User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 4:33:52 PM EDT
Well, I am new to reloading. In fact, I've never reloaded a round yet. I am not a competition shooter, I don't own a machinegun and I probably only get to the range once a month; if that. Regardless, I figured that I'd give reloading a try; it's fun and I can shoot more and save money, right?
Well, I decided that the three calibers I use most are .223, .308 and 9mm, so I planned on getting components to reload for those calibers. I plan on adding .45ACP (and possibly .38/.357) soon to complete things. I looked over the various options for reloading presses and decided that since Dillon was local to me, I'd go with a Dillon RL 550B. I knew that it would be more expensive, but would save time reloading and be easier. Time is a major factor for me, so I calculated that it would be worth it. I didn't buy everything up front since we were having a new house built and I wouldn't be using this until we moved. I didn't want to lose things or damage things in the move, so I bought the press itself first as prices were going up on it. That was over a year ago. We're now in the new house and I had a small workbench installed in the garage. I've purchased all the equipment that I feel I need or want for reloading at this time. Everything was purchased brand new via Dillon or MidwayUSA. So, here are my expenditures: The press and related: 
My "accessories":
Additional accessories:
Items for each caliber to load:
and my components:
My expenditures in tax and shipping totaled $130.60 So, the grand total I've spent? $1689.01 I'm going to have to do a LOT of shooting to make up for that. Edited to add pics:   
|
|||||
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 4:43:56 PM EDT
[#1]
So get started...
 You really need to get more powder though... 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 4:57:57 PM EDT
[#2]
Wow,
I mean Damn... That's a lot of money you dropped. Get Started dude. Start making that investment pay for itself. I'd be itching to get started with all that. And then living at the range. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 5:13:43 PM EDT
[#3]
You still need something for trimming, primer pocket swaging/reaming, and I suggest the case gages for .223 and .308 as well.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 5:24:11 PM EDT
[#4]
You have to consider every single one of those pennies as capital investments. Only after you write those costs off as infrastructure do you save money.
After you start loading, the cost difference between new & reloaded can be considered amortization of your capital investment. It'll still take you a couple of thousand rounds to recoup the costs if you do it that way. Or, you can consider it a sunk cost and just start reloading. Also, you need a mindset shift. You will NOT save money reloading. Instead, you will simply shoot many, many more rounds for the same dollars spent. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 5:25:07 PM EDT
[#5]
Welcome to the Blue kool-aid club.
It does cost some money to get started, but remember you started with some good equipment. Try to buy primers and powder local to save the hazmat charge. Get your bench set up and start your first loads. You will need some sort of trimmer and deburring (case neck) tool. Got to be a typo on the $5 RCBS powder measure. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 5:28:41 PM EDT
[#6]
Bingo! Load to save, save to load. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 5:35:59 PM EDT
[#7]
You got off cheap.
I own 2 SMG's so I either reload - or can't afford to shoot. I bought a (antique ) plumbers furnace to melt down and purify wheel weights to make clean alloy ingots for my Master Caster. I cast for 380 acp, 9x19, 44mag, 45 acp and 45-70gov. I use 2 Dillon presses, a XL650 in full dress and a RL450 for many rifle cal. a RCBS rock Chucker for the Dillon RT1200 trimmer for .223 and .308 An RCBS and a Genuine Star Lube sizer. I tend to have at least 500lbs of clean lead ingots on hand ( Currently about 1900lbs) The SMG's run fine on cast lead, although I won't shoot it thru the sealed suppressors. I do shoot cast lead thru all the cans which allow dissassembly for cleaning. Note: - Long before I ever had any NFA toys I was reloading, I started while still in High School because being under age I could not BUY "Handgun" ammo over the counter. Silly law was a Joke cause the only Handgun I had was a .22LR and they would sell me all the 22 I wanted. But even when they sold me a Win 94 in 357mag - they would'nt sell ammo for the rifle I bought. They would sell me all the brass, primers, powder and slugs I could afford.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 5:55:29 PM EDT
[#8]
jtb33,
You bought the best and it will last many rounds. I figured for my Dillion I would have to load something like 5,000 .45 or 8,000 .223 rounds to recoup the cost. That will tell you when I started.  In addition, I like the fact that I can create any custom load I want. Good luck, be careful and most of all, HAVE FUN!!! skink |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 6:16:16 PM EDT
[#9]
Take care, don't smoke while reloading and keep us posted on your journey. Chris |
||||||
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 6:20:59 PM EDT
[#10]
I purposely bought the 1lb powder size to make sure that it works well in the RL 550 - though I've heard that Accurate powder does well in it.
Already have the case gauges; they're listed above. I will eventually get a Dillon Super swage 60, but it's $90 and I don't have any military brass for reloading yet. I'm also holding off on a trimmer for now - haven't done my research on those just yet and don't need one right now.
I bought all my powder and primers from Sportsman's Warehouse locally. They had the best price on those. No typo on the RCBS powder measure - I got that and the flip tray from someone local who was selling off a bunch of new-in-box reloading stuff. Those are the only two items I didn't get at a store. Well, yes, I am eager to get started, but the 100 degree heat, which increases to 110 in my garage has me holding off for now. I did get the press set up and mounted, got all my (once-fired) brass tumbled, polished and sorted so that once it cools off a bit (or I get motivated to bear the heat) I'll start reloading. I'm sure that I'll have some questions once I do get started.
|
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 6:22:11 PM EDT
[#11]
 Wow!I only spent about $450 or so to get started. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 6:27:56 PM EDT
[#12]
Well there you go.....BLUE Kool Aid cost more then the.........Red stuff.
Both are refreshing and will hit the spot. But, IF, you like the BLUE taste, better.............there you are.  Aloha, Mark |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 7:30:17 PM EDT
[#13]
Next time you place an order for reloading supplies, consider getting an additional loading manual.
Different loads. Different bullets. Different testing. Different results. Compare and contrast. Hornady and Nosler are both excellent. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 8:15:32 PM EDT
[#14]
Let me know how the Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ tumbler $39.99 works. Was thinking about buying one, but seen bad reviews on Midway.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 8:28:27 PM EDT
[#15]
How does that saying go..."Go Big or Go Home"
Seems like you bought some good equipment. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 8:45:46 PM EDT
[#16]
My Rock Chucker is green.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 8:50:34 PM EDT
[#17]
I have one, it works fine. The included polish makes the cases nice & shiny. The only things I don't like so far is that it is plenty loud & the basket that you crank around over the bucket to seperate the cases from the media does spray some media around, not enough to matter, but enough to be annoying. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 9:20:46 PM EDT
[#18]
 What else can you do when you do not reload? Less than 25 cents per round for my nephew... 50 gr Sierra BlitzKing, pushed by 27.8 gr of H335 and CCI 400 primers for his bolt gun...with my mixed brass on their 4th reload. You never know if you will get your brass back...:-) This load works well in my Rem 700 and in my nephew's Savage...YMMV... |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 9:25:21 PM EDT
[#19]
I read the reviews and it turned me off as well. I ordered a Hornady tumber from Midway, but it was backordered for over a month. I didn't want to wait, so I picked up the F-A tumber at Sportsman's Warehouse. I figured that if it went bad, I could just take it back. I've only done a few tumble sessions for a couple hours, but no complaints so far. Not too loud and the in-line toggle switch is nice. I bought the RCBS media seperator because I like that it is totally enclosed, so the media doesn't get all over. That was a good buy. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 9:29:44 PM EDT
[#20]
Yup.....and my "first" was a used RCBS Jr. (just trying to save $). Some folks got the big $$$$. Then "others" start with USED equipment. Aloha, Mark |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 9:39:08 PM EDT
[#21]
Take care of the tools. Compare ammo with PREMIUM. Have fun reloading. The real saving is reusing the brass.
My reason for reloading back in 1982 was a box of 50 .22 Hornet factory loads was $25. A box of 100 bullets was $6.25, the primers were $1.00 and powder for 100 rounds was $1.75. The Lee single stage kit with a scale was $100. 5 boxes of factory ammo. I still have the dies, press and scale. And use them. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 9:39:44 PM EDT
[#22]
32 years ago...I started out with a green Rockchucker...it served me well for a long time...then I went blue after I got into my P16....then there was no turning back...:-) |
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 7/12/2008 9:45:42 PM EDT
[#23]
I have to agree..with the loads that I made for my nephew...they have to be at least a buck a round on the open market... Premium, fast, accurate and a great bullet...and maybe I might get my brass back (4th reload may be end of life)...no worries... |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/13/2008 6:38:05 AM EDT
[#24]
I solved the problem you have of spending all that money up front. I simply decided that the first shot i fired with my first reload cost around $2000.
Then I got into casting my own. Again the same thought process. Now I'm really saving money. All costs expensed on the first shots. At least that's how I explained to wifey. Oh yeah, you do need a LOT more powder and a LOT more primers. Check out Powder Valley and buy in bulk. QED John |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/13/2008 8:24:57 AM EDT
[#25]
jtb,
The initial outlay is indeed hard to swallow. Looking at your list you've spent pretty wisely and as others have already said, your equipment is very good and will likely out-last you if you take care of it. Be thankful for forums like this where folks can help guide you and save you money. That 1700 is nothing compared to what I've wasted on gadgets and stuff I thought I had to have. I've been loading close to 25 years and the best advice I have for you is: buy the best equipment the first time... it costs a lot less to only buy once. i.e. - Ask me how many case trimmers I have or have owned 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/13/2008 10:59:09 AM EDT
[#26]
I would also suggest watching the various retailers for sales on bullets, powder, and priimers.
For me, I scrounge as much spent cases at the range as possible. Even though I bought unfired cases, I have yet to use them. I shoot the cases until they split in the mouth or body, but generally if you keep the loads reasonable(ie no "balls to the walls" velocities) pistol cases last a long time. For pistols especially, I only flare the case mouth just enough so that the bullet will sit straight on the mouth, and also I use coated lead bullets(which performs like jacket bullets but is way cheaper than the true jacketed bullets) with a beveled base so that you need little or no flaring of the case mouth. And of course I crimp only enough to take the flare out of the case mouth. My philosophy about crimping is that crimp as little possible to do the job and no more, because the sizing die should reduce the overall diameter of the case enough to hold the bullet in place. For rifle ammo, I use a Lyman M-Die with a stepped rod in the middle that expands the neck and flares the mouth a tad to accept the bullet, and I roll crimp to take the flare out. I toss out the rifle case after the 3rd trimming, or when the case mouth or body splits, when the primer pops out during firing (indicating a worn primer pocket), or the case needs an inside neck reaming(indicated by the fact that a bullet won't drop through a fired case), or indications of incipient case head separation. Or course this is only for generally available cases, if you have an expensive or rare case you may want to go through some heroics to get max use of a case, such as annealing, inside/outside neck turning etc. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/13/2008 11:09:04 AM EDT
[#27]
The OP definitely bought a good topline setup for someone who is going to reload a lot of ammunition.
I would strongly hope that no one who is considering beginning reloading thinks that that is a beginner's setup. It is definitely not what I'd recommend to someone just starting out. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/13/2008 11:15:37 AM EDT
[#28]
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/13/2008 11:40:16 AM EDT
[#29]
Reloading, in my experience, does not save you money.... it will allow you to shoot a lot more for the $$ spent, though! As an added bonus, you are now set up pretty much for life. In 10 years you'll be thinking how much cheaper your ammo is than heading to the store. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/13/2008 2:17:42 PM EDT
[#30]
I appreciate all the feedback and tips thus far.
Yes, I did "go big" right out of the gate, even as a newbie. I've done so many things in the past with "beginner equipment" or cheaper stuff only to have to upgrade and replace shortly thereafter - and that gets expensive. My goal with this, was something that I could use as a beginner, but something that allowed me to use the same thing (just, differently) as I gained experience. I didn't buy a whole lot of components (bullets, powder or primers) because I want to see how well they ones I bought perform in my rifles before I get a LOT of each. For example, a lot of people here seem to like CCI primers, but you will see that I bought Magtech. A lot of people here also talk about Varget powder, but I decided to give Accurate powder a try first. Same with bullets. So yes, I'll go bulk on those components after a few trials with what I have already bought.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/13/2008 2:58:55 PM EDT
[#31]
I feel your pain man. I'm in the process of gearing up. I figured I'd start with a single stage press and learn the whole reloading routine with just a couple of rifle calibers I don't shoot in huge quantities. I'm starting with 6.5x55 and figure I'll do .308 next. If I enjoy it I'll probably eventually go progressive to do .223, .38 and maybe 9mm.
Anyway, I've got about $500 invested so far, and I haven't bought any bullets, primer or powder. The way I figure it, those first 20 rounds will cost about $40 each to shoot. After that, it's all gravy . . .
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/13/2008 3:25:39 PM EDT
[#32]
Actually you did great with the powders...you got ball powders...that meter much better than Varget (stick, and may jam your powder bar). Your powder loads will be easier to throw... Primers? for my 223 plinking ammo, I use the Wolf Small rifle magnum...$90 per thousand When you decide on the powder and primer combo than makes you happy...order both your primers and powder at the same time...for one Haz Mat fee. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/14/2008 8:44:17 PM EDT
[#33]
Edited to add pics - first post.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/15/2008 6:04:29 AM EDT
[#34]
Just think, after 150,000, the equipment only cost you $.01/rnd.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/15/2008 6:16:11 AM EDT
[#35]
jtb33, you got yourself a good set up there, you won't regret it.
Also, nice job on the pinewood derby car. Zach |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/15/2008 8:22:01 AM EDT
[#36]
Dang!..that is nicer than my set up... Do you have anything to hold down the back of your press? Especially important when resizing larger pieces of brass.... And clean the finger print off your camera lens...
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/15/2008 9:41:41 AM EDT
[#37]
Nice set up........
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/15/2008 10:31:39 AM EDT
[#38]
Thanks. Yes, I did clean the camera lens after I saw the picture results. If I need to use more torque, I just remove the vice on the side of the bench and add a third two-prong clamp to the rear of the hardwood. So far though, I've tried 308 and 223 and it's rock solid.
Thanks. My son and I built it; he won first place out of all the Wolf scouts and second place among all the cub scouts. He got a trophy and was very proud.
You don't like DPMS "Panther Arms"? Also, rather than spend the $$ to get the wrench holder from dillon, I just drilled some holes in the hardwood base to hold the tools. It's actually more convenient anyway. |
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 7/15/2008 10:52:32 AM EDT
[#39]
You listed the aluminum roller handle in the OP but looks like you have the plastic one? You change your order?
FWIW, I checked my records last night, bought my 550B fall of 1991 for $283, think that included shipping! Your's should last at least that long too! eta: nevermind, I checked Dillon's site, looks like the alumnium handle comes in black as well as blue. The one on my 650 is blue |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/15/2008 11:41:51 AM EDT
[#40]
The great thing about reloading is very little of what you buy is strictly "beginner only" stuff. My first press was the RCBS Partner press. I now use it to deprime cases. I still use most of the stuff from my starter set. but some of it infrequently. It is hard to save money on plinking ammo. But making quality stuff or exotic stuff is a no brainer. For example, try finding 35 Whelen ammo with a premium hunting bullet. And when I bought my 416 Rigby, factory Federal ammo was $120 per 20. I can reload MUCH cheaper than $6 a pop. I also echo that your setup is NOT the typical beginner outlay, so other newbs out there shouldn't get sticker shock and give up on reloading before even trying. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/15/2008 1:35:28 PM EDT
[#41]
dont sweat the tumbler..remove the aluminum base plate and put the rubber feet back on the base. this will allow air to circulate around the motor and it will be fine. I have run mine for many many days continually, just stopping to change brass, it still runs fine. I've had it for 2 years now. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 7/15/2008 1:44:27 PM EDT
[#42]
I bought a NOS turret combo on the EE here for about $250.
Add dies, components, and I'm off to the races.... It CAN be done for a lot cheaper. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/15/2008 2:22:41 PM EDT
[#43]
My dad had less than $25 invested in reloading and produced ammo for his 7mm Mauser that was sub MOA. Since ammo was ~$10 a box, he came out ahead...far ahead.
Lee Loader, for the win. Yes, his first load with H4831 wasn't that good. But switching to IMR3031 with the SAME SCOOP, BULLET AND PRIMER got him 5 shot groups that could be covered with a quarter at 100 yards. And it was the demise of many deer. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/15/2008 2:28:30 PM EDT
[#44]
Thanks for the tip; I'll have to do that. |
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 7/20/2008 1:19:49 PM EDT
[#45]
I always try to remeber that the value of the equipment is not gone once you buy it . So when figuring out cost per round I figure what the depreciated value of the equipment is as if I were going to sell it. At most you'll lose 15% of the value of the Dillon stuff over the next 10 years.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/20/2008 2:35:19 PM EDT
[#46]
Its common when selling Dillon presses in excellent condition, to take the then current selling price x 80% as a fair sale price. I sold my 4½ RL550B and it's unique equipment to upgrade to a 650 w/casefeeder 2 yrs ago and used that method. It sold in 2 minutes for a bit more than I originally paid for it. So, unless you trash your press, in 5 to 6 years you should be able to get 100% of your costs back if you sell it to upgrade. |
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
