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Posted: 10/25/2001 10:22:14 PM EDT
Ok, after firing about 2 clips worth of ammo, the gas cylinder plug works itself loose. I don't want to have to tighten it every 2 clips.  
Is there a way to keep it tight? I was thinking about using Loctite to keep it from working its way loose???
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 10:35:40 PM EDT
[#1]
I don't know what the torque is, but one of mine (H&R) has to have the plug VERY tight to keep it from backing out, the others don't need so much twisting.  I've never put any thing on the threads.
Link Posted: 10/25/2001 10:53:04 PM EDT
[#2]
HvyAR, This sounds stupid and I'm sure I'll get some flack from the pro's but here goes!!-- Few years back I had the same problem, an old gunsmith friend of mine took a small pin punch and bent the top of ONE thread on the plug just a couple of .ooo".  About 1/2 way up the plug threads and only in one spot.  After 600 rds it still stays tight, but I can remove it for cleaning with no trouble. -- worked for me --ALLONS11---PS -- I assume that you are tightening the plug with the issue cleaning rod handle and one rod section as it is hard to get it tight enough with just a screwdriver.
Link Posted: 10/26/2001 3:28:22 AM EDT
[#3]
THE IDEA OF PEENING A THREAD TO KEEP LOCK TIGHT IS A GOOD ONE. i HAVE USED IT MYSELF. THE FRONT SPLINES GET PEENED OVER TO SECURE GAS CYLINDER OFTEN. IF YOU CAN SWAP PLUGS OR REPLACE. EITHER WAY WORKS. BUT THEY HAVE TO BE ON TIGHT!! LOCTITE IS OK. I HAVE SEEN HIGHPOWER GUYS DO THIS ON OCCASION.
Link Posted: 10/26/2001 5:47:39 AM EDT
[#4]
These are combat rifles, don't baby the screw whenyou tighten it.  A screw driver won't do it, you need the leverage of the combinaiton tool and a section of cleaning rod.

There is no reason to remove the screw unless the rifle becomes so dirty it won't fire.  Keep lube off the end of the operating rod when you clean it.

-- Chuck
Link Posted: 10/26/2001 10:49:50 AM EDT
[#5]
Gee...I just use the WWll style M3a1 combo tool without any problems.

Peening a thread is probably the best solution. But take it easy. Better to go not far enough on the first whack than too far.
Link Posted: 10/26/2001 10:56:57 AM EDT
[#6]
You could always try a new gas cylinder plug.
Link Posted: 10/26/2001 11:29:35 AM EDT
[#7]
I use a very large screwdriver with a
rectangular shaft.  I put a crescent wrench
on the shaft for additional torque. I hold the
rifle in my woodworking vice.  The Fulton
Armory FAQ has a section "Do I need to use
a breaker bar to tight the gas screw?"
Worth a read.

Friend of mine uses a 1/4  inch drive socket
set with the naked extension bar.  The end of
the extension fits nicely into the poppet style
plug and doesn't seem to slip like a screwdriver
does.


Link Posted: 10/26/2001 1:05:39 PM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
THE IDEA OF PEENING A THREAD TO KEEP LOCK TIGHT IS A GOOD ONE. i HAVE USED IT MYSELF. THE FRONT SPLINES GET PEENED OVER TO SECURE GAS CYLINDER OFTEN. IF YOU CAN SWAP PLUGS OR REPLACE. EITHER WAY WORKS. BUT THEY HAVE TO BE ON TIGHT!! LOCTITE IS OK. I HAVE SEEN HIGHPOWER GUYS DO THIS ON OCCASION.



Its kind of like the old saying---"Whats better than locktite??  Cross threading the nut/bolt."

Some one asks you how tight to tighten something, just say "German!".  They'll say what?? and you reply "Guten tight" (ie good 'n tight for you slow folks).
Link Posted: 10/26/2001 2:35:23 PM EDT
[#9]
I never had a problem with the gas plugs comming loose on any of my garands. I think a new gas plug and combo tool would solve your ploblem.

But i did however on my match garand replace the issue gas plug with a beretta bm-59 gas plug the bm-59 uses an allen head instead of cross slot.

Not because i had problems with the plug slipping, but because i found it easier to use an allen wrench instead of the gi tool.

heres a pic on the left is a standard garand plug on the right is the BM-59 plug.





http://wsphotofews.excite.com/022/Rk/jA/ev/nI26029.jpg


Link Posted: 10/26/2001 2:40:16 PM EDT
[#10]
grrrrrr

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/022/Rk/jA/ev/nI26029.jpg

or
http://wsphotofews.excite.com/022/Rk/jA/ev/nI26029.jpg
Link Posted: 10/26/2001 6:14:06 PM EDT
[#11]
I use a little bit of plumbers tape (teflon tape), on my M1's plugs.  Works fine & you don't have to crank down on the plug as much/
Link Posted: 10/26/2001 6:19:16 PM EDT
[#12]
Anybody ever use one of those plugs that bleeds off excess presure?

I've never personally needed to tighten mine.
Link Posted: 10/26/2001 6:23:26 PM EDT
[#13]
The gas cylinder plug is working loose for a reason. Relative motion between the barrel, gas cylinder and cylinder lock will cause the gas plug to work loose. Does your cylinder lock make firm contact with the gas cylinder just as it is turned to the 6 o'clock position? Is your gas cylinder loose on the barrel?

Either condition can be cured by removing the gas cylinder and lightly peening the 3 barrel keyways (don't be too brisk as you only want to narrow the keyways a little).

The gas cylinder is then lightly tapped into position where the barrel gas hole is centered in the gas cylinder window and the cylinder lock snugs against the cylinder at the 6 o'clock position.

While you're at it, check to make sure the poppet on the gas cylinder plug is in good working order. Good luck.
Link Posted: 10/26/2001 10:18:14 PM EDT
[#14]
Thanks for the replies.  I think that I was just being a wuss when I was torquing the gas cylinder plug.
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