anyone know of a good companies that puts in radon mitigation system?

In the shakopee area

Bing Schming

I can personally recommend Radon Removal (952-476-6226)
http://www.fixradon.com

The trick is getting them to call you back. My recent experience has been that most of the contractors are only doing work for realtors right now. Apparently it's becoming a big issue with home inspections, etc. If you find someone good PLEASE post back here. I'm looking too..!

I am interdasted too

the last test I did said it was elevated, but inconclusive as I accidentally left it in basement an extra day...

was looking at this on youporn... I mean youtube, and it looks pretty straight forward cept the hole in slab drilling

might be able to rent that drill

levels are 4.0 to 4.8. dont know how worried i should be.

+1 go fix radon.  Figure $1500 or so if you have drain tile

and if i dont?



 

not sure. they have different approaches. They also need easy access to your roof from the basement to run the pipe. the  fixradon guy can explain it pretty well or find another service for multiple bids

from the vids I been watchin, if no drain tile, they simply drill 1+ holes in basement floor and dig it out somewhat and put in a 4-6" pipe (caulked)
add 24/7 inline fan and run it out the roof.  If not roof, then out side of house and up

honestly, was considering doing it myself

Anything over 4.0 is considered high and something that should be remedied. My ranges have gone between 2.0 in the summer and 6.0 in the winter. Anyone here hired a contractor yet?

Did you test in the Summer or Winter?  Levels in the Winter will likely be higher.

Is your basement finished or unfinished?  If it's unfinished and you are a little handy, you can do some things to reduce it on our own.  I contacted a company out of Alexandria a few years back that does Radon mitigation and was given some ideas to help reduce our levels before finishing our basement.

Get some good polyurethane caulk and seal any cracks in the floor and walls.  Also, caulk the seam where the slab meets the walls.  Larger openings such as floor drains and where the water pipe comes in can be filled with expanding foam.  I read that some of the latex waterproofing may help as well.  I used on the walls and some of the floor.

If you can get at the rim joists, put in a cold air dump.  This will help minimize the negative pressure when running a bathroom fan and clothes dryer.  I used a 4" vent pipe and connected insulated flexible duct.  I ran it into the utility room and put the open end into a bucket with some insulation stuffed in it.  The bucket helps to keep the cold air from coming in until there is a vacuum.  

I had a spray foam company come out and spray the rim for better insulation.  I also stuffed some old fiberglass batts down the top of the block and had them seal off the top of the block with foam.  That should help with air/gas flowing up through the blocks.

We have an air exchanger which runs most of the winter except when it gets down to around -20.  They can be considered a mitigation system.

Our levels went from a high of 6.2 pCi/L with a closed house condition to 3.7 pCi/L after doing the fixes and running the air exchanger.  These were short term tests in the basement done in Winter.  We haven't done a long term test, but that would likely be lower.

If you have to put a mitigation system in, they can punch it out through the rim and get to the roof level on the outside.