User Panel
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Posted: 3/6/2005 1:04:02 AM EDT
[#1]
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WA, USA
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Posted: 3/6/2005 5:09:16 AM EDT
[#2]
what buffer tube is that? (swivel sling attachment?)
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GA, USA
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Posted: 3/6/2005 9:13:37 AM EDT
[#3]
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Posted: 3/6/2005 12:37:17 PM EDT
[#4]
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ME, USA
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Posted: 3/6/2005 7:37:56 PM EDT
[#5]
Finally finished. Model 1 chrome lined upper and Mega pistol lower,RRA B/C. Only got to fire 120 rounds out of it at my nephews before he shipped out (he did the wrap up job) , no failures. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y14/G33InMyPocket/Red.jpg
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NC, USA
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Posted: 3/16/2005 3:37:06 AM EDT
[#6]
g33inmypocket: I like the parachute cord work you did.
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Posted: 3/16/2005 10:00:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: labrat454]
[#7]
Finished my pistol using the info from BadgerArms Post on pg14. Thx BadgerArms.
 Double Star lower Model 1 Sales 7.5 A2 upper Bushmaster Buffer and Bolt/Bolt Carrier I used a 4-40 screw to hold in the rear take down pin spring. I just have to come up with a way to put a sling on it now. |
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Posted: 3/16/2005 1:00:15 PM EDT
[#8]
Where are you guys getting the parts for the bushmaster setup?
I got the parts numbers form page 14. but when i search online, they're not showing up. Do you have to call to order these? |
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Posted: 3/16/2005 2:14:41 PM EDT
[#9]
I called Bushmaster and ordered them. My stuff was shipped from out west, I forget were, not from Maine. |
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Posted: 3/16/2005 10:52:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Get a 10/32 tap and a #27 drill. Drill a hole in the rear of the receiver where that little divit is. You might need a small diameter washer to put the swivel at the same level as the rear of the receiver. You can then use a single point sling. Most of the machine-screw swivels are 10/32 IIRC. Glad to see that you got it together. Hope it runs well.
Bushmaster doesn't have the parts on their web site. Just do a leap of faith that they are real (at least three of us have done it this way now) and call. They should have them in stock. Good luck and post a pic/review when you're done. |
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UT, USA
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Posted: 3/16/2005 11:17:55 PM EDT
[#11]
I slo just ordered these parts from Bushmaster today and they said they were in stock and will be shipped from Arizona tomorrow. Wonder who makes them for Bushmaster?
JR |
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Posted: 3/17/2005 12:48:02 AM EDT
[#12]
I believe the parts come from the former Professional Ordnance Inc. plant in Lake Havasu, AZ. |
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UT, USA
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Posted: 3/17/2005 1:00:11 AM EDT
[#13]
Interesting!
JR |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 3/17/2005 5:05:48 PM EDT
[#14]
Back to the A.O.W talk again..... for some reason this still isn't clear to me, so I wrote the ATF a letter, and have yet to get a response. I will probably call them..
(e) Any other weapon. - The term "any other weapon" means any weapon or device capable of being concealed on the person from which a shot can be discharged through the energy of an explosive, a pistol or revolver having a barrel with a smooth bore designed or redesigned to fire a fixed shotgun shell, weapons with combination shotgun and rifle barrels 12 inches or more, less than 18 inches in length, from which only a single discharge can be made from either barrel without manual reloading, and shall include any such weapon which may be readily restored to fire. Such term shall not include a pistol or a revolver having a rifled bore, or rifled bores, or weapons designed, made, or intended to be fired from the shoulder and not capable of firing fixed ammunition. it is the last part of that paragraph that is confusing the crap out of me |
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Posted: 3/17/2005 6:10:22 PM EDT
[#15]
Fair enough. Jsut got off the horn, and they're in stock and on the way. It'll be nice to actually have a working setup for once 
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Posted: 3/18/2005 4:13:19 AM EDT
[#16]
found a new Bushmaster mfg. AR pistol in ban configuration for $495. Is that price good enough to be worth buying and converting?
Or better just to build your own? I already have a lower signed out as pistol by the FFL. |
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Posted: 3/18/2005 11:23:33 AM EDT
[#17]
What configuration and condition is it in? Is it the plastic one? If so, it's not a bad deal, but I don't know that it's worth converting in any way.
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Posted: 3/18/2005 11:29:22 AM EDT
[#18]
tag
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Posted: 3/18/2005 11:58:01 PM EDT
[#19]
the carbon fiber ones...
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USA
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Posted: 3/20/2005 3:25:07 PM EDT
[#20]
I saw a pic of a AR-15 pistol holster on teh airsoft thread. Link no longer works. Anyone know who sells it?
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Posted: 3/23/2005 6:53:42 PM EDT
[#21]
T A G 
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Posted: 3/24/2005 11:25:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: NAM]
[#22]
As requested! Here's what i did. I pitched that plastic end piece that Bushy uses. I took a standard receiver end plate. Dremeled off the indexing piece that does in the buffer tube groove. Then, i drilled a hoel through the center of the lower portion of the receiver end plate. Next, i took the Bushy sling mount, and mounted it in that hole (with convex side pointing out). I had to dremel a bit down on the screw to get it to fit in the stock index hole on the lower. Red loctite so it doesn't unscrew, but is still fully 360 rotational. Edit: DO NOT USE RECEIVER END PLATE SLING MOD WITH A PLASTIC BUFFER TUBE End product:  |
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Posted: 3/25/2005 11:27:11 AM EDT
[#23]
Whoops, didn't realize you'd posted on this thread too, I've got the other one tagged so I saw it first.
Nam, did you use a bushy bolt carrier or trim your own? My guess is that you can trim it so there is still a web on top and then your forward assist and ejection port cover won't be just eye candy any more. My bolt carrier is sitting there, uncut, and laughing at me right now. |
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Posted: 3/25/2005 6:28:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: NAM]
[#24]
Range report:
DO NOT USE MY SLING METHOD WITH THE PLASTIC BUFFER TUBE. IT WILL DESTROY IT. As i was shooting, with the sling tightly around me, i had problems after 2 mags. The added stress caused the plastic bushy buffer tube to strip it's threads. My plastic buffer tube is now useless. So.... pissed.... on my way home, i'm thinking how can i fix this mess? MY first thought was to ditch the sling idea and jsut get a new buffer tube. If it were metal it woudl be fine. But the plastic jsut can't handle it. Then i got this insane idea: Use the Model 1 Sales pistol buffer tube, with the Bushy bolt carrier and buffer. So i did it, utilizing my previously mentioned sling modified receiver end plate. WORKED LIKE A CHARM! No problems at all. Bump fired like a little filthy whore. No bending, no malfunctions, 100% good to go! |
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USA
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Posted: 3/25/2005 8:14:36 PM EDT
[#25]
I have a couple of questions (I have read thru this thread):
1. With either the Model 1, Ace buffer setup or the improved Bushmaster setup - is the upper and lower disassembly the same as rifle disassembly? pivoting on front pushpin? 2. Why do you (Badger) have to drill out the hole and tap? Is this due to taking off the buffer tube for disassembling upper/lower referencing above question? Badger - if possible could I see pics of your drilled and tapped area? Thanks, Nelson |
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Posted: 3/25/2005 9:26:44 PM EDT
[#26]
You have to tap the hole where the detent spring goes or you can use some sort of plate to keep the spring in. The hole that you have to DRILL is only if you intend to use a single point sling. In this case, you want to drill it into your receiver right in the middle of the recess there. No, I can't get a good picture of it. Already tried and failed. |
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USA
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Posted: 3/25/2005 10:55:34 PM EDT
[#27]
Basic assembly, yes, but the buffer tube is a total PITA if you're using the Model-1 pistol buffer. Ordinary buffers are retained in the stock so the upper can be "opened" by pushing the rear pin aside. But I discovered that with the pistol buffer, you need to assemble the upper onto the lower THEN compress the buffer spring from the rear while trying to screw the end cap on. Did I already mention that this is a total PITA? Maybe someone here found a better way, but for me, I had to set it down a few times & walk away before coming back to it. |
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Posted: 3/25/2005 11:25:45 PM EDT
[#28]
I never had a major problem. my spring's not all that hard to compress. but you do have to take the pistol tube off to separate it. or at least open the end. with the M1S setup, i was able to remove both pins and sldie it off. but that's a bit harder to do with the bushy setup. |
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UT, USA
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Posted: 3/26/2005 12:15:19 AM EDT
[#29]
Nam, does the m1s metal buffer tube have a shaft down the center to hold the spring in like the Bushy tube?
Is it about the same length as the Bushy? I ordered 2 of the plastic tubes in case I have a problem with one. A metal buffer would be better than plastic. Thanks, JR |
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Posted: 3/26/2005 12:38:36 AM EDT
[#30]
yes and No. It has a metal shaft down the center, but it's a separate piece. so far i think i've got a winning setup. never had luck with the M1S setup alone. and i think the bushy setup will work. what screwed mine up was my sling setup. but i definitly prefer metal to plastic. |
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Posted: 3/26/2005 9:40:10 PM EDT
[#31]
here's another question for ya'll: are you noticing any extra wear on your pistol setups? Today while cleaning mine, i found out that i broke another FCG pin. first the hammer pin snapped a week ago. and today i noticed the trigger pin was broke. Shitty parts?
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Posted: 3/27/2005 1:18:54 AM EDT
[#32]
The stubby barrel lets gas in at a significantly higher pressure, therefore increasing wear on all internals.
NAM: Was your sling swivel attached to the stock plate or directly to the receiver? |
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Posted: 3/27/2005 1:22:00 AM EDT
[#33]
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Posted: 3/27/2005 1:49:35 AM EDT
[#34]
heck yeah. just got a ten incher, workin on building my 7 incher now.
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Posted: 3/27/2005 1:53:20 AM EDT
[#35]
I took a standard receiver end plate and drilled a hole in the center. |
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Posted: 3/27/2005 2:50:08 AM EDT
[#36]
tag
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Posted: 3/27/2005 7:04:38 PM EDT
[#37]
Ok, I had some questions regarding the AR muzzle blast. From all reports, this is not a quiet gun, and I would like to use it in a home defense scenario (50M or less), given the small profile. The only problem to using it in a home defense situation with the stock muzzle break is permanent hearing loss. I'd like to avoid this problem if at all possible. I am looking for the least noisy muzzle break OR a combo flash hider/muzzle break. Again, my primary concern is hearing loss, followed by reducing muzzle flip, and lastly eliminating the flamethrower effect would be nice as well, but is not a primary concern. I could be wrong, but I think getting hit with a 5.56 at close range would put most folks in a world of hurt, even if the muzzle velocity is a comparatively tame 22-2500 FPS. I am also looking at the KKF Limiter from Kurts Kustom Firearms, which is supposed to have less noise/flash, but I haven't seen any reports on it. Bushmaster suggested the Izzy break as an overall good flash hider with breaking properties. I am also looking at the KKF Limiter from Kurts Kustom Firearms, which is supposed to have less noise/flash, but I haven't seen any reports on it. In the same boat is the Levang Line compensator. Any pics or reports on it? There is also the ubiquitous A2 flash hider. Lastly, for home defense, the heavier 60-70 Gr. rounds are suggested for fragmenting at lower velocities. I have heard good stuff about the XM193's as well though. Thoughts on ammo selection? |
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Posted: 3/27/2005 7:09:44 PM EDT
[#38]
Ok, I had some questions regarding the AR muzzle blast. From all reports, this is not a quiet gun, and I would like to use it in a home defense scenario (50M or less), given the small profile. The only problem to using it in a home defense situation with the stock muzzle break is permanent hearing loss. I'd like to avoid this problem if at all possible.
I am looking for the least noisy muzzle break OR a combo flash hider/muzzle break. Again, my primary concern is hearing loss, followed by reducing muzzle flip, and lastly eliminating the flamethrower effect would be nice as well, but is not a primary concern. I could be wrong, but I think getting hit with a 5.56 at close range would put most folks in a world of hurt, even if the muzzle velocity is a comparatively tame 22-2500 FPS. The muzzle devices I am looking at are the Vortex, which I believe elimates the flash and reduces the noise some. Not sure on any breaking properties. Bushmaster suggested the Izzy break as an overall good flash hider with breaking I am also looking at the KKF Limiter from Kurts Kustom Firearms, which is supposed to have less noise/flash, but I haven't seen any reports on it. Bushmaster suggested the Izzy break as an overall good flash hider with breaking properties. I am also looking at the KKF Limiter from Kurts Kustom Firearms, which is supposed to have less noise/flash, but I haven't seen any reports on it. In the same boat is the Levang Line compensator. Any pics or reports on it? There is also the ubiquitous A2 flash hider. Lastly, for home defense, the heavier 60-70 Gr. rounds are suggested for fragmenting at lower velocities. I have heard good stuff about the XM193's as well though. Thoughts on ammo selection? |
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NM, USA
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Posted: 3/28/2005 10:36:08 PM EDT
[#39]
Badger, Your response is right on the money but as this is a pistol thread that may be looked at in part or whole, by folks interested in building one, I think that a little clarification might be in order. Yes, the stubby barrels with a gas system shorter than carbine length, let a considerable amount of higher pressure back to the bolt/carrier, and other parts. A pistol with a carbine length gas tube hit the carrier with the same amount of initial pressure on the bolt, but the time of duration is a bit less than the 14"-16" barrel with a carbine tube. I have not figured out if this means less stress overall than an M4, but I have figured out one thing. I think that a gas block or tube that is regulated might be the ticket for the pistol. I have been playing with buffer weights with my 10.5 (carbine gas tube and carbine buffer tube), and trying to read as much as I can find on the recoil system, and have found that the standard carbine buffer weight is great for .223 class loads, but is not enough to handle 5.56 mil spec ammo. The 9mm buffer works great with the mil spec ammo, but is a short stroker with 223 ammo. I found a lot of good information on another thread pertaining to M4 wear, and agree with some of the folks that the "right" course of action might be to attack the pressure at the point of least wear, at the gas block. This approach will certainly help with stresses on the bolt. I suspect that none of this is new for you, but I thought that I might add a little clarification for those who might be interested. Craig |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 3/29/2005 12:35:30 AM EDT
[#40]
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WA, USA
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Posted: 3/29/2005 12:37:36 AM EDT
[#41]
+1 |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 3/29/2005 10:57:00 PM EDT
[#42]
I PRESENT....THE MOST EXPENSIVE AR PISTOL IN AMERICA! (AT LEAST THE UPPER)
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Posted: 3/30/2005 12:31:15 AM EDT
[#43]
Tagged for my own pistol build,lots of good info here guys,thanx!!
I got my Mega lower through my local FFL with a handgun purchase permit and brought it down to the sherrifs office to register as a handgun.Shoulda seen the folks faces there as I handed it to them for inspection.I brought along a copy of the ATF's reply letter from another builder's thread here for reference.............they copied it and were a little hesitant on the registration as a pistol,but after a little lesson on the new laws dealing with virgin reciever builds,they seemed to understand. |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 3/30/2005 12:36:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: VeritatisUnus]
[#44]
pistols should have their own forum.
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Posted: 3/30/2005 10:32:25 AM EDT
[#45]
And how much did that cost? |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 3/30/2005 12:50:01 PM EDT
[#46]
Well,
Looking at retail: ARMS 46C SIR $400 ARMS #40 $100 Armalite Front Sight $50 Model1s Pistol Upper $350 DPMS Chrome Bolt $150 Mega Lower $100 LPK $60 Buffer Tube Assembly $40 Vortex FH $50 About $1300 |
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ME, USA
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Posted: 3/30/2005 1:57:49 PM EDT
[#47]
Does it shoot to POI with that sight setup? 
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OR, USA
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Posted: 3/30/2005 6:22:29 PM EDT
[#48]
It is a 10ft radius killa! LOL! yea, going to have to do some customizing to make a front sight that will work. |
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Posted: 3/30/2005 6:46:34 PM EDT
[#49]
Mount the ARMS 40 on the SIR. |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 3/30/2005 7:45:06 PM EDT
[#50]
yea....but then you got that ugly open space in the back......
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