It doesnt have a backup key?

Can't you just use a can opener?

I'll see myself out now.

This thread shows pictures of a broken linkage inside of a GunVault product. Sounds like your situation. Most of the mechanism is functioning, but some of the bolts aren't being retracted for some reason.

I don't know what their bolt system looks like. Did you ever take the door panel off? Take any pictures with the door open so that you at least know where the bolts are?

I would guess that when you go through the opening procedure that there is nothing stopping the bolts from being retracted; except for a return spring. Also guessing that one side is working and the other side is suffering from the broken linkage. Determine which side is working by listening at the door while trying to open. On the non-working side, a small hole drilled near a bolt face may permit you to push back that bolt with a stiff wire or rod. The bolts probably do not have independent return springs. Pushing one may retract the rest and get the door open.

I forget his screen name, but there's a real lock smith / vault installer here. Hopefully he can be of more specific help.


If all else fails, take pictures of the safe. Take pictures of whatever has to be done to force it open. Take pictures of the failed internal mechanism. Post the whole story at your new web page www.GunVaultSucks.com. Wait for them to offer you a refund.

This is good advice. I might be the guy he's talking about. I've been a locksmith/safe cracker for 30 years.

If the handle turns after entering the code, but it will not turn without the code, that's proof the lock is working, the handle itself has not been disconnected from the bolt linkage. Process of elimination, one of the door bolts is disconnected from the main linkage is all that's left.

I'm not familiar with the safe you have, but they all are usually solved the same way. You must find the bad bolt. Forget about the hinge side. A bad bolt there will not prevent door opening. It's only there (if there are any that move) in case the hinges get cut off. If you have bolts on top & bottom, it's likely the bottom one. If it was the top, shaking & vibrating the safe by banging on the door with a rubber mallet will make it fall from gravity. That leaves the bottom. You can do one of 2 things. Turn it upside down, or find it, drill through the door where it is, and lift it up with a screwdriver or scratch-all/ice pick. Or lay safe on it's back, and drill in from bottom.

To find door bolts, use a thin piece of cardboard like a business card, but longer...like cutting a strip from one of those election mailers, or a cereal box. Slide it in  between the door & frame in a corner, then slide it along the door edge until it hits something. Mark that spot with a pencil, pull it out and start in from the other side. If it hits something again, about an inch from your pencil mark, the bolt is right there. If the lock is open, handle turned, but you hit a locked bolt with your shim, you just found why & where you're locked out

If it's a side bolt, you can find them with the cardboard shim the same way. Do you know how many bolts on the door? An odd number (like 3, 5) means there's one in the center of the door from top to bottom. Start shimming from top down with handle in locked position. When you hit something, stop, turn handle. If it's working, shim will now move again. Keep going until it stops. You found the bad bolt when it does. You can lay the safe on it's hinge side, and shake-rattle the door and let gravity open it, or you can drill a hole in from the side where the bad bolt is, and push it in. I can't tell how far in from the door's surface to drill, that you must determine from another model just like yours. On most gun safes (Liberty, Browning, etc) door bolts are 1" thick, so you have an inch wide target to hit with a side hole. They're usually 'about' 2" in from door's surface.


FWIW, I charge a travel/service call charge, plus $65 per hour, one hour minimum. Just to give you an idea. But I'm in the northwoods, might be a bit more down there. And I do not know anyone in SE WI to recommend. Never even been there.

Turning it upside is not a good idea, because that will scramble the contents real good. I only do that with safes that have just paperwork, or money.

You only need to lay it down if it's a bottom bolt and you want to drill in from the bottom where the hole will not be visible, or if you know for sure it's a side bolt and you don't want a hole in the side.

FWIW, on most of these situations (like 9 out o 10) it's a bottom bolt. Top bolts get retracted by gravity if not connected, and door bolts are usually (but not always) all connected to one common bar, running from top to bottom of the door. One moves, they all move, as it's all one piece. The reason I said "not always", is those door bolts on the side are usually bolted to a common bar, but an individual bolt or screw that holds a locking bolt can work loose, leaving one sticking out too far when common bar for all side bolts is retracted. I hope that's not the case, as that's a real bitch to solve. Best way is just prying frame away from retracted bolts in area of bad one, until it clears. This will likely open it...but ruin it. . No way to "screw it back in" with door closed.

I really don't have much to add.  If you are looking for a locksmith, I wonder if Nick would have some connections. Nick owns In the Nick of Time Safe Moving in Kewaskum.  I and others have used him for moving safes, and I'd bet a beer he knows the good locksmiths to call.

Now you've done it....

DAY 1

Sounds like $350.

At that price I'd try my luck following HTF directions first. Corded power drill and a bunch of good 1/8" bits sounds like $50 to me. Cheaper if you already own a drill. Metal clothes hanger as a bolt pusher.

Can you see into the safe along the top edge of the door?

Gratz!

Truly a safe thread that delivered!

(well, technically, it wasn't a strange safe with unknown contents, but given the overall track record, we'll take what we can get )

Did you figure out why it wouldnt open?

This. Open up the door from the inside and see where the failure is.

Glad you got in without damaging the contents. Plus, now you own a cool tool.

Awesome job.

I love a happy ending!

After you moved it to the garage, did you try opening it one last time before you cut it?