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Posted: 7/5/2008 4:34:09 PM EDT
My process - others may be better,  as always YMMV

I take the entire weapon apart and get a gallon of mineral spirits, dump the whole thing into a long window type flower box.  You have to caulk the holes - use silicone and allow it to dry overnight.  Get some plastic plugs at Home Depot, slap on the caulk and press then into the drainage holes.  Ream the holes with a knife to make the plug fit if need be.



Buy a few cheap paint brushes (I use 2" ones) and a brass wire brush.

Soak, scrub and blow off with an air compressor.  Repeat as needed. EDIT - metal cosmo covered parts.

Stocks - what I don't get is guys using $20 worth of brake cleaner or whatever and working like a dog.  Take the freakin stock to a furniture stripper and have him dip it for $20-$25.  Most time mineral spirits will take off the finish anyway if you don't want to spring for the extra scratch.

EDIT- follow this order.  Many questions - answered here.

Stock refurbish:
Step 1 - boiled linseed oil - two treatments per directions
Step 2 Watco Danish oil - great stuff.  I use 3 treatments.  The stuff is awesome.  Seals, stains and hardens the wood.
Step 3 Allow to dry 72 hours
Step 4 Apply spar polyurethane/any poly
Step 5 fine sand between coats (300 grit)
Step 6 0000 steel wool - touch up spots as needed
Step 7 finish up with 3 or more coats minwax furniture wax



Stand back and admire a finish better than the stock ever had and also one that will preserve the wood and  last a lifetime.

Pics of a Yugo I did that looked like shit when I bought it



Now I used the wet cloth and iron trick to take out some dings, but I was very pleased with the result. EDIT For Clarity (before any finishing - when the stock is bare)

I am in the process of doing two others and I can poly them on Tuesday morning.



ETA: Pics of two in progress stocks
Link Posted: 7/5/2008 5:17:53 PM EDT
[#1]
Refinishing the stock was one of the things I liked the most about buying my SKS.  I am looking forward to buying another just so I can try something new.

Keep us posted on your progress,  
Link Posted: 8/1/2008 1:53:15 AM EDT
[#2]

Quoted:
Refinishing the stock was one of the things I liked the most about buying my SKS.  I am looking forward to buying another just so I can try something new.

Keep us posted on your progress,  


That's pretty much it really.  You have the process, the before and after pic and can see the results.  Quick, effective refinishing without using hairdryers, brake cleaner or working like a dog over a $20 stock stripping.
Link Posted: 8/1/2008 3:13:20 PM EDT
[#3]

Stock refurbish:
Step 1 - boiled linseed oil - two treatments per directions
Step 2 Watco Danish oil - great stuff. I use 3 treatments. The stuff is awesome. Seals, stains and hardens the wood.
Step 3 Allow to dry 72 hours
Step 4 Apply spar polyurethane/any poly
Step 5 fine sand between coats (300 grit)
Step 6 0000 steel wool - touch up spots as needed
Step 7 finish up with 3 or more coats minwax furniture wax


When you say 2 treatments of the linseed oil and 3 of the watco, you do all treatments before you apply the polyurethane, right?
Link Posted: 8/1/2008 5:56:56 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:

Stock refurbish:
Step 1 - boiled linseed oil - two treatments per directions
Step 2 Watco Danish oil - great stuff. I use 3 treatments. The stuff is awesome. Seals, stains and hardens the wood.
Step 3 Allow to dry 72 hours
Step 4 Apply spar polyurethane/any poly
Step 5 fine sand between coats (300 grit)
Step 6 0000 steel wool - touch up spots as needed
Step 7 finish up with 3 or more coats minwax furniture wax


When you say 2 treatments of the linseed oil and 3 of the watco, you do all treatments before you apply the polyurethane, right?


Right - I go in the order I listed - linseed oil first (actually boiled linseed oil - plain linseed oil will never dry) - two coats as my stock was bone dry.  You want it to soak in, otherwise it gets gummy and has to be removed with 0000 steel wool.

Ok - so after the linseed oil is done (per the instructions on the can) you put a coat of Watco natural color stain (for a Yugo), wait until it "dries" - I think it was an hour - wipe per the instructions, apply another coat - repeat for the last coat of Watco - and I can't stress how much I love this stuff - it's a polymer that stains, seals and actually hardens the wood.

I use 0000 steel wool to get it really smooth, then spray a thin - and I said THIN coat of spar urethane.  Dry per instructions - then two more coats.  0000 steel wool again and you will have a smooth, preserved,  oiled stock that will outlive us all.  Set in a chair and apply as many coats of the Minway fine furniture polish as you like - I think I applied 6 coats.  It's smooth as silk, repels water and cleaning solutions don't affect the stock.

It looks better than it did when it left the factory, has a better, more durable finish which can be shined with a coat of furniture wax when you feel the need.

For ease - attach a few coat hangers to something above, then hook one around the cross bolt and the other in the stock end where the cleaning kit goes.  That way it hangs about eye level so when you spray the poly you can evenly coat both top and bottom.

If you have dings on a stripped stock - soak a rag, lay it on the ding and apply an iron on it's highest setting.  This draws the wood fibers back out to their normal profile - or as close as you will get anyway - sand with 150 grit, then 220 grit so it blends with the rest of the stock.  This step takes time, but you can remove the majority of dings.

You can even sand some out - depending where they are and most are on the side of the stock- 80 grit, 150 grit, 220 grit.  Just go easy if you use any electric sanders - 80 grit will take off a lot of wood very quickly.

Maybe I'll pull all 3 out of the safe and add pics - they all look the same as the picture above more or less.

What are you refinishing?  Russians are a lot harder due to the deep color.  Never did a Chinese yet but have a paratrooper that I may refinish.

Cosmoline: I don't care what anyone says - the ONLY way to get all of it off is to soak the entire thing in mineral spirits, period.

Why use $20 worth of brake cleaner and work like a dog when a gallon of mineral spirits is $12
Link Posted: 8/1/2008 6:49:15 PM EDT
[#5]
Its a yugo. I just bought my first one. I have it all apart right now, and everything but the stock and barrel are in the oven on a low heat. The stock & bbl wouldnt fit. I went to lowes and got the minwax, Linseed, mineral spirits and sandpaper. I couldnt find the spar polyurethane, or the watco. But since you like it so much, Ill probably go find some somewhere else. Can it be done without it?

I can use the spirits on the metal too, right?
Link Posted: 8/1/2008 7:33:25 PM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
Its a yugo. I just bought my first one. I have it all apart right now, and everything but the stock and barrel are in the oven on a low heat. The stock & bbl wouldnt fit. I went to lowes and got the minwax, Linseed, mineral spirits and sandpaper. I couldnt find the spar polyurethane, or the watco. But since you like it so much, Ill probably go find some somewhere else. Can it be done without it?

I can use the spirits on the metal too, right?


Home Depot carries the Watco and the Spar urethane I got at a small  ACE hardware store - it doesn't have to be spar - use regular poly if you like.  I just figured Spar was best for exterior work, ergo tougher and best for my Yugo.

Watco also found at any woodworking store (Woodcrafters) and no - you can use any Natural stain, I just have had VERY good results with the stuff.

Mineral spirts can be used on metal no problem - soak them overnight - it just removes grease/cosmoline.  I also have an air compressor which is great for blowing the items dry to inspect.  Handy but not required.

Take the parts out of the oven and soak them in the MS.

Now I am really interested in some before and after pictures.
Link Posted: 8/1/2008 9:43:20 PM EDT
[#7]
Im wont be able to today, but as soon as its done I will post pics
Link Posted: 8/2/2008 2:56:29 PM EDT
[#8]
scrub scrub...scrub
Link Posted: 8/2/2008 3:00:28 PM EDT
[#9]
Faster - we want pics!  Actually soaking should do it.
Link Posted: 8/2/2008 3:57:08 PM EDT
[#10]
I dont have anything to soak it in, and im too cheap to buy something .
Link Posted: 8/3/2008 10:29:03 AM EDT
[#11]
How it came to me...









After stripping with mineral spirits...









I didnt plan on refinishing the wood until after I read this thread. This is my 1st SKS and I just planned on cleaning the cosmoline and shooting it. Now I wish I had searched for the one with the best wood as mine is a little rough. But I know it will look better when im done and I am looking forward to the end result. Thanks for the tips.

I know the pics are mediocre, but its the best I can do with my camera.

I should be able to finish it tomorrow. Until then...



Link Posted: 8/3/2008 1:03:26 PM EDT
[#12]
Looks damned good - take some of the dings out of the side with 80, 150, 220 grit if you want to spend the time.

Looks nice and smooth stripped.  Once you have it all done, it will be the best looking SKS you will ever see - better than when it left the factory and the finish will last a lifetime.

Without a cleaning like you are doing - the cosmo is never really out - it oozes on a hot day, is under parts, etc.

I know it seems like a lot of work, but once done,  you NEVER have to worry about cosmo or redo the stock again - just wax it.

The bore: clean it really well.  You can buy bore cleaner.  I used a homemade mix of bleach, oxyclean, comet and amonia.  Scrub the hell out of it and rinse it with water really well.  Blow air throught it if you have a compressoror run dry patches if you don't.

After it is reasonably dry - oil  the barrel with your favorite oil.  I favor Mobil 1 initially and for storage.  CLP is fine for cleaning and the range.

Yugos, while not chrome lined, are a heavy barrel and will last a long, long time.  CLP it after a range trip and use a copper solvent about every third time.  It will outlive you and I.

It looks great buddy and I am eager to see it all complete.
Link Posted: 8/3/2008 4:28:30 PM EDT
[#13]
Linseed oil is drying. Overnight should do it.
Link Posted: 8/3/2008 4:32:26 PM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:
Linseed oil is drying. Overnight should do it.


Yep!
Link Posted: 8/4/2008 9:54:46 AM EDT
[#15]
Just got done with the watco (broke down and bought some). Says to wait 72 hours.

You said you sanded yours before and after the poly. with 0000 steel wool, correct?
Link Posted: 8/4/2008 10:10:27 AM EDT
[#16]
That will work - go VERY light on spraying and using steel wool on the poly!  It will turn out awesome.

Doing the handguards as well I hope - so they match!

Watco rules man - I love it!
Link Posted: 8/8/2008 1:55:12 PM EDT
[#17]
I dont know if its the humidity here or what, but mine is still sticky. Its been 5 days. The wait continues...
Link Posted: 8/8/2008 3:50:42 PM EDT
[#18]
Steel wool off the excess and put it in a warm place.
Link Posted: 8/9/2008 7:35:42 AM EDT
[#19]
I refinishied one of mine, but I did it the hard way.  I used mineral spirits to pull out the cosmoline.  When dry, I tried to use Tung Oil, but my basement had some humidity in it would never quite dry and harden the way I thought it would.

So, I MS's the hell out of it, and when dry, took sandpaper and sanded the whole thing down.  I took a lot off to get past some of the nicks.  I then stained it to try and pull out some of the wood grain and to change the color a little.  I used a red mahogany stain that also sealed the wood up.  I am happy with the way it turned out for my first try.  I have another SKS, but haven't decided if I will touch it or not.  My hands hurt just thinking about all the sanding I did on this.  (What do you think?)





I would be interested if anyone out there has a wooden gas tube.  As you can see on mine, it came with plastic.  I would love to stain one to match the gun.
Link Posted: 8/9/2008 8:52:13 AM EDT
[#20]

Quoted:
I refinishied one of mine, but I did it the hard way.  I used mineral spirits to pull out the cosmoline.  When dry, I tried to use Tung Oil, but my basement had some humidity in it would never quite dry and harden the way I thought it would.

So, I MS's the hell out of it, and when dry, took sandpaper and sanded the whole thing down.  I took a lot off to get past some of the nicks.  I then stained it to try and pull out some of the wood grain and to change the color a little.  I used a red mahogany stain that also sealed the wood up.  I am happy with the way it turned out for my first try.  I have another SKS, but haven't decided if I will touch it or not.  My hands hurt just thinking about all the sanding I did on this.  (What do you think?)

i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/Kujoe_02/P2020089.jpg



I would be interested if anyone out there has a wooden gas tube.  As you can see on mine, it came with plastic.  I would love to stain one to match the gun.


Hell I think it looks great - Russians are hard to do and get right!

Sanding - I use a palm sander or belt sander - depending.  You can get the display models for $29 - Ryobi - cheap- but fine for what you and I are doing..

Wooden handguard for the gas tube - I can get you one no problem - but without the actual gas tube.  How they get the metal off without damaging the gas tune is a mystery to me, so I never tried it. I can be done though.  Oil isn't going to dry so you have to apply enough to soak in, but not over-saturate.  Same with linseed oil I use.  Read the instructions and see if it says you can coat the oil with polyurethane - that would seal it in and give you the hard finish you want.  I LOVE WATCO Danish oil - it has stain, sealer and polymer - it just looks beautifuland is the most durable I have found to date.

What is your other SKS?  Yugo and Chinese are easier - the Russian are the toughest due to the color.

Humidity - I ran a dehumidifier I already had and also used a mushroom heater to speed drying time.  Granted - a lot of work - but the final finish will last a lifetime.

Can I get a BEFORE pic of the other SKS?

I already had all the tools - sanders and what not as I TRY and do woodwork as a hobby - same with the heater (auxilary heat) and dehumidifier (damp basement).
Link Posted: 8/9/2008 8:55:35 AM EDT
[#21]

Quoted:
Just got done with the watco (broke down and bought some). Says to wait 72 hours.

You said you sanded yours before and after the poly. with 0000 steel wool, correct?


OK - come on - some pics of the progress!
Link Posted: 8/9/2008 12:12:08 PM EDT
[#22]

Quoted:

Hell I think it looks great - Russians are hard to do and get right!

Sanding - I use a palm sander or belt sander - depending.  You can get the display models for $29 - Ryobi - cheap- but fine for what you and I are doing..

Wooden handguard for the gas tube - I can get you one no problem - but without the actual gas tube.  How they get the metal off without damaging the gas tune is a mystery to me, so I never tried it. I can be done though.  Oil isn't going to dry so you have to apply enough to soak in, but not over-saturate.  Same with linseed oil I use.  Read the instructions and see if it says you can coat the oil with polyurethane - that would seal it in and give you the hard finish you want.  I LOVE WATCO Danish oil - it has stain, sealer and polymer - it just looks beautifuland is the most durable I have found to date.

What is your other SKS?  Yugo and Chinese are easier - the Russian are the toughest due to the color.

Humidity - I ran a dehumidifier I already had and also used a mushroom heater to speed drying time.  Granted - a lot of work - but the final finish will last a lifetime.

Can I get a BEFORE pic of the other SKS?

I already had all the tools - sanders and what not as I TRY and do woodwork as a hobby - same with the heater (auxilary heat) and dehumidifier (damp basement).


Well, that's the trick with the gas tube.  I have seen the wooden ones for sale, but only the wood, not with a gas tube in it already.  So I am stuck.

As far as the other SKS, they are both Norinkos.  The other SKS is with a family member (on semi-permanent loan you could say).  But I got it all cleaned up nice and it is in great condition.  I think that I did coat it with some poly after the stain, if I remember right because I had to sand down the stain after each coat.  I stained it with two coats.  Unfortunately, I sanded it down far enough that it almost go rid of the serial number on the stock.  I can recut it I guess or burn it in.

Anyway, I'm not sure if I want to redo the next one unless I can come up with a process to darken up the rings of the wood.  I love the way some Tula's look with the wood finish.  I wish I could duplicate that with China wood.
Link Posted: 8/11/2008 3:54:40 PM EDT
[#23]
I know im taking forever, but im getting there. I sanded and did the urethane tonight. Gonna let it dry, sand one more time and apply the Minwax.
Link Posted: 8/11/2008 4:07:38 PM EDT
[#24]

Quoted:
I know im taking forever, but im getting there. I sanded and did the urethane tonight. Gonna let it dry, sand one more time and apply the Minwax.


Sweet - hey perfection takes time - the finish will last a lot longer than it took to apply it.

Can't wait to see it all assembled with a brand new finish.
Link Posted: 8/11/2008 4:18:42 PM EDT
[#25]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Hell I think it looks great - Russians are hard to do and get right!

Sanding - I use a palm sander or belt sander - depending.  You can get the display models for $29 - Ryobi - cheap- but fine for what you and I are doing..

Wooden handguard for the gas tube - I can get you one no problem - but without the actual gas tube.  How they get the metal off without damaging the gas tune is a mystery to me, so I never tried it. I can be done though.  Oil isn't going to dry so you have to apply enough to soak in, but not over-saturate.  Same with linseed oil I use.  Read the instructions and see if it says you can coat the oil with polyurethane - that would seal it in and give you the hard finish you want.  I LOVE WATCO Danish oil - it has stain, sealer and polymer - it just looks beautifuland is the most durable I have found to date.

What is your other SKS?  Yugo and Chinese are easier - the Russian are the toughest due to the color.

Humidity - I ran a dehumidifier I already had and also used a mushroom heater to speed drying time.  Granted - a lot of work - but the final finish will last a lifetime.

Can I get a BEFORE pic of the other SKS?

I already had all the tools - sanders and what not as I TRY and do woodwork as a hobby - same with the heater (auxilary heat) and dehumidifier (damp basement).


Well, that's the trick with the gas tube.  I have seen the wooden ones for sale, but only the wood, not with a gas tube in it already.  So I am stuck.

As far as the other SKS, they are both Norinkos.  The other SKS is with a family member (on semi-permanent loan you could say).  But I got it all cleaned up nice and it is in great condition.  I think that I did coat it with some poly after the stain, if I remember right because I had to sand down the stain after each coat.  I stained it with two coats.  Unfortunately, I sanded it down far enough that it almost go rid of the serial number on the stock.  I can recut it I guess or burn it in.

Anyway, I'm not sure if I want to redo the next one unless I can come up with a process to darken up the rings of the wood.  I love the way some Tula's look with the wood finish.  I wish I could duplicate that with China wood.


I like them to look original - just like when they were issued.
Link Posted: 8/18/2008 10:22:53 AM EDT
[#26]

Quoted:
I know im taking forever, but im getting there. I sanded and did the urethane tonight. Gonna let it dry, sand one more time and apply the Minwax.


Well - where is the finished product?
Link Posted: 8/18/2008 1:44:26 PM EDT
[#27]
should you keep applying BLO til the stock stops accepting it?? or just 3 coats??
Link Posted: 8/18/2008 5:21:27 PM EDT
[#28]

Quoted:
should you keep applying BLO til the stock stops accepting it?? or just 3 coats??


I'd say 2 coats to start and then you have to see if it's moist (good) or dry (bad - apply another coat.

Let's see some finished product!
Link Posted: 8/18/2008 6:38:08 PM EDT
[#29]
Damn Ive applied about 5 coats to my stock and there are certain areas where when I come back to wipe off after about 15 min its dry/absorbed all of the oil but most of the stock is still wet with oil. This is mainly happening at the butt end of the stock especially by the serian # stamping on the stock.
Link Posted: 8/18/2008 6:56:46 PM EDT
[#30]

Quoted:
Damn Ive applied about 5 coats to my stock and there are certain areas where when I come back to wipe off after about 15 min its dry/absorbed all of the oil but most of the stock is still wet with oil. This is mainly happening at the butt end of the stock especially by the serian # stamping on the stock.


Too much - original instructions say 2 coats.  STOP, steel wool it and get it uniform, then move on to the next step.
Link Posted: 8/19/2008 1:57:52 PM EDT
[#31]
I picked this up for $209 last year.

I used tung oil and a good amount of elbow grease and came up with this:



Check out this wood grain, I love it:

Link Posted: 8/19/2008 6:58:17 PM EDT
[#32]

Quoted:
I picked this up for $209 last year.

I used tung oil and a good amount of elbow grease and came up with this:
i9.photobucket.com/albums/a77/millersho/SKS1.jpg


Check out this wood grain, I love it:

i9.photobucket.com/albums/a77/millersho/SKS2.jpg


Beautiful!
Link Posted: 8/19/2008 10:01:29 PM EDT
[#33]

Quoted:
I picked this up for $209 last year.

I used tung oil and a good amount of elbow grease and came up with this:
i9.photobucket.com/albums/a77/millersho/SKS1.jpg


Check out this wood grain, I love it:

i9.photobucket.com/albums/a77/millersho/SKS2.jpg

VERY NICE!!!
Link Posted: 8/19/2008 11:43:22 PM EDT
[#34]
Thanks everyone.
It's amazing how well these rifles clean up, you would have never saw the rifle you see in the pics when it was first pulled out of the box.
Link Posted: 8/20/2008 1:20:45 AM EDT
[#35]

Quoted:
Thanks everyone.
It's amazing how well these rifles clean up, you would have never saw the rifle you see in the pics when it was first pulled out of the box.


Very true and IMO an SKS is a lot of weapon for the $.  Reliable, durable, accurate enough for it's intended purpose.  I love the damned things.

My eyes being bad, I use the TS200 sights and from a bench can get pretty serious groups at 50 yards.

Funny how people really like the Russians - I think they are the worst shooters.

Paratrooper
Yugo
Norinco 20"

I like them in that order
Link Posted: 8/20/2008 4:20:47 PM EDT
[#36]
Ok heres my finished product. It doesnt look as good as the ones you guys posted, but its better than when I got it. I may strip it and do it again cuz I really dont like the color I chose for the wood.







My camera sucks so my pics arent that good either. What did you guys use to get the finish so shiny?
Link Posted: 8/20/2008 4:27:57 PM EDT
[#37]

Quoted:
Ok heres my finished product. It doesnt look as good as the ones you guys posted, but its better than when I got it. I may strip it and do it again cuz I really dont like the color I chose for the wood.

i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd278/sweetga-girl/SKS003.jpg

i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd278/sweetga-girl/SKS002-1.jpg

i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd278/sweetga-girl/SKS001.jpg

My camera sucks so my pics arent that good either. What did you guys use to get the finish so shiny?


Hell - I think it looks great.  Shiny?  I am guessing the three THIN coats of urethane, lightly rubbed with 0000 steel wool or super fine sandpaper (600 grit) and multiple coats of that minwax fine furniture wax/polish.  Or the flash from the camera

Dude- I am betting it looks better than when you receeived it and better than the "excellent" ones being sold for $259 plus shipping.

That finish will last forever.  Great job!

Anyone else want one done, I can do it for you - cheap and good!
Link Posted: 8/20/2008 4:49:28 PM EDT
[#38]
Thanks for the advice threw this refinish by the way. I may just get another one if only to practice my refinishing skills .
Link Posted: 8/20/2008 4:54:15 PM EDT
[#39]

Quoted:
Thanks for the advice threw this refinish by the way. I may just get another one if only to practice my refinishing skills .


My pleasure - next up my Norinco and paratrooper.
Link Posted: 8/20/2008 5:02:31 PM EDT
[#40]
Cool. This time I will be waiting on YOUR before and after pics .
Link Posted: 8/21/2008 9:00:32 AM EDT
[#41]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Thanks everyone.
It's amazing how well these rifles clean up, you would have never saw the rifle you see in the pics when it was first pulled out of the box.



Funny how people really like the Russians - I think they are the worst shooters.


Russians are by far the best in quality, and they have been proven on this website in many threads to be the most accurate and reliable of all sks's.
Link Posted: 8/21/2008 9:57:04 AM EDT
[#42]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
Thanks everyone.
It's amazing how well these rifles clean up, you would have never saw the rifle you see in the pics when it was first pulled out of the box.



Funny how people really like the Russians - I think they are the worst shooters.


Russians are by far the best in quality, and they have been proven on this website in many threads to be the most accurate and reliable of all sks's.


Great- buy the two I have listed in EE then and put your money where your mouth is.  Russians are pretty and nowhere near as good shooting wise as my Yugo or Noricos.

How many SKSs you own? Have you shot all the types?  How do you prove how well a rifle shoots on a website?  I have to use a range.

I had 7 - I shot them all.  I stand by my statement.

Make you a nice deal on them 2 Russians
Link Posted: 8/21/2008 2:03:24 PM EDT
[#43]

Quoted:
Thanks for the advice threw this refinish by the way. I may just get another one if only to practice my refinishing skills .


Ditto that.  Just subscribed to this thread and am now after an un-issued one to run this drill on.  Looking forward to a similar result and the same satisfaction.  All the great info is appreciated.  The pix are not showing up for me though.
Link Posted: 8/21/2008 2:17:08 PM EDT
[#44]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Thanks for the advice threw this refinish by the way. I may just get another one if only to practice my refinishing skills .


Ditto that.  Just subscribed to this thread and am now after an un-issued one to run this drill on.  Looking forward to a similar result and the same satisfaction.  All the great info is appreciated.  The pix are not showing up for me though.


Yeah - sorry about the pics - I sold a web site and can put them elsewhere andfix the IMG link if I have time.

Or I can just FTP them back up.  Stand by.

ETA: Pics fixed.  I will eventually have to move them.
Link Posted: 8/23/2008 8:47:09 AM EDT
[#45]
Maryland Shooter.......



If I was in the market for another Russian after listening to how you talk I wouldn't be buying one from you. So I will take my money and put it in someone else's mouth.

I am sure a true Russian collector will take them off your hands if they are in good condition.

As far as your yugo and norinco shooting better, ROFL......

I have 3 sks's at the moment. 1 Russian and 2 Yugos.

I have shot russians, yugos, norincos etc....  None are more accurate then a Russian.

And as stated above there are many threads on "THIS" website where guys have benched their sks's and posted the results, so that is how you post results on the net. It's a novel idea I know.

Link Posted: 8/23/2008 11:00:10 AM EDT
[#46]

Quoted:
Maryland Shooter.......



If I was in the market for another Russian after listening to how you talk I wouldn't be buying one from you. So I will take my money and put it in someone else's mouth.

I am sure a true Russian collector will take them off your hands if they are in good condition.

As far as your yugo and norinco shooting better, ROFL......

I have 3 sks's at the moment. 1 Russian and 2 Yugos.

I have shot russians, yugos, norincos etc....  None are more accurate then a Russian.

And as stated above there are many threads on "THIS" website where guys have benched their sks's and posted the results, so that is how you post results on the net. It's a novel idea I know.



I'm assuming maryland shooter has benched each one of these rifles?

If none of you have benched these sks's then you're both talking out your ass.
Link Posted: 8/23/2008 11:31:13 AM EDT
[#47]

Quoted:
Maryland Shooter.......



If I was in the market for another Russian after listening to how you talk I wouldn't be buying one from you. So I will take my money and put it in someone else's mouth.

I am sure a true Russian collector will take them off your hands if they are in good condition.

As far as your yugo and norinco shooting better, ROFL......

I have 3 sks's at the moment. 1 Russian and 2 Yugos.

I have shot russians, yugos, norincos etc....  None are more accurate then a Russian.

And as stated above there are many threads on "THIS" website where guys have benched their sks's and posted the results, so that is how you post results on the net. It's a novel idea I know.



So where's the link to your bench tests - or anyone elses?
Link Posted: 8/23/2008 11:33:47 AM EDT
[#48]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Maryland Shooter.......



If I was in the market for another Russian after listening to how you talk I wouldn't be buying one from you. So I will take my money and put it in someone else's mouth.

I am sure a true Russian collector will take them off your hands if they are in good condition.

As far as your yugo and norinco shooting better, ROFL......

I have 3 sks's at the moment. 1 Russian and 2 Yugos.

I have shot russians, yugos, norincos etc....  None are more accurate then a Russian.

And as stated above there are many threads on "THIS" website where guys have benched their sks's and posted the results, so that is how you post results on the net. It's a novel idea I know.



I'm assuming maryland shooter has benched each one of these rifles?

If none of you have benched these sks's then you're both talking out your ass.


You got a dog in this hunt, or just trolling?

I stated whay I had and my experince with them - have an opinion.  EOS.
Link Posted: 8/23/2008 11:35:54 AM EDT
[#49]

Quoted:
Maryland Shooter.......



If I was in the market for another Russian after listening to how you talk I wouldn't be buying one from you. So I will take my money and put it in someone else's mouth.

I am sure a true Russian collector will take them off your hands if they are in good condition.

As far as your yugo and norinco shooting better, ROFL......

I have 3 sks's at the moment. 1 Russian and 2 Yugos.

I have shot russians, yugos, norincos etc....  None are more accurate then a Russian.

And as stated above there are many threads on "THIS" website where guys have benched their sks's and posted the results, so that is how you post results on the net. It's a novel idea I know.



Well I'm all teared up you aren't buying my SKSs.  The tread is about refinishing - go start your own and I'll come over and state my experience.  Go troll someone else's thread.
Link Posted: 8/23/2008 4:28:23 PM EDT
[#50]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
Maryland Shooter.......



If I was in the market for another Russian after listening to how you talk I wouldn't be buying one from you. So I will take my money and put it in someone else's mouth.

I am sure a true Russian collector will take them off your hands if they are in good condition.

As far as your yugo and norinco shooting better, ROFL......

I have 3 sks's at the moment. 1 Russian and 2 Yugos.

I have shot russians, yugos, norincos etc....  None are more accurate then a Russian.

And as stated above there are many threads on "THIS" website where guys have benched their sks's and posted the results, so that is how you post results on the net. It's a novel idea I know.



I'm assuming maryland shooter has benched each one of these rifles?

If none of you have benched these sks's then you're both talking out your ass.


You got a dog in this hunt, or just trolling?

I stated whay I had and my experince with them - have an opinion.  EOS.


Seems like a valid thing to ask, "did you bench them?" That would take out as much human variables in the matter but even then wouldn't eliminate them completely but would give us a better starting point.


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