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Posted: 9/11/2005 10:48:53 AM EDT
[#1]
Why do you have to replace the gas tube? Is it completely fubared? Or, are you referring to the wood that sits on the gas tube? There is no 'kit' to replace the wood, rather you just change out the wood for a different piece. There are instructions for replacing the gas tube wood. Type in 'AK gas tube wood removal' into Google to find instructions.
To see if you will have trouble finding a replacement stock, you need to pull the buttstock off the rifle and see if the receiver is angle cut or not. If it is straight, then you will not have any trouble finding a stock. any stock for an stamped receiver will fit. However, if it is an angle cut receiver at the rear, then you will need to go get a specific buttstock for the rifle. Ironwood Designs is suppose to make great repacement stocks for angle cut receivers. AKs are very simple to completely strip down. You can not easily remove the barrel from the receiver, nor remove the gas block, nor the front sight. You could take it to a smith and have it lightly sand blasted and either parkerized or reblued. If the rust is not to bad, take some gun oil and some 000 or 0000 steel wool and buff the surface. This will remove any rust without touching the bluing. After that, take some cold blue to the stee. For cold blue, I perfer Brownells Formula 44/40 as it seems to give a really nice blue black color. |
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Posted: 9/11/2005 11:33:31 AM EDT
[#2]
Soaking it is probly not the best thing to do since it will just seaal in the water I would bake it to get it dry then once our sure its dry lightly oil. And the wood uper hand gaurd can be removed.
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Posted: 9/11/2005 11:42:45 AM EDT
[#3]
I had a Norinco,back in the eighties,that spent a couple weeks on its side in about a foot of water.The stock set dried out fine,I removed the wood,stuck the rifle in the oven for about an hour,oiled it up and went to the range.It lost most of the original finish,but turned out fine.
The wood on the handguard has to be rotated to remove,why do you have to cut out the ass end of the reciever,is it a milled MAK 90 or one of the converted underfolders? |
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Posted: 9/11/2005 11:56:24 AM EDT
[#4]
Look for a product called "Bullfrog" from cortec, it removes rust. It is what they use on the oil rigs off the coast to take rust off of tools, and parts.
 ...next time tell him not to bug out with out it!
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Posted: 9/11/2005 12:00:35 PM EDT
[#5]
For the Refinish------- www.lauerweaponry.com
They even have stuff to cover minor pitting.  For the stock (wood only.) complete stock set for MAK90 - NO MODS TO RIFLE www.ironwooddesigns.com/2aprod/1zAKproduct.html |
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Posted: 9/11/2005 12:02:08 PM EDT
[#6]
Because there is no cut out that the stock goes in to. The thumbhole wraps around. |
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Posted: 9/11/2005 4:53:16 PM EDT
[#7]
Look closely,on most models,the stock wraps around but also enters the rear of the reciever.There were some with underfolder recievers that were solid in the back,look for a couple plugs on each side of the back of the reciever where the rear trunnion bolt would go.On this model,the transformation to an underfolder is easy.
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Posted: 9/15/2005 6:51:34 PM EDT
[#8]
Basically my friend has lost everything so I just told him to give me the rifle and I will give it back better than it was.
Here are some pics.... Major pieces next to my WASR for comparison, How do you go about geting the bbl of an AK?  close up of the major parts... I plan on ought right replacement of the reciever cover and gas tube, not worth messing with.  close up of the polt, carrier, guid spring and reciever cover.  the receiver I have no idea of how to get a new stock on...  |
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Posted: 9/15/2005 7:02:43 PM EDT
[#9]
I think I'd buy a new AK. That thing was weird throw together of parts that Century did in the mid 90's.
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Posted: 9/15/2005 7:09:38 PM EDT
[#10]
It's a freakin AK, if you can slap it back together after cleaning it, and it goes bang when you shoot it. you're good to go.  Save the extra 'refurbishing' money you were going to spend and buy a new one that's prettier. Then you got a kick around gun and a safe queen. Just my 2 cents.... |
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Posted: 9/15/2005 7:28:44 PM EDT
[#11]
Know anyone with a sand blaster and a air compressor? If so, you're good to go. All of those pieces are easily savagable if it's only surface rust. Blast it and then apply some MolyResin or something and it'll look like new (or better than it did when it was new). You can find a new stock set from Ironwooddesigns.com for that angle cut receiver.
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Posted: 9/15/2005 8:16:53 PM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 9/16/2005 12:27:59 AM EDT
[#13]
I've seen them alot worse,I'd also consider having an underfolder conversion done.
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Posted: 9/16/2005 4:11:20 AM EDT
[#14]
wow the reciever rear end is WELDED SHUT, never seen dat before!!! looks like u will have to cut it out if u want a non MAK90 stock.
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Posted: 9/16/2005 4:37:17 AM EDT
[#15]
Should be easy enough I'd think.. Just chop out the plate, drop in an Ironwood. |
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Posted: 9/16/2005 4:40:11 AM EDT
[#16]
+1 |
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Posted: 9/16/2005 4:52:29 AM EDT
[#17]
Look up on how to remove rust electolytically with baking soda, a trickle charger, and a stainless steel container.
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Posted: 9/16/2005 7:39:14 AM EDT
[#18]
I've never seen a Mak90 that was closed at the back of the receiver like that. I'm glad mine wasn't like that.
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Posted: 9/16/2005 7:49:00 AM EDT
[#19]
+1 glad someone mentioned this. It will cost a decent amount to refinish and replace parts, when I bet if you just scrubbed rust out with wire brushes, and steel wool, then relubed it, it will run just fine. Take that money that he was going to spend on repair and replacements and buy a brand new one
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Posted: 9/16/2005 10:02:45 PM EDT
[#20]
The wood is shot, so it has to go no matter what. I've got a furniture set of poly stuff on order from sportsman's guide and a new vented gqas tube to match. I love the ironwood stuff but I'm not going to achieve a classic AK look anyway. I'll have to cut out the back of the reciever and custom fit the stock.
I think that's all the parts I'm gonna buy. I have the trigger group apart now (it's the farthest I've ever had an AK apart.) I've goten all of the surface rust off of the small pieces and the reciever top. I hope I can get it back together. Of the reciever parts the only thing with bare metal showing are the trigger and reciever top. I'm thinking krylon for them if no one else has a better suggestion that doesn't involve getting an air compressor. Now all I need is the barrel off so I can get to it for better cleaning and cold blueing. I'll probably blue the bolt and carrier as well. |
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Posted: 9/16/2005 10:10:41 PM EDT
[#21]
My MGS Tantal kit looked worse than that .........seriously.
Tint |
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Posted: 9/16/2005 10:19:41 PM EDT
[#22]
I just looked in my closet and I found a like new MAK-90 thumbhole buttstock that would fit that as it is.
I could fix that rifle up in a day or two if you were local. I've got a compressor, air brush and blast cabinet. If you know someone that has a blast cabinet all you would have to do is blast that sucker down, degrease and shoot it with K-Phos and then Gun-Kote it and bake it. The barrel is chromed so all you have to do is clean that, you don't need to take the barrel off. The bolt carrier on those came in the white. |
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Posted: 9/17/2005 12:15:56 AM EDT
[#23]
Am I the only one that thinks AK's look better when they are beat to hell?
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Posted: 9/17/2005 12:48:30 AM EDT
[#24]
DO NOT SAND BLAST SHEET METAL!
Sand blasting can heat sheet metal up too quickly in a small spot causing warpage. Here are a couple of pics of receivers that Joeken(Ewbanks) decided to "clean up" with a sand blaster. No points for guessing whats wrong.   
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Posted: 9/17/2005 2:55:16 AM EDT
[#25]
I blast gunparts/sheetmetal with aluminum oxide and have never had any problem. I would think that aluminum oxide is softer than the sheetmetal and wouldn't cause any problem. Sand though would seem to be likely to cause problems, but what do I know. I don't use sand.
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Posted: 9/17/2005 5:30:33 AM EDT
[#26]
Sand paper, Gunkote and elbow grease and that metal will look as good as new...Now as far as the receiver goes I'd put an underfold on her....
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Posted: 9/17/2005 10:55:24 AM EDT
[#27]
I think it's time for you to invest in a dremmel!
I picked up a rusty wasr10, wasn't as rusty as that but close. Using a leather buffing wheel I polished the rust off and repainted it with black Krylon. I suppose you could use a paint that you bake in the oven but I didn't. I see no point in removing the barrel, just buff that rust off repaint and enjoy. You could also cut off that rear plate with the dremmel and put a standard stock on but that is a little over my experience. |
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Posted: 9/17/2005 5:43:17 PM EDT
[#28]
I've allready got the dremel, been using steel wool on the gun though. I'm leaning towards krylon myself as well. I've been wanting to get in to gunkote or DuraKote but I really don't have the time now. Do you have pics of the Kryloned AK? |
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Posted: 9/17/2005 6:14:51 PM EDT
[#29]
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Posted: 9/17/2005 6:33:08 PM EDT
[#30]
For the finish look at alumahyde a friend used it on his cetme and it looked great take awhile to dry but he heated the parts with a hair dryer before painting and it helped some.
here is some links to a fellow who did a AK with it and Brownells www.headsbunker.com/html/2005/03/ak-74m-build-part-5.html  www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1117 |
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Posted: 9/17/2005 7:17:06 PM EDT
[#31]
The top cover on my was rusty, the lower receiver was fine. I buffed of the top cover down to bare steel (aluminum) and repainted it cheeply.
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Posted: 9/17/2005 8:19:53 PM EDT
[#32]
Don't waste your time and money cleaning it up if it costs more than $50.
Sell it on the AH, I bet you'll get $250 for it easy. Take that and buy a new clean one. Save alot of elbow grease in the process. Just a thought.... |
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Posted: 9/17/2005 9:10:36 PM EDT
[#33]
There's some satisfaction in knowing that you brought a rusty ole AK back to life though. |
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Posted: 9/17/2005 10:06:31 PM EDT
[#34]
I agree, I'm learning more about AKs than I ever thought I'd know by doing this as well. I think the whole project, new mags and all, is going to come in under $150...that is if I'm satisfied with the krylon. |
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Posted: 9/18/2005 7:52:43 AM EDT
[#35]
True. |
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Posted: 9/18/2005 10:09:00 AM EDT
[#36]
Currahee,
If you didn't live so far away, I'd offer to blast it and MolyResin it for you at no charge. Just got a new aircompressor last week
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Posted: 9/25/2005 9:27:59 PM EDT
[#37]
tag
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Posted: 9/25/2005 10:02:53 PM EDT
[#38]
I'm just about done. Getting the furniture on was a bitch but it's done and I can live with the krylon. I now know how to change an AK fire control group
. As soon as I get the tube I'll post pics
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Posted: 9/26/2005 11:20:39 PM EDT
[#39]
I think I have one of the Black Plastic Draganov (Spelling?) Stock Sets if you like those. Free if I can find it. You will not need to remove the rear plate if you go that route. If you want it, IM me and I'll search for it.
If you remove the rear plate, use a hammer and knock the plate in slightly (bottom pistol grip section). Put a screwdriver or punch through the receiver top and through the hole in the rear trunnion and knock it back out. Knock it in and out until the spot weld breaks. The one I worked on only had a spot weld at the top under the stock tang, so that knocking the bottom of the plate in, then driving it back out broke the weld after awhile. The dremel will take forever (I tried that first) and rocking the plate is faster. |
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Posted: 9/26/2005 11:51:47 PM EDT
[#40]
Am I wrong or isnt Iron Oxide and Aluminum the reason a bunch of machine shops have burned to the ground? |
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Posted: 9/26/2005 11:59:36 PM EDT
[#41]
I dunno. Aluminum Oxide is the same stuff that the grit on sand paper is made out of. |
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Posted: 10/20/2005 7:46:57 PM EDT
[#42]
Okay the project is complete. Every piece steel woolled, heat painted with krylon flat black automotive primer and paint (its doing pretty good) I buffed the rivets so it still looked a "little worn" I painted the sight markings, MADI roll mark and selector/safety markings, added a set of the poly US furniture from sportsmans guide (You can see how it went on the slant reciever, which is the only thing I don't like about it) a Tapco trigger group and gas tube with ventilated jacket (we'll see how much it heats up and may have to switch that out), wever rail for a light and a single point sling.
Let me know what you think. My budy is very pleased. (sorry for the big pics) left side with light on  right side reciever close up  family pic  |
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Posted: 10/20/2005 9:06:55 PM EDT
[#43]
You did a fine job.
That is what's known as a 'slant cut' reciever. Some manufacturers did that to prevent the installation of a standard but stock in the years right after the 'Bush' ban. It would be primo with an underfolder installed on it; do some research about what that will take. The underfolders have a reciever cut on the back real similar to what you have there. To the people who said 'it's too much work', not only is it not too much work, but there is something cool about a.), bringing it back from the dead, and b.) it's the only thing your buddy has that was his before the flood. Bonus points. I would have blasted and parked, then spray painted. It's authentic to the AK, although not the chinese AK. I would have gone with an underfolder, as well, with that gun. Good job, but the metal ventilated handguard is gay. |
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Posted: 10/20/2005 9:33:33 PM EDT
[#44]
 Looks Great I was surprised when I saw the thread peep back up and I was even more surprised when seeing the finished job. Good work. |
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Posted: 10/22/2005 7:50:48 PM EDT
[#45]
That looks great. Excellent work!
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Posted: 10/22/2005 7:58:27 PM EDT
[#46]
Looks great!
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Posted: 10/22/2005 8:33:53 PM EDT
[#47]
That warpage can be fixed. I think it would either straighten after you installed the trunnions or you could bend it back by hand. But that is because I have gone thru that before. I even bent it inwards to my dismay. But some body wedges and it was back out again. AK are so nice and forgiving like that. AR would be trashed if that happened to them. P.S. Looks great. |
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Posted: 10/24/2005 8:21:02 AM EDT
[#48]
Buddy and I got a couple of hundred rounds through it yesterday. Did a couple of things to try to get it to jam and it worked great. About as accurate as it was before the damage and certainly a lot more ergonomic.
I was worried about the vented front handguard heating up but we smoked though 3 mags and it was still easily touchable. My friend was 100% satisfied....heck I might make one for mytself and stop using an AR as my SHTF gun. |
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Posted: 10/24/2005 8:46:44 AM EDT
[#49]
you use a water-unfriendly AR as your SHTF gun? shame on you  j/k. nice job. |
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Posted: 10/24/2005 8:47:49 AM EDT
[#50]
how were you able to mount a light on there like that? would like to do the same to mine. 
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