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Posted: 4/21/2014 9:24:45 AM EDT
[#1]
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Posted: 4/21/2014 10:36:16 AM EDT
[#2]
you can get serial number info directly from Ruger's website.
Since the upper is the serialized part of the firearm, you are stuck with threading that upper. You won't be able to buy aftermarket barrels. |
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Posted: 4/21/2014 11:31:36 AM EDT
[#3]
Don't forget you could buy an integrally suppressed upper as a post-ban firearm. The barrel is not threaded and therefore it is not an AW because of the suppressor.
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Posted: 4/21/2014 11:38:42 AM EDT
[#4]
It's the only Ruger I like besides a 10/22. Great pistol. My is integrally suppressed by DLO with a Volquartsen trigger and lightened bolt.
Now I have a pretty good arm and I can tell you that a Ruger Mk II can be thrown about 40 yds. Why is this pertinent? You will find out the moment you attempt to re-assemble it after taking it apart for cleaning. Every Mk II I have ever seen has some sort of hammer marks on the backstrap in addition to damage from flight. Mark it down because you too will find this out. 
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Posted: 4/21/2014 12:13:30 PM EDT
[#5]
Weigand Combat makes a great rail if you want to add a red dot to a gun that isn't drilled and tapped. Just drift out the rear sight, drift their steel block in, and then screw the rail to the block. The two screws that hold the rail to the block might seem insufficient but they clamp the rail against the entire top of the pistol's receiver, not just the steel block.
It does put a dot fairly high above the bore line but that might not be a bad thing if you plan on using a suppressor. One other thing about MKII's- stock Ruger triggers can be really heavy. Like "Is the safety still on?" bad. |
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Posted: 4/21/2014 12:33:11 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's the only Ruger I like besides a 10/22. Great pistol. My is integrally suppressed by DLO with a Volquartsen trigger and lightened bolt. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b243/conndcj/mcgear18.jpg Now I have a pretty good arm and I can tell you that a Ruger Mk II can be thrown about 40 yds. Why is this pertinent? You will find out the moment you attempt to re-assemble it after taking it apart for cleaning. Every Mk II I have ever seen has some sort of hammer marks on the backstrap in addition to damage from flight. Mark it down because you too will find this out. Oh stop complaining about the disassembly, it's hard only the first 20 times and you finally learn how to hook that thingy into that lever... Serious question, How do you clean a integrally suppressed silencer? Or can you? |
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Posted: 4/21/2014 12:37:57 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Oh stop complaining about the disassembly, it's hard only the first 20 times and you finally learn how to hook that thingy into that lever... Serious question, How do you clean a integrally suppressed silencer? Or can you? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
It's the only Ruger I like besides a 10/22. Great pistol. My is integrally suppressed by DLO with a Volquartsen trigger and lightened bolt. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b243/conndcj/mcgear18.jpg Now I have a pretty good arm and I can tell you that a Ruger Mk II can be thrown about 40 yds. Why is this pertinent? You will find out the moment you attempt to re-assemble it after taking it apart for cleaning. Every Mk II I have ever seen has some sort of hammer marks on the backstrap in addition to damage from flight. Mark it down because you too will find this out. Oh stop complaining about the disassembly, it's hard only the first 20 times and you finally learn how to hook that thingy into that lever... Serious question, How do you clean a integrally suppressed silencer? Or can you? The muzzle cap unscrews for maintenance but I've never touched it. Super quiet as it has a lot of volume. I was going to have it cerekoted but just had it bead blasted instead. |
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Posted: 4/21/2014 4:13:34 PM EDT
[#8]
There isn't a lot to know. They were all solid guns.
Just get a bull barrel. You can thread a slab-side or a tapered barrel but it is harder to do because of thread timing and moving the sights back. The Stainless will need less refinishing, or refinish easier than blued. MkII Target models tended to have a decent factory trigger, but I would still recommend the Volquartsen accurizing kit. Just get one. You'll enjoy it suppressed or regular. (assuming you can find ammo) I shoot a suppressed MkIII 22/45. Approaching 30k rounds. |
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Posted: 4/21/2014 4:40:06 PM EDT
[#9]
Are the rails on this one just drilled, tapped and bolted on?
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Posted: 4/21/2014 6:00:13 PM EDT
[#10]
Ruger purist will tell you that the Goverment ones command a higher price because not to many were made and not to mess with it
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Posted: 4/22/2014 1:44:03 AM EDT
[#11]
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Posted: 4/22/2014 3:50:31 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are the rails on this one just drilled, tapped and bolted on? http:// <a href=http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p186/cthillbilly/Mobile%20Uploads/31f022d64f5a0d58435222cb688e4676_zpsaca0f0bb.jpg</a>" /> D&T thats sweet 
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Posted: 4/22/2014 6:21:34 AM EDT
[#13]
super accurate and mine has been reliable with just about any ammo. The spare mags are getting hard to come by for decent prices. great gun.
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Posted: 4/22/2014 6:59:13 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
super accurate and mine has been reliable with just about any ammo. The spare mags are getting hard to come by for decent prices. great gun. Found a MKII mag at the gun show in Windsor last weekend, brand new in the old style pkg. for 15 bucks !!!!!  Looks exactly like this one. Seen another at Cabela's but passed, they wanted 35 bucks 
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Posted: 5/28/2014 5:34:58 AM EDT
[#15]
Well I couldn't find a Mkii locally so I got the next logical choice. A Mosin Tula M44. They are pretty similar because they both shoot bullets but the Mosin is probably better because technically its a Knifle.
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Posted: 5/28/2014 5:55:46 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well I couldn't find a Mkii locally so I got the next logical choice. A Mosin Tula M44. They are pretty similar because they both shoot bullets but the Mosin is probably better because technically its a Knifle. It's also a flamethrower
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Posted: 5/28/2014 7:13:12 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's also a flamethrower Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Well I couldn't find a Mkii locally so I got the next logical choice. A Mosin Tula M44. They are pretty similar because they both shoot bullets but the Mosin is probably better because technically its a Knifle. It's also a flamethrower FO-FO!!! Get some tracers for it.... |
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Posted: 5/28/2014 8:02:33 AM EDT
[#18]
no no no.
doing it all wrong. browning buckmark. you can replace the barrels whenever you want. that's all i'm gonna say about that. |
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Posted: 5/28/2014 8:27:27 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well I couldn't find a Mkii locally so I got the next logical choice. A Mosin Tula M44. They are pretty similar because they both shoot bullets but the Mosin is probably better because technically its a Knifle. Seen 2 Ruger MKII's in the Bargain News, one a slab side and the other is a Government model
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Posted: 5/28/2014 10:12:29 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
no no no. doing it all wrong. browning buckmark. you can replace the barrels whenever you want. that's all i'm gonna say about that. Mkii/mkiii suppresses better |
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Posted: 5/28/2014 11:06:16 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mkii/mkiii suppresses better Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
no no no. doing it all wrong. browning buckmark. you can replace the barrels whenever you want. that's all i'm gonna say about that. Mkii/mkiii suppresses better Some day I will take my MkIII apart for cleaning. I may do the bushing upgrade, but I am ascared to disassemble and fuck with that upside down, push the block into place swing the lever and throw the gun thinggy.... |
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Posted: 5/28/2014 11:32:15 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Some day I will take my MkIII apart for cleaning. I may do the bushing upgrade, but I am ascared to disassemble and fuck with that upside down, push the block into place swing the lever and throw the gun thinggy.... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
no no no. doing it all wrong. browning buckmark. you can replace the barrels whenever you want. that's all i'm gonna say about that. Mkii/mkiii suppresses better Some day I will take my MkIII apart for cleaning. I may do the bushing upgrade, but I am ascared to disassemble and fuck with that upside down, push the block into place swing the lever and throw the gun thinggy.... I'll help you I've had every piece out of mine more than a few times |
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Posted: 5/29/2014 7:13:16 PM EDT
[#23]
What's a good price for a used MK II stainless bull barrel deal? I saw one about a month ago in a shop and I think that they wanted $450.00 for it. It seemed a little stiff to me.
Correct me if I'm wrong but these are GTG for threading as long as they are pre 94ish right? |
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Posted: 5/31/2014 7:00:34 AM EDT
[#24]
Good price for a used MKII? SS or blued?
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Posted: 5/31/2014 10:54:46 AM EDT
[#25]
They seem to be going for around 450 online. Do you remember where you saw that MKii? A stainless bull barrel is what I am looking for.
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Posted: 5/31/2014 3:23:53 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's a good price for a used MK II stainless bull barrel deal? I saw one about a month ago in a shop and I think that they wanted $450.00 for it. It seemed a little stiff to me. Correct me if I'm wrong but these are GTG for threading as long as they are pre 94ish right? You can find a better deal, but it will be out of sheer luck. If they have the box and are clean and in good shape, expect to pay about what a new MKIII would cost you, minus a few bucks. They mkII's are going up and the stainless 6.75" barrel is one of the most popular If you can do $400 or $450 tax included, I would t walk away if it's clean and you are in the market. Wish I knew enough to buy that 10" model for $120 a few years back. Those go for a lot now. |
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Posted: 5/31/2014 6:42:01 PM EDT
[#27]
Thanks
Is there anything to beware of when buying these used? I noticed on the one that I saw it had some wear on the little "tab" behind the grip just below the slide. I don't know anything about these pistols. i was thinking that this gets depressed when you take it down. |
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Posted: 6/1/2014 6:08:28 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks Is there anything to beware of when buying these used? I noticed on the one that I saw it had some wear on the little "tab" behind the grip just below the slide. I don't know anything about these pistols. i was thinking that this gets depressed when you take it down. Buy one now!!!! 
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Posted: 6/13/2014 5:24:12 PM EDT
[#29]
With the given serial number is this guy a candidate for legal threading? |
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Posted: 6/13/2014 5:36:56 PM EDT
[#30]
http://www.ruger.com/service/productHistory/PI-MarkII.html
Looks like 1989. Go for it! |
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Posted: 6/13/2014 9:34:08 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks Is there anything to beware of when buying these used? I noticed on the one that I saw it had some wear on the little "tab" behind the grip just below the slide. I don't know anything about these pistols. i was thinking that this gets depressed when you take it down. They are tanks. Made out of steel. That is the takedown tab. You'll add wear to it too. They can be a little frustrating to put back together. The only thing you can wear out on these guns are a couple of springs and maybe the firing pin retainer. |
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Posted: 6/14/2014 7:26:35 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They are tanks. Made out of steel. That is the takedown tab. You'll add wear to it too. They can be a little frustrating to put back together. The only thing you can wear out on these guns are a couple of springs and maybe the firing pin retainer. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Thanks Is there anything to beware of when buying these used? I noticed on the one that I saw it had some wear on the little "tab" behind the grip just below the slide. I don't know anything about these pistols. i was thinking that this gets depressed when you take it down. They are tanks. Made out of steel. That is the takedown tab. You'll add wear to it too. They can be a little frustrating to put back together. The only thing you can wear out on these guns are a couple of springs and maybe the firing pin retainer. I saw a video of a guy that took one down by tapping on the front of the barrel with a rubber mallet. Then the receiver/barrel assembly slid off of the grip. Is this the right way? I would think that this would wear those tabs. |
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Posted: 6/14/2014 7:46:11 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj602/clemdogood/pix899349767_zps04666d47.jpg With the given serial number is this guy a candidate for legal threading? It seems you won't be telling me where you saw the Mkii locally so I could buy it. Fine, I get it. I just ordered the Shield 9mm with no safety so take that! |
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Posted: 6/14/2014 3:22:12 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I saw a video of a guy that took one down by tapping on the front of the barrel with a rubber mallet. Then the receiver/barrel assembly slid off of the grip. Is this the right way? I would think that this would wear those tabs. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks Is there anything to beware of when buying these used? I noticed on the one that I saw it had some wear on the little "tab" behind the grip just below the slide. I don't know anything about these pistols. i was thinking that this gets depressed when you take it down. They are tanks. Made out of steel. That is the takedown tab. You'll add wear to it too. They can be a little frustrating to put back together. The only thing you can wear out on these guns are a couple of springs and maybe the firing pin retainer. I saw a video of a guy that took one down by tapping on the front of the barrel with a rubber mallet. Then the receiver/barrel assembly slid off of the grip. Is this the right way? I would think that this would wear those tabs. Not a chance The tapping is because some halves fit tighter than others. I can slap mine off with the flat of my hand, but they don't fall apart. Trust me, you can't hurt it no matter how bad you fuck up reassembly. I primarily use my 22/45 with the polymer frame. They are tanks. You WILL screw up reassembly. You just need to learn when it takes a series of precise wiggles to get it apart, or a big whack with a rubber mallet. ( lol I wish I was joking, but I know this platform pretty good and I'm dead serious). YouTube will be your friend if you get stuck Trust me these are dead reliable. Don't worry about keeping them white glove clean. Just enjoy them. Save the takedown for every 5000 rounds or when you want to install mods. My 22/45 is over 24,000 rounds and is only starting to wear one of the springs out. |
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Posted: 6/18/2014 11:18:38 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj602/clemdogood/pix899349767_zps04666d47.jpg With the given serial number is this guy a candidate for legal threading? Picked up an MK II today finally. It wasn't the one above, that one went for $551 on GB. It was nice but not $551 nice. I grabbed one local that I had been eyeing. I called today and they still had it. Like the one above it's a 214 serial number. It was $451 out the door but it does have some marks on it. Perhaps somebody can give me a tip or two on polishing them out. Then some recommendations for threading. I'll get a few pics up tonight to show the marks. Then you guys can tell me if I did ok on the deal or not. |
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Posted: 6/18/2014 4:29:00 PM EDT
[#36]
Ok this is the spot of my biggest concern. It seems that their is some pitting on the stainless barrel. I didn't know stainless could pit. So, was I dumb to pick this one up? Is the pitting not a big deal, can I buff it out? Can I send it to Ruger and have them recondition it and would it be covered under warranty? I know that they refinish and recondition these but it would be $110.00 and not sure what they would do to fix the stainless. For that I guess I should have held out and bought a better one for a few more bucks?? Should I sell this one and find a better specimen? Other than these issues it looks pretty clean for a 25 year old pistol.
Then there is this scratch on the back strap area. 
A little spotting around the trigger guard. 
Lastly the mag is pretty toasty but I found a legit factory MK II mag NIB. 
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Posted: 6/18/2014 5:16:35 PM EDT
[#37]
Just so it doesn't look like I got a total hunk of garbage.............
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Posted: 6/18/2014 5:19:35 PM EDT
[#38]
Thats blood pitting
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Posted: 6/18/2014 6:05:35 PM EDT
[#39]
Interesting. So keep or hawk it and try and find a better one? Is it worth it to try and have the pitting removed?
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Posted: 6/18/2014 6:35:54 PM EDT
[#40]
I have one from way way back that is pitted a bit, it shoots fine! But I threw it away anywho , just cause!
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Posted: 6/18/2014 6:40:35 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Interesting. So keep or hawk it and try and find a better one? Is it worth it to try and have the pitting removed? choot it. look how thick that barrel is (no homo) look at the little specks of pitting. Derive the huge distance between the pitting and the rifling. Now laugh at the poor attempt at corrosion to ruin your day. However, the pitting looks deep enough to not buff out I'd replace the mag with some newer ones though. That looks like blood too. if it shoots good, keep it. If it doesn't, then look at other options. |
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Posted: 6/18/2014 6:46:57 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ok this is the spot of my biggest concern. It seems that their is some pitting on the stainless barrel. I didn't know stainless could pit. So, was I dumb to pick this one up? Is the pitting not a big deal, can I buff it out? Can I send it to Ruger and have them recondition it and would it be covered under warranty? I know that they refinish and recondition these but it would be $110.00 and not sure what they would do to fix the stainless. For that I guess I should have held out and bought a better one for a few more bucks?? Should I sell this one and find a better specimen? Other than these issues it looks pretty clean for a 25 year old pistol. http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj602/clemdogood/image_zps78eb7e65.jpg Then there is this scratch on the back strap area. http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj602/clemdogood/image_zps038970c4.jpg A little spotting around the trigger guard. http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj602/clemdogood/image_zps5e9ae660.jpg Lastly the mag is pretty toasty but I found a legit factory MK II mag NIB. http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj602/clemdogood/image_zpsa4c45ef3.jpg I don't think that I would worry about that pitting at alll, unless it had invaded the bore as well. Very minor. I actually like buying worn guns, because ostensibly, I'm going to put them in holsters, I'm going to ttake them to the range, there is a good chance that I will carry it in some capacity (either as a defensive arm or for hunting) and that it will sustain wear. If it is already worn- I really can't harm any financial value that it might have AND I can probably save some money when I buy it. |
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Posted: 6/18/2014 7:14:29 PM EDT
[#43]
That thing looks like crap. I would be nervous to accidentally mix some cci stingers in there and have the barrel blow apart. Probably resulting in loss of your hand, your dog getting injured severely and not to mention the 7 years of bad luck. Ill do you a favor, l'll give you 300$ and 5 packs of mini mags to take that liability off your hands.
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Posted: 6/18/2014 7:26:32 PM EDT
[#44]
LOL, got it. I guess I would have felt better if I was out the door closer to $400 but over all it isn't too bad I guess.
Something told me to go to the place with bad/no parking after I picked it up. I wanted to grab a new MK II/III mag. Low in behold in a sea of new MK III mags.............. resting on top was one old grey packaged original MK II mag with the silver Ruger gimmick on the floor plate. It was almost like destiny on an ant's scale. Also thinking about having this dude do the threading http://www.jpgrips.com. He isn't cheap but I think the work looks outstanding. I also noticed that as part of the threading job he machines the Ruger warning off of the barrel. So, if he turns down/machines the entire barrel this might eliminate some of the pitting. I'll have to contact him to confirm but this could kill two birds with one stone for the same price! |
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Posted: 6/19/2014 2:09:42 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ok this is the spot of my biggest concern. It seems that their is some pitting on the stainless barrel. I didn't know stainless could pit. So, was I dumb to pick this one up? Is the pitting not a big deal, can I buff it out? Can I send it to Ruger and have them recondition it and would it be covered under warranty? I know that they refinish and recondition these but it would be $110.00 and not sure what they would do to fix the stainless. For that I guess I should have held out and bought a better one for a few more bucks?? Should I sell this one and find a better specimen? Other than these issues it looks pretty clean for a 25 year old pistol. http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj602/clemdogood/image_zps78eb7e65.jpg Then there is this scratch on the back strap area. http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj602/clemdogood/image_zps038970c4.jpg A little spotting around the trigger guard. http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj602/clemdogood/image_zps5e9ae660.jpg Lastly the mag is pretty toasty but I found a legit factory MK II mag NIB. http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj602/clemdogood/image_zpsa4c45ef3.jpg The gun is 25 years old, cosmetics would be the least of my worries. If it functions reliably and is preban, well, that's what is most important. You could wrap the barrel in duct-tape, that will cover the pitting while giving it a retro look. |
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Posted: 6/19/2014 7:36:08 AM EDT
[#46]
Bought mine a few years back for 200 used out the door
Sent it out to JP Grips and Machine in Pelican Rapids, MN to have threading barrel, Machine Ruger Warning off Barrel, Set back front sight, Thread protector, barrel Shortened and Recrowned and with return shipping. All this for 155 , I shopped locally and had prices for everything listed between 240 and up
 [url=https://flic.kr/p/fzrsru]" />
 [url=https://flic.kr/p/fzrst9]" />
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Posted: 6/19/2014 2:42:31 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Bought mine a few years back for 200 used out the door Sent it out to JP Grips and Machine in Pelican Rapids, MN to have threading barrel, Machine Ruger Warning off Barrel, Set back front sight, Thread protector, barrel Shortened and Recrowned and with return shipping. All this for 155 , I shopped locally and had prices for everything listed between 240 and up
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4144/4961101439_e490411cef_b.jpg http://<a href=https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3711/9567405862_7feb17a46e_c.jpg</a>[url=https://flic.kr/p/fzrsru]" /> http://<a href=https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5322/9567405958_0b62017269_c.jpg</a>[url=https://flic.kr/p/fzrst9]" /> Awesome pics-thanks for posting. It looks like that machining would chip away at some of the pitting. What made you get the barrel shortened if you don't mind me asking? How much did it get shortened, 1"? |
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Posted: 6/19/2014 3:04:11 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Awesome pics-thanks for posting. It looks like that machining would chip away at some of the pitting. What made you get the barrel shortened if you don't mind me asking? How much did it get shortened, 1"? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Bought mine a few years back for 200 used out the door Sent it out to JP Grips and Machine in Pelican Rapids, MN to have threading barrel, Machine Ruger Warning off Barrel, Set back front sight, Thread protector, barrel Shortened and Recrowned and with return shipping. All this for 155 , I shopped locally and had prices for everything listed between 240 and up
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4144/4961101439_e490411cef_b.jpg http://<a href=https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3711/9567405862_7feb17a46e_c.jpg</a>[url=https://flic.kr/p/fzrsru]" /> http://<a href=https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5322/9567405958_0b62017269_c.jpg</a>[url=https://flic.kr/p/fzrst9]" /> Awesome pics-thanks for posting. It looks like that machining would chip away at some of the pitting. What made you get the barrel shortened if you don't mind me asking? How much did it get shortened, 1"? It was shortened to 4 1/2" to keep ammo sub sonic, especially when using a suppressor
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Posted: 6/19/2014 3:24:07 PM EDT
[#49]
I like it! You're a visionary sir!
I thought that the standard velocity stuff is pretty much sub sonic? |
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Posted: 6/19/2014 8:41:05 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It was shortened to 4 1/2" to keep ammo sub sonic, especially when using a suppressor Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Bought mine a few years back for 200 used out the door Sent it out to JP Grips and Machine in Pelican Rapids, MN to have threading barrel, Machine Ruger Warning off Barrel, Set back front sight, Thread protector, barrel Shortened and Recrowned and with return shipping. All this for 155 , I shopped locally and had prices for everything listed between 240 and up
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4144/4961101439_e490411cef_b.jpg http://<a href=https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3711/9567405862_7feb17a46e_c.jpg</a>[url=https://flic.kr/p/fzrsru]" /> http://<a href=https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5322/9567405958_0b62017269_c.jpg</a>[url=https://flic.kr/p/fzrst9]" /> Awesome pics-thanks for posting. It looks like that machining would chip away at some of the pitting. What made you get the barrel shortened if you don't mind me asking? How much did it get shortened, 1"? It was shortened to 4 1/2" to keep ammo sub sonic, especially when using a suppressor Might as well go 3.5" Thats what Ruger sets up their factory threaded 22/45 now. Here is TSX's. I've shot it. Stupid quiet. 
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