User Panel
Hey Charlie, I built up the Yugo UF. I'll post picts on your site later. Thanks Caspian |
|
|
How did you start with a standard flat and end up with a receiver for an underfolder?
Is it hard to locate those holes? |
|
no. i used center punches to line up the holes. basically, i lined the rear trunion on the back of the receiver and transfered the center of the holes. they were easier to line up than my Romy since the back trunion is bigger and easier to visualize how it sits. Caspian |
|
|
Looking forward to seeing that....hope you liked the kit. |
||
|
Great job. I understand the need to have a few extra receivers around. On an underfolder if you use a uni-bit it is very easy to make the required holes, just use the rear trunion to locate them an drill to the proper size. Only takes a couple of min. Measure twice drill once :)
|
|
nice, im working on my Romy build as we speek, haveing a hard time figureing out how to crush rivets with out a press (trigger gaurd)
i like the barrel press idea |
|
Thanks for the information. Your rifle looks great. |
||
|
Before i had my press, I used a piece of barstock steel, drilled a couple dimples (use yur trigger guard as a template). these dimples will support your rivets so they don't get flattened. I then used a big ass flat punch and big assed hammer and carefully pounded them flat. good luck, caspian |
|
|
the problem im haveing is im useing a 100% receiver and i cant get a straight wack on the rivets, any suggestions?
|
|
I had one where i put the center post in prior to the trigger guard. I could still wack them in with a hammer/punch, but it took some lining up and a lot more time. Your only other real option is to remove the factory post, install your trigger guard and then put in an "aftermarket" post and rivet. I think the removal process would be the biggest time taker. good luck, caspian |
|
|
This is one of the best build threads I've seen in a long time. Thanks for posting it. I know constantly stopping and taking pics is a PITA.
Galland |
|
shit, you guys are making me blush. It's kinda lacking now that i look at it. i left out a few things that may help a nubie. Things i can think of that i skipped include: Demilling spacing the front trunion Locating the trunion holes More detail on the long rivets Making your own centerpost If there is anything you want more detail of, now's the time to mention it. I can take more detailed pictures while i'm actually doing it. I'll edit this and add to it some of the steps i skipped over as i do some of my other builds. The receivers/guns won't always be the same, but the info is universal so it'll be fine. I'll edit the heading when i have it 100% complete. Thanks for your interest, caspian |
|
|
I am speechless...thank you. Can this be posted as a permanent feature on the website?
|
|
this is a result of 3-4 weeks of searching ak.net, gunco, ak files, etc and saving/printing off any related build info. I then made a binder with the info organized into chapters so i could reference it while i was in the garage.
NONE of the ideas or techniques are things i came up with. I incorporated the methods for which i had tools. You'll recognize Socandymans trigger guard fixture, 555th jig, "Soup to nuts" heat treat brake fluid trick, etc. I only deserve credit for compiling it and snapping pictures. Anyway, if it is to become permanent, let me finalize it by adding more pictures and steps. Thanks, caspian |
|
Agreed, the screw method to pull the barrel into the trunion is worth tacking up if you ask me. Haven't seen that done yet but it's a great idea if you dont have a press or want to beat it with a ten pound hammer. |
|
|
No doubt. I have four builds sitting here just waiting for receivers. I have a press, but pulling the barrel in, I never thought of that. Nice. Now to go get some more hardware from the surplus store. |
||
|
One thing that i will put in my edited build directions will be the addition of some sort of bearing between the front nut and the barrel muzzle. see, when you twist the nut to tighten the barrel in, the spinning of the nut exerts force on the barrel slightly canting the barrel. You have to stop 1/2 way through and gently twist the barrel back into alignment. Using a bearing would prevent this. Caspian |
|
|
Caspian45, let me know when you are ready and I will add to this Instruction thread tacked up top. Good job, BTW.
Mike |
|
Thanks, Mike. I just ordered a 3 piece ball bearing for the barrel installation. It was $6.24. Well worth it since you won't have to use a crecent wrench to torque on the rear sight assembly. |
|
|
Great post, that threaded 1/4" rod trick is brilliant!
As I'm not an AK guy I gotta aks - are those flats purchased like that or do you have dies & jigs to punch the holes and make the dimples? |
|
So do you just let the fluid burn itself out or what? How much fluid do you put the parts in? |
|
|
update: I bought a thrust bearing hoping that the force of the twisting nut would not affect the barrel. it didn't work as planned. it didn't hurnt anything, but it certainly didn't cure the problem.
It's not a huge deal. Having the gas piston in place helps give you a sense of alignment. if th barrel twists a little, you gently twist it back with a crecent wrench on the gas block. key word there is gently to answer your question, the flats come with the holes and dimples. I let the brake fluid burn itself out. I covered the parts with the liquid. It burned for about 15 minutes. I slowly and gently poured mineral spirits on top of the break fluid before lighting the fluid. The mineral spirits acts will help get the break fluid started. the break fluid isn't very combustable. you won't be able to light it with a lighter or matches. I used the MAPP gas torch to get it started. Later caspian |
|
I have a question about this... If you have matchin part numbers, and you pushed the barrel out, riveted receiver and then pressed it back in and used the same barrel pin, does the headspacing need to be adjusted? It should end up what it was originally shouldnt it? Isn't there a drilled recess for the pin in the side of the barrel? The reason I ask is that I am trying to decide whether to go with rivets or screws for my first build... I think I can get away without worrying about head spacing if I have a matching kit and dont remove the barrel... but that means I can't use rivets in the barrel trunion. I guess if I can find a cheap go/no-go headspacing device it's a non-issue. I realize it's a good idea to check anyway... but how many of you haven't? -tom |
|
Matched number kits should headspace after barrel removal and installation. It is always a good idea to check headspace on any firearm before firing!!
How about some pics of the underfolder tunion hole fabrication. I have done it, would like to see how you did it. |
|
we'll do. i have to wait until i do my next build b/c i forgot to take pictures of that process. |
|
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.