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Posted: 7/25/2005 7:29:02 PM EDT
[#1]
Just for you. I did a lot of looking and I did not like the Stack on stuff at all, Safes or Lockers.
I went with the cheap line that Browning makes but does not label as Browning. Still small but much stronger than the Stack's. Your idea of Quick-Crete is very poor. Yes it will absorb H20 but the fine powder that will come out every time you disturb the bag will ruin your weapons. Cement is very corrosive in its uncured state. If you feel the need to add pounds then go to a garage sale and buy a used weight-set cheap. 
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Posted: 7/25/2005 7:32:42 PM EDT
[#2]
I have a Stack-on safe. I'll get a pic for you soon...
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Posted: 7/25/2005 7:34:06 PM EDT
[#3]
Canon model 40. 1000 lbs.
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Posted: 7/25/2005 7:35:06 PM EDT
[#4]
Thanks ya'll, but i meant sentry
 I can get them from work at a discount. But I'd still love to see the stack on safe, I'm keeping my options open. As for the quickcrete, my friend gave me the idea and I was just wondering about it. I was originally going to get some 1/2 inch steel plate cut to the floor dimensions and have it cut down the middle so i could remove it. |
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Posted: 7/25/2005 7:35:29 PM EDT
[#5]
Hey Rolly, you got any ammo for those things?
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Posted: 7/25/2005 7:41:56 PM EDT
[#6]
Ummm not much. Not all those cans are ammo. One of them has parts and another has filled mags.
The rest are just ammo 
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Posted: 7/25/2005 7:43:57 PM EDT
[#7]
how vital is it to bolt the safe down? I don't think i'll be able to since I'm renting right now. Will a combined weight of 500lbs be enough?
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Posted: 7/25/2005 8:00:08 PM EDT
[#8]
The truth is this. A safe can be moved as easily as a refrigerator. What you are looking for is something to keep the average thief from getting your guns. Keep your mouth shut and don’t advertise you have guns is one of the safest ways to keep them. A thief who knows you have a safe will come prepared to get into or move it out via a dolly. Bolting it down just helps keep them from moving it forcing them to bring cutting tools.
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Posted: 7/25/2005 8:03:21 PM EDT
[#9]
I know, I don't like locals knowing what I have. And there is usually someone always at our house since 6 people live here. I just want something to stop someone from taking my guns during a smash and grab. |
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Posted: 7/25/2005 8:06:25 PM EDT
[#10]
i've got an armor vault(locally built here in OKc,Ok) , i bought the mdl 705, it weighs500lbs (empty) it's made completely out of 1/4" steel, i got mine through bolted (4-1/2" gr 8 bolts/nuts)to the floor with 3"x 3/8" flat strap on the underside of the floor
bear safe (also local here) also builds safes sorry ,i haven't figured out posting pic here yet 
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Posted: 7/25/2005 8:13:19 PM EDT
[#11]
This will happen if your get a safe too small: (Browning Pro-steel)
 Here is what a tragic boating accident can do to a big safe: (Brown Safe)  
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Posted: 7/25/2005 8:16:34 PM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 7/25/2005 8:29:05 PM EDT
[#13]
Wow, you guys just made me feel bad that I keep mine in the "cool" green hard case that came with it under my bed.............with a trigger lock of cource.
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Posted: 7/25/2005 8:49:42 PM EDT
[#14]
Well then most any safe not locker will work under that circumstance. |
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Posted: 7/25/2005 8:52:51 PM EDT
[#15]
Ok I have heard of this boating accident thing. What is the Joke? Call me dumb but I am lost. If this is not a joke sorry. |
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Posted: 7/25/2005 9:16:02 PM EDT
[#16]
Here's mine ( BB - before Boating of course)
The overflow ( Not Pictured ) is strategically stashed around my apartment using the 2 step rule .  Which is at least better then what I was using when I first moved in .  The saddest part is that I do own a Fort Knox 42 gun unit , but it lives in what used to be my office at the Ex wife’s house . It's awaiting my move to a larger more permanent residence , but I just couldn't live without a few bare essentials around me  |
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Posted: 7/25/2005 9:18:33 PM EDT
[#17]
I don't have photos but I'm extremely happy with my Champion safe. They had the best fire rating I could find (with a real explanation about how their test was conducted) and I figure losing guns in a house fire is much more likely than losing them to a thief. On the security side, though, they were the only safe I could find that have locking bolts on all four sides of the door...most don't have them on the bottom.
The purpose of bolting them down is to keep a thief from turning a safe on it's side and getting a better angle of attack. Sides are usually made of a thinner gauge steel than the doors, and if you ask around very much you'll probably find someone who's safe was tipped over and hacked into with an axe. That's a little too easy as far as I'm concerned. |
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Posted: 7/25/2005 9:24:34 PM EDT
[#18]
The first time I read it was in a thread about gun confiscation. If anyone ever asks you what kind of guns you have, you tell them you lost them in a boating accident. |
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Posted: 7/25/2005 9:37:39 PM EDT
[#19]
Do they make those "gun baskets" in Tactical Black?
My house was broken into one time. The pricks beat my safe w/ hammers an axle from my race car, heated the hinges w/a propane torch, pryed on the door w/a 4 ft wrecking bar, and still didn't get in. The dial and handle were completely flat w/the face.Then they flipped it on it's face.he |
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Posted: 7/25/2005 9:41:08 PM EDT
[#20]
The laundry basket photo looks like what the news would show after a raid on a local drug house. LOL
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Posted: 7/25/2005 11:19:41 PM EDT
[#21]
I have a Custom Ft Knox 7241 "Yeager" Sorry now pics of it that can go on the web right now
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Posted: 7/26/2005 4:14:06 AM EDT
[#22]
When are you going to buy yourself some magazines? 
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Posted: 7/26/2005 4:28:16 AM EDT
[#23]
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Posted: 7/26/2005 5:01:26 AM EDT
[#24]
Geeze, sir!
Don't you know that if you get too many Thompsons crammed together, they'll go critical and fuse into one giant Chau-chaut? You'd better get at least one out of there, STAT! .... I'll make sure it has a good home.
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Posted: 7/26/2005 6:58:42 AM EDT
[#25]
Holy $hit!
I think I need a cold shower now. |
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Posted: 7/26/2005 7:02:30 AM EDT
[#26]
don't mean to hijack this thread, but this is a legitimate question about safes (not lockers). For a safe weighing 500lbs or more is there a need to support your floors underneath? My home is just over four years old with pretty solid floors, but i am concerned that over time that the concentrated weight will cause the floors to sag. Is this a legitimate concern?
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Posted: 7/26/2005 7:18:55 AM EDT
[#27]
Put it in the basement, against an interior wall...bolted down.
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Posted: 7/26/2005 7:21:44 AM EDT
[#28]
So it needs to rest on concrete? Safes can cause structural damage, if not immediately, then over time?
No basement...I guess it'll have to go in the garage  <---
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Posted: 7/26/2005 7:32:43 AM EDT
[#29]
Mine weighs about twice that and it's upstairs in an 8-year old house. Company that sold it to me has done bigger safes upstairs (I would recommend getting professionals to move the thing...after putting one ~500 lbs safe upstairs I'd never do another). I got comfortable after calculating the lbf/in2 load the thing would have- usually there's lots of area to spread the weight over. |
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Posted: 7/26/2005 8:07:38 AM EDT
[#30]
Thanks for the info. As long as the "footprint" is large enough the weight will be spread out. Now i gotta find one cosmetically challenged or used (12-1400 bucks is too steep for me). |
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Posted: 7/26/2005 9:02:02 AM EDT
[#31]
gezz |
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Posted: 7/26/2005 9:13:22 AM EDT
[#32]
I'm going to have to start bringing pic's to work or just putting them on my server in case of need.
I have a 1300lb American Security safe and I love it. I have it on my lower level and don't have it bolted to the wall. You aren't getting it open and I would have to think that all of the steel inside is even making it harder to move. I have internal lighting and also a "Golden Rod" dehumidifier in it. Mine is the BF7240 model pictured here.... American Security I wanted to get the largest one that would fit and I could afford so it would last as long as possible. Unfortunately, it's getting full. *sniff* By what you can afford and save a little extra if you have to. |
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Posted: 7/26/2005 9:21:16 AM EDT
[#33]
My Liberty Lincoln 23 is 800 lbs empty, and I have it on the first floor, above a basement. I placed it in a corner near one of the foundation walls, and no problem with weight. Imagine 4, 200 lb. guys standing in a small place in the middle of your living room. Wouldn't worry about them falling into the basement would you? No problem.
If you don't have a basement, and don't want it in the house, stick one on the slab in a corner of your garage. You can easily camouflage it by dropping one of those plastic garden shed things over it you can buy at Lowes or Home Depot. I think RubberMaid makes them. Although they're pretty, if you are going to put one in the basement, get the crinkle paint finish and get a bigger safe for the same dough you'd pay for the fancy auto paint finish you'd want upstairs. The price difference will easily get you into a bigger safe. Here's mine in the study. Lucky it just happened to match the walls. Made the wife happier with it. It's a lot fuller now. That was new. Added two shotties, a Springfield 1903, a Bushy, and a few more pistols since then. Did the rope light and momentary switch myself. http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/5318/safeclosed0kp.jpg http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/9611/safeopen4lh.jpg John |
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Posted: 7/26/2005 10:59:11 AM EDT
[#34]
it's not the matter of buying the most expensive I can afford, it's just that I have a very very limited amount of room since I'm living in a duplex while im in college. |
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Posted: 7/26/2005 11:06:54 AM EDT
[#35]
I've been looking at EBay where some of the companies (Cannon, liberty, wells fargo) have their cosmetically challenged safes for sale for around a third of what a "pretty" one costs. FYI, thats all. Still trying to find one local so I can save shipping charges (which run around 100 bucks).
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Posted: 7/26/2005 11:15:12 AM EDT
[#36]
I just started my collection so I recently purchased a Stack On locker for about $250 for now. It is the only thing I could find that was shallow enough to fit in the back of my closet. I'll get some pics tonight for you guys. The closet is the only place I could have it hidden. A full size safe would have to be in the dinning room. I though out of sight would be more secure than out in the open.
I do have bigger plan however. I am in the process of getting plans together for a new house. All outside walls will be constructed of insulated formed concreat. I plane on having a 16'x16' room in my basement with four concreat walls and a vault door similar to this one from Browning. http://www.browning.com/products/catalog/safes/images/16039581m.jpg |
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Posted: 7/26/2005 11:21:25 AM EDT
[#37]
+1 on Liberty safes.he
Funny how those cavernous safes fill up so fast and you are saying to yourself "Why didn't I buy a bigger safe?" |
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Posted: 7/26/2005 11:45:16 AM EDT
[#38]
now why did you have to go and show that??? that better not be yours...if it is, i already have a special entry team staged around your house *cough* i mean....lollipops and bunnies...
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Posted: 7/26/2005 11:50:48 AM EDT
[#39]
It's not his, that picture has been around here for awhile. |
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Posted: 7/26/2005 12:59:39 PM EDT
[#40]
Sorry if this is OT, but you guys who have the "rope" lighting that goes around the interior of the safe - how do you turn them on? Someone mentioned a momentary switch. Is there a push button somewhere?
I see some have gone with the ceiling or shelf mounted variety, but my safe is so full, I don't think those will fit.
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Posted: 7/26/2005 1:19:09 PM EDT
[#41]
tag
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Posted: 7/26/2005 1:21:21 PM EDT
[#42]
Mount a ground side switch like the ones in your car. When you open the door the circuit is closed and the lights turn on and when you close it the light turns off.
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Posted: 7/26/2005 8:31:31 PM EDT
[#43]
The key to doing this properly is not starting a fire or getting yourself killed. |
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Posted: 7/26/2005 9:47:21 PM EDT
[#44]
Here's the one that I have. Picked it up at wal-mart about a year ago. Was around $550.00 rated at 24 guns I think, with electronic lock and it is fire rated. I bought a 14 gun sentry originally and quickly outgrew it. If your looking for a safe... Plan for the future...
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Posted: 7/27/2005 8:49:03 AM EDT
[#45]
Mine is a Fort Knox. I got the biggest model (without the frills) that would fit down the stairs to my basement. I even had to take the trim off the door frame to get it to fit. Delivery cost was high but I can't imagine trying to move it myself. It ain't going anywhere! I like the Fort Knox warranty against fire, theft, lock malfunction etc...
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-7/1053219/safe.jpg |
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Posted: 7/27/2005 6:05:27 PM EDT
[#46]
I have the Sentry, it's a good safe:
http://www.fbody.com/members/shocktrp/a001.JPG http://www.fbody.com/members/shocktrp/a002.JPG Copy & paste links. |
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Posted: 7/27/2005 6:22:09 PM EDT
[#47]
Somebody emailed me for the rope lighting instructions on the safe photo I posted above. Here they are. . .
------------- I got the rope lighting at Home Depot or Lowes, can't remember. It's easy to find. I think it was a 12-foot section and not too expensive. Around $15 if my memory serves. I bought the momentary switch from the safe dealer. You can order the safe with interior lighting, so they have these in stock, because the customer often wants that installed in a safe on their showroom floor. You could also go to the Liberty website and call them. Also cheap. See where they mount the momentary switch in a model at the showroom. Mine is on the right at the bottom of the door frame. There isn't much metal to drill through, so you may end up with an open ended "C" shaped hole instead of a fully encircled hole, but don't worry about that. The switch is threaded with a nut on it and it will stay put in a C shaped hole. There is a hole in the rear of the safe for electrics like a golden rod. Drill through the wallboard from that hole. I snipped the plug end off an extension cord and ran it out because I thought I might wan another item in there like a golden rod. I bought a cheap clip-on plug to put on the end that came out of the safe. The rope lighting is just sort of stuck behind the shelving corners, carefully, but the only clip on it is at the top where I used a few large bent paper clips to hang it up into the drywall. The sides just hang free and are stuck behind the shelves. Wire the momentary switch into one part of the cord from the rope light and use electrical tape on the splice. Leave the extra cord under the floor flip lid thingy that covers the mounting bolt hole. Done. Took about an hour. Works great and the safe is much more usable with the light inside. Good luck! |
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Posted: 7/28/2005 7:57:33 AM EDT
[#48]
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Posted: 7/28/2005 8:59:19 AM EDT
[#49]
...Nice to meet you, Mr. Vice-President! Sheep |
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Posted: 7/28/2005 5:45:37 PM EDT
[#50]
I have a 14 gun sentry safe that I bought at Home Depot that looks almost the same as the one they sell at walmart.com. www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp?product_id=3207152&cat=136315&type=21&dept=4125&path=0%3A4125%3A4155%3A136315
It looks just like the safe above, but it has a lockable metal box in the upper left corner of the top shelf. It is very good for what it costs, and I have it for a similar purpose that you want the safe for. I want to prevent the smash, grab and go theft. I know that if a thief is serious about stealing it, they will find a way to crack the safe anyways. |
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