User Panel
Posted: 1/30/2006 10:52:04 AM EDT
I've been wanting a hardcase like a Pelican so I was checking this out... www.casesbypelican.com
I like the idea of the more rigid foam (closed cell Polyethylene?), but how hard is it to make the cutout in it? What's the best tool to use to make the cutout and not have jaggy edges so it looks all ghetto? So how about some pictures for cool ideas? I like this one for the cutouts in the lid for mags. But I like the shorter length of this one... I'd like to pick something up that can hold my scope V-match 16" AND my Glock and/or Kimber as well as mags for both. |
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i have the 1700 w/closed foam but have not cut it yet.
i do not think cutting the lid foam for mags/whatever will work well as it may scrape the opposite side... i'm thinking of just making 2 stacks of 2 mags in the middle layer. i'm also adding a glock 23 with 2 mags cutout.. |
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Is that the rigid foam? I'm curious... when you get the new foam are you going to just cut out the block for the pistol so you can swap them in and out depending on which pistol you want in there or are you going to re-cut the entire thing? |
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I don't know if that is considered the "rigid" foam or not. It's what came with the case and I am sure the replacment foam will be the same. I have to recut the entire thing because the top piece of foam is glued to the bottom piece. After you cut the foam, it moves around under the weight of the contents if you don't glue it to be bottom or base piece.
MadDog |
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Is it the same "softness" as the egg-crate foam (kind of floppy and when you pick up the whole piece)? |
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Anyone have any experience with the "pluck and pull" or whatever the prescored squares are called?
And what is another brand case. I saw one at a gunshow this weekend but I forget the name. |
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Pluck and pull is crap. Nothing will fit as well and it'll wear out if you actually use it. You probably saw a hardigg case.
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Funtogun, looks like the cases you have pictured have either both the rigid foam and the soft foam. Which one do you like better?
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The closed cell foam on the bottom pic is preferable because it will not hold moisture. The regular foam will be okay as long as you remember to keep it closed and not put wet or moist guns in without drying them. |
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As long as you do that and have a dessicant packet of some sort in the "soft" foam it shouldn't make much difference in terms of moisture. I'm wondering about if the rigid foam is just better for protection (shock absorbtion for scopes) as well as whether is last longer, is it easier to cut, and what not. I assume it does last long since the regular foam eventually would start to exhibit some wear, but I'm not sure about the rigid foam, if it somehow breaks down over time or something. |
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I prefer the rigid foam. The ANVIS and PEQ cases have the soft foam that is pre-cut. They work OK but are starting to show some wear and are starting to tear loose. The rigid foam in the PAQ case is holding up much better. I would like to find a place that sells just the rigid foam to replace the foam in the Pelican cases. |
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Anyone know where to purchase replacment "closed cell" rigid foam? I want to replace the foam in my Pelican 1700 and don't know where to get it. The only foam Pelican sells is more of the original soft stuff.
MadDog |
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I bought my replacement foam from www.efoamstore.com and was very pleased. I just measured the inside of my case and used their on-line order, and it was a perfect fit. I think it was around $30.00 or a little more for two pieces for my Pelican 1700. |
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Just make sure that you use Efoam's "hard" foam, I wouldn't want to use the softer versions.
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Good to know. I was thining about that today when I was imagining using the case for two different rifles depending on what I'm taking out that day. It would be cool to swap out cut-outs for a particular trip. Those cases aren't cheap enough to run around buying a new one for each gun I have... or at least I'm not rich enough to do it yet. |
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But what do you use to make the cutouts??hinking.gif
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I use a razor blade or a serrated bread knife! |
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I use an electric carving knife. |
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the two upper cases are regular foam while the lower case has closed cell foam. it resists oils and such much better. None of the cases picture further up in the thread are closed cell foam. If you don't have a freezer, leave them outside to freeze. Electric carving knives work well. Freezing is ideal because the back and forth sawing motion really mucks up the clean lines if it's not frozen. I've got a starlight double rifle case that is not closed cell and no matter how hard I tried, it turned out kinda shitty because I couldn't freeze it. I used a retractable razor knife with the break off sections. Even at 6" long it wasn't long enough. I had to saw up and down too much. A good cheap bread knife from the kitchen and bath store might be a good choice. |
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I'm wondering what a 1650 would be like for use as a "battle chest"... for dragging a small arms room worth to the range. I don't think an M4 would fit lengthwise an would probably have to be broke down, but I'm sure a case like that would have room for all kinds of other goodies...
Or would the depth be too difficult to work with... |
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These are pretty nice:
http://www.casesbypelican.com/pelican-m4-single.htm |
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i dont own one, yet. but i would look into storm cases.. |
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I thought I'd be happy with a couple of soft cases for my carbines until I say this thread.
Nice work guys. |
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No. The end result will look awful. Use the methods given here. Also, use white chalk to trace the outlines, then cut. Ink will bleed and frose you cut more than you want to. |
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I use a soft guitar 'gig bag' type case when I am just bringing the carbine out. Works great. |
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Tomster, did your case come with the "closed cell foam" or did you replace the stock foam? I need some new foam for my Pelican 1700 case and I would like to go with "closed cell" this time.
MadDog |
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