Garage cable came off and now my garage door is /. DIY? (PICS)

Site Notices

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Garage cable came off and now my garage door is /. DIY? (PICS)

Posted: 7/31/2011 12:27:32 AM EDT

The cable came off one side and is hanging. The end piece came out of the spool. It isn't broken, nor is the big dangerous spring in the center broken.

My door is about 3 inches cattywhompous.

Is this a DIY, or should I call a garage door guy?

Posted: 7/31/2011 12:35:08 AM EDT

[#1]

Spring broke on mine. It's a slightly involved/dangerous DIY, spring under tension and heavy doors, bit doable. If you look at it and don't feel comfortable, call someone. Parts are at lowes or home depot, plus real hw stores.

Posted: 7/31/2011 12:46:19 AM EDT

[#2]

Quoted:
Spring broke on mine. It's a slightly involved/dangerous DIY, spring under tension and heavy doors, bit doable. If you look at it and don't feel comfortable, call someone. Parts are at lowes or home depot, plus real hw stores.

This, I did it after going to HD and getting the parts I needed. Getting proper spring tension aftewards can be a biatch.

Posted: 7/31/2011 2:30:12 AM EDT

[#3]

Post a picture of it.

Posted: 7/31/2011 2:53:12 AM EDT

[#4]

Quoted:

Post a picture of it.

Notice left side is higher than ride side.

I suppose it is because this cable (left side) has tension

But this one came off the spool on the right side. Notice it still has the metal keeper piece on the end.

This lower roller also needs to go back into the track.

Posted: 7/31/2011 3:04:12 AM EDT

[#5]

Get 2 pieces of rebar that fit the holes in the collar on the spring.
Take tension off the spring. Leave a piece of the rebar in the collar braced against the door to keep the tension off.
Put a Vise grip in the track so the door can't move.
Fix lower roller.
Loosen the drum that the cable goes on and reattach the cable and tighten the drum back where it was.
Remove Vise grip.
Carefully release the tension on the spring.
You may have to readjust the spring tension on that side 1/4/turn at a time.
Done.

Posted: 7/31/2011 1:33:25 PM EDT

[#6]

Quoted:

Get 2 pieces of rebar that fit the holes in the collar on the spring.

Take tension off the spring. Leave a piece of the rebar in the collar braced against the door to keep the tension off.

Put a Vise grip in the track so the door can't move.

Fix lower roller.

Loosen the drum that the cable goes on and reattach the cable and tighten the drum back where it was.

Remove Vise grip.

Carefully release the tension on the spring.

You may have to readjust the spring tension on that side 1/4/turn at a time.

Done.

Could you define each step a bit more please?

Posted: 7/31/2011 1:35:27 PM EDT

[#7]

Call a pro, $~100-150. Well worth it when working with a dangerous spring under tension.

Posted: 7/31/2011 1:39:16 PM EDT

[#8]

Ditto, I turn in my man card and just call Overhead Door anytime I have an issue with the gargea door.

Posted: 7/31/2011 1:43:01 PM EDT

[#9]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Get 2 pieces of rebar that fit the holes in the collar on the spring.
Take tension off the spring. Leave a piece of the rebar in the collar braced against the door to keep the tension off.
Put a Vise grip in the track so the door can't move.
Fix lower roller.
Loosen the drum that the cable goes on and reattach the cable and tighten the drum back where it was.
Remove Vise grip.
Carefully release the tension on the spring.
You may have to readjust the spring tension on that side 1/4/turn at a time.
Done.

Could you define each step a bit more please?

There are multiple parts. Watch each one and understand what's going on before starting your work. If you're not sure about it, don't do it. I've done dozens of them, and I'm good at it. I don't like doing it, but I'm good at it nonetheless.

ETA: I know you're replacing the cables (do both sides while you're at it.) but this will tell you everything about the system.

Posted: 7/31/2011 1:43:25 PM EDT

[#10]

i vote board up and convert into man cave, make wife park outside

Posted: 7/31/2011 1:44:31 PM EDT

[#11]

If you have the funds ,call someone. Garage doors can be a pitmfa........

Posted: 7/31/2011 1:57:41 PM EDT

[#12]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Get 2 pieces of rebar that fit the holes in the collar on the spring.

Take tension off the spring. Leave a piece of the rebar in the collar braced against the door to keep the tension off.

Put a Vise grip in the track so the door can't move.

Fix lower roller.

Loosen the drum that the cable goes on and reattach the cable and tighten the drum back where it was.

Remove Vise grip.

Carefully release the tension on the spring.

You may have to readjust the spring tension on that side 1/4/turn at a time.

Done.

Could you define each step a bit more please?

There are multiple parts. Watch each one and understand what's going on before starting your work. If you're not sure about it, don't do it. I've done dozens of them, and I'm good at it. I don't like doing it, but I'm good at it nonetheless.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQR0KGgXgo
ETA: I know you're replacing the cables (do both sides while you're at it.) but this will tell you everything about the system.

Thanks for the link. Do I need to do the whole hog? All I need to do is put one cable back on. Nothing is broken.
I've been told I have to let the tension out of the spring all the way,

but,

I've also been told I just need to put a bar in the spring, release the bolt, let the barred spring rest against something and the cable spool bar will spin freely. Thus I don't need to let the tension all the way.

Posted: 7/31/2011 1:58:18 PM EDT

[#13]

Quoted:

If you have the funds ,call someone. Garage doors can be a pitmfa........

I have the funds, but I'd rather learn. I have rentals and it will save me money in the future.

Posted: 7/31/2011 2:00:57 PM EDT

[#14]

Call the pro, watch him, do it yourself next time.
My advice when dealing with anything under tension... whenever possible, relieve ALL tension before proceeding. Shit happens, it tends to hurt when dealing with things that move fast.

Posted: 7/31/2011 2:02:43 PM EDT

[#15]

Quoted:
The cable came off one side and is hanging. The end piece came out of the spool. It isn't broken, nor is the big dangerous spring in the center broken.

My door is about 3 inches cattywhompous.

Is this a DIY, or should I call a garage door guy?

I do everything myself. I had a 16' wooden door that this happened to.
Calling the garage door guy was the best money I had spent in a long time.
I dicked around with it for hours before calling. You probably will to.
What ever you use to wind that spring will take your hand off....

Good luck.

Posted: 7/31/2011 2:05:46 PM EDT

[#16]

My door has a spring on each side (2 total). Fairly easy to replace components if they break. Just lock the door up with a clamp or vice grip and remove broken components.

Posted: 7/31/2011 2:07:38 PM EDT

[#17]

Make sure your torquring bars are long enough to provide the leverage you need to make it easy to torque the spring and that they fit closely, read not sloppily in the holes. Make sure you use round smooth bars that fit. You'll find round rod in the miscellaneous metals aisle at the Home Depot or Lowes, if they don't offer precut pieces in the garage door aisle. Double check every set screw on the torsion bar, especially if you don't find a broken spring.

DIY Garage Door Torsion Spring Pt. 1

DIY Garage Door Torsion Spring Pt.2

DIY Garagr Door Torsion Spring Pt. 3

Posted: 7/31/2011 2:08:36 PM EDT

[#18]

Quoted:
My door has a spring on each side (2 total). Fairly easy to replace components if they break. Just lock the door up with a clamp or vice grip and remove broken components.

Sounds like you have the kind I have, much safer/easier to work on, because when all the way up and locked there's no tension. They're also designed to at least function with only one spring, which makes getting it up there to lock a lot easier. Still worth calling the pro the first time.

Posted: 7/31/2011 2:09:23 PM EDT

[#19]

Quoted:

Call a pro, $~100-150. Well worth it when working with a dangerous spring under tension.

+1

Posted: 7/31/2011 2:15:58 PM EDT

[#20]

Quoted:

Make sure your torquring bars are long enough to provide the leverage you need to make it easy to torque the spring and that they fit closely, read not sloppily in the holes. Make sure you use round smooth bars that fit. You'll find round rod in the miscellaneous metals aisle at the Home Depot or Lowes, if they don't offer precut pieces in the garage door aisle. Double check every set screw on the torsion bar, especially if you don't find a broken spring.

DIY Garage Door Torsion Spring Pt. 1

DIY Garage Door Torsion Spring Pt.2

DIY Garagr Door Torsion Spring Pt. 3

Yeah, I've talked with the guy at Lowes. He showed me the bars (I'm going to measure) and told me I need to take all the tension off the spring and be sure to count, because I will retension with the same amount of turns.

Thanks for the vids.

Posted: 7/31/2011 2:41:48 PM EDT

[#21]

You are better off hiring this out. The spring tension is a hazard.

However, if you don't and do it yourself, please post photos of your emergency room visit!

Posted: 7/31/2011 2:48:10 PM EDT

[#22]

Next door neighbor tried doing this himself. His arm was in a cast for quite some time afterwords.

Good luck.

Posted: 7/31/2011 3:12:43 PM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Make sure your torquring bars are long enough to provide the leverage you need to make it easy to torque the spring and that they fit closely, read not sloppily in the holes. Make sure you use round smooth bars that fit. You'll find round rod in the miscellaneous metals aisle at the Home Depot or Lowes, if they don't offer precut pieces in the garage door aisle. Double check every set screw on the torsion bar, especially if you don't find a broken spring.

DIY Garage Door Torsion Spring Pt. 1

DIY Garage Door Torsion Spring Pt.2

DIY Garagr Door Torsion Spring Pt. 3

Yeah, I've talked with the guy at Lowes. He showed me the bars (I'm going to measure) and told me I need to take all the tension off the spring and be sure to count, because I will retension with the same amount of turns.

Thanks for the vids.

You're welcome, a couple more things though.

Concerning the set screws, always make damn sure that you are turning the screw to tighten it, it is pretty easy to misjudge the direction when you are reaching for the screws that are around back of and underneath things. You never want to loosen anything when the springs have any tension in them.

When handling the torque bars always apply pressure to keep them in their holes until you have placed them against whatever they end up resting on and never allow yourself or anyone else to stand directly in line with the bars while torquring them. Do it from the side and always take the time to position your ladder to provide the most stable footing for the task at hand. Don't side load your ladder. Also, no sleeves, rings, watches or bracelets.

The danger exists when the tools are attached to the assembly. If the torsion gets away from you the spring will simply spin on the shaft and the resultant noise and vibration will only last a second and will probably warrant change of shorts, however, if there are bars or wrenches on it when it gets away they can and will smash body parts grab clothing, jewerly and or fling tools through thing inline with them.

Do not do not hurry, work without interruption, carefully, methodically, considering every move before you make it and you will be fine.

Posted: 7/31/2011 3:26:54 PM EDT

[#24]

If you can disconect the automatic opener and manhandle the door all the way up, it's a diy to respool the cable.

ETA: it's also a good way to lose a finger if you're not careful.

All that said, there is something out of alignment that caused it to come off the tracks, get a pro to service the door so it doesn't come off again when you're already five minutes late for your next WWII reenactment.

Posted: 7/31/2011 3:44:22 PM EDT

[#25]

Here is another member that fixed his. There is a lot of good information in this thread.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_139/1191329_Garage_door_spring_____.html

Posted: 7/31/2011 4:02:29 PM EDT

[#26]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Post a picture of it.

Notice left side is higher than ride side.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb171/sherrick13/IMG_9910.jpg

I suppose it is because this cable (left side) has tension

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb171/sherrick13/IMG_9911.jpg

But this one came off the spool on the right side. Notice it still has the metal keeper piece on the end.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb171/sherrick13/IMG_9912.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb171/sherrick13/IMG_9913.jpg

This lower roller also needs to go back into the track.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb171/sherrick13/IMG_9914.jpg

I have the same door. The EXACT same thing happened to me in 2008. Cable unraveled, wheels fell out of the track, one side of the door wouldn't close all the way, etc.

I don't remember exactly what I did to fix it, but at one point I called the installer and he came out to unscrew it. IIRC, one of the springs went bad, and that's where the trouble started. Along with the cable coming unwound on one side, the tracks on one side shifted and had to be readjusted because the wheels fell out otherwise.

I could fix the other stuff, but the bad spring and not having dealt with winding one before made me decide to call the installer guy.

Sherrick, as your unit ORM representative, if you do indeed attempt to do this yourself, all I ask is that you please wear proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) such as safety glasses and gloves. Those springs really do injure people. Just think it through first. Good luck.