in the action block and clamp it to the vise and remove the Vortex? Which is the most common way. Thanks for the reply. |
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Posted: 10/6/2010 3:12:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FALARAK]
[#36]
Originally Posted By Viper49: Dumb question here I need to remove my front sight on the upper, what is the best way to remove my Vortex flash hider. Just pad the barrel and clamp it to the vise or put the upper in the action block and clamp it to the vise and remove the Vortex? Which is the most common way. Thanks for the reply. The correct way to remove a muzzle device is always to clamp on the barrel. If you clamp on the upper, if the muzzle device is tight, this can put undue stress on the indexing pin in the upper receiver, even shear it in extreme cases. A vortex should only be installed hand tight, provided it isnt on a 14.5" barrel and pinned/welded. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 10/6/2010 7:15:54 PM EDT
[#37]
THanks for the reply and the barrel is 16 inches on a RRA upper.
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 10/8/2010 1:12:02 AM EDT
[#38]
Hi, I have an A2 upper and I want to change it to a A3 using the same barrel, Can I use the same directions for changing the barrel?
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Posted: 10/8/2010 11:32:15 AM EDT
[#39]
Originally Posted By SMB42: Hi, I have an A2 upper and I want to change it to a A3 using the same barrel, Can I use the same directions for changing the barrel? Yes. |
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Posted: 11/4/2010 6:54:49 PM EDT
[#40]
Just used your instructions to assemble my first lower.
That made it extremely easy, thanks for taking the time to post all this. |
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Posted: 11/8/2010 6:11:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: PC-Tech]
[#41]
Not sure if it will help anyone. But I mad a video on installing a Magpul MOE Trigger Guard. The non-shiny pin version
. So if you have a safe queen, this is how I do it. it's in HD. I hope you all like it. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/2/2011 10:54:42 AM EDT
[#42]
What would be a substitute for moly grease? White lithium grease? Can't seem to find moly grease anywhere locally. Walmart, O'riley's.
Also the snugging up the barrel 3 times, am I getting this right. You turn the wrench till it's tight, then back the nut back off, and tighten again and repeat? |
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Posted: 1/11/2011 7:55:48 PM EDT
[#43]
Originally Posted By JeremyinTX:
What would be a substitute for moly grease? White lithium grease? Can't seem to find moly grease anywhere locally. Walmart, O'riley's. Also the snugging up the barrel 3 times, am I getting this right. You turn the wrench till it's tight, then back the nut back off, and tighten again and repeat? Try napa. My local napa had a 5oz tube for $6. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 1/13/2011 1:12:20 PM EDT
[#44]
Maybe Im off, but I dont see anything as far as assembling an upper from scratch, only changing barrels or installing different guards? Has noone made a how to assemble the upper thread?
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Posted: 1/13/2011 6:57:34 PM EDT
[#45]
Originally Posted By dnmccoy: Check this guy out. http://www.youtube.com/user/gavintoobeMaybe Im off, but I dont see anything as far as assembling an upper from scratch, only changing barrels or installing different guards? Has noone made a how to assemble the upper thread? |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 2/3/2011 7:16:00 PM EDT
[#46]
Great write up, I just want to say thank you very much for an awesome write-up
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Posted: 2/8/2011 12:23:52 AM EDT
[#47]
Originally Posted By dnmccoy:
Maybe Im off, but I dont see anything as far as assembling an upper from scratch, only changing barrels or installing different guards? Has noone made a how to assemble the upper thread? Pretty much the same steps...you just don't have to remove the old barrel first. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/11/2011 2:04:56 PM EDT
[#48]
Long time reader, first time poster...just wanted to say thanks a ton. Just used your guide to put together my first stripped lower, took about 40 mins and everything works great. Awesome job on the walk through!
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Posted: 3/3/2011 1:16:18 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Mastah_Shake]
[#49]
Thank you so much for this instruction set. Just finished my first build. Here is my new AR pistol that I am quite giddy about owning.
Excuse the crappy cell phone pics. Thanks again for the thread. -Shake |
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Posted: 3/6/2011 4:44:43 PM EDT
[#50]
Just put together my first lower. Thanks for the help.
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