What does the "G" stand for??

I have it on my Romy kit also.

FREE

Quoted: So far I've managed to refinish the handguard on mine...  Plenty of sanding (60 followed by 150, then a going-over with a wood finishing pad), then I believe I put on three coats (maybe four) of Minwax "Polyshades Bombay Mahogany Gloss 480".  Used a terry-cloth sponge pad to apply.  Between coats I'd wipe it down again to a matte look with the finishing pad. I left all the scratches and dents just as they were (which is minimal), gives her some character. Turned out to give a deep semi-gloss dark reddish color.  Very nice in my opinion. i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/rwkerstetter/HandguardRestain02CropResize.jpg

The orange "G" stands for "Garda" which is Romanian for guard. This past October, I went to the Romanian National Military Museum in Bucharest.  The rifles were for the Patriotic Guard and not the regular army.  The display for the black banded Patriotic Guard rifles said that they were semi-auto only.  All the full auto parts were in the rifle except that the full auto disconnector had the tail ground off which made it fire semi auto only.  The Patriotic Guard was mandatory service for all highschool aged kids... girls and boys.  Think of it as a combination of the Young Pioneers and the National Guard.  Here is a picture of the black banded Patriotic Guard rifle I took at the museum...

Thanks that the answer I needed.

FREE

Can someone elaborate on the "bleaching" step of refinishing please?  I've got my Romy wood stripped of the old finish and ready to proceed.  Thanks all.

Quoted: Can someone elaborate on the "bleaching" step of refinishing please?  I've got my Romy wood stripped of the old finish and ready to proceed.  Thanks all.

For bleaching the wood, I soak the wood in very hot water and clorox bleach.  I use a pretty strong bleach solution of about 1 part bleach to 2 parts hot water.  I let the wood soak in this solution for about 2 to 3 hours.  Be sure to remove the spring in the butt stock before soaking in bleach water solution or it'll rust.  Some people have had good results using oxyclean too.  Here's a picture of another Romanian stock set I just finished today...



BTW, Dalesimpson, if you read this post, this is the Rommy set I just bought from you!

Finally finished the buttstock...  Once again, Minwax Polyshades "Bombay Mahogany".

Quoted: Finally finished the buttstock...  Once again, Minwax Polyshades "Bombay Mahogany". i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/rwkerstetter/RomanianAKM-47New03.jpg i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/rwkerstetter/RomanianAKM-47New02.jpg

You're an inspiration to us all.

Quoted: Quoted: Finally finished the buttstock...  Once again, Minwax Polyshades "Bombay Mahogany". i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/rwkerstetter/RomanianAKM-47New03.jpg i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/rwkerstetter/RomanianAKM-47New02.jpg You're an inspiration to us all.

Maybe one day you too will be able to incorporate toasters in all your firearm pictures.

One question though...  Should I stick with the almost-matching grip, or should I put on a black synthetic?  Or should I find some scrap wood and make my own, then stain it to match?

As for being an inspiration...  Many thanks for the kind words.  I'd still say I've got a long way to go before I master any sort of staining techniques, this was only my first project.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Finally finished the buttstock...  Once again, Minwax Polyshades "Bombay Mahogany". i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/rwkerstetter/RomanianAKM-47New03.jpg i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/rwkerstetter/RomanianAKM-47New02.jpg You're an inspiration to us all. Maybe one day you too will be able to incorporate toasters in all your firearm pictures. One question though...  Should I stick with the almost-matching grip, or should I put on a black synthetic?  Or should I find some scrap wood and make my own, then stain it to match? As for being an inspiration...  Many thanks for the kind words.  I'd still say I've got a long way to go before I master any sort of staining techniques, this was only my first project.

That's a tough call.  I like the original pistol grip, but I can easily understand replacing it for parts count purposes because it's one of the more economic and simple parts to replace.  If you have the talent to make your own, more power to you.

Just picked up a WASR-10, 150 rds of 7.62, (3) 30rd mags and a sling for $295.00.
The furniture was very nice as far as the wood condition. The nasty thick clearcoat/stain had to go. I've already stripped with Bix, lightly sanded and now they are in the bleach tank for two hours. One question.
Can I use the denatured alcohol to cut the shellac and the stain both? I saw where someone used mineral sprits but I don't have any. I'll post before and after pics soon. Thanks for the tutorial to all who posted the steps for this!

I'm only guessing here but I think you could use the denatured alcohol to cut the stain.  The only problem that I foresee is that the DA evaporates rather quickly whereas the mineral spirits/paint thinner won't.  Why don't you just go buy a pint of mineral spirits?

What is the purpose of the betadine?

John

Ok, ok, I'll do it the right way.
I made a list based on your earlier post and home depot had everything but the Betadine,(of course) and the amber shellac. So I went to Lowes and they had the shellac. I drove home ready to get started and forgot to get the betadine so I had to get back into traffic and get that. Now......you guessed it...the mineral spirits. I guess I shouldn't rush so much. Thanks for the quick response!!!!

one more thing- I just pulled the buttstock out of the bleach water (2hrs) The handguards have been out about an hour. Did you wait until they were completly dry before applying the betadine?

Quoted: What is the purpose of the betadine? John

I believe it adds to the color he was looking for. I like the color so I'm trying to come close to it.

Since so many people are asking questions, I'll post the basic steps I follow when refinishing my Rommy stocks....BTW, the betadine is used for a base color.

After I soaked it in hot bleach water for 2 to 3 hours, I then soaked it it some hot soapy water to remove the bleach. Remember to remove the spring in the buttstock prior to bleaching or it'll rust out.  Next, you should let the stockset air dry for a couple of days.  If you want to speed up the process, you can stick the stockset in the oven at the lowest temperature setting with the door open for about an hour or so.  If you use the oven to dry out the wood, I would suggest not putting the upper handguard in there as it may split since it's not laminated.  After the wood has dried, you'll want to sand it down with some 100 to 150 grit sand paper.  If at this point, the wood looks free of stains you can begin to stain it.  If there are still some stains that you want to get rid of, you can repeat the bleaching process again.

The staining method I use is to apply betadine/iodine solution to the wood.  Betadine can be found in the bandaid section of most drug stores.  I found that Walmart has the best price on it.  Betadine is a dark reddish orange color.  I apply about 3 or 4 coats to the wood... you can soak it, brush it on or rub it in with a rag.  After the betadine has dried, you'll be left with a orange/yellowish color to the wood.  This is your base color.  Betadine is water based so it will raise the grain a little so, after it's dried, you'll want to lightly sand the wood with very fine sandpaper (220 grit) to knock down the grain.  Next, I apply some diluted Minwax Red Mahogony stain to the stock with a rag.  I usually dilute to 1 part stain to 3 parts mineral spirits(paint thinner).  I usually apply this dilution about 2 times.  Once the stain has air dried, I apply 3 coats of Zinsser Amber Shellac.  You can find this at Home Depot or Lowe's.  Be sure and get the Amber Shellac.  This will add a nice golden hue to the wood.  I usually dilute the shellac with a little denatured alcohol since the shellac is a little thick.  You can also use rubbing alcohol to dilute a little bit.  Shellac dries amazingly fast so be sure that you work quickly when applying it.  In between coats of shellac, I lightly rub the wood down with some very fine steel wool.  Since shellac is not the most durable wood finish, I usually apply a couple of coats of spray on urethane for added durability once I finish with the shellac and it is dry.

I think I'll try it without the betadine, and use polyurethane for the finish coat in an inconspicous spot and see what it looks like.
My parts are drying from the bleach soak last night.

John

Do you need to use chemical stripper on WASR10 furniture?

Quoted: Do you need to use chemical stripper on WASR10 furniture?

I have no idea as I've never owned a WASR. I guess it depends whether there is any type of varnish on it or not.  If it's bare wood, then probably not.

I gave a dab of the mahogny (sp) red stain, undiluted, on some of the stock parts. It was a bit too brown like a commercial gunstock.
There was a "new" stain color from miniwax called "sedonna red". I bought some of that, and it just might be the right reddish color after a couple of applications. The upper  guard and part of the vertical grip are test pieces with the first coats.

I only just now noticed that on my Guard buttstocks (like described above) had the black put on by dipping, cause I saw the black paint up inside the holes int he buttstock. I've been thinking about putting the black stripe on to make it more or less authenitic looking.

John

I bought "military stock stain" from chestnut ridge supply. I am going to follow the directions on linx's romanian AK site

I just finished a stock set for my new Romanian high cap WASR-10 (I picked it up in a trade deal at the last show I was set up at, it was a good deal).

Anyway, pulled the stocks, stripped them, sanded them lightly...nice laminate butt and pistol grip handguard....upper handguard solid wood.

I went out and bought some RIT...scarlet and yellow. Dumped some into a coffee filter and filtered 91% Isopropyl through a few times...mixed the scarlet and yellow to get a nice deep reddish orange. Stained the wood with several coats. It was a bit "bright" orangey....so I then hit it with a coat of Feibigs Medium Brown Dye....Success! Perfect "iodine" orange color.

Then I hung them on some twin and hooks, and sprayed them with 4 or 5 light coats os Minwax spray semi-gloss poly...let the dry for two days....man did they come out nice. Frickin beautiful....to good almost to put back on that not so perfect scratched receiver ( a few minor dings and scratches...looks like from packing, and handling)!

I am still debating getting rid of the pistol grip handguard and going with a regular AKM type laminate, and possibly replacing the upper with a laminate...

Now if I can just get my Bulgie AK-74 with plum furniture finished...and by one of those Atlantic Firearms Vector underfolders....and....and....shit, I need more money!

In any case, as you guys have shown, and I discovered, with a little work, you can get some really nice stocks out of these!

It's required that you show some pictures!

Here the furniture on my Rommie build...





Sign_Wolfman

Very nice Wolfman, very nice indeed.  The weapon overall looks to be in great condition, beautiful.

Wow...that is a beaut!

Tapeo,

Quoted: Thanks!   I first took off the old finish with Bix stripper then I soaked them in some hot bleach water for about 2 or 3 hours. After letting them dry out good... I cheated by placing them in my oven for a few hours set at "warm" with the door cracked open.  This turned out to be about 130 F or so.  Next, I applied betadine with a brush.  I did this about 3 times.  I then wiped them down with a rag, and let them dry out again.  By this time, they were a yellowish/orange color. I then applied some minwax Red Mahogany stain which I diluted about 1 part stain to 2 parts mineral spirits and wiped them down with that.   What did you wipe them down with? Brush or Rag? After they dried out again, I applied 3 coats of Zinsser (SP?) Amber Shellac.  That's about it.   How did you apply it, with a brush or spray on?

Thanks!

What did you wipe them down with? Brush or Rag?
I used a rag.

How did you apply it, with a brush or spray on?
I used a brush.

I used Bix stripper. The black stripe on the buttstock was the most stubborn but if you use a slightly stiff, plastic bristled brush, it will help. I used one from the paint and re-finish section at Wally World. Then I soaked the furniture in hot water with some Clorox bleach for about an hour or so. I let them sit in the sun for about two hours to dry, turning them over every 30 mins. When they were dry, I then used medium steel wool working down to #0000 steel wool. I tried to get the wood finish glassy. I then put about 6 coats of Equate iodine solution from Wally World on. Let it dry a while between coats until you get an orange color. I then used 2 light coats of Minwax Red Mahogany stain. I let it dry and put around 6 coats of Formby's tung oil on buffing it with #0000 steel wool in between coats to knock out the imperfections. The re-finished set is the top one in the pictures.

lookin' good!

Quoted: I then put about 6 coats of Equate iodine solution from Wally World on. Let it dry a while between coats until you get an orange color. I then used 2 light coats of Minwax Red Mahogany stain. I let it dry and put around 6 coats of Formby's tung oil on buffing it with #0000 steel wool in between coats to knock out the imperfections. The re-finished set is the top one in the pictures. i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/Blitzgr10/DSCN0559.jpg i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/Blitzgr10/DSCN0558.jpg i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/Blitzgr10/DSCN0553.jpg i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/Blitzgr10/DSCN0556.jpg

Wow, bakelite mags should match very well with that color.  Beautiful work!

Mine are almost done, Just drying right now!

I screwed up the handguard...came out about 2 shades darker than the stock. Stock came out BEAUTIFULLY THOUGH!

An "Armed" Toaster, now I have seen everything!!!

Got my first AR, GPWASR 10. sling, bayonet lug, bayonet, sling, mag pouchs, 2:30 round mags. Flash Hider.

The laminated furniture is rock solid, but seems like no oil on it, like it matters on laminate.
Metal looks ok.

Would plain old MINWAX stain darken it up a bit? or should I sand it & use a liguid poly stain?
any tricks to removing the furniture? Pure noob to AK's

Thanks

Quoted: Mine are almost done, Just drying right now!

So, when do we get to see some pictures?

Quoted: Quoted: Mine are almost done, Just drying right now! So, when do we get to see some pictures?

Trying to find AA camera batteries and cable to upload pictures. Stock turned out awesome, the LHG turned out really nasty.

I just have to say, i followed your guide and I am very grateful for all the information that was posted in this thread.  My stocks turned out perfect and my gun is near complete.  Thanks again.

Quoted: I just have to say, i followed your guide and I am very grateful for all the information that was posted in this thread.  My stocks turned out perfect and my gun is near complete.  Thanks again.

We wanna see some pics!

Post those pics guys!

Some more stock sets...

I've done two sets thanks to your advice and they turned out great! I posted mine in the thread about using a stripper on Wasr furniture. Thanks again Tapeo.

BTT

Did you use the same method on that last stock set as you did on the first one?  The colors look signifcantly different.  I'm tryign to go for a lighter look, I think it looks better than the red color most people are doing.  What kind of stain would I use for that?

I'm assuming that you're asking me... yes, it's essentially the same method but you get different results depending on how much betadine you use and how long you let it soak in.  Also, it depends upon how much you dilute the stain with mineral spirits and how many coats you use.  It also depends upon the lighting in which you take your pictures

Here are a few pics of the ones I did. Only thing I did different was that I didn't use betadine, but instead opted for a stain that would closely match the color I was looking for. It was Minwax Colonial Maple, for those wondering. I sprayed them two coats of semi-gloss polyeurethane after three coats of stain. I also didn't want a real shiney finish, so I didn't buff out the semi-gloss finish between coats. Hardest part was removing the furniture from the gun without breaking it. Evidently I was the first to ever do it to my gun.

BEFORE:
http://i2.tinypic.com/qxj41s.jpg

AFTER:
http://i2.tinypic.com/qxj4ht.jpg
http://i2.tinypic.com/qxj4pj.jpg
http://i2.tinypic.com/qxj4zs.jpg

OK a few questions.
When you are brushing on the Betadine how long do you wait between coats?
How long do you wait before you wipe it down after the last coat?


Any tips and refinishing  the wood on my Yugo M92?
I want to keep the light color  but I want some shine on it.

TIA

Quoted: Any tips and refinishing  the wood on my Yugo M92? I want to keep the light color  but I want some shine on it.

I used Danish Oil on mine. It adds just a hint of color, and then after 3 or 4 coats (rubbed in between with steel wool) it dries to a nice soft shine. Tung Oil works good too.

Tapeo1.

Will you refinish my Romy stock sets if I monetarily compensate well for your expertize, and time?

I really dig that orange that my eye is seeing/hallucinating. I want to match all of my Romy Kits to match that.

Do you take work?

Thanks in Advance.

I bought ironwood walnut stock set for my WASR-10, it is almost finished. the last coat of semi-gloss is drying right now and it looks great

Quoted: Tapeo1. Will you refinish my Romy stock sets if I monetarily compensate well for your expertize, and time? I really dig that orange that my eye is seeing/hallucinating. I want to match all of my Romy Kits to match that. Do you take work? Thanks in Advance. i17.photobucket.com/albums/b74/Blitzgr10/DSCN0558.jpg

That wasn't me that refinished the stocks in the picture you poseted.  It was BlitzGR10 that did them.  I refinshed the ones in some other pictures on this thread.