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Posted: 9/13/2014 12:22:03 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/13/2014 12:41:49 PM EDT
[#1]
Maybe its just because I just woke up, but isn't the "Safety detent hole" usually already machined in 80% lowers.  Did you possibly mean the "Trigger hole"?  That always needs to be opened up along with the Fire Control Pocket.

BTW - I'm interested

Link Posted: 9/13/2014 12:58:51 PM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 9/13/2014 1:05:02 PM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 9/13/2014 1:53:29 PM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
No, I meant the safety detent hole.

As we have no control over where you place the Safety hole, the detent hole needs to be lined up tangent with that feature to function properly.

I know other companies have it, but I felt it was best for the customer to place this hole themselves.

View Quote


Makes sense, have you seen all the guys in the Build it Yourself thread who are asking for help because they drilled slightly off and now have a paperweight?
Link Posted: 9/13/2014 2:06:58 PM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:


Makes sense, have you seen all the guys in the Build it Yourself thread who are asking for help because they drilled slightly off and now have a paperweight?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
No, I meant the safety detent hole.

As we have no control over where you place the Safety hole, the detent hole needs to be lined up tangent with that feature to function properly.

I know other companies have it, but I felt it was best for the customer to place this hole themselves.



Makes sense, have you seen all the guys in the Build it Yourself thread who are asking for help because they drilled slightly off and now have a paperweight?


if it's off, you could always oversize it and sleeve it to the correct size hole for the spring and detent.  but that sounds like a pretty time consuming oops.
Link Posted: 9/13/2014 2:13:51 PM EDT
[#6]
this is exactly the argument FOR having the detent hole pre drilled.
a jig gets the hole for the selector in the right place every time.
the detent has to be measured on 2 axis's and is a 2 step hole.
it is much easier to do the selector hole than the detent.

but it is what it is, and i applaud you (NDS) for making the effort.

and yes, i have one of the crooked selectors, it's not a paperweight but it's far from optimal.
Link Posted: 9/13/2014 2:47:28 PM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 9/13/2014 3:27:43 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



I don't want to get in arguments with customers who say that the drilling fixture they bought from JoeBob's Unserialized Underground Weapons Depot LLC is perfect and my parts are crap because I put the safety detent hole in the wrong place.


You are putting that safety hole in, and you should be the one putting the intersecting hole in also.  

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Quoted:
Quoted:
this is exactly the argument FOR having the detent hole pre drilled.
a jig gets the hole for the selector in the right place every time.
the detent has to be measured on 2 axis's and is a 2 step hole.
it is much easier to do the selector hole than the detent.

but it is what it is, and i applaud you (NDS) for making the effort.

and yes, i have one of the crooked selectors, it's not a paperweight but it's far from optimal.



I don't want to get in arguments with customers who say that the drilling fixture they bought from JoeBob's Unserialized Underground Weapons Depot LLC is perfect and my parts are crap because I put the safety detent hole in the wrong place.


You are putting that safety hole in, and you should be the one putting the intersecting hole in also.  



I was hoping for the "usual" 80% (with the detent drilled) and some XM Gray goodness.

MUCH love to you guys at NDS but Braceman will still be a popular feller AND he can do the art work too.

(Then you still need the anodizing no matter which direction you go.)

I don't blame you guys one bit for trying to keep the customer drama to a minimum though.




Link Posted: 9/13/2014 3:43:50 PM EDT
[#9]
Email sent to info at NDS

Yes whom' ever gets the anodizing gig will make a mint.  I miss Victor.
Link Posted: 9/13/2014 3:52:09 PM EDT
[#10]

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Quoted:
I don't want to get in arguments with customers who say that the drilling fixture they bought from JoeBob's Unserialized Underground Weapons Depot LLC is perfect and my parts are crap because I put the safety detent hole in the wrong place.





You are putting that safety hole in, and you should be the one putting the intersecting hole in also.  



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Quoted:



Quoted:

this is exactly the argument FOR having the detent hole pre drilled.

a jig gets the hole for the selector in the right place every time.

the detent has to be measured on 2 axis's and is a 2 step hole.

it is much easier to do the selector hole than the detent.



but it is what it is, and i applaud you (NDS) for making the effort.



and yes, i have one of the crooked selectors, it's not a paperweight but it's far from optimal.






I don't want to get in arguments with customers who say that the drilling fixture they bought from JoeBob's Unserialized Underground Weapons Depot LLC is perfect and my parts are crap because I put the safety detent hole in the wrong place.





You are putting that safety hole in, and you should be the one putting the intersecting hole in also.  



I completely understand your reasoning for this.  On the flip side though this will limit my order from "put me down for 10", to " I will consider one slick side for the flush pivot pin and mag well, and raised plus." Another option is resubmit lowers with the safety hole drilled and the detent hole. I never saw the determination letter, but GPI in Florida was doing them this way before they went out of business. Thank you for what you do for our crowd, you guys are still tops in my book!

 
Link Posted: 9/13/2014 4:04:45 PM EDT
[#11]
I am definitely interested. Anodized or not, safety detent or not. My A1 has an M16 A1 upper, CMPC barrel. But I have no clue which exact lower would be correct, but put me in for 1 anyway :)
Link Posted: 9/13/2014 4:06:54 PM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:
I am definitely interested. Anodized or not, safety detent or not. My A1 has an M16 A1 upper, CMPC barrel. But I have no clue which exact lower would be correct, but put me in for 1 anyway :)
View Quote


Full fence would be correct
Link Posted: 9/13/2014 4:38:52 PM EDT
[#13]
Email sent.

With regard to the safety detent hole, I have had to repair three or four of them from folks doing their 80% and not paying attention to detail. The most interesting safety detent hole was figuring out how to build one for a Jack Flat spot receiver which is just sheets of steel welded together.

Smart move on Nodak part.  If your safety detent hole doesn't line up with the safety hole just right you will have improper safety engagement and that leads to a whole host of legal problems.

Link Posted: 9/13/2014 5:38:35 PM EDT
[#14]
Works for me
Link Posted: 9/13/2014 6:21:18 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



I don't want to get in arguments with customers who say that the drilling fixture they bought from JoeBob's Unserialized Underground Weapons Depot LLC is perfect and my parts are crap because I put the safety detent hole in the wrong place.


You are putting that safety hole in, and you should be the one putting the intersecting hole in also.  

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Quoted:
Quoted:
this is exactly the argument FOR having the detent hole pre drilled.
a jig gets the hole for the selector in the right place every time.
the detent has to be measured on 2 axis's and is a 2 step hole.
it is much easier to do the selector hole than the detent.

but it is what it is, and i applaud you (NDS) for making the effort.

and yes, i have one of the crooked selectors, it's not a paperweight but it's far from optimal.



I don't want to get in arguments with customers who say that the drilling fixture they bought from JoeBob's Unserialized Underground Weapons Depot LLC is perfect and my parts are crap because I put the safety detent hole in the wrong place.


You are putting that safety hole in, and you should be the one putting the intersecting hole in also.  




ok, with all the plastic one time jigs (that you KNOW are going to get used over and over)  and new kids on the block, i give you the point.
i've only used one jig, a first generation CNC Gunsmithing.

makes sense from your end.

again, not p&m'ing, glad you're doing it.
Link Posted: 9/14/2014 6:55:36 AM EDT
[#16]
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Quoted:


Full fence would be correct
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I am definitely interested. Anodized or not, safety detent or not. My A1 has an M16 A1 upper, CMPC barrel. But I have no clue which exact lower would be correct, but put me in for 1 anyway :)


Full fence would be correct

Thank You.
Link Posted: 9/14/2014 7:03:55 AM EDT
[#17]
The detent hole is a deal killer. I'd be in for some other than this.
Link Posted: 9/14/2014 7:04:53 AM EDT
[#18]
I sent my email to NoDak to get on the list!
Link Posted: 9/14/2014 7:44:17 AM EDT
[#19]
sorry guys, but as much as I would love to have some early style 80% lowers, at $140 the price is just too steep for me...right now I can get 80% A2's from TM for $49 apiece and modify the exterior myself to the earlier contours

ETA: and the older TM 80% lowers came with the selector and selector detent holes already done. You only need to do the fire control pocket and the hammer pin and trigger pins holes to finish it
Link Posted: 9/14/2014 8:50:44 AM EDT
[#20]
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Quoted:
sorry guys, but as much as I would love to have some early style 80% lowers, at $140 the price is just too steep for me...right now I can get 80% A2's from TM for $49 apiece and modify the exterior myself to the earlier contours

ETA: and the older TM 80% lowers came with the selector and selector detent holes already done. You only need to do the fire control pocket and the hammer pin and trigger pins holes to finish it
View Quote

I think youre missing the point. These arent for folks just building a fun clone. These are for the peeps doing bit perfect clones with reproduction engravings, etc to match the originals exactly. Man on man. I like that idea.... These are going to go into some sweet builds.
Link Posted: 9/14/2014 9:16:21 AM EDT
[#21]
Detent hole = "easy as falling off a log".   Why in the world would that be a deal breaker?   I'd trade having to do 3 "easy as falling off a log" details for 1 critically correct hard to do exactly right detail like reprofiling around the rear pin detent "tunnel bump" or the rib on the buffer tube "screw in threaded ear/tang thingy".  You screw up and have an AH OH on anything exterior and your screwed. Well.............you're not, but the perfect job you're trying to do is.
I agree on the comment about these not being for run of the mill "fun" builds. At least for me they will be for the clone builds that I want to be as near to perfection as I can do, but that's just me.
Thanks Mike and Harlan.
Link Posted: 9/14/2014 11:16:58 AM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Detent hole = "easy as falling off a log".   Why in the world would that be a deal breaker?   I'd trade having to do 3 "easy as falling off a log" details for 1 critically correct hard to do exactly right detail like reprofiling around the rear pin detent "tunnel bump" or the rib on the buffer tube "screw in threaded ear/tang thingy".  You screw up and have an AH OH on anything exterior and your screwed. Well.............you're not, but the perfect job you're trying to do is.
I agree on the comment about these not being for run of the mill "fun" builds. At least for me they will be for the clone builds that I want to be as near to perfection as I can do, but that's just me.
Thanks Mike and Harlan.
View Quote



I have to admit I had the wrong hole.

I was THINKING the take down pin detent! (Note to self. READING IS FUNDAMENTAL!)

Yeah the SAFETY detent is 90 to the flat top of the lower so it is pretty easy to set up. (Even though it's a two step hole.)

I was wondering how in the HELL I was gonna set up for that long skinny hole on the take down pin detent!

$140 is about right for those wanting one stop shopping. I've got 3 TM 80's already so I'm good. They DO need to be emBRACED yet!

Link Posted: 9/14/2014 11:27:58 AM EDT
[#23]
Link Posted: 9/14/2014 11:44:08 AM EDT
[#24]
I assume that they have no NDS markings on them?
Link Posted: 9/15/2014 1:50:01 PM EDT
[#25]
Link Posted: 9/15/2014 8:21:14 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



I have to admit I had the wrong hole.

I was THINKING the take down pin detent! (Note to self. READING IS FUNDAMENTAL!)

Yeah the SAFETY detent is 90 to the flat top of the lower so it is pretty easy to set up. (Even though it's a two step hole.)

I was wondering how in the HELL I was gonna set up for that long skinny hole on the take down pin detent!

$140 is about right for those wanting one stop shopping. I've got 3 TM 80's already so I'm good. They DO need to be emBRACED yet!

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Quoted:
Quoted:
Detent hole = "easy as falling off a log".   Why in the world would that be a deal breaker?   I'd trade having to do 3 "easy as falling off a log" details for 1 critically correct hard to do exactly right detail like reprofiling around the rear pin detent "tunnel bump" or the rib on the buffer tube "screw in threaded ear/tang thingy".  You screw up and have an AH OH on anything exterior and your screwed. Well.............you're not, but the perfect job you're trying to do is.
I agree on the comment about these not being for run of the mill "fun" builds. At least for me they will be for the clone builds that I want to be as near to perfection as I can do, but that's just me.
Thanks Mike and Harlan.



I have to admit I had the wrong hole.

I was THINKING the take down pin detent! (Note to self. READING IS FUNDAMENTAL!)

Yeah the SAFETY detent is 90 to the flat top of the lower so it is pretty easy to set up. (Even though it's a two step hole.)

I was wondering how in the HELL I was gonna set up for that long skinny hole on the take down pin detent!

$140 is about right for those wanting one stop shopping. I've got 3 TM 80's already so I'm good. They DO need to be emBRACED yet!


# 40 "aircraft bit" (they are about 6 inches long),if using a drill press,,stand lower in jig on end and you can do the rear takedown pin then flip the jig over to do the front detent hole in the fence.If no drill press,just clamp the lower (in jig) to a solid table,and drill  with a straight eye...Easy peasy.
Link Posted: 9/15/2014 9:16:41 PM EDT
[#27]
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Quoted:

# 40 "aircraft bit" (they are about 6 inches long),if using a drill press,,stand lower in jig on end and you can do the rear takedown pin then flip the jig over to do the front detent hole in the fence.If no drill press,just clamp the lower (in jig) to a solid table,and drill  with a straight eye...Easy peasy.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Detent hole = "easy as falling off a log".   Why in the world would that be a deal breaker?   I'd trade having to do 3 "easy as falling off a log" details for 1 critically correct hard to do exactly right detail like reprofiling around the rear pin detent "tunnel bump" or the rib on the buffer tube "screw in threaded ear/tang thingy".  You screw up and have an AH OH on anything exterior and your screwed. Well.............you're not, but the perfect job you're trying to do is.
I agree on the comment about these not being for run of the mill "fun" builds. At least for me they will be for the clone builds that I want to be as near to perfection as I can do, but that's just me.
Thanks Mike and Harlan.



I have to admit I had the wrong hole.

I was THINKING the take down pin detent! (Note to self. READING IS FUNDAMENTAL!)

Yeah the SAFETY detent is 90 to the flat top of the lower so it is pretty easy to set up. (Even though it's a two step hole.)

I was wondering how in the HELL I was gonna set up for that long skinny hole on the take down pin detent!

$140 is about right for those wanting one stop shopping. I've got 3 TM 80's already so I'm good. They DO need to be emBRACED yet!


# 40 "aircraft bit" (they are about 6 inches long),if using a drill press,,stand lower in jig on end and you can do the rear takedown pin then flip the jig over to do the front detent hole in the fence.If no drill press,just clamp the lower (in jig) to a solid table,and drill  with a straight eye...Easy peasy.


and if you mess up the pivot pin hole, you can always remove the fence and make a slickside lower
Link Posted: 9/18/2014 12:47:35 PM EDT
[#28]
Link Posted: 9/18/2014 1:06:25 PM EDT
[#29]
I milled out a couple and ths e costed me 65 each. I'd pay 75 for o b e by nit 140. Just my opinion.
Link Posted: 9/18/2014 1:24:29 PM EDT
[#30]
I'm curious about the $140 figure and production run logistics too.





If these are essentially identical to current finished production, with several steps taken out of the equation, finishing most notably...





it seems like production could proceed mostly unaltered, albeit in a larger capacity, and get factioned off or just STOP at the appropriate point.





With that said, what does the $140 price actually reflect? Was the ATF determination letter process really that expensive? Or is it just your current summation of what the retro market is willing to pay?





Cheers!


-Slick

 
Link Posted: 9/18/2014 3:47:34 PM EDT
[#31]
Link Posted: 9/18/2014 4:05:19 PM EDT
[#32]
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Quoted:


The $140 price was posted as an estimate, and may be adjusted as we determine true costs involved.
The $140 covers shipping cost, which we estimate will be about $9 for one "80%" lower.
The cost of retro (A1, XM, and 601) forgings to us from the forging house is about twice the price of A2 receiver forgings.
Our machining costs are higher than large scale A2 lower machining centers who are using pallet loading CNC's. Our higher machining costs are a reflection of  the smaller batch sizes we do.
Also there will be additional tooling costs for the "80%" lowers, because the forgings will have to be fixtured in a different manner, as compared to how we do the 100% receivers.

We incurred the cost of making samples to send to ATF for the determination letter process, but ATF does not charge for its process.

'Braceman' has told us that he charges $65 for A1 re-profiling, and $85 for partial fence and slick re-profiling. I am not sure if shipping charges as in addition to this, but the customer will have to pay to get the A2 forging to him.
Tactical Machining charges $49 for an "80%" A2 lower, with shipping being an additional $10-$11.

Bottom line, we arrived at the $140 estimate based on what we see for costs involved and getting a reasonable profit for the work involved.

Harlan
NoDak Spud LLC
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I'm curious about the $140 figure and production run logistics too.

If these are essentially identical to current finished production, with several steps taken out of the equation, finishing most notably...

it seems like production could proceed mostly unaltered, albeit in a larger capacity, and get factioned off or just STOP at the appropriate point.

With that said, what does the $140 price actually reflect? Was the ATF determination letter process really that expensive? Or is it just your current summation of what the retro market is willing to pay?

Cheers!
-Slick  


The $140 price was posted as an estimate, and may be adjusted as we determine true costs involved.
The $140 covers shipping cost, which we estimate will be about $9 for one "80%" lower.
The cost of retro (A1, XM, and 601) forgings to us from the forging house is about twice the price of A2 receiver forgings.
Our machining costs are higher than large scale A2 lower machining centers who are using pallet loading CNC's. Our higher machining costs are a reflection of  the smaller batch sizes we do.
Also there will be additional tooling costs for the "80%" lowers, because the forgings will have to be fixtured in a different manner, as compared to how we do the 100% receivers.

We incurred the cost of making samples to send to ATF for the determination letter process, but ATF does not charge for its process.

'Braceman' has told us that he charges $65 for A1 re-profiling, and $85 for partial fence and slick re-profiling. I am not sure if shipping charges as in addition to this, but the customer will have to pay to get the A2 forging to him.
Tactical Machining charges $49 for an "80%" A2 lower, with shipping being an additional $10-$11.

Bottom line, we arrived at the $140 estimate based on what we see for costs involved and getting a reasonable profit for the work involved.

Harlan
NoDak Spud LLC


I'm only withholding an email expressing interest because I know that it'd be six months to a year before I would place an order for any, due to the expenses related to this.

Definitely excited to see you guys (ostensibly) bring these to market.
Link Posted: 9/18/2014 4:05:39 PM EDT
[#33]
Thank you for the response, Harlan.  And a bigger thank you for being open and honest about pricing.  I was going to ask a similar question but came to the same conclusion that you outlined.  Previously TM was selling lowers for $79, and figuring in all of your math the price for an A1 lower shipped seems more or less reasonable.
Link Posted: 9/18/2014 4:27:52 PM EDT
[#34]
I have not emailed because the few retro lowers I have had engraved have come from Braceman. All my other A1 builds came from the stock pile of pre ban lowers I came across. I would think that Braceman would be your largest reseller in the future based on his engraving ability. I would not be supprised if a couple others that do a small amount of engraving did not jump in to the mix. My thought is that buying the lower with shipping included, then paying shipping to Braceman or another engraver, then paying to ship it back also adds up. Engravers could buy in bulk and ship directly to the end users. This would drive cost out of the model.

As alway, thank you NSD guys for being so open, creative and willing to listen to our little market.
Link Posted: 9/20/2014 10:38:22 AM EDT
[#35]
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Quoted:


Makes sense, have you seen all the guys in the Build it Yourself thread who are asking for help because they drilled slightly off and now have a paperweight?
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Quoted:
No, I meant the safety detent hole.

As we have no control over where you place the Safety hole, the detent hole needs to be lined up tangent on center with that feature to function properly.

I know other companies have it, but I felt it was best for the customer to place this hole themselves.



Makes sense, have you seen all the guys in the Build it Yourself thread who are asking for help because they drilled slightly off and now have a paperweight?


I have read the Build It Yourself forum daily (as well as other forums) for the last year as I  prepared to enter the 80% world and have not seen any "mislocated" selector holes posts. Not saying there aren't any but for some reason I have not seen them. I saw a post for one 80% manufacturer (no name's) that missed the selector detent hole location on a run of parts and caused some slightly angled selector levers but they replaced all of them free of charge. I have made my own fixture and like most fixtures it locates the selector hole relative to the takedown holes via 1/4 dowel pins, impossible to miss location of the selector hole. I personally think that forcing the customer to put in the stepped detent hole on a different axis than is already setup will result in a lot more problems than the selector hole has in the past. Just my opinion and you know what they say about opinions but I have done several 80's to date.

I recently contacted another 80%manufactuerer about the fact that the 80 I received from them was missing the bolt catch spring hole and they said that was how they made them and because their determination letter was written that way there was no going back. I suppose NDS is in the same boat if they already have their determination approval.

In this new litigation society we live in, having nothing to with the safety feature of a receiver may be a very wise move.
Link Posted: 9/20/2014 11:59:29 AM EDT
[#36]
Link Posted: 9/20/2014 4:36:28 PM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I'm only withholding an email expressing interest because I know that it'd be six months to a year before I would place an order for any, due to the expenses related to this.

Definitely excited to see you guys (ostensibly) bring these to market.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I'm curious about the $140 figure and production run logistics too.

If these are essentially identical to current finished production, with several steps taken out of the equation, finishing most notably...

it seems like production could proceed mostly unaltered, albeit in a larger capacity, and get factioned off or just STOP at the appropriate point.

With that said, what does the $140 price actually reflect? Was the ATF determination letter process really that expensive? Or is it just your current summation of what the retro market is willing to pay?

Cheers!
-Slick  


The $140 price was posted as an estimate, and may be adjusted as we determine true costs involved.
The $140 covers shipping cost, which we estimate will be about $9 for one "80%" lower.
The cost of retro (A1, XM, and 601) forgings to us from the forging house is about twice the price of A2 receiver forgings.
Our machining costs are higher than large scale A2 lower machining centers who are using pallet loading CNC's. Our higher machining costs are a reflection of  the smaller batch sizes we do.
Also there will be additional tooling costs for the "80%" lowers, because the forgings will have to be fixtured in a different manner, as compared to how we do the 100% receivers.

We incurred the cost of making samples to send to ATF for the determination letter process, but ATF does not charge for its process.

'Braceman' has told us that he charges $65 for A1 re-profiling, and $85 for partial fence and slick re-profiling. I am not sure if shipping charges as in addition to this, but the customer will have to pay to get the A2 forging to him.
Tactical Machining charges $49 for an "80%" A2 lower, with shipping being an additional $10-$11.

Bottom line, we arrived at the $140 estimate based on what we see for costs involved and getting a reasonable profit for the work involved.

Harlan
NoDak Spud LLC


I'm only withholding an email expressing interest because I know that it'd be six months to a year before I would place an order for any, due to the expenses related to this.

Definitely excited to see you guys (ostensibly) bring these to market.

I am in the same boat. I'm excited about them but between the wedding and hooneymoon I'm BROKE.
Link Posted: 9/20/2014 5:58:47 PM EDT
[#38]
Now that I am divorced, I can afford a retro 80% lower, (or 2)
Link Posted: 10/7/2014 10:45:05 AM EDT
[#39]
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Quoted:
The detent hole is a deal killer. I'd be in for some other than this.
View Quote


For the first time last night I milled an 80% lower that DID NOT have the safety detent hole.  Previously I thought this would be a hurdle / deal breaker for me.  After having done it last night it took a grand total of 15 minutes and lined up fine for me.

So all that being said, I wouldn't worry about nodak not including the safety detent hole.  I'm looking forward to their release!!
Link Posted: 10/7/2014 10:39:21 PM EDT
[#40]
Maybe it's just me, but a price of $140.00 shipped seems a good deal for what they are offering. I'd rather have a clean slate to work with, mill what's needed and start marking the receiver exactly the way I want it.

With the costs of buying, shipping and paying someone to re profile an A2 would just cancel out what you'd pay for what they're asking.

Hope they get enough support on this, I'm already putting builds on hold to get my hands on a few of these.
Link Posted: 11/11/2014 2:11:41 PM EDT
[#41]
Link Posted: 11/11/2014 2:46:05 PM EDT
[#42]
I placed my order first thing this morning!
Link Posted: 11/11/2014 3:03:58 PM EDT
[#43]
Link Posted: 11/11/2014 4:51:55 PM EDT
[#44]
They look great.  I sent an email expressing interest in 2.  But cannot send payment until 21st of Nov.
Link Posted: 11/11/2014 8:16:02 PM EDT
[#45]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


We are planning to have some NDS-51's for sale at the SAR Show in December (unless all are sold before we travel to Phoenix).

Harlan
NoDak Spud LLC
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Mike and Harlan, take some to the SAR show for the cash and carry crowd?



We are planning to have some NDS-51's for sale at the SAR Show in December (unless all are sold before we travel to Phoenix).

Harlan
NoDak Spud LLC


Damn - I might have to drive down and see you guys!
Link Posted: 11/11/2014 8:21:45 PM EDT
[#46]
Link Posted: 11/14/2014 8:54:57 PM EDT
[#47]
I got my A1 80% lower in the mail today. It looks good, and I will be checking some dimensions tomorrow. My machine is tied up with another 80%er at the moment, and I have another unfinished one waiting. The NDS lower is in line after that.
My vacation plans to go to Phoenix to visit friends aren't until Feb 2015. I am always a day late it seems
Link Posted: 11/14/2014 9:47:01 PM EDT
[#48]
I know there's a market for these but I can buy 39.95 80 percent lowers and get it profiled to an a1 for 30 bucks.
Link Posted: 11/14/2014 11:06:49 PM EDT
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I know there's a market for these but I can buy 39.95 80 percent lowers and get it profiled to an a1 for 30 bucks.
View Quote

Maybe that guy that reprofiles them will raise his rates now that he knows people will pay more for a quality part.
Link Posted: 11/14/2014 11:11:05 PM EDT
[#50]
Yeah, maybe, but he's a good guy that loves helping people. I don't think it's all about the money to them.
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