If you area Marine that served with the M16A2 service rifle you would know this sight setting.  

My question is; what company out there sells sights that adjust to this setting.  

It seems like the rifles coming out nowadays are bottomed out at 300.

You can adjust the sight yourself.   Flip up the small aperture and find the 1/16" allen wrench screw.  Loosen the screw a few turns but leave the wrench in the screw.  
Adjust the bottom of the elevation dial and tighten the screw.

I may have left something out but you can get all the details at Forrest's  Maryland AR Shooters web site.

Thanks, I'll look it up right now.

groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/improvedbattlesightzero.msnw

Quoted: groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/improvedbattlesightzero.msnw

Thanks for the link.

Semper Fi!

Quoted: You can adjust the sight yourself.   Flip up the small aperture and find the 1/16" allen wrench screw.  Loosen the screw a few turns but leave the wrench in the screw.   Adjust the bottom of the elevation dial and tighten the screw. I may have left something out but you can get all the details at Forrest's  Maryland AR Shooters web site.

Outstanding, thanks.  I never knew this could be done so easily.  You have saved me time.

I remember reading a message a while back advising units they had to reset the range drums on their new rifles because they came from the factory with 300 max depression on the rear sight.

It's not new.  I remember zeroing at that distance when I went to boot in the 80s.   From what I have read the Marine Corps stuck with the 36 meter zero because the M855 didn't reach optimal stabilization for the first 27 meters of flight, however I really don't think it would make all that much difference in those 2 meters.

Historically speaking, the 25 meter 8/3+1 method accomplished two important issues in our (USMC) M16A2 development program:
(1) it was a point-of-aim = point-of-impact method that was shown to be less confusing for the troops, i.e., hit where you are aiming versue the old (M16A1) offset method.
(2) made the Army happy because they had very many 25 meter ranges "in concrete" (and has so for many years) because that was how the M14 was zeroed.  I.e., 25 mters being a tenth of 250 meters (the M14's BZO) and divisable by 10 as in centimenters which were part of us being forced to learn the metric system.
From the charts above, one can see how little difference one method would have over another for military purposes.  That being aiming center of mass at ranges to 300-350 meters and striking a mansize target somewhere between the head and the feet at any range inbetween.  Then if you consider M855's inability to print consistant groupings for fine tuned "actual range" sight adjustments, it kind of becomes a wash.  (So longer range (36M or 50 yards) etc., address this ammo grouping issue)
Zero methods like the SANTOZ (sorry for spelling) at 50 meters make more sense for civilian applications.  Me, all mine are set dead-on at 100 with a -2.   Why?  Because I know to aim a little low at 50, and past 100 I will use the rear's elevation adjustments or just hold-over a little.  Besides, I am using 69 gr. match ammo that actually "groups,"not M855.
Most important element of all these short range zeroing methods is to then actually verify them at range, even if all you have is a 100 yard range, the charts above will help yo know how high you are suppoosed to be for a dead-on at a greater range.

All my A2 elevation wheels bottom out at the 300 setting.  This isn't a problem for me since I use the Army 300m zero on them (done from 25m, 8/3 +1).  

I actually shoot out to 300 yards fairly often, and I've always used that zero, so I know when I need to aim low.

I am glad that I asked this question.  In USMC boot camp I never thought of asking why we put on 8/3 -2.  Hell, we were all to scared to ask the drill instructors.  Real informative, something that I can put in my NCO tool box.  Thanks

tag

Quoted: tag

+1

Just as an FYI, a message came out a few months ago that the A4 and M4 elevation wheel was to be set to bottom out at 6/3-6 because the knob was in 1/2 MOA increments vice the 1 MOA increments on the A2.

I don't know if this is for the same configuration, the MDAR15 site recommended this for the 50/200 IBZ. I had 6 clicks between 3 & 4 so I went -4 clicks on my 6/3:
  "1. Sight should be at 8/3 -2 clicks, that is, all the way down, not up a click.  Please note removable handle sights are marked 6/3 (rather than 8/3); also some are in ‘half-clicks’ as well. There should be 3 clicks between 3 and 4 on the knob. If there are 6 clicks then the sight needs to be set at –4 clicks (instead of –2)."

ETA:sp

yep, i'm zeroed at 6/3-4