I installed a new RRA two-stage trigger and uninstalled/reinstalled another one.  These triggers are on my WOA SPR upper rifles.  These are target/range uppers: NOT for personal defense.  IMHO, the standard AR15 trigger is perfect for personal defense: no need to reinvent the wheel.

I found that installing this trigger without modification/cleaning gives a slightly gritty, over 4.5 pound pull.  BUT, it appears to be a well-made, two stage trigger, and well worth the $75 I spent.

These are a few things I noted this evening.  I am not a gunsmith, just a laid off rocket scientist now turned fireman/paramedic.  I strongly caution anyone from messing with any trigger mechanism.

*  This is probably the most controversial modification I did.  The trigger spring, which comes with it, can be bent (per the 15 minute trigger job).  I got carried away with bending it (bent it too much), and it did not reset the trigger forward: not enough spring pressure.  So, I took some of the bend out.  Now, the first stage is much lighter than it was originally, and it still resets the trigger.  I also tried a light trigger spring, which BARELY reset the trigger.  The pull difference between these two springs was not enough to justify using the weaker spring.  I did not feel that the lighter spring was reliable.

*  The two-stage pins are oversized and snugly fit my Stag receivers.  I spun, by hand, the oversize pins in "0000" steel wool to smooth the finish.  I noticed that this helped inserting the pins (but not much) and smoothing the first stage trigger feel/pull.  Before this, it felt 'gritty'.  I also cleaned where the pin went through the trigger; this helps reduce the ‘gritty’ feel too.  If I had to guess, I believe that this ‘gritty’ feel is caused by the metal finish.

*  I did not modify the hammer spring.  This two-stage trigger mechanism is similar to the two-stage trigger mechanism of the M14/M1A and Garand.  (At least, it looks this way to me, from memory.)  When fired, the hammer is caught (first engagement).  When the trigger is released, the hammer moves to the second engagement.  To shoot again, the first engagement then pushes the hammer from the second engagement.  Thus, the trigger has two bearing surfaces.  (If I got this wrong, somebody please let me know.)  I applied NECO moly paste to both surfaces.  Trigger release VASTLY improved.  This is, by far, the best improvement to this trigger.  To be honest, the trigger would be fine with just adding moly paste or a high quality grease.

*  The hammer is much thinner and lighter than a standard AR hammer.  Thus, it has a pro and a con.  Pro: faster lock time.  Con: possible light primer strike…if NOT using a strong hammer spring.  Thus, I did not modify or experiment with the spring that came with it.  Based on how this trigger operates, I could not see an advantage of changing the hammer spring.

I tested the trigger for safety engagement, over and over again.  All worked well.  Since I did this work this evening, I have not test fired either trigger.  (How is that for stating the obvious?)

I shaved a measured half pound of trigger pull with the above methods.  IMHO, anything under 4 pounds trigger pull is getting questionable, unless I learn more about this system.  This is not a precision target rifle, and a 4 pound trigger pull is fine for how I plan to use them.  Once I get around shooting them, which could be weeks+++, I'll post on their performance, and any issues found.

cool thanks for the info
my experiance with my rra 2 stage is it was a little heavy and a tiney bit gritty but not enough to care. (smooth as a baby's butt compaired to my AK) one thing i did notice was after the 1500 round mark and some bump fireing, the trigger lightened up and is very smooth. imo the best thing you can do with it is just shoot it.

After 75 rounds, any creep or drag is gone.  Trigger release remains constant.  This is a fine trigger.