No afflation other than me getting one
This closes the 25th.

http://www.weaponsguild.com/forum/index.php?topic=49981.msg687389#msg687389

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From the post:
"Were going to be running a few group buy specials for WG members only. Currently, we will be offering 80% lowers that have a grey finish identical to the original colt XM grey, as well as doing retro engraving, currently were set up to do the colt m16a1 (we could do XM16E1, 603, etc. markings), GM Hydramatic, and H&R M16A1s. Prices will be added shortly. Here is a representative picture of what the lower will look like. More details to come!"

Engraved and anodized--GM, H&R or GM?  That's interesting!
Pics look pretty good, too.

Had to search for the price...$150 for cast, $160 forged?  Considering the cost of anodizing and engraving...that's not bad.

UNFORTUNATELY...the group buy closed a few days ago.

ETA:  I'm reaching out to the organizer to see if any can be added or if another run is planned.  Will update here as I learn more.

Never heard of weapons guild. Maybe the seller should come here and post... prolly get alot more interest and sales going!

I've been emailing the seller and regret to say these will be A2 profile lowers, not A1.

There's some confusion because he posted photos of an earlier lower he made and it looks great!  A1 profile, right color, Colt rollmark...I had to check for a sear pin hole to make sure it wasn't real.
When we spoke, though, he mentioned the A2 profile so I had to ask for clarification.  
He said he was sure he posted that in the thread but the post isn't there so now he's going to have to go back and check with everyone who signed up for these.

Sounds like a really good guy--he wanted to do something for me like a free custom serial number for pointing out the confusion, but I told him the A2 profile is a dealbreaker to me.

He did say, "I plan on doing the a1 style, I just don't have the proper tooling at this time unfortunately."
I've asked him to keep me posted, because if he sells A1 80%-ers that look as good as the one he showed in the pics, I'm in!

He did say he could accept orders for this group buy till the 25th.  If you're interested in an 80% A2 lower that is engraved and anodized gray (they'll probably look good if you don't mind the reinforcements), sign up at that forum...or contact me and I'll give you his email address.

ETA:  Oh, I also invited him to stop by here and visit!

Sorry guys I expressed interest in the lowers he posted in his first post.  He sent me a message that the buy was still open to the 5t and I thought I would share it I didn't realize he was now offering A2 and he didn't state that in his Message to me.

If he offers an 80% A1 lower he'll make a mint here.



Who'll be first? This guy or NDS?

I'd be in for several if A1 profile.

Why would I pay for an A1 80% two or three times what an A2 80% lower costs. Reprofile an A2 yourself and save some money.

Because the A1 machined/or as forged lower PROBABLY looks much better than what our reprofiled lowers look like???  I think my 607 reprofiled lower looks pretty darned good, but I can nitpick it on the detail. (I machined/rerpofiled mine myself)  PLUS.......they're already anodized the correct color.  A Type III hardcoat anodizing job is going to add about 100 bucks to your A2 reprofile job........AND........an individual might very well screw up his lower in the process.  Just my opinion, and even with that opinion I'll still continue to reprofile my A2 80%ers, but that's not for everyone.

Buy an 80% A2 lower and re-profile it yourself.
Then send it off for retro engraving.
Then send it off for anodizing.
It adds up, quickly.

If this guy does A1 lowers like the one he posted photos of, it may be well worth the cost--depending on how much he increases the cost for the extra machining.

Mine looks pretty darn close and good enough for me. Saved a lot of mobey, but to each his own.

Also, you do have to have the balls to attempt a reprofile yourself. Once you do o b e, the rest get easier.  Now jump in there and do it.

Did you anodize yours and engrave it yourself?
(I'm guessing I've seen yours in other threads here but they all blur together!)

Doing everything for yourself is a great experience, but to really save money, you need to be able to do the finish work, too.
Home anodizing can be done at a reasonable cost, but engraving equipment is probably too expensive for most of us.

Sprayed mine down with auto etching primer, grey. Clean the lwer first with brake cleaner.  Costed about 8 bucks, for cleaner and primer,  have fixed three and more in can.

To each his own, but primer (or any spray on finish) lacks the durability of anodizing. Hard coat anodizing does  more than just color the part and provide an anti-corrosion finish.

You are correct in saying "to each his own".  It really boils down to ones' reasoning for doing an 80%er.  Some want the utmost in "authenticity", some do it just to say "I built it", some want no traceability, etc, etc.
I wanted to create the most authentic build that I could, and here's a run down of cost for me.......Lower was 82 bucks, although they can be had for 49 now. I reprofiled it myself (using a Bridgeport mill/handwork), I was able to engrave it myself (cnc milling machine), and had it anodized. (not sure of the actual cost to anodize this lower because I had several parts done in a batch) The lower I am working on now will be anodized, and it will cost 100 dollars.  So, total was about 182 bucks and my time. I think it is a pretty good clone, and I can pick it to pieces as far as the things that are NOT correct. I had it anodized Type III, which is hardcoat, and it was done in the correct color for the model. (607)  Could someone paint their lower and save money?   Sure, but there are some substantial benefits of hardcoat anodizing. (wear resistence, resistence to dents and dings. A non-anodized lower is going to be very prone to dents/dings)

Wow, results are great. There is some $$ overhead involved owning a mill and so on, but it can be done without one. Glad to see members rolling their own to such high specs.

I've never seen aluminum corrode.  What I do is durable, no problems here.

Guys need not be so anal about a build being perfectly 100% identical. Remember, building is supposed to be fun. Those of u s who do most of the work on our own enjoy what we do.

Thats really nice

You must not live in the rust belt if you've never seen aluminum corrode! It turns to a nice chunky powder un-coated around here.

Aluminum is soft, and all those steel pins in the lower will wear it as they move. Type III anodizing coats the aluminum receiver with a very hard surface, that will wear the steel parts before the aluminum they are fitted to. IIRC it actually increases the surface hardness of the aluminum its self.

Spray paint won't do that.

I'm not knocking rattle cans, but you just can't compare that sort of finish to Mil-Spec anodizing.

You are correct in saying that anodizing hardens the surface of the aluminum.. While the surface IS hardened, it isn't measured in the normal way that hardened steel is. Anodizing produces a hardened surface that is very thin......usually less than .001 for type II and thicker than .001, usually .002 or more for type III. The hardened surface of anodizing is comparable to approx. Rc65 + or - 5 points.  The anodizing that someone might do at home would  be type II. Type III requires MUCH MORE in the way of equipment, as it is done at about 28 degrees F, and takes some specialized equipment to hold the solution at that temp. Type II is referred to as "room temp anodizing" and is done at 68-70 degrees.

These are shown in black but will be Colt Gray as this an old immage

I've got a few A2 profiled GM that are anodized in Colt Gray that i'd let go for $140 shipped
These are in stock sitting on my self ready to ship, no need to get screwed on some WG group buy . Like Prexis barrel deal, 2 to3 years & waiting

Woodey;  are your receivers complete or 80% ?
Thanks,  Gregg