Well, I wanted to do something more than stationary target shooting. Originally I tried to do a tram line moving target, but no joy.

However, after some thought I came up with these:

The base is pressure treated 2x4's. Initially I tried using screen door spring loaded hinges to get the targets to pop up, but they didn't have enuf horsepower.  The answer was in the black "garden gate" spring (see picture) , which made it pop up nicely. (I'd recommend simple hinges  - no springs- with the garden gate black spring.)

The target is stapled to 5/16 plywood upright. We cut the center out to lighten it. A string is attached to the upright from the base so the thing doesn't tear itself apart (the IDPA target also catches a fair amount of air, slightly slowing the action, but the black pring does a good job of getting it to pop up quickly.

A simple gate latch with a long cable actuator sets off the target.





I ended up with four pop ups total.

I also made some "swing down" targets. Nailed a 2x4 across 2 trees, made some target frames that I attached to the 2x4 with some eye hooks, and used a prop stick to hold the targets in the raised position.

Using the same type of cable actuator, the two targets "swing down" One is marked as a "no shoot" requiring some quick decisioning.

Cost for everything? About $100.

Cool.

Can you raise AND lower them (remotely) or is it a one time shot and then physically reset?

Quoted: Cool. Can you raise AND lower them (remotely) or is it a one time shot and then physically reset?

Manual resets.

The way we do it is set up an IDPA style course, with the drop downs and one pop up first, then run to cover.

Next we actuate pop ups in different order, and also have two stationary targets (one being a no shoot.

Each motion target has its own cable actuator that must be reset each time. We also rearrange the course, moving targets around while the shooters back is turned.

We use low round counts in each mag, to necessitate lots of mag changes. We also set the course to do weapons transition drills, from carbine to handgun.

Fun.

Hey man that is neat . Good on you for thinking outside the box .

"popped up" for first shift

Put your photo on them and sell them in the EE...you'll make MILLIONS!!!!!!!



Just kidding G-Man.
They're pretty cool.

Quoted: Put your photo on them and sell them in the EE...you'll make MILLIONS!!!!!!! Just kidding G-Man. They're pretty cool.

They cost about $25 to make.

They'd cost about $50 to ship.  

Alas, ANOTHER genius idea by me that won't make me a rich man.

Quoted: Quoted: Put your photo on them and sell them in the EE...you'll make MILLIONS!!!!!!! Just kidding G-Man. They're pretty cool. They cost about $25 to make. They'd cost about $50 to ship.   Alas, ANOTHER genius idea by me that won't make me a rich man.

GREAT!!!!
Now I have Fiddler on the Roof going through my brain!
THANKS!

Quoted: GREAT!!!! Now I have Fiddler on the Roof going through my brain! THANKS!

Never seen it...but sorry anyway.

oh so tagged.

Thanks for the pics!

They cost about $25 to make. They'd cost about $50 to ship.   Alas, ANOTHER genius idea by me that won't make me a rich man.

You don't want to ship them. Just sell the plans. Over the internet. Email plans to folks who pay. NO shipping cost.  List of materials, drawings, Tips and Hints. $9.99 per. You'll make more $$ in less time with less work.

there is no charge for this consultation

Before you start selling these things, give us a few minutes to figure it out.  Dumb question number one - did you connect the gate spring just as seen in the pic?  It looks like it would have a lot of angular twist on it.

Thanks,
jd1

Quoted: They cost about $25 to make. They'd cost about $50 to ship.   Alas, ANOTHER genius idea by me that won't make me a rich man. You don't want to ship them. Just sell the plans. Over the internet. Email plans to folks who pay. NO shipping cost.  List of materials, drawings, Tips and Hints. $9.99 per. You'll make more $$ in less time with less work. there is no charge for this consultation

just looking at the pics, you don't need plans to make something like that...

Pretty clever. Looks like a good winter project.

I just came up with a way to make these capable of being
somewhat reset.

What if in stead of the latch ,you attached some cheap
speaker wire A few inches up on the wooden frame of the stand up.

Then screw a pully down on the base ,near that rear support board.

Feed the wire through the pulley ,then under the target frame's front board,
and all the way back to behind or beside the shooters.

Tie a stick in the wire .
Feed this stick through a cinder block ,and turn it side ways to use as a holder.

When you want the target to pop up,turn the stick and let it go through
the cinder block.Do the reverse to reset.

All simple,CHEAP items to use.

Just leave extra wire on it to splice repairs for when someone shoots it.

This wouldn't be practical for rifles because the wire stretches,
but it would work for average pistol distances.


I've considered a similar set up ,using a small electric motor and a
remote control from radioshack for rifle range use.

Definite taggage!

I'm sure glad my club has a mover, tons of plates, poppers, barricades, spinners etc.

Quoted: I just came up with a way to make these capable of being somewhat reset. What if in stead of the latch ,you attached some cheap speaker wire A few inches up on the wooden frame of the stand up.

I'm using about 75 yards of 1/16th cable to "pop" the latch and activate the pop up.

Seems to work pretty good.

The next phase is to set up a steel plate that I can shoot at 200 yards. When the steel plate falls, it'll pull the cable which will activate the pop up.

Shoot the plate at 200 yards to activate teh pop up,  then get a head shot on the IDPA target.

Great idea Garandman!

Tag to build some for next Wed.

Can you show some detailed pics on the way you did the cable to latch to make certain the pop every time?  Did you just use a hook and eye?

Quoted: Can you show some detailed pics on the way you did the cable to latch to make certain the pop every time?  Did you just use a hook and eye?

Yup, just a hook and eye.

I looped the cable end, and put the loop in the bend of the hook. A light tug sets it off.