I need the COP's and plugs changed on my 02 F150 4.6L, I'll provide parts based on your recommendation. I need someone that is either certified Ford or an ASE Ford 4.6L engine guru. I know what it would cost to have a shop do it, and would be willing to offer a more than fair amount for this work, this way 100% goes in your pocket. Not looking for the part time, I think I can shadetree mechanic. I would like a "Done this enough to do it in the dark, while riding a tricycle, eating a burger, and copulating with a starlet". In other words, you're damn good at your job. We would arrange something like a if you screw it up, you fix it repair. That way it rules out the "I think I can" types. This is merely preventative maintenance as it just hit 100,000 miles, as there are zero problems with this vehicle. You do this job right, and I have another on an 01 Lincoln Town Car with the same engine, under 75K miles. I'm about to buy a new vehicle, and this truck will go to my son.

Thank you.

It's a relatively easy and cheap job. Why don't you just take it to a shop? And what do you think is a fair amount?



I wouldn't take it on outside of business though because (while I'm sure it isn't the case with you) it sounds like the kind of setup we get all the time. "Can you do simple job X and PROMISE nothing will go wrong, and that you will fix it if it does?" Those are usually people with a known problem they are hiding and trying to pawn off on green service folks.





My free advice is that if you have any misfire P030x codes, replace the coil for that cylinder as well. Notorious failure rate. Would change the plug boots as well. Make sure you get the right ones, as there are 2 styles available.

 

Why even post in this thread if you aren't someone that even knows what it costs, let alone how to do it. I don't want your free advice, if I cannot find someone here that would like the work, I'll take it in and spend the money. I'd like to help out a like minded individual.


No problems with the vehicle. It's a maintenance thing, it is due and needs to be done. Typical shop is over $900.00 for the job, so yes I'd rather give the money to an AR15.com member that does this for a living, outside of his place of employment, mechanics do it all of the time.

Any mechanic worth his salt would check the vehicle first, and have proof that there are no problems. I shouldn't be responsible if they break a plug and don't have the skill to get it out. Hence the you break it clause, I think it's quite reasonable to expect that level of competence.

I'm not a mechanic, but you sound like a dick.

Maybe I am, I just don't take kindly to the inference that he made. He basically used an analogy to call me a liar, and I would try to hem someone up. If that makes me a dick than I'll take the title. You coming in this thread with nothing to contribute, because you aren't a mechanic makes you nothing but a troll, and COC prevents me from using the word I'd like. I don't think I went above and beyond in my post that would warrant that post, I was just asking for a professional to do what they are capable of. It's not like I was asking for something for free, or pay cheap wages for the work I'd like done. I thought it would be cool if i could put the money in the pocket of someone in the community. Obviously the trolls are out, and have no business shitting in this thread.

I knew it.

you are about $200 high

The lowest was $750.00 the highest was a little over 1K.

Holly hell 900 for cop's and plugs
I do them all the time no where near that much

ETA: YOUR ENGINE IS A 2V 4.6 not a 3v which are the ones that snap the plugs in half when trying to get them out. Doing coils and plugs shouldn't be more than 600 buck and less than an hour

This.^^^^^
300 labor and whatever the plugs list for. OtT, you might have rubbed somebody wrong to get quoted so high The 3v plug breaker, I tell customers beforehand that each extraction will be an additional 0.5hrs. I take my time and get all 8 most every time, while a lot of other guys just rip them out and have to extract 3 or 4 every time. It's faster and pays better that way, but I believe in being honest and doing it right.






I am an ASE master tech and advanced level specialist with a boat load of Ford experience, you know, the kind of person you were seeking. I am not in your area, so I offered free advice in case you do get stuck with Shadetree Joe, and I gave a perspective that many techs would likely share and few customers would normally consider. It's called being a nice guy.
If I had reason to call you a liar, I would call you a liar.
/PurseSlingin'
 

On the 3v I shoot kroil into the cop holes let them soak and use an impact to pull them out replacing them with the updated plugs what method do you use I'm always thinking I'll pull the threads out hasn't happened yet tho

Canu: I like to run an induction/top engine cleaner first if the customer will approve it, then I use whatever throttle body cleaner or pb blaster and shoot a tsp into each hole. Turn them all, just until they "crack" loose. Let it sit 30 minutes. Bump the ratchet as long as they creak, reverse quarter turn if they stop. Only the nastiest overdue ones don't surrender.
 



I've known guys that do the impact thing too. It probably bumps them the same way and works, but I just can't wrap my mind around gunning out a plug

I use the same method that StealthCRF uses other than the cleaning. I feel the same way about using an impact to remove them. I was also told not to use anti-seize when replacing the plugs by one Ford tech and to use copper based anti-seize by another. On the three valve engines the OTC broken plug removal tool is worth its weight in gold.

OP sounds like a douche, I'm a Ford tech and I wouldn't touch it.  

So you resorted to name calling because you didn't like that I stood up for myself. I'll take it in and have the work done by a competent professional, I thought it would be a good thing to give someone some work, where they can pocket the entire amount for their labor, but I didn't want to end up with someone that half-assed it and left me with a mess to fix. I guess that makes me a douche that I'd post in the Hometown forum, to give someone some honest work. The only douche's in here were the ones that assumed my standards were set too high for their sorry asses to achieve.

People post in the HTF for help with builds, and such all the time, it sucks that trolls decided to shit it this thread. I thought I could do someone a solid and put 4-5 bills in their pocket. Fuck that, I won't make that mistake again. It's disappointing to see that the Texas HTF seems to sit towards the bottom of the barrel compared to other the HTF's.



StealthCRF, re-read your post. You made it sound like I had some trouble with the engine. I never stated the engine was having problems. In fact it runs fine, but I know it is due to be done. Read your response, you made an accusation based on an assumption, instead of asking me a question, that's what pissed me off, you challenged my integrity with a veiled accusation.

I bought the Matco branded one about the same price I've used it like 2 times but it works like a charm

Most good techs i know stays away from people with this type of requests. Maybe its the way he worded things, but i would not take take this as a side job.

It's fine, I'd like to respectfully ask for this to be locked. By the looks of it, I'm not going to find a stand-up guy to do the work. So off to a shop, where they pay crap wages, for a job that would have likely made someone $100.00+ an hour.

Most good techs would practice due diligence and test drive the vehicle before agreeing to the job. Another person ASSUMING something, and questioning a persons integrity. You are some jaded people.

Locked On Request.