I was recently discussing AR reliability with someone and I thought I'd post the list of stuff we talked about and see if you guys can add anything else.

Obviously not all these things are required to have a reliable carbine but they are "product improvements" or maintenance tips that help make a carbine run very well.

Keep in mind that we were discussing a general purpose, chrome lined barreled carbine shooting a variety of 5.56 and .223 ammo.  Most of the same stuff can apply to mid-length and precision carbines as well.


GP Carbine Reliability Checklist

1. Get a barrel with 5.56 NATO chamber.

2. Choose a barrel with a chrome lined chamber and bore.  MP testing a plus!

3. Extended feed ramps, make sure the barrel extension and upper receiver match!

4. MPI bolt.

5. Shrouded and chrome lined bolt carrier.

6. Properly torqued and staked gas key.

7. Extra power extractor spring and or Defender/O-ring add-on.

8. Some type of H-buffer or rate reducer to increase bolt dwell time and enhanced extraction reliability.  *Maybe an issue with lighter loaded .223 ammo. Test, test test...

9. Quality fire control group.

10. Quality and buffer spring.

11. Use only quality USGI magazines(*see Mag FAQ) with USGI green or Magpul Enhanced followers.  Wolff mag springs are a plus.

12. Use good quality lube and lubricate your carbine properly for the environment it's being used in.

Please feel free to comment or add to the list.

A chrome bolt carrier should not be on the list.

Quoted: A chrome bolt carrier should not be on the list.

It's chrome lined bolt carrier not chromed.

Some of the bottom feaders omit chrome lining the mouth of the carrier where the bolt fits in.

I like the list, it should help out a few people.

looks like a good list to me

Good list. I would add HK SA80A2 mags to the approved list, and make a section for dealing with what ammo is reliable. I wouldn't say anything about terminal balistics though, that gets old fast. Jut no Wolf and no Olympic.

Good idea, Yo'.  

-I'd say M16 carrier, but the shrouded and chrome-lined forward portion are the key parts.  

-Properly attached (torqued, if not staked) M4 castle nut or receiver extension.

-Everything with threads except the barrel nut and receiver extension Loc-Tite'd.  

What about match parts?  A lot of guys use triggers, but I'd be hesitant to rely on anything that could spit set screws into my FCG.  

How about a minimal testing regime?  Even if I had a rifle built by a competent person to your specs, I'd still want some rounds through it.  500-1k rounds, including 4+ 30-round mag dumps.  

Great list, but I think these items should be allot higher on the priority list.

(1.) Keep your carbine very well lubed. If possible always try to keep the bolt/carrier wet with lube at all times. In classes I will give it a few quirts of lube during a reload/hydrate break if they get dry.
(2.) Reliable magazines: HK or USGI  
(3.) Wolff HD extractor spring/CRANE O-ring
(4.) H buffer in 14.5"-16" carbines, H2 buffer in 10.5"-11.5".
(5.) Keep a watchful eye on your extractor. If it becomes worn replace it.
(6.) Keep a watchful eye on your gas rings. Replace if they become damaged or worn.
(7.) Replace your bolt every 10,000 rounds at a minimum. I change mine out every 5,000 just to be safe.
(8.) Clean/lube your weapon after every range trip.

I follow these general rules and have never had a failure even shooting high round counts with 10.5" weapons. A good set-up with proper lubrication and preventative maintenance keeps them running like a champ. It means allot more than buying one brand of part over another. I have seen well built and maintained Mutts shoot like a dream and high priced Colts go tits up. Its up to you on how you maintain your weapon.

Quoted: GP Carbine Reliability Checklist 1. Get a barrel with 5.56 NATO chamber. 2. Choose a barrel with a chrome lined chamber and bore.  MP testing a plus! 3. Extended feed ramps, make sure the barrel extension and upper receiver match! 4. MPI bolt. 5. Shrouded and chrome lined bolt carrier. 6. Properly torqued and staked gas key. 7. Extra power extractor spring and or Defender/O-ring add-on. 8. Some type of H-buffer or rate reducer to increase bolt dwell time and enhanced extraction reliability.  *Maybe an issue with lighter loaded .223 ammo. Test, test test... 9. Quality fire control group. 10. Quality and buffer spring. 11. Use only quality USGI magazines(*see Mag FAQ) with USGI green or Magpul Enhanced followers.  Wolff mag springs are a plus. 12. Use good quality lube and lubricate your carbine properly for the environment it's being used in. Please feel free to comment or add to the list.

That's my list, and my guns run 100%.

Quoted: Great list, but I think these items should be allot higher on the priority list. (1.) Keep your carbine very well lubed. If possible always try to keep the bolt/carrier wet with lube at all times. In classes I will give it a few quirts of lube during a reload/hydrate break if they get dry. (6.) Clean your weapon after every range trip. I follow these general rules and have never had a failure even shooting high round counts with 10.5" weapons. A good set-up with proper lubrication and preventative maintenance keeps them running like a champ. It means allot more than buying one brand of part over another. I have seen well built and maintained Mutts shoot like a dream and high priced Colts go tits up. Its up to you on how you maintain your weapon.

Question -- What type of lube do you use?  If CLP, how long can you go between cleaning&lubing (step 6) and your next range outing (step 1)?  Can a safe queen that's been lubed sit in the safe for 4-6 weeks and go out and perform reliably or do the internals require a wipedown and lube re-application before heading out?  

If instead of CLP you use a grease (e.g., TW25B) or some other lube, do they hold up longer under storage and also when at the range?

Quoted: Quoted: Great list, but I think these items should be allot higher on the priority list. (1.) Keep your carbine very well lubed. If possible always try to keep the bolt/carrier wet with lube at all times. In classes I will give it a few quirts of lube during a reload/hydrate break if they get dry. (6.) Clean your weapon after every range trip. I follow these general rules and have never had a failure even shooting high round counts with 10.5" weapons. A good set-up with proper lubrication and preventative maintenance keeps them running like a champ. It means allot more than buying one brand of part over another. I have seen well built and maintained Mutts shoot like a dream and high priced Colts go tits up. Its up to you on how you maintain your weapon. Question -- What type of lube do you use?  If CLP, how long can you go between cleaning&lubing (step 6) and your next range outing (step 1)?  Can a safe queen that's been lubed sit in the safe for 4-6 weeks and go out and perform reliably or do the internals require a wipedown and lube re-application before heading out?   If instead of CLP you use a grease (e.g., TW25B) or some other lube, do they hold up longer under storage and also when at the range?

I currently use Break Free, but I have used CLP in the past. I only use Break Free now because it's what M4arc uses and we shoot/clean weapons together. It just makes things easier to use the same lube. I have never really noticed a difference between the two. Both seem to do a great job. I have never used any brand grease lubricant on an AR. I have used the Wilson labeled grease on my 1911. It worked great, but I only used it on the frame/slide fit.

I suggest you clean and properly lubricate your weapon after every range trip. If its clean but been sitting around for awhile, pull out the bolt/carrier and charging handle. Do not disassemble the bolt/carrier just relube it. Squirt some down into the bolt and get the carrier wet again. Now get the charging handle nice and wet again. Now pour some lube down on the trigger group to get it wet. Reassemble your weapon and do a few dry fires safely and rack the charging handle a few times to make sure the lube gets distributed properly. Wipe off the excess that it now oozing out of your weapon. If your weapon was cleaned and properly lubed before it went in the safe you should be good to go.  

can you type next to each number on the list as to who makes that particular part in top quality.hy.gif. And maybe where to get it for the best price.

without revealing industry secrets or proprietary parts and tricks, what exactly does Mr Elmore @ SAW use in his "High Reliability Enhancement"?

IIRC, it includes some gas system work, but not sure what/how/etc. and what else.

Quoted: without revealing industry secrets or proprietary parts and tricks, what exactly does Mr Elmore @ SAW use in his "High Reliability Enhancement"? IIRC, it includes some gas system work, but not sure what/how/etc. and what else.

I can't tell you exactly what he does, but I think its O-rings, stakeing the carrier key, adding an H buffer, mostly stuff like that.  

Quoted: I currently use Break Free, but I have used CLP in the past.

CLP is Break Free ..........................(CLP = Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant)

Quoted: Quoted: I currently use Break Free, but I have used CLP in the past. CLP is Break Free ..........................(CLP = Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant)

Thank God we have you to point out my error.

I was thinking of my old cleaner, lube, and protectant.

I never refer to Break Free as CLP for some reason. I always just say "Break Free".

Thanks for all the input.

I didn't really make the list in order of priority but I'll edit it later and add also the HK mags to the approved list and the maintenance tips that VA_Dinger posted.

I'm not sure if I should do an ammo listing since the Ammo Oracle pretty much takes care of that issue.

I also recall seeing something about Ken Elmore's reliability work but I couldn't find it on the archive server.  If anyone can find it please post that info here.

I have a Colt 6921HB with the SAW reliability package.  

Enhanced feedramps - more than the standard M4 ramps.

Opened gas port & some other barrel/gas mods which appear to be secret/proprietary.

HD extractor spring.  No O ring.

HD disconnector and mag catch springs.

H2 buffer.

I use SAW HD magazine springs as well.

That fucker runs and runs.

Quoted: I have a Colt 6921HB with the SAW reliability package.   Enhanced feedramps - more than the standard M4 ramps. Opened gas port & some other barrel/gas mods which appear to be secret/proprietary. HD extractor spring.  No O ring. HD disconnector and mag catch springs. H2 buffer. I use SAW HD magazine springs as well. That fucker runs and runs.

Excellent, thanks Feedingcannibal!

I'd like to know more about what's exactly done for the gas system mods.

I just can't see whay something like this has to be super secret squirrel stuff...

Also on the feed ramps, I'm assuming they are getting dremeled and removing the anodizing from the receiver.  Is this correct?  If you don't mind could post a pic of the Elmore ramps?

IIRC, I also remember that Ken does something to the locking lugs on the bolt to relieve stress during the unlocking process.

keep from over lubing your rifle.

learn how to properly mantain your rifle.

Quoted: Quoted: I have a Colt 6921HB with the SAW reliability package.   Enhanced feedramps - more than the standard M4 ramps. Opened gas port & some other barrel/gas mods which appear to be secret/proprietary. HD extractor spring.  No O ring. HD disconnector and mag catch springs. H2 buffer. I use SAW HD magazine springs as well. That fucker runs and runs. Excellent, thanks Feedingcannibal! I'd like to know more about what's exactly done for the gas system mods. I just can't see whay something like this has to be super secret squirrel stuff... Also on the feed ramps, I'm assuming they are getting dremeled and removing the anodizing from the receiver.  Is this correct?  If you don't mind could post a pic of the Elmore ramps? IIRC, I also remember that Ken does something to the locking lugs on the bolt to relieve stress during the unlocking process.

RE: ramps - I don't have a picture handy but will try to get one up.  No, the anodizing is there - the SAW enhanced ramps are cuts made into the tops & sides of the locking lugs on the barrel extension.

The SAW website lists "other gas system modifications" or something to that effect, but Ken does offer to open the gas port under his gunsmithing section, so I'm just assuming that this is part of the reliability package (RP).

I used my own Colt bolt & carrier, Ken sent me the enhanced extractor spring (I purchased a complete upper sans bolt & carrier), so I'm assuming he does not do additional work to the bolt.

I'm also assuming that Ken keeps some of the reliability mods - such as the gas & barrel mods - secret so as to keep his market on the RP.  Makes sense.

The SAW RP is $150 (Colts only!).  That includes the H2 buffer.  I believe it was worth it.  My upper may have run just swell without it, but I look at it as insurance.  I use the best parts I can get.  The RP is icing on my AR cake.

Very interesting, so it sounds like Ken mods the feed ramps on the barrel extension.  Looking forward to seeing the pics!

What are the negatives to the Wylde chamber when using 5.56 ammo?

Quoted: -Everything with threads except the barrel nut and receiver extension Loc-Tite'd.

+1, I'd also make witness marks on any visible screws (mount, rear sight screw) so that you can verify they haven't shifted.

I wouldn't say it is 100% necessary; but if uber-reliability is the goal you need a pinned front sight base and not a set-screw front sight base. If you do use a high-quality set-screw FSB like the PRI, you need to make witness marks on the screws securing it.

Quoted: What are the negatives to the Wylde chamber when using 5.56 ammo?

I don't think there are any negatives other than the Wylde chamber is not available on the types of barrels I prefer.  If you can get it with the barrels you buy go for it.

Also on a chrome lined barrel how much difference would a Wylde chamber make over a 5.56 NATO chamber?

I can't think of anything else outside of your list other than to make sure and use quality ammo.  

If I had an FTE during a gun fight, I sure as hell wouldn't want the charging handle to break.
I've seen lots of broken charging handles, maybe the extra strength of the Gas-Buster with mil. latch might be worth mentioning.   It doesn't affect the weapon's reliability when shooting, but may be extra insurance for the times when you quickly slap the handle back.