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Posted: 7/25/2016 2:33:21 PM EDT
[#1]
Curios about this to. I use to level houses years ago when i was just out of high school (20+ years ago). Back then, i remember the owner telling people not to water there slabs because your only getting the outside edge. The ground expands on the outside but not under the slab which just makes it worse by adding more pressure to it. Kinda of like spraying water on your outside ac coils. It seems to work but causes more problems by clogging them up over time. Now it could have been his sales pitch to have that seep pipeing installed under the slab or something but always wondered if it helped or hurt for real.
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Posted: 7/25/2016 3:21:23 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Curios about this to. I use to level houses years ago when i was just out of high school (20+ years ago). Back then, i remember the owner telling people not to water there slabs because your only getting the outside edge. The ground expands on the outside but not under the slab which just makes it worse by adding more pressure to it. Kinda of like spraying water on your outside ac coils. It seems to work but causes more problems by clogging them up over time. Now it could have been his sales pitch to have that seep pipeing installed under the slab or something but always wondered if it helped or hurt for real. I allways was told the opposite because in the center of the slab the ground stays moist because it's not as easy to dry out like the edge can. So with that I was told to water the edge to keep it moist like the center. I really have no idea what the truth is. I guess a engineer would be the best person to ask. |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 4:01:48 PM EDT
[#3]
Our builder (new home, built in 2006...which I've since sold lol), told us as long as the grass was growing around the foundation, no issues. If you have it start dying, ground pulling back, it needs some water.
There was some concern as the years went by, saw some cracks in the corners of the home (drywall), some cracks in tile, couple small cracks in patio/front porch cement. But it's all normal, inspector had no issues. |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 4:22:48 PM EDT
[#4]
We run our sprinklers a couple of times a week and we have no issues. The ground near the slab is moist and not cracked and we have plenty of grass. Running your sprinklers once a week may not be enough in this heat so adding a soaker hose might be in order. If you were to bump up you sprinklers to twice or three times a week you should be good.
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Posted: 7/25/2016 7:37:56 PM EDT
[#5]
I was on a jury back in the '80s. The case was about a slab that had sat unused for 3 years before a house was built on it. One thing I remember from the engineer that testified was that the ground can dry up to 3 feet from the edge of the slab. One way to prevent problems is to use a soaker hose. Another was to put something, sidewalk, gravel flower bed, etc. around the house so it extends the edge 3 feet from the slab. Most people just run a soaker hose around the slab. If the ground gets muddy turn it off until it dries, but it's hard to overwater with a soaker. |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 7:43:17 PM EDT
[#6]
Soaker hoses.
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Posted: 7/25/2016 9:31:39 PM EDT
[#7]
As far as damage to your home, it can make a difference. Some towns building code is adequate to cover your ass, depending on when and where your home was built. The tech available now could support a house on five gallon bucket of superbadassmicrostainless gel. I think Hi-Point
makes it. Either way, I would water a 3 foot space around your foundation to the point where it does not dry out to the point where there is a gap between the dirt, and your slab. That does not guarantee that you won't have slab problems. The clay/soil in Texas is not slab friendly. Good Luck. |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 9:34:02 PM EDT
[#8]
You should have enough water to keep the dirt around the foundation damp and semi soft, but not so much as to make a muddy slurry.
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Posted: 7/25/2016 9:34:30 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I allways was told the opposite because in the center of the slab the ground stays moist because it's not as easy to dry out like the edge can. So with that I was told to water the edge to keep it moist like the center. I really have no idea what the truth is. I guess a engineer would be the best person to ask. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Curios about this to. I use to level houses years ago when i was just out of high school (20+ years ago). Back then, i remember the owner telling people not to water there slabs because your only getting the outside edge. The ground expands on the outside but not under the slab which just makes it worse by adding more pressure to it. Kinda of like spraying water on your outside ac coils. It seems to work but causes more problems by clogging them up over time. Now it could have been his sales pitch to have that seep pipeing installed under the slab or something but always wondered if it helped or hurt for real. I allways was told the opposite because in the center of the slab the ground stays moist because it's not as easy to dry out like the edge can. So with that I was told to water the edge to keep it moist like the center. I really have no idea what the truth is. I guess a engineer would be the best person to ask. Bingo. Bring your checkbook. |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 9:58:45 PM EDT
[#10]
You need to change your settings and water more often. Mine is set to run 8 minutes per zone every other day.
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Posted: 7/25/2016 11:01:55 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You need to change your settings and water more often. Mine is set to run 8 minutes per zone every other day. Do you really get enough water with just 8 minutes? I can certainly water for less time more often.... I know things are good right now, the house was built in 2005...I had a good home inspection done, and the inspector checked the slab, mortar joints and bricks, and all the stuff insidea (cracks in walls, uneven floors, sticking doors, etc, etc...) I have good soil and grass along the exposed parts of the slab, not too much, not too little exposed... I just want to make sure I keep it all in good health.... Thanks for all the advice and suggestions |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 2:13:56 AM EDT
[#12]
You need to water turf heavily on e or twice a week, not lightly more often. The way to check is you want the soil moist 1" deep. The amount of time the zones run depend on what heads you are using. They do not all put out at the same rate and some are much less efficient than others. |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 1:20:03 PM EDT
[#13]
There are 2 different irrigation watering programs outlined for the north Texas soil by TEEX (Texas A&M Engineering Services) and TEES:
1. Irrigation for turf/grass management. Basically it is to water your grass until the soil is wet 6 inches deep. Then let the soil dry out until it stresses the turf (generally 5-10 days in Texas weather) and re-water to a moisture depth of 6 inches. http://publications.tamu.edu/TURF_LANDSCAPE/PUB_turf_Maintaining%20Bermudagrass%20Lawns.pdf 2. Irrigation for foundations. Basically, you don't want to see separation between the foundation and the soil around the foundation. https://dallas.tamu.edu/media/75260/protecting_foundations_under_dry_conditions.pdf To combine both into a singular irrigation plan TEEX said that if your grass is good, and you follow that irrigation regimine that you'll never have a problem with foundation moisture levels as that irrigation guidance is much more restrictive solely to keep catastrophic issues from occurring during a period of extended drought. |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 1:28:30 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There are 2 different irrigation watering programs outlined for the north Texas soil by TEEX (Texas A&M Engineering Services) and TEES: 1. Irrigation for turf/grass management. Basically it is to water your grass until the soil is wet 6 inches deep. Then let the soil dry out until it stresses the turf (generally 5-10 days in Texas weather) and re-water to a moisture depth of 6 inches. http://publications.tamu.edu/TURF_LANDSCAPE/PUB_turf_Maintaining%20Bermudagrass%20Lawns.pdf 2. Irrigation for foundations. Basically, you don't want to see separation between the foundation and the soil around the foundation. https://dallas.tamu.edu/media/75260/protecting_foundations_under_dry_conditions.pdf To combine both into a singular irrigation plan TEEX said that if your grass is good, and you follow that irrigation regimine that you'll never have a problem with foundation moisture levels as that irrigation guidance is much more restrictive solely to keep catastrophic issues from occurring during a period of extended drought. That's some good info there...thanks much for posting.... |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 1:37:05 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's some good info there...thanks much for posting.... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
There are 2 different irrigation watering programs outlined for the north Texas soil by TEEX (Texas A&M Engineering Services) and TEES: 1. Irrigation for turf/grass management. Basically it is to water your grass until the soil is wet 6 inches deep. Then let the soil dry out until it stresses the turf (generally 5-10 days in Texas weather) and re-water to a moisture depth of 6 inches. http://publications.tamu.edu/TURF_LANDSCAPE/PUB_turf_Maintaining%20Bermudagrass%20Lawns.pdf 2. Irrigation for foundations. Basically, you don't want to see separation between the foundation and the soil around the foundation. https://dallas.tamu.edu/media/75260/protecting_foundations_under_dry_conditions.pdf To combine both into a singular irrigation plan TEEX said that if your grass is good, and you follow that irrigation regimine that you'll never have a problem with foundation moisture levels as that irrigation guidance is much more restrictive solely to keep catastrophic issues from occurring during a period of extended drought. That's some good info there...thanks much for posting.... FYI, I follow TEEX's guidelines for irrigation for turf management and have the best damn lawn in the neighborhood only watering once a week. If we get a heavy rain, I skip that week's irrigation cycle as well. Dropped my water bill in the summer to near nothing. As for foundation issues I've never had seperation...but I do carry a foundation rider on my homeowner's policy with USAA just in case. |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 1:52:09 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
FYI, I follow TEEX's guidelines for irrigation for turf management and have the best damn lawn in the neighborhood only watering once a week. If we get a heavy rain, I skip that week's irrigation cycle as well. Dropped my water bill in the summer to near nothing. As for foundation issues I've never had seperation...but I do carry a foundation rider on my homeowner's policy with USAA just in case. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
There are 2 different irrigation watering programs outlined for the north Texas soil by TEEX (Texas A&M Engineering Services) and TEES: 1. Irrigation for turf/grass management. Basically it is to water your grass until the soil is wet 6 inches deep. Then let the soil dry out until it stresses the turf (generally 5-10 days in Texas weather) and re-water to a moisture depth of 6 inches. http://publications.tamu.edu/TURF_LANDSCAPE/PUB_turf_Maintaining%20Bermudagrass%20Lawns.pdf 2. Irrigation for foundations. Basically, you don't want to see separation between the foundation and the soil around the foundation. https://dallas.tamu.edu/media/75260/protecting_foundations_under_dry_conditions.pdf To combine both into a singular irrigation plan TEEX said that if your grass is good, and you follow that irrigation regimine that you'll never have a problem with foundation moisture levels as that irrigation guidance is much more restrictive solely to keep catastrophic issues from occurring during a period of extended drought. That's some good info there...thanks much for posting.... FYI, I follow TEEX's guidelines for irrigation for turf management and have the best damn lawn in the neighborhood only watering once a week. If we get a heavy rain, I skip that week's irrigation cycle as well. Dropped my water bill in the summer to near nothing. As for foundation issues I've never had seperation...but I do carry a foundation rider on my homeowner's policy with USAA just in case. Is that rider for foundation failure because of soil movement or is it only if another peril causes the damage? I thought USAA didn't cover regular foundation issues. |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 2:42:46 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is that rider for foundation failure because of soil movement or is it only if another peril causes the damage? I thought USAA didn't cover regular foundation issues. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
There are 2 different irrigation watering programs outlined for the north Texas soil by TEEX (Texas A&M Engineering Services) and TEES: 1. Irrigation for turf/grass management. Basically it is to water your grass until the soil is wet 6 inches deep. Then let the soil dry out until it stresses the turf (generally 5-10 days in Texas weather) and re-water to a moisture depth of 6 inches. http://publications.tamu.edu/TURF_LANDSCAPE/PUB_turf_Maintaining%20Bermudagrass%20Lawns.pdf 2. Irrigation for foundations. Basically, you don't want to see separation between the foundation and the soil around the foundation. https://dallas.tamu.edu/media/75260/protecting_foundations_under_dry_conditions.pdf To combine both into a singular irrigation plan TEEX said that if your grass is good, and you follow that irrigation regimine that you'll never have a problem with foundation moisture levels as that irrigation guidance is much more restrictive solely to keep catastrophic issues from occurring during a period of extended drought. That's some good info there...thanks much for posting.... FYI, I follow TEEX's guidelines for irrigation for turf management and have the best damn lawn in the neighborhood only watering once a week. If we get a heavy rain, I skip that week's irrigation cycle as well. Dropped my water bill in the summer to near nothing. As for foundation issues I've never had seperation...but I do carry a foundation rider on my homeowner's policy with USAA just in case. Is that rider for foundation failure because of soil movement or is it only if another peril causes the damage? I thought USAA didn't cover regular foundation issues. Soil movement is covered. Limited maximum reimbursement of $15,000 though (the max they would go). |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 3:20:53 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Our builder (new home, built in 2006...which I've since sold lol), told us as long as the grass was growing around the foundation, no issues. If you have it start dying, ground pulling back, it needs some water. <snip> This. If the ground starts to pull back away from the edge of the foundation, when it does rain, it lets water undercut the foundation. |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 4:04:59 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This. If the ground starts to pull back away from the edge of the foundation, when it does rain, it lets water undercut the foundation. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Our builder (new home, built in 2006...which I've since sold lol), told us as long as the grass was growing around the foundation, no issues. If you have it start dying, ground pulling back, it needs some water. <snip> This. If the ground starts to pull back away from the edge of the foundation, when it does rain, it lets water undercut the foundation. This...we water 2 times per week, 5 min/zone, 6 zones. If rain sensor is on then sprinklers stay off. |
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Posted: 7/26/2016 7:24:25 PM EDT
[#20]
Here's a detail for an irrigation system my firm designed for a friend that built a new house on very expansive soil. We followed the Texas A&M guidelines on foundation watering. We added a separate drip zone using two lines of Netafim Techline drip tubing, just for foundation irrigation, and installed a Baseline S100 soil moisture sensor. Once you dial in the percentage of moisture content in the soil, the system keeps that same percentage the majority of the time. The reason it doesn't keep it the same all the time is during a major rainfall event, the soil moisture percentage spikes.
Here's the detail. 
This was the soil moisture sensor used. http://www.baselinesystems.com/products.php/watertec-s100 |
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Posted: 7/27/2016 1:52:45 AM EDT
[#21]
I come from an outside land, is this just as issue with houses built on a slab?
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Posted: 7/27/2016 9:48:27 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I come from an outside land, is this just as issue with houses built on a slab? Slab foundations built on axpansive soil. It's terrible up in DFW, but my parents who have spent the last 35 years in San Antonio have never done any foundation watering and have not had any issues in 2 houses. |
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Posted: 7/27/2016 10:52:23 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I come from an outside land, is this just as issue with houses built on a slab? Not just a slab...any house on expansive soil (clay) will have the problem. Pier and beam however just have different issues. A slab will break. Pier and beam will shift warping walls, floors, causing doors/windows to stick and not close. Pier and beam is relatively easy to level out however once you get to that point. Once a slab is busted it is a HUGE deal and very costly to repair. |
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Posted: 7/27/2016 11:38:17 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not just a slab...any house on expansive soil (clay) will have the problem. Pier and beam however just have different issues. A slab will break. Pier and beam will shift warping walls, floors, causing doors/windows to stick and not close. Pier and beam is relatively easy to level out however once you get to that point. Once a slab is busted it is a HUGE deal and very costly to repair. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I come from an outside land, is this just as issue with houses built on a slab? Not just a slab...any house on expansive soil (clay) will have the problem. Pier and beam however just have different issues. A slab will break. Pier and beam will shift warping walls, floors, causing doors/windows to stick and not close. Pier and beam is relatively easy to level out however once you get to that point. Once a slab is busted it is a HUGE deal and very costly to repair. How do you tell what type you have? |
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Posted: 7/27/2016 1:01:06 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How do you tell what type you have? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I come from an outside land, is this just as issue with houses built on a slab? Not just a slab...any house on expansive soil (clay) will have the problem. Pier and beam however just have different issues. A slab will break. Pier and beam will shift warping walls, floors, causing doors/windows to stick and not close. Pier and beam is relatively easy to level out however once you get to that point. Once a slab is busted it is a HUGE deal and very costly to repair. How do you tell what type you have? On level ground, pier and beam is raised off the ground about 2-3 feet but slab is about 1 foot. Another way to know is to jump up and down on the floor, if your house starts to rattle then it is pier and beam. |
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Posted: 7/27/2016 3:18:55 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How do you tell what type you have? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I come from an outside land, is this just as issue with houses built on a slab? Not just a slab...any house on expansive soil (clay) will have the problem. Pier and beam however just have different issues. A slab will break. Pier and beam will shift warping walls, floors, causing doors/windows to stick and not close. Pier and beam is relatively easy to level out however once you get to that point. Once a slab is busted it is a HUGE deal and very costly to repair. How do you tell what type you have? Do you have a crawl space? |
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Posted: 7/27/2016 3:21:58 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you have a crawl space? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I come from an outside land, is this just as issue with houses built on a slab? Not just a slab...any house on expansive soil (clay) will have the problem. Pier and beam however just have different issues. A slab will break. Pier and beam will shift warping walls, floors, causing doors/windows to stick and not close. Pier and beam is relatively easy to level out however once you get to that point. Once a slab is busted it is a HUGE deal and very costly to repair. How do you tell what type you have? Do you have a crawl space? Nope, and based on ar15eric's post, its definitely slab..... Like I said, looking at it, the soils is good against the house, grass right up to slab, I will step up the watering to at least 2 or 3 times a week, and keep an eye on it... ETA Also from the sounds of it, I really only have to worry abut the sides....the back has a full length patio slab that extends a good 10-12' from the house, the front, the driveway, and plant beds...the sides really are just lawn to the slab.... |
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Posted: 7/27/2016 10:40:41 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nope, and based on ar15eric's post, its definitely slab..... Like I said, looking at it, the soils is good against the house, grass right up to slab, I will step up the watering to at least 2 or 3 times a week, and keep an eye on it... ETA Also from the sounds of it, I really only have to worry abut the sides....the back has a full length patio slab that extends a good 10-12' from the house, the front, the driveway, and plant beds...the sides really are just lawn to the slab.... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I come from an outside land, is this just as issue with houses built on a slab? Not just a slab...any house on expansive soil (clay) will have the problem. Pier and beam however just have different issues. A slab will break. Pier and beam will shift warping walls, floors, causing doors/windows to stick and not close. Pier and beam is relatively easy to level out however once you get to that point. Once a slab is busted it is a HUGE deal and very costly to repair. How do you tell what type you have? Do you have a crawl space? Nope, and based on ar15eric's post, its definitely slab..... Like I said, looking at it, the soils is good against the house, grass right up to slab, I will step up the watering to at least 2 or 3 times a week, and keep an eye on it... ETA Also from the sounds of it, I really only have to worry abut the sides....the back has a full length patio slab that extends a good 10-12' from the house, the front, the driveway, and plant beds...the sides really are just lawn to the slab.... Umm...you know that driveway and patio are concrete slabs too right? They will break just like a house foundation if the moisture isn't maintained. |
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Posted: 7/28/2016 1:53:04 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not just a slab...any house on expansive soil (clay) will have the problem. Pier and beam however just have different issues. A slab will break. Pier and beam will shift warping walls, floors, causing doors/windows to stick and not close. Pier and beam is relatively easy to level out however once you get to that point. Once a slab is busted it is a HUGE deal and very costly to repair. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I come from an outside land, is this just as issue with houses built on a slab? Not just a slab...any house on expansive soil (clay) will have the problem. Pier and beam however just have different issues. A slab will break. Pier and beam will shift warping walls, floors, causing doors/windows to stick and not close. Pier and beam is relatively easy to level out however once you get to that point. Once a slab is busted it is a HUGE deal and very costly to repair. Thanks. We're in my wife's grandparents old house (from the early 60s) and it has had shifting issues long before my wife moved it ten years ago. It's something we'll have to deal with when we have the money. |
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Posted: 7/28/2016 11:40:02 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Umm...you know that driveway and patio are concrete slabs too right? They will break just like a house foundation if the moisture isn't maintained. Yes, but I was kind of alluding to this post by Pepperbelly.... "I was on a jury back in the '80s. The case was about a slab that had sat unused for 3 years before a house was built on it. One thing I remember from the engineer that testified was that the ground can dry up to 3 feet from the edge of the slab. One way to prevent problems is to use a soaker hose. Another was to put something, sidewalk, gravel flower bed, etc. around the house so it extends the edge 3 feet from the slab. Most people just run a soaker hose around the slab. If the ground gets muddy turn it off until it dries, but it's hard to overwater with a soaker." From that I take it the actual foundation slab should be protected in those areas....Its not that I do not want to protect the porch and driveway slabs, but if the above is true, I don't have to worry so much about the actual house slab in those areas...there'd be no real way of watering those areas in any case.... |
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Posted: 7/28/2016 8:32:24 PM EDT
[#31]
Soaker hoses around the foundation have always worked on our properties.
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Posted: 8/1/2016 4:40:07 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, but I was kind of alluding to this post by Pepperbelly.... "I was on a jury back in the '80s. The case was about a slab that had sat unused for 3 years before a house was built on it. One thing I remember from the engineer that testified was that the ground can dry up to 3 feet from the edge of the slab. One way to prevent problems is to use a soaker hose. Another was to put something, sidewalk, gravel flower bed, etc. around the house so it extends the edge 3 feet from the slab. Most people just run a soaker hose around the slab. If the ground gets muddy turn it off until it dries, but it's hard to overwater with a soaker." From that I take it the actual foundation slab should be protected in those areas....Its not that I do not want to protect the porch and driveway slabs, but if the above is true, I don't have to worry so much about the actual house slab in those areas...there'd be no real way of watering those areas in any case.... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Umm...you know that driveway and patio are concrete slabs too right? They will break just like a house foundation if the moisture isn't maintained. Yes, but I was kind of alluding to this post by Pepperbelly.... "I was on a jury back in the '80s. The case was about a slab that had sat unused for 3 years before a house was built on it. One thing I remember from the engineer that testified was that the ground can dry up to 3 feet from the edge of the slab. One way to prevent problems is to use a soaker hose. Another was to put something, sidewalk, gravel flower bed, etc. around the house so it extends the edge 3 feet from the slab. Most people just run a soaker hose around the slab. If the ground gets muddy turn it off until it dries, but it's hard to overwater with a soaker." From that I take it the actual foundation slab should be protected in those areas....Its not that I do not want to protect the porch and driveway slabs, but if the above is true, I don't have to worry so much about the actual house slab in those areas...there'd be no real way of watering those areas in any case.... I was curious about how sidewalks and patios affected the slab. Thanks |
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