http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=19&t=221162

I found this in the archive. I am just looking for a cheap way to get some lpk parts done for now. I would love to be able to just send them off to get re done, but right now that's not in my budget. You basically just see the trigger guard, bolt catch, and mag button. They have this paint in stock at my local auto parts store it's 7.00. I was just wondering if anyone had pictures of their use of this method. I know this is not the tier 1 method, but I am living in my means. Trying to, this retro experience is expensive.

Thank you. You guys have been great and very educational.

I used Rustoleum BBQ flat black paint on a couple of lowers. It ended up almost identical to Colt's grey finish.

The flat black turned grey? Interesting.

I showed a lower to the guy in the LGS, and he thought it was a Colt lower at first. He thought it was damn near a perfect match color-wise.

Good info thank you.

Anybody else?

OP, The link provided seems to be about parkerizing, while you are dealing with aluminum parts (the mag catch and trigger guard) which are probably anodized or hardcoated with something from the factory, Short of blasting and anodizing them, I think the gray primer option is pretty good for cheap. I have heard of some finishes lightening up and looking more flat with a little judicious abrasion.

Oops, I also meant to mention Norrels moly resin, which I have used on some trigger guards. It is kinda pricey, by the quart like I bought it. And that should be enough for a dozen lowers and uppers.

The bolt catch parts are steel and can lighten up using naval jelly or a few minutes.

It was about Parkerizing, but the third post down referenced this engine ceramic paint. I know about the naval jelly trick for the steel parts, but was curious for aluminum parts. I read the other post where boywonder777 pointed out sometimes just steel wool on the trigger guard can take care of that.