Hi all.  I've done searches on this but have come up empty.

My RRA's extraction has been a little weak lately with untold # of rounds downrange.  Probably 3K, I'd guess.  The empties are getting out, but they don't seem to be as energetic on ejection as previously.

I'd like to change the ejector spring and the extractor spring and that black (buffer?  Is that what it is??) that the extractor spring rides in/on.  I've seen a ton of pictures that show the parts but have not found the description of HOW to change them out.  

I did see a youtube video on it, but it did not show the guy actually changing the extractor spring - it only showed him having a heck of a time getting the new one back in, and no mention was made of that black plastic insert.

Can someone make me smart on the exact how to change both the ejector and extractor springs, what that black plastic insert is and whether or not it typically comes with the new spring?

Thanks

Mike

You need 1/16 roll pin punch; 3/32 pin punch and bolt ejector assembly tool.

Young Manufacturing ejector tool is best.
It positions bolt by one of it's lugs so that roll pin is in vertical orientation. Compress the ejector and use 1/16 roll pin punch to tap out the pin.

To assemble, use roll pin holder to start the pin in and then tap it home with roll pin punch. You may use small needle nose pliers if you don't have pin holders.




To remove extractor, compress the part of extractor where the spring is located with your fingers and push the pin out with 3/32 pin punch.
Pin is slip-fit and easy to remove.

The extractor springs do come with black inserts.
I recommend Colt ejector and extractor springs. You may purchase them from Specialized Armament.
Good quality and inexpensive roll pin punch is Mayhew (U.S. made).
Best is Snap-On, below

Brownell’s carries the young tool and one that is smaller and cheaper that works just as well.
The smaller tool looks like the front half of the young tool.

I used a vise, padded one side with strip of wood, and  a small socket to hold the ejector back, because its what I had availible when I needed it, with just a little caution/attention it worked fine. Being a mechanic I had the proper punches, extractor and ejector both are simple just like the above post makes it sound.

You can also push the extractor pin out with your firing pin if you don't have the right size punch.

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Try to never use your firing pin for a tool, this prevents damage.

Use the fp retaining pin to push out the extractor pin.

I have the Y/M tool which is convenient, but here's a guy the uses a C-clamp....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfDgF0txAlE

Or a toothpick or a bullet tip or a paperclip. The point is it's an easy slip fit and if the man doesn't have the right size punch (or is in the field and doesn't have one handy), there are lots of ways to safely remove it.

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I don't have any of the right tools mentioned above except a set of punches. Somehow I managed to get my extractor and ejector apart and back together without damaging anything. I did lose an ejector, though, and had to use a replacement. When I need to do it again I won't make the same mistake, and won't lose the ejector. The force with which it came out took me by surprise is all.

I wouldn't spend the money for a special jig. Roll pin punches would probably be a good idea. I'll get a set of those when I get a round tuit.

The extractor assembly is very easy to get out and apart. I do it as part of cleaning the bolt. Getting the pin back in is easy once you get the extractor lined up. That just takes a little wiggling.

That plastic thing that goes through the extractor spring - is that called the extractor spring buffer?  What is the purpose/function of this thing?  Is it necessary on an AR?

Thanks for all the information that everyone has taken the time to share!

Mike

I believe the best answer would be from AR manufacturer.

http://www.windhamweaponry.com/shopexd.asp?id=140

A #60 O-ring goes over the extractor spring and can be bought at your local hardware store for pennies.  When/if it wears out, just put in a new one.  Functions the same as the D-Fender Extraction thing.

Not needed for most applications if a quality spring and insert are used.
I just installed a BCM kit and that spring is stout.

The BCM Extractor Spring is so strong the Mil-Spec Crane O-Ring will probably not be needed, but it is included.
BCM

So the O-Ring is a Mil-Spec thing? I've wondered about it, as my Windham Weaponry MPC came with it, but none of the other makers' bolt diagrams show it. I bought a couple of extra bolt assemblies from other makers (WW doesn't have them in stock), and neither of them had the O-Ring. They only had the spring and insert.

That's a quote from the BCM catalog.
I don't know if there is a mil spec other than the O-ring should be of Viton

The most recent Tech Manual that I have (2005) does not show the O-ring, just the spring and insert.

Some full auto weapons reportedly can benefit from the O-ring.
Spring makers/vendors call it a Band-Aid for a weak/inferior spring.

All I can say that my BCM spring was so stout, I saw no need to add the included O-ring.
The weapon runs fine with out it.

When punching out the roll pin for the ejector, is it necessary to completely remove the roll pin?

Reason I ask is even with a set of roll pin punches, roll pins and I just do not get along.  I'd rather leave it at least partially in the hole if possible.  

Break, break, another day, another dogfight:

Whilst I'm changing these springs, is it a good idea to change out the original installed buffer spring with a new one?  What do you guys use as a gouge when deciding to change the buffer spring?  Is it length of the installed spring vs length of the new replacement spring?

Again, my thanks to all who have taken the time to respond to my info request.

Mike

As for the buffer spring it should measure between 11-3/4" and 13-1/2" for RIFLE.
And between 10-1/16" and 11-1/4" for CARBINE.

If it is shorter than the minimum it needs to be replaced. Do not stretch it if it's short, just replace it.

Holy moly this thread is stupid overcomplicated. Use either the firing pin or firing pin retaining pin to push out the only pin in on the extractor. From there things are painfully simple––what you need to replace will fall free.

If you buy quality you won't need the little black o-ring, but if it floats your boat it just goes over the spring and provides more tension.

If the above is too complicated, buy a new complete extractor and God help your soul.

It's not necessary to completely remove the roll pin.

Thank you, Mr Richard.  Your response was very helpful.