im likeing froglube lately . any pros or cons ?



     dagg . . . . .

Slip 2000 EWL or Fireclean

M-Pro 7

hey guys . . ive heard of slip , but not the other two . tell me why u prefer each one . btw im not in the camp of "run it wet " i run my guns damp or dry . they run flawless ! glock , AA middy , DI carbine , ak .


  dagg . . . .

I was Froglube man for quite a bit, but lately I'm becoming more of a FireClean supporter.
- No need to 'bake' it in to get ideal protection.
- Removes baked on carbon & fouling easier.
- Doesn't get tacky/gummy when cold.
- Tends to last a bit longer than FG.

FG is still top quality lubricant, but FireClean seems to have just a bit more in its plus column.
My review of course  is subjective. YMMV.

Gun Juice from Microlon.

I run some good ol' Mobile 1 motor oil through mine.

Slip EWL or plain old CLP

since i only have piston guns, i just use the gunslick ultra lube that comes in my cleaning kits. n ya know what? it's never given me an issue, it doesn't get hot n burn up,  it isn't hard to clean off of my BCG, and nothing sticks to my bcg.

if i had a DI gun i'd probably be more worried about using a high quality lubricant, but i don't, so i'm not.

I prefer to lube my piston guns with the tears of pissed of, die hard DI guys who swear DI is the end all be all of ARs. When that runs out, I use miltec, CLP, motor oil, or ATF. I've tried some white lithium grease lately, that works good too.

i must say guys there seems to be a poplar vote for the thicker grease . i dont like it to run in , i perfer it to be honey like . im goin try and get a sample of each of these and do my own tests . clp and slip seem to be getting the most votes though .


        dagg . . . .

Synthetic Motor Oil has great lubrication and excellent heat viscosity breakdown resilience  properties. It also makes a cheap rust inhibitor and protectant for long team storage of metal parts.

But, as a gun lube  I approach it with trepidation. Motor oils were designed to be used inside of a sealed environment (basically a giant air pump) for lubricity, not in a open, dirty environment managing dirt, corrosives and powders and its not really a penetrate or cleaner either.

Chemical engineers spend time carefully formulating solvents and lubricants to work best in the environments of their intended use.

Just something to ponder a bit ... YMMV.

why use grease then as some suggest?

I use synthetic motor oil, sparingly.  on the piston to BCG a very light spot of wheel bearing grease.  If what one uses works great. Ford or Slowpar ?

Grease usually works well for piston systems (AK type). They don't foul like a disgusting impingement ("DI"), so the lube/grease doesn't turn to tar.
For my dirty AR's, I prefer Mobile1 10/30 (because it needs to handle heat and stay fluid to carry that carbon crap out), where as on (well... just about any normal system (NON DI) piston systems I like to use grease. The rule of thumb is "if it slides, grease it. If it spins, oil it". Most all firearms is a sliding movement (thus most are fine with grease such as white lithium grease), but the AR is a fouling beast and has it's own disgusting appetite (oil).

Adam Arms Q&A:
"Oiling the piston system is not necessary; however, if you choose to do so, apply only a thin coat over the moving parts."

doesn't  Synthetic Motor Oil run big time ? and does it run more when warm ?


       dagg . . . .

Some grew up on the word-of-mouth benefits of Shell Aero Grease. It's been around for decades now. in 1970-80 whatever there weren't very many lubricants that focused on the gun market, especially one for the AR which runs hot and dirty. Some intrepid guy had a eureka moment and said hey, if this is good enough for hydraulics in a environment as tough as what jets and planes get to see, then it should be fine for my hot and dirty rifle.

Aeroshell was a boon because it worked and it lasted - although painfully expensive, but anything aeronautically rated typically is.

However 30 years later we have a mind numbing number of products specially engineered to have properties for the exacting needs of firearms and do more than just lube. They're hydrophobic, and penetrate. They bond on the microscopic level to metal and fill layers. They molecularly break down links in Carbon atoms. Some will slightly work to neutralize corrosives. Some are even non-toxic ... all while lubing.

So I guess the point I am making is why would I want to compromise and use a compromised product for a non-intended use in an environment it was never designed for, when we so many tailored products.
Lube is proliferate ... there so many of them. Hell, I could rub a warm raw beef brisket fat cap on my BCG to lube it up - but I wouldn't recommended it unless that's all I had and I would probably want something with some more properties if I could afford it.  

It does. I use Mobile 1 10/30 and after a week of "barrel up" storage, it's run down the bolt carrier, out the rear joint, ant pooled up on the buffer. That's why I prefer grease with piston guns (stays put). However DI does better with thinner lube (oil) as the fouling tends to thicken up grease faster. I'd not use oil unless it's DI.

This

When it comes to it running when warm, all lubes will run when warm. If someone says that there's a lube that doesn't run, more often than not they are full of bull.

a light coat of Rigg grease works for me..

If your going to lube it use what you use on the rest of the gun.   Learned the hard way when on the road that mixing lubes can cause problems.

sbt12 >>>>>


what happened ? ive never done that , gum up ?





 dagg . . . .

I like to run my guns wet. Owning a race car and diesel pickup I have lots of oil in the garage. I use 20w50 on my AR's with nary a problem.
Ya so I have to wipe them down occasionally, no big deal to me.

Became a thick hard sludge in the cold...lesson learned.  Keep it simple and to whats readily available everywhere.