Hello again guys.

I posted in the retro area for the first time about three months ago after grabbing what I believe was identified as a Colt SP1 upper (not sure if it is a round or later square forging) that has a 0.25" adapter in the front and a Colt slick-side BCG at a gun show.
That thread was moved to the Archive.

It got put on hold while I came up with ideas / got my first 1911 (retro as well).

Now I've got what I think is everything down but I have a few questions. I still need to decide between a 604 or a 605 which is very difficult because they both have their appeal!

So here is my primary objective: I want to build a retro for shooting. The external look and feel of the rifle are the most important parts, and as such I am perfectly OK with using current production internals or reproduction externals. I do not feel the need to hunt down 100% proper, genuine Colt parts etc (although HipShot's Early 604 build is absolutely superb). Additionally, the finish on the upper I have seems to be in really nice shape so I'd rather not refinish it if I don't have to since it is an original Colt upper (please feel free to tell me if that is silly)


With that in mind I have compiled what I think is an accurate list of parts that I will require to build my goal. I'd like some of you more experienced guys to take a look and tell me what you think. Sorry if some of these are very obvious (like the handguard cap), but I want to make sure I have everything listed.

----------Parts List----------
Lower Receiver: NoDak Spud NDS-XM16E1 "Partial Fence" Lower. I plann to send my upper in so they can try and match it with a lower color wise.
Barrel: Two options. Brownell's has a 20" barrel that I could use for either model. For a 605 it was suggested I send it to Retro Arms Works to get it cut down and have a flash hider permanently attached  and have the gas port opened. Fulton Armory also has pre-cut 16", USGI Colt barrels. I would still need to send it in to be cut further and have the flash hider attached, but it is a bit cheaper and the gas port is already opened up. Any input on either would be great
Handguards: Triangular rifle handguards. Technically they should have no drain holes, but I am not sure if that is something you could see from the outside or not. What I am not sure of is if I should be trying to find the glossier ones, the semi-matte ones, or the motted ones.
Stock: Type D Solid Buttstock. Same thing finish wise as the handguards.
Pistol Grip: Does the "A1" style fit these rifles? I don't visually see a difference on the reference guides I have looked at, but I am not sure. Same finish thing as the stock and handguards.
Charging handle: Current Design. I was planning to grab it from Nodak in the XM grey.
Front Sight Base: I don't know what would come with either of the intended barrels. Based on what I found, a 604 would use the forged one with the flash removed while the 605 could have used that or a cast one. A 605 would require the bayonet lug to be shaved off and that would require refinishing. Assuming the barrels in question would have the flash still present, would the best choice be to grind it off like JeepDan did or try to find/purchase a correct one to have mounted? I don't know what having something refinished entails, but I do know that I do not have the same tools as JeepDan did. I'd basically have a rotary tool, some bits, some sand paper, and elbow grease.
Slip Ring: Flat slip ring. I didn't see any difference between the flat ones during production
Handguard Cap: Triangular with a 0.625" hole.
Muzzle Device: Improved 3 prong. Finding an original would probably match color better, but I doubt re-finishing would be an issue. Originals are also similar to reproductions in cost, so might as well go original.
Muzzle Device Washer: Split-Type lock washer. I don't know if this would be needed for a 605 with a permanent flash hider.
Dust Cover: "Later" style with the small rectangular detent plate. My upper currently has an A2 style, which while it seems to match the color spot on, is pretty obviously wrong, even to me!
Selector: "Later" style without the tick mark. The 605 apparently had some with the dimple.
Pivot Pins: "Later" style without the dimples. The 605 apparently could have had either.
Bolt Catch: Later / Current style with the serrated foot
Magazine Release: Circular ridge type
Front Sight Post: Round post style.
Buffer Tube: Original style without wrench flat. Later 604's apparently had the wrench flat. I don't know if the wrench flat would be visible when assembled.
Buffer: Apparently the 604 could have used a Edgewater or Improved depending on year. A 605 would use an Edgewater. I really don't feel the need to go with an Edgewater one, but I did find some Vietnam-era "Improved" ones on a parts sight. Is there any reason that one wouldn't work / any reason I should get a modern one?
Stock Screw: A1 length with no drain hole.



-----Compatibility Questions-----
-The upper I have has a reducing bushing in the front for a standard 0.25" pivot pin The rear does not have any modification to it. Will the rear take a standard pivot pin?
-Are there any parts I should ensure I get vintage instead of current production due to functionality?
-Is there a specific finish on the furniture would be correct for these builds or would it be pretty much open to my taste?
-Some handguards list "hairline cracks" in their description. Is there a set rule on just what hairline means in this case  and should I be worried about durability? I am not going to be beating the rifle up but I don't want them to crack and fall apart on me. Is there a way to fix these cracks?

-Trigger and other internal parts: Was there a visual difference between the triggers and will I have any issue with simply getting a standard lower parts kit for this build?


-----Part Finding Questions-----
-I've been to various sites looking for furniture and they list the parts in X condition with a picture. What I worry about is just how representative their picture is of what I'll receive. has anyone had any issues with this? The only way I can think of to get around this would be to use EE, GunBroker, and local sales to ensure that what I see is the exact part I will receive.

-What is a reasonable price for some of this stuff. I've seen handguards and stocks in what seems to be the same condition range from $30 to $90. I'm fine with paying for a nicer condition, but I'd still want to make sure it is a fair price. One website says they try to match the furniture if you buy a set, which seems pretty nice but if their prices are already high I don't know if it's worth it.

-Are there any particulars to look out for when searching for specific parts? I mentioned cracks in the handguards above, but this goes for anything really. Signs of X or Y that indicate that the part should not be considered because it has a flaw, etc


Pretty much all I can think of for now. Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any help!
I may get started on buying parts this weekend

6/15/2015: Updated title since I am now officially doing a 604.
6/25/2015: Added "Transitional: to the title. Also this build may be going full-Colt parts. You guys are enablers. I hope you're happy!


I've been meaning to add the final parts list to the end. I'll do that at some point.

I think you are on the right path with your parts and strategy. The one item that I think you are on the right path, but maybe for the wrong reason is the furniture. A lot of vendors on commercial sites that sell excellent A1 handguards, etc, are selling truly nice looking stuff. But generally it is all unused, unissued later model A1 furniture. The really good stuff that you want for your 605 is going to be older. The HGs you choose should be in good condition, but not the later matte black type. You are right on the money re the EE, gunbroker and SturmGewehr even. Haunt those places for what you want and ping the sellers with questions.

Good Hunting

So if I am understanding this correctly, the matte black type of furniture was in later years and seen on the A1's. So the stuff I'd be looking for would be the slightly glossier type of finish. Does this apply to the stocks as well?

Thanks

Briefly, Yes. Stocks and HGs are made a bit differently, and as far as material. In general the earlier stock you would want would be a type C most likely, and shiny and "mottled" would be nice.

Would this be a proper style to look at reference wise?

Just trying to get a sense for the different finishes. Probably going to do some searching/digging around EE and other places when I get home.

I just found 2 Packages of one Dozen Colt lock Washers New in Wrap in my attic, so if you need a real Colt Lock Washer.... I will send you one for free. Also I can help with Furniture, etc. IM me if your interested.....

I am sending my XM upper to US Anodizing so it can be done the same color as the Nodak Spud XM lower. Victor told me it will take 2-3 week for a turn around.

I just went and re-read that. Lol
I knew you guys didn't match color at time of manufacture, I thought it was more of a "we'll pick one close". But then I actually re-read things.

Most USGI A1 and earlier Rifles/Carbine's uppers and lowers didn't match anyway. When I see perfectly matching uppers and lowers, it kinda screams repro to me. Although some matched very well..... As long as they are close, who cares if your upper is darker or vice versa....

Works for me! I was going to be happy with "close enough" anyways. Still tempted to send my upper in for fit purposes.

I've found that my NoDak Spud lowers are an excellent fit to my Colt A1 uppers. No fitting required at least for me. Very little movement which is a change from my 22 years in the military experiences with the M16 platform.

He's using an SP1 Upper with a Bushing.  So if NDS can make the Bushing a "Fixed" Bushing, that would be a good idea.

I don't know how they would normally be, but this bushing seems to have a pretty good press fit into the upper. it doesn't seem loose or sloppy at all. The rear hole seems to be somewhat worn a bit out of round, but to my understanding that hole doesn't need a bushing, correct?

Correct.

The rear hole is supposed to be oblong, longer front to rear.

Alright. I'm good on that side then. Should just be gathering parts if the list is correct.

Use a grease pencil and mark the upper and bushing location where it lines up and fits the best. You will notice the bushing has more material on one side than the other, your gonna have to rotate it so it sits down the most. When you get it lined up properly mark it with a grease pencil, remove, and superglue the bushing in place. This will keep the bushing from rotating out of position and falling out all the time but will not alter the upper permanently.

The front bushing does not have any play at all when checked with a 0.25 pin and seems to have been fitted pretty well.

It has officially begun!

The Handguards I grabbed on GunBroker shipped yesterday afternoon.

Is it bad that I plan to delay the 604/605 specific parts as long as I can since I still can't decide? Both versions look so sexy.
My original logic behind a 605 was that I already have an 18" SPR-ish build and wanted something shorter/handier, but the reality of that is that I have a Tavor if I am in a situation where I need super short (although the Tavor can't compete in the weight category with even a 604).

A 604 would certainly require less work to be done, but with those 16" cut-down barrels on Fulton a 605 is so tempting.

Such a tough choice!

Very generous of you to help him out, Hipshot. You the man.

I was going to mention this - I would add to make sure you have the rear pin in when test-fitting it. Sometimes it might look lined up, but not be, and that's a PITA. I have an XM16E1 upper and 601 lower that look fine together until you put the front pin in. That changes everything, and the rear pin won't fit - the 601 lower is an NDS blem, and the top rear inside of the buffer tube support is out of spec - I'm going to have to file a little off to make it fit. I never would have seen it unless I'd tried the front pin and the rear pin. It would suck to put the LPK in and find this out...although still not a tragedy. Just something to think about when gluing that bushing in.

Handguards are waiting for pickup at my apartment building's office, ordered some parts from Indiana Army Surplus yesterday, and purchased a stock on EE last night.
Making a list of all the other parts I will need, from barrel to detent spring, so I can plan everything out.

I have also decided to go with an Early 604 build for a few reasons. First I can make a 604 and always modify the barrel later if I want a 605. HipShot was also kind enough to help conclusively ID my bolt carrier as a transitional 604, putting it right at home in an Early 604 build.

HipShot also gave me a name of someone to contact for some of the other small parts, but I am trying to figure out what I personally would need since I am not particular about internals being originals. Can you guys think of which parts among the smaller parts are visible and specific to a 604 / Retro build? I know I don't have to worry about things like the hammer, disconecter, or buffer (I may get a surplus buffer, but not an Edgewater) but are there some I should be on the look out for?

Lastly, while looking at the Brownell's barrel I realized they said their current stock has the F-Marked front sight bases. Is it worth getting that barrel and a new FSB (if so, how do you change FSB's?) or trying to find a different barrel? It seems that there are not many options for 20" A1 profiles and some have M4 feed ramps.

Here is my current list of parts. The parts from Indiana Army Surplus are the only parts I've purchase where I do not know the exact piece I am receiving, so their finish or what is included with the "assembly". I am assuming all required springs and detents are included with the "assembly" stuff where needed.

Early 1970's SP1 Upper (with A2 port door assembly and rear sight)
"Transitional" Colt BCG
Triangular Handguards
Type-D Buttstock
A1 Port Door (Will use the spring, rod, and clip from the one on the upper)
A1 Flat Delta Ring Assembly (Includes ring, snap ring, and weld spring)
A1 Mag Release Assembly
A1 Bolt Catch Assembly
A1 No-Tick Selector
A1 Take Down Pin
A1 Trigger Guard


As usual, thanks guys. I don't even have my first wave of parts yet and I am already really excited for this rifle!

*Edit*
About 10 minutes after posting this I got an email from UPS with a tracking number from Indiana Army Surplus. Woo!

This week just keeps getting better!
Put in my order for the NDS-XM16E1 Partial Fence lower and Colt XM Gray charging handle today after work!

And here are some pictures of the handguards. I may have paid a bit high on them but for the condition I think I am content. No cracks, nothing missing, no demil marks (guessing a matched pair of SP1 take-offs), and nothing beyond some basic handling marks.





Now I need to figure out about these small parts and the most economical way to get them and the barrel. The Brownell's one is almost perfect except for the F-Marked FSB, the McKay one is 1:9 and I don't know about the quality, FSB, or type of ramps in the extension, and almost everything else I can find has M4 ramps.

Onwards to RetroLand!

Did you try ar15sport.com? Those have the FSB mounted, and the McKays are a little more, but a little higher quality IMO.... The non existant FSB doesn't bother me, because you could always purchase the FSB separately and send the barrel off to John Thomas and have him pin it on for a cheap price IMO. I have 2-3 gunsmith who work exclusively on AR-15's within a 30 mile radius from my house and what I can't comfortably do myself, I ship all my AR work to John Thomas.

The main concern about the McKay ones is if the installed FSB is standard height and if the extension is a rifle extension as opposed to a M4 extension. I did look at the ar15sport.com barrels, but they all have M4 extensions. Other barrels I have found that are without a FSB seem to have M4 extensions and some have no holes for taper pins either.
The McKay's are actually the least expensive of the three, so that is a bonus too.


If I did need any work done, I would most likely send things to John Thomas as he seems to be hands down the most recommended and is in the same state.

As usual, thanks for the information HipShot!

I got my miscellaneous small parts from Indiana Army Surplus and my stock today. I also grabbed a Colt grey receiver extension and buffer from EE.

Right now it seems to be just the barrel, pistol grip, fire control group, and some small parts. Oh, and the lower.

Anyone think it is worth going to a gun show this weekend to see if there is anything of interest or just use the web, forums, and EE to find parts?





Some light oxidation on some of the small parts, but nothing major. I can see what looks like lint, probably from IAS trying to get them in shape before sales.
Would CLP be a good way to try and clean off some of what is left?

Gun show Retro Scores have become almost extinct, some guys here have good luck at a few shows down south and in the Midwest but other than that not much for gun show scores around here for a couple years except an occasional deal. There was a time when it seemed guys were posting up their finds seemily every weekend all year, then it started to slow down when Retro became cool again. As far as the CLP, maybe use it on the stock.... The small parts. I'd use a little gun oil, a GI tooth brush, and a rag.

Great info. I know my SP1 upper/BCG was a great gun show score, but I'd didn't want to go driving around for parts that I may not even find, let alone at a reasonable cost. Plus, I'd rather support other ARFCOM members when possible.

On that same note now that I know exactly what small parts came with what I ordered from IAS, I have a finished small parts shopping list. I had planned on getting a spring and pin kit from PSA to fill out the inside parts, but you had mentioned contacting jhud for small parts. I'm wondering what is a better route because of goals, cost, and not wanting to be a bother! I get the feeling I may have overpaid on some of the pats I have purchased, but the retro market is so foreign to me.  
Now that I have my handguards and stock, I'd like to find a pistol grip that compliments them. I have heard that this HipShot guy has some nice A1 pistol grips around.
Barrels are basically narrowed down to the McKay or Brownell's (if they get their FSB in order) but I was planning on waiting a bit. I have some time while I wait for my lower. To my understanding, M4 cuts won't really adversely effect things, but I'd still rather go full rifle. I've also pretty much settled on a 604.

I also felt a bit of buyer's remorse with my recent small parts. I've been mulling over basically everything but the port door and no-tick selector. Since my upper is so clean, the lower will be new, and I am not planning to go full Colt parts, I was wondering if it would have made sense to just buy a commercial LPK and have the parts re-parked or used the naval jelly thing to get them grey. I certainly don't want to refinish original parts.
I plan to wait for the lower to arrive so I can see how things look. Chances are I am just being overly stupid about making sure things look nice.

I can post some close-ups of the parts and stock, but for the most part they look pretty good. Flat ring has some noticeable nicks on it and some of the others have a tiny bit of surface rust that looks like someone tried to get it out (especially in grooves), but they seem good to me. I'll be installing the port-door after I use the toothbrush thing tonight.

As usual, thanks for the advice and putting up with my questions!

<Required Parts List Goes Here>

Dayum purty upper! I'm sick for slicks!

Well thanks to the Retro Finds thread and another user from the Retro subforums, I now have a Colt receiver extension, buffer, and buffer spring.



Trying to put the extension into the stock was very tight so I stopped. last AR I built was new production parts and they went together with a little bit of force, but nothing like this. I also cleaned up the parts from Indiana Army Surplus and they look very nice.

Aside from the lower, which is on-order from NDS, the only major component I am missing is the barrel. I was looking at the McKay one, but I just checked back and it seems to have changed. now the listing is showing a barrel with a 0.75" gas block and an f-marked FSB. I still need to decide what I am willing to compromise on barrel wise. The Brownell's one is perfect except for the F-marked FSB and I plan to call them to see if they have an ETA on the correct ones.

Upper parts I still need: Barrel, FSB, front post/detent/spring, handguard cap, sling swivel/rivet/roll pin, barrel nut, gas tube/roll pin, Imp 3-prong & lock washer.

Lower parts I still need: Trigger/Hammer/Disconnector (and the associated pins and springs), pistol grip / screw, selector spring/detent, pivot pin, pivot/takedown springs/detents, buffer retainer/spring, no-hole stock screw.

I'm quite pleased with all the progress and everything should be easy to get except that barrel. The plan for most of the small parts is new production. If anyone here as them for sale though, I'd rather support other Retro ARFCOM members.

Just got in my FSB and A1 pistol grip today! The EE post didn't mention that the FSB had the post/spring/detent, but it did! Bonus!



At first I was puzzled by the FSB because it had a C but no bell and I had never heard of it having one but not the other. Turns out the bell was on the other side, which is interesting. To my understanding the flash not being fully ground off would make this technically incorrect for a 604, but I think I'm ok with that.

Another interesting puzzle. My upper has an A2 port door, but it matches the Colt Grey of the upper perfectly. Any ideas why this would be? I'm going to be installing the correct door regardless, but just something that struck my interest.


Barrel wise I plan to grab a Green Mountain 20" pencil with a 1:12 twist. They apparently started offering these barrels with standard extensions, so while I have to ship the barrel off to get it drilled and have the FSB mounted, I'll have a barrel with all the correct features.
If only Brownell's had the proper FSB on theirs, everything would have been so simple.

Incorrect. A late 604 mirrors a late 603 M16A1. Everything is identical, save for the upper receivers (lack of forward assist). A late 604 would still have flash on the FSB.

Great. That works for me! Mine will probably end up being a mix of early and late parts as the carrier is a transitional parkerized slick-size, the lower a partial fence, and a improved three-pronged muzzle device. I

As of last night, I have a barrel assembly on the way and with it all the upper parts I was missing (but now I have some duplicates)

This build is now probably going to be all Colt parts with the exception of the lower and charging handle (NDS) and the three-prong flash hider I currently have (the barrel will come with an original A1 cage though)
So now I need to track down the insidey parts (technical term) for the lower that I don't already have. Going to try and source them from fellow ARFCOM members first! As it stands, the only parts of this build that will not have been purchased through ARFCOM members will be the selector, bolt catch, mag release, and port door which came from Indiana Army Surplus.

Other than those parts, I plan to get a set of the Grace USA roll pin punches and I may need a barrel nut wrench. The current one I have came with my Midwest Industries handguard and while it should work, I am not sure on it's stability as that barrel nut had it's teeth at the back.

This build is going together so much faster than my first SPR-ish rifle that I did while in college (probably because of having a job and money), and I am very excited to get this rifle together!

They wont have and shouldn't have holes for the taper pins as these are done on a jig and drilled at the same time as the barrel. You can make a pre-drilled FSB work but the preferred method is drill them all at once.

That explains why the GMRB, and a lot of the other barrels I came across while doing the spreadsheet, didn't have them. Thanks for the info.
It is a bit moot now though as the barrel assembly that is on the way has everything assembled. I'll just have to take out the gas tube roll pin to remove the gas tube for installation onto the upper.

I picked up my barrel assembly from the post office today. Since my last post I also snagged a brand new Colt FCG  off of eBay for a really nice price. Someone bought a Colt LE6920 and swapped the trigger out before firing. it may not match color wise without adjustment, but  I won't complain.

Anyways, onto the actual retro barrel! I tried to ID everything as best as I could, but if you see an error please don't hesitate to let me know.

Here is the full assembly. It came with some parts I already had, so now I have a duplicate FSB Assembly, slip-ring assembly, and handguards. The handguards that go with this assembly have a small crack but are not L/R marked while the other set I have are completely free of everything (even demill marks apparently) but are the L/R marked ones. I also have a three-prong flash hider (99% sure it is a repro) that I will be putting on it.



The barrel is C MP C marked. According to the guides, that would put it in the years of 1969 to late 1971.


The Front Sight Base is forged, unmarked, has a drain hole, and has the flash removed. By the guides and stuff, that would put it in the range of 1967 to 1970. The swivel is rubber coated and held in by a roll pin, which would put in between 1964-1970.


Th gas tube is a late bend and does have a light magnetic attraction. That would put it in 1969 or later. Also, the finish on the barrel has some slightly brown splotches under the handguards. No idea what they are.


The receiver extension is not chromed at the lugs, but does seem to be chromed from just beyond them to the chamber.


Lastly, the rifling.


Assuming all the parts of this assembly are original to the assembly, and I didn't mess up my identification, that would put this assembly from 1969 or 1970

All that remains is some small parts and the lower.

Also, do you guys use headspace gauges on your builds? I'm considering it because the parts are old, but at the same time would want to try and borrow some instead of go out and purchase a set.

Ok so another question popped into my head. Pretty straightforward and I am pretty sure I know the answer but I want to cover all the bases here.

I mentioned to someone at the orientation of the range/club I joined this past weekend I was building a 604 clone and he asked me if I knew what chamber was in the barrel (the usual no 5.56 in a .223 chamber). He mentioned that his SP1 had a .223 chamber, but I get the feeling he was referring to the marking on the lower receiver.
From what I could find research wise and considering the barrel is a Colt production for the M16 that was marked 5.56 etc etc, I would assume that it is a proper 5.56 chamber and that shooting the M193 it would have shot in military service would be totally fine.

Am I correct in my assumption that the C MP C barrels (or any vintage Colt M16 barrel) has a proper 5.56 chamber?


The other question still unanswered is the above question about head spacing.

Thanks in advance guys.

You are right.  Although Colt marked some receivers .223 they did not make a distinction between the barrels.  Colt barrels are 5.56 regardless of what the receiver says.  I'll see if I can find the document that states this and post it.

I don't have a good answer on the head space questions.  Personally I have never been too worried about it.  In order to mitigate any possible issues I have always tried to either use a new barrel or new bolt, but this may or may not be necessary so wait for a more educated response..  

ETA:  ."....which reinforces the fact that Colt recognizes no dofference between these two "caiber" designations"

On Saturday I got the upper assembled. Was planning to wait for all the parts but I couldn't help myself. Too much excitement.





The barrel fit into the upper near perfectly. Very close sliding fit with no play at all. When changing the flash hider I noticed a little bit of surface rust near the muzzle end, but it didn't appear to be anything serious. Cleaned the bore as well, which was definitely needed!

I was debating if I took it with me to the range when I went on Sunday and put it on my SPR's lower, but the lower I have has an adjustable nylon-tipped set-screw for clearance adjustment and it wouldn't seat without being changed (not something I wanted to do on the range. Plus, it would have felt strange to have the first shots with that rifle to be from an incomplete project. Call me strange but having an A2 stock to my shoulder and holding an MOE grip while firing what is supposed to be a 604 project would have been unsettling!

Just waiting to hear back on some small parts from a member and then the coveted lower. Considering the scope problems I was having at the range yesterday, a nice ironsight rifle will be a welcome change (not counting the UZI).

Just sent off the payment for the small parts I am missing last night.
This means that I now have purchased every part of the rifle and am simply waiting on the lower.

This build went from a "looks good enough" to an all-Colt with all correct parts . The only things not Colt will be the charging handle and the lower (both from NoDak) and the only thing not from the correct period that is Colt will be the trigger and hammer, which are from a current production Colt.

So close to completion!

ZMan941,  WOW, your Colt Upper Half Looks Great !!!

Please continue until she's totally complete.

And then close the thread with a Range Report.

Thanks! I have you to thank for everything forward of the receiver except the three-prong.

I plan to keep the thread going until the first range report and a summary, just like my last build thread from a few years back.

I got home from a short trip to find a little mailer filled with the assorted small parts I needed. All that is left is one last small part (on its way) and then the lower!

I may have also uncovered some sort of conspiracy theory. While waiting for my NDS lower, I found myself wandering and wound up purchasing another firearm. I took it and stripped it of the new furniture it came with and put on some proper "retro" furniture that I restored.
Not going to go into too much detail as it isn't an AR-pattern rifle, but I figured I'd at least share one pic.




I can't say for sure if the NVA or VC would have used Romanian weapons, but considering they apparently received support from the entire collection of Warsaw Pact states, it could be possible. Either way this will make a great contrast piece to my Colt when it is done. Now I just have to make sure I don't get the urge to buy a TT-30 or Makarov PM variant to compliment my retro M1911A1.  

Replace the wood and it'll look WAY more "Ho Chi Minh-ey".

Looks like you're making steady progress.

What range is that?

At least one example with a donkey dong was captured during  the war...



...maybe two. (SOG guys ^^)

Replace it with what? That is replacement wood from the beech that came with the rifle initially. Just curious what you would suggest!



ASC in Waterman




Oh nice!  I see the other one is a Hungarian AMD 65. Very neat to see some less-traditional AKM-pattern rifles in Vietnam photos.

Just got an email this evening from NDS stating that they have inventory to fill my order.

Picked up the lower last night and got my new punches this morning. Took it to the local gun shop to have the headspace checked and was told it was good to go.



Took out the firing pin and checked the cycling. Everything feeds, extracts, and ejects just fine!

Parts wise, it is all colt except for the lower, charging handle, and muzzle device. Of the parts that are Colt, only the FCG is not era-correct. The FCG is from a 2015 Colt LE6920.
The lower is very snug on all the pins and the fit to the upper is flawless. I currently need to use a pin to push out the pivot pins.

Weather permitting, I'll have it out at the range tomorrow!
Very excited about all this!