User Panel
Posted: 9/6/2016 10:10:21 PM EDT
So I have a 6 or so year old Stand up GunVault that will no longer open up. The code buttons on top still work, it has power from the ac adapter, and when you enter the code the mechanism sounds like it is going to unlock. The handle turns but the door won't budge an inch. When you turn the handle back to the locked position you can feel a mechanism move.
I emailed GunVault and they said it only had a 1 year warranty and I am on my own to call a locksmith to open it up. Does anyone know a locksmith who can open this tin can without damaging the firearms inside? I suppose anyone in Kenosha, Walworth, Rock, Jefferson, Waukesha, and Racine area would be close enough. How much is this going to cost me? |
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This thread shows pictures of a broken linkage inside of a GunVault product. Sounds like your situation. Most of the mechanism is functioning, but some of the bolts aren't being retracted for some reason.
I don't know what their bolt system looks like. Did you ever take the door panel off? Take any pictures with the door open so that you at least know where the bolts are? I would guess that when you go through the opening procedure that there is nothing stopping the bolts from being retracted; except for a return spring. Also guessing that one side is working and the other side is suffering from the broken linkage. Determine which side is working by listening at the door while trying to open. On the non-working side, a small hole drilled near a bolt face may permit you to push back that bolt with a stiff wire or rod. The bolts probably do not have independent return springs. Pushing one may retract the rest and get the door open. I forget his screen name, but there's a real lock smith / vault installer here. Hopefully he can be of more specific help. If all else fails, take pictures of the safe. Take pictures of whatever has to be done to force it open. Take pictures of the failed internal mechanism. Post the whole story at your new web page www.GunVaultSucks.com. Wait for them to offer you a refund. |
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Quoted:
This thread shows pictures of a broken linkage inside of a GunVault product. Sounds like your situation. Most of the mechanism is functioning, but some of the bolts aren't being retracted for some reason. I don't know what their bolt system looks like. Did you ever take the door panel off? Take any pictures with the door open so that you at least know where the bolts are? I would guess that when you go through the opening procedure that there is nothing stopping the bolts from being retracted; except for a return spring. Also guessing that one side is working and the other side is suffering from the broken linkage. Determine which side is working by listening at the door while trying to open. On the non-working side, a small hole drilled near a bolt face may permit you to push back that bolt with a stiff wire or rod. The bolts probably do not have independent return springs. Pushing one may retract the rest and get the door open. I forget his screen name, but there's a real lock smith / vault installer here. Hopefully he can be of more specific help. If all else fails, take pictures of the safe. Take pictures of whatever has to be done to force it open. Take pictures of the failed internal mechanism. Post the whole story at your new web page www.GunVaultSucks.com. Wait for them to offer you a refund. View Quote Thanks. I saw that link but realized it was for a different model so I am not sure if it applies even though it sounds like it does. I have no idea where all the bolts are at on it. I never opened up the door to look or got on the floor to look underneath. I just plugged it in and started using it. I think I will try to get this one opened by a pro and then kick it to the curb and get a dial so I don't have to worry about batteries, keys, or power outages. On a positive note my wife thinks we should consolidate our two safes in to one big one. |
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This thread shows pictures of a broken linkage inside of a GunVault product. Sounds like your situation. Most of the mechanism is functioning, but some of the bolts aren't being retracted for some reason. I don't know what their bolt system looks like. Did you ever take the door panel off? Take any pictures with the door open so that you at least know where the bolts are? I would guess that when you go through the opening procedure that there is nothing stopping the bolts from being retracted; except for a return spring. Also guessing that one side is working and the other side is suffering from the broken linkage. Determine which side is working by listening at the door while trying to open. On the non-working side, a small hole drilled near a bolt face may permit you to push back that bolt with a stiff wire or rod. The bolts probably do not have independent return springs. Pushing one may retract the rest and get the door open. I forget his screen name, but there's a real lock smith / vault installer here. Hopefully he can be of more specific help. If all else fails, take pictures of the safe. Take pictures of whatever has to be done to force it open. Take pictures of the failed internal mechanism. Post the whole story at your new web page www.GunVaultSucks.com. Wait for them to offer you a refund. View Quote This is good advice. I might be the guy he's talking about. I've been a locksmith/safe cracker for 30 years. If the handle turns after entering the code, but it will not turn without the code, that's proof the lock is working, the handle itself has not been disconnected from the bolt linkage. Process of elimination, one of the door bolts is disconnected from the main linkage is all that's left. I'm not familiar with the safe you have, but they all are usually solved the same way. You must find the bad bolt. Forget about the hinge side. A bad bolt there will not prevent door opening. It's only there (if there are any that move) in case the hinges get cut off. If you have bolts on top & bottom, it's likely the bottom one. If it was the top, shaking & vibrating the safe by banging on the door with a rubber mallet will make it fall from gravity. That leaves the bottom. You can do one of 2 things. Turn it upside down, or find it, drill through the door where it is, and lift it up with a screwdriver or scratch-all/ice pick. Or lay safe on it's back, and drill in from bottom. To find door bolts, use a thin piece of cardboard like a business card, but longer...like cutting a strip from one of those election mailers, or a cereal box. Slide it in between the door & frame in a corner, then slide it along the door edge until it hits something. Mark that spot with a pencil, pull it out and start in from the other side. If it hits something again, about an inch from your pencil mark, the bolt is right there. If the lock is open, handle turned, but you hit a locked bolt with your shim, you just found why & where you're locked out If it's a side bolt, you can find them with the cardboard shim the same way. Do you know how many bolts on the door? An odd number (like 3, 5) means there's one in the center of the door from top to bottom. Start shimming from top down with handle in locked position. When you hit something, stop, turn handle. If it's working, shim will now move again. Keep going until it stops. You found the bad bolt when it does. You can lay the safe on it's hinge side, and shake-rattle the door and let gravity open it, or you can drill a hole in from the side where the bad bolt is, and push it in. I can't tell how far in from the door's surface to drill, that you must determine from another model just like yours. On most gun safes (Liberty, Browning, etc) door bolts are 1" thick, so you have an inch wide target to hit with a side hole. They're usually 'about' 2" in from door's surface. FWIW, I charge a travel/service call charge, plus $65 per hour, one hour minimum. Just to give you an idea. But I'm in the northwoods, might be a bit more down there. And I do not know anyone in SE WI to recommend. Never even been there. |
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This is good advice. I might be the guy he's talking about. I've been a locksmith/safe cracker for 30 years. If the handle turns after entering the code, but it will not turn without the code, that's proof the lock is working, the handle itself has not been disconnected from the bolt linkage. Process of elimination, one of the door bolts is disconnected from the main linkage is all that's left. I'm not familiar with the safe you have, but they all are usually solved the same way. You must find the bad bolt. Forget about the hinge side. A bad bolt there will not prevent door opening. It's only there (if there are any that move) in case the hinges get cut off. If you have bolts on top & bottom, it's likely the bottom one. If it was the top, shaking & vibrating the safe by banging on the door with a rubber mallet will make it fall from gravity. That leaves the bottom. You can do one of 2 things. Turn it upside down, or find it, drill through the door where it is, and lift it up with a screwdriver or scratch-all/ice pick. Or lay safe on it's back, and drill in from bottom. To find door bolts, use a thin piece of cardboard like a business card, but longer...like cutting a strip from one of those election mailers, or a cereal box. Slide it in between the door & frame in a corner, then slide it along the door edge until it hits something. Mark that spot with a pencil, pull it out and start in from the other side. If it hits something again, about an inch from your pencil mark, the bolt is right there. If the lock is open, handle turned, but you hit a locked bolt with your shim, you just found why & where you're locked out If it's a side bolt, you can find them with the cardboard shim the same way. Do you know how many bolts on the door? An odd number (like 3, 5) means there's one in the center of the door from top to bottom. Start shimming from top down with handle in locked position. When you hit something, stop, turn handle. If it's working, shim will now move again. Keep going until it stops. You found the bad bolt when it does. You can lay the safe on it's hinge side, and shake-rattle the door and let gravity open it, or you can drill a hole in from the side where the bad bolt is, and push it in. I can't tell how far in from the door's surface to drill, that you must determine from another model just like yours. On most gun safes (Liberty, Browning, etc) door bolts are 1" thick, so you have an inch wide target to hit with a side hole. They're usually 'about' 2" in from door's surface. FWIW, I charge a travel/service call charge, plus $65 per hour, one hour minimum. Just to give you an idea. But I'm in the northwoods, might be a bit more down there. And I do not know anyone in SE WI to recommend. Never even been there. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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This thread shows pictures of a broken linkage inside of a GunVault product. Sounds like your situation. Most of the mechanism is functioning, but some of the bolts aren't being retracted for some reason. I don't know what their bolt system looks like. Did you ever take the door panel off? Take any pictures with the door open so that you at least know where the bolts are? I would guess that when you go through the opening procedure that there is nothing stopping the bolts from being retracted; except for a return spring. Also guessing that one side is working and the other side is suffering from the broken linkage. Determine which side is working by listening at the door while trying to open. On the non-working side, a small hole drilled near a bolt face may permit you to push back that bolt with a stiff wire or rod. The bolts probably do not have independent return springs. Pushing one may retract the rest and get the door open. I forget his screen name, but there's a real lock smith / vault installer here. Hopefully he can be of more specific help. If all else fails, take pictures of the safe. Take pictures of whatever has to be done to force it open. Take pictures of the failed internal mechanism. Post the whole story at your new web page www.GunVaultSucks.com. Wait for them to offer you a refund. This is good advice. I might be the guy he's talking about. I've been a locksmith/safe cracker for 30 years. If the handle turns after entering the code, but it will not turn without the code, that's proof the lock is working, the handle itself has not been disconnected from the bolt linkage. Process of elimination, one of the door bolts is disconnected from the main linkage is all that's left. I'm not familiar with the safe you have, but they all are usually solved the same way. You must find the bad bolt. Forget about the hinge side. A bad bolt there will not prevent door opening. It's only there (if there are any that move) in case the hinges get cut off. If you have bolts on top & bottom, it's likely the bottom one. If it was the top, shaking & vibrating the safe by banging on the door with a rubber mallet will make it fall from gravity. That leaves the bottom. You can do one of 2 things. Turn it upside down, or find it, drill through the door where it is, and lift it up with a screwdriver or scratch-all/ice pick. Or lay safe on it's back, and drill in from bottom. To find door bolts, use a thin piece of cardboard like a business card, but longer...like cutting a strip from one of those election mailers, or a cereal box. Slide it in between the door & frame in a corner, then slide it along the door edge until it hits something. Mark that spot with a pencil, pull it out and start in from the other side. If it hits something again, about an inch from your pencil mark, the bolt is right there. If the lock is open, handle turned, but you hit a locked bolt with your shim, you just found why & where you're locked out If it's a side bolt, you can find them with the cardboard shim the same way. Do you know how many bolts on the door? An odd number (like 3, 5) means there's one in the center of the door from top to bottom. Start shimming from top down with handle in locked position. When you hit something, stop, turn handle. If it's working, shim will now move again. Keep going until it stops. You found the bad bolt when it does. You can lay the safe on it's hinge side, and shake-rattle the door and let gravity open it, or you can drill a hole in from the side where the bad bolt is, and push it in. I can't tell how far in from the door's surface to drill, that you must determine from another model just like yours. On most gun safes (Liberty, Browning, etc) door bolts are 1" thick, so you have an inch wide target to hit with a side hole. They're usually 'about' 2" in from door's surface. FWIW, I charge a travel/service call charge, plus $65 per hour, one hour minimum. Just to give you an idea. But I'm in the northwoods, might be a bit more down there. And I do not know anyone in SE WI to recommend. Never even been there. Thank you for the advice. I can't turn it upside down due to what is in there. I can't afford to damage some of the things in there. I do feel ok laying it down though. I am going to go out on a limb and say 4 bolts but I really am not sure. I will try the mallet method and see what that produces then try the cardboard method. |
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Thank you for the advice. I can't turn it upside down due to what is in there. I can't afford to damage some of the things in there. I do feel ok laying it down though. I am going to go out on a limb and say 4 bolts but I really am not sure. I will try the mallet method and see what that produces then try the cardboard method. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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This thread shows pictures of a broken linkage inside of a GunVault product. Sounds like your situation. Most of the mechanism is functioning, but some of the bolts aren't being retracted for some reason. I don't know what their bolt system looks like. Did you ever take the door panel off? Take any pictures with the door open so that you at least know where the bolts are? I would guess that when you go through the opening procedure that there is nothing stopping the bolts from being retracted; except for a return spring. Also guessing that one side is working and the other side is suffering from the broken linkage. Determine which side is working by listening at the door while trying to open. On the non-working side, a small hole drilled near a bolt face may permit you to push back that bolt with a stiff wire or rod. The bolts probably do not have independent return springs. Pushing one may retract the rest and get the door open. I forget his screen name, but there's a real lock smith / vault installer here. Hopefully he can be of more specific help. If all else fails, take pictures of the safe. Take pictures of whatever has to be done to force it open. Take pictures of the failed internal mechanism. Post the whole story at your new web page www.GunVaultSucks.com. Wait for them to offer you a refund. This is good advice. I might be the guy he's talking about. I've been a locksmith/safe cracker for 30 years. If the handle turns after entering the code, but it will not turn without the code, that's proof the lock is working, the handle itself has not been disconnected from the bolt linkage. Process of elimination, one of the door bolts is disconnected from the main linkage is all that's left. I'm not familiar with the safe you have, but they all are usually solved the same way. You must find the bad bolt. Forget about the hinge side. A bad bolt there will not prevent door opening. It's only there (if there are any that move) in case the hinges get cut off. If you have bolts on top & bottom, it's likely the bottom one. If it was the top, shaking & vibrating the safe by banging on the door with a rubber mallet will make it fall from gravity. That leaves the bottom. You can do one of 2 things. Turn it upside down, or find it, drill through the door where it is, and lift it up with a screwdriver or scratch-all/ice pick. Or lay safe on it's back, and drill in from bottom. To find door bolts, use a thin piece of cardboard like a business card, but longer...like cutting a strip from one of those election mailers, or a cereal box. Slide it in between the door & frame in a corner, then slide it along the door edge until it hits something. Mark that spot with a pencil, pull it out and start in from the other side. If it hits something again, about an inch from your pencil mark, the bolt is right there. If the lock is open, handle turned, but you hit a locked bolt with your shim, you just found why & where you're locked out If it's a side bolt, you can find them with the cardboard shim the same way. Do you know how many bolts on the door? An odd number (like 3, 5) means there's one in the center of the door from top to bottom. Start shimming from top down with handle in locked position. When you hit something, stop, turn handle. If it's working, shim will now move again. Keep going until it stops. You found the bad bolt when it does. You can lay the safe on it's hinge side, and shake-rattle the door and let gravity open it, or you can drill a hole in from the side where the bad bolt is, and push it in. I can't tell how far in from the door's surface to drill, that you must determine from another model just like yours. On most gun safes (Liberty, Browning, etc) door bolts are 1" thick, so you have an inch wide target to hit with a side hole. They're usually 'about' 2" in from door's surface. FWIW, I charge a travel/service call charge, plus $65 per hour, one hour minimum. Just to give you an idea. But I'm in the northwoods, might be a bit more down there. And I do not know anyone in SE WI to recommend. Never even been there. Thank you for the advice. I can't turn it upside down due to what is in there. I can't afford to damage some of the things in there. I do feel ok laying it down though. I am going to go out on a limb and say 4 bolts but I really am not sure. I will try the mallet method and see what that produces then try the cardboard method. Turning it upside is not a good idea, because that will scramble the contents real good. I only do that with safes that have just paperwork, or money. You only need to lay it down if it's a bottom bolt and you want to drill in from the bottom where the hole will not be visible, or if you know for sure it's a side bolt and you don't want a hole in the side. FWIW, on most of these situations (like 9 out o 10) it's a bottom bolt. Top bolts get retracted by gravity if not connected, and door bolts are usually (but not always) all connected to one common bar, running from top to bottom of the door. One moves, they all move, as it's all one piece. The reason I said "not always", is those door bolts on the side are usually bolted to a common bar, but an individual bolt or screw that holds a locking bolt can work loose, leaving one sticking out too far when common bar for all side bolts is retracted. I hope that's not the case, as that's a real bitch to solve. Best way is just prying frame away from retracted bolts in area of bad one, until it clears. This will likely open it...but ruin it. . No way to "screw it back in" with door closed. |
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Turning it upside is not a good idea, because that will scramble the contents real good. I only do that with safes that have just paperwork, or money. You only need to lay it down if it's a bottom bolt and you want to drill in from the bottom where the hole will not be visible, or if you know for sure it's a side bolt and you don't want a hole in the side. FWIW, on most of these situations (like 9 out o 10) it's a bottom bolt. Top bolts get retracted by gravity if not connected, and door bolts are usually (but not always) all connected to one common bar, running from top to bottom of the door. One moves, they all move, as it's all one piece. The reason I said "not always", is those door bolts on the side are usually bolted to a common bar, but an individual bolt or screw that holds a locking bolt can work loose, leaving one sticking out too far when common bar for all side bolts is retracted. I hope that's not the case, as that's a real bitch to solve. Best way is just prying frame away from retracted bolts in area of bad one, until it clears. This will likely open it...but ruin it. . No way to "screw it back in" with door closed. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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This thread shows pictures of a broken linkage inside of a GunVault product. Sounds like your situation. Most of the mechanism is functioning, but some of the bolts aren't being retracted for some reason. I don't know what their bolt system looks like. Did you ever take the door panel off? Take any pictures with the door open so that you at least know where the bolts are? I would guess that when you go through the opening procedure that there is nothing stopping the bolts from being retracted; except for a return spring. Also guessing that one side is working and the other side is suffering from the broken linkage. Determine which side is working by listening at the door while trying to open. On the non-working side, a small hole drilled near a bolt face may permit you to push back that bolt with a stiff wire or rod. The bolts probably do not have independent return springs. Pushing one may retract the rest and get the door open. I forget his screen name, but there's a real lock smith / vault installer here. Hopefully he can be of more specific help. If all else fails, take pictures of the safe. Take pictures of whatever has to be done to force it open. Take pictures of the failed internal mechanism. Post the whole story at your new web page www.GunVaultSucks.com. Wait for them to offer you a refund. This is good advice. I might be the guy he's talking about. I've been a locksmith/safe cracker for 30 years. If the handle turns after entering the code, but it will not turn without the code, that's proof the lock is working, the handle itself has not been disconnected from the bolt linkage. Process of elimination, one of the door bolts is disconnected from the main linkage is all that's left. I'm not familiar with the safe you have, but they all are usually solved the same way. You must find the bad bolt. Forget about the hinge side. A bad bolt there will not prevent door opening. It's only there (if there are any that move) in case the hinges get cut off. If you have bolts on top & bottom, it's likely the bottom one. If it was the top, shaking & vibrating the safe by banging on the door with a rubber mallet will make it fall from gravity. That leaves the bottom. You can do one of 2 things. Turn it upside down, or find it, drill through the door where it is, and lift it up with a screwdriver or scratch-all/ice pick. Or lay safe on it's back, and drill in from bottom. To find door bolts, use a thin piece of cardboard like a business card, but longer...like cutting a strip from one of those election mailers, or a cereal box. Slide it in between the door & frame in a corner, then slide it along the door edge until it hits something. Mark that spot with a pencil, pull it out and start in from the other side. If it hits something again, about an inch from your pencil mark, the bolt is right there. If the lock is open, handle turned, but you hit a locked bolt with your shim, you just found why & where you're locked out If it's a side bolt, you can find them with the cardboard shim the same way. Do you know how many bolts on the door? An odd number (like 3, 5) means there's one in the center of the door from top to bottom. Start shimming from top down with handle in locked position. When you hit something, stop, turn handle. If it's working, shim will now move again. Keep going until it stops. You found the bad bolt when it does. You can lay the safe on it's hinge side, and shake-rattle the door and let gravity open it, or you can drill a hole in from the side where the bad bolt is, and push it in. I can't tell how far in from the door's surface to drill, that you must determine from another model just like yours. On most gun safes (Liberty, Browning, etc) door bolts are 1" thick, so you have an inch wide target to hit with a side hole. They're usually 'about' 2" in from door's surface. FWIW, I charge a travel/service call charge, plus $65 per hour, one hour minimum. Just to give you an idea. But I'm in the northwoods, might be a bit more down there. And I do not know anyone in SE WI to recommend. Never even been there. Thank you for the advice. I can't turn it upside down due to what is in there. I can't afford to damage some of the things in there. I do feel ok laying it down though. I am going to go out on a limb and say 4 bolts but I really am not sure. I will try the mallet method and see what that produces then try the cardboard method. Turning it upside is not a good idea, because that will scramble the contents real good. I only do that with safes that have just paperwork, or money. You only need to lay it down if it's a bottom bolt and you want to drill in from the bottom where the hole will not be visible, or if you know for sure it's a side bolt and you don't want a hole in the side. FWIW, on most of these situations (like 9 out o 10) it's a bottom bolt. Top bolts get retracted by gravity if not connected, and door bolts are usually (but not always) all connected to one common bar, running from top to bottom of the door. One moves, they all move, as it's all one piece. The reason I said "not always", is those door bolts on the side are usually bolted to a common bar, but an individual bolt or screw that holds a locking bolt can work loose, leaving one sticking out too far when common bar for all side bolts is retracted. I hope that's not the case, as that's a real bitch to solve. Best way is just prying frame away from retracted bolts in area of bad one, until it clears. This will likely open it...but ruin it. . No way to "screw it back in" with door closed. At this point in time I am fine with carefully peeling apart, as to not damage the contents, and scrap it. I will make some attempts and try to find a pro in the area if needs be. Luckily nothing in there is a major necessity right now. |
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Safe thread
In all honesty let us know what you find, I am curious as to which bolt is hanging up on you. Oh and don't forget pics. |
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I really don't have much to add. If you are looking for a locksmith, I wonder if Nick would have some connections. Nick owns In the Nick of Time Safe Moving in Kewaskum. I and others have used him for moving safes, and I'd bet a beer he knows the good locksmiths to call.
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I really don't have much to add. If you are looking for a locksmith, I wonder if Nick would have some connections. Nick owns In the Nick of Time Safe Moving in Kewaskum. I and others have used him for moving safes, and I'd bet a beer he knows the good locksmiths to call. View Quote I emailed them today. I will try the methods mentioned earlier in this thread tonight. If they don't work hopefully Nick will have a source. |
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So I found a place in Kenosha that will come out and drill it open for me.
$85 service call fee plus $225 for the first hour. $45 for any hour after that. I have called a dozen places and this is the first one that will drive out to me to do the service. ETA: Nick of Time called me back and said that opening the safe it not something they will do. They will only swap out locks. |
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damn man, I would come out and help you figure out which bolt is hanging up if I was any closer and just a tad less busy. would save you a ton of money that way.
have a compressor? I have body tools that I could use to get in if needed, safe might not be much use afterwords but you would get in. |
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So I found a place in Kenosha that will come out and drill it open for me. $85 service call fee plus $225 for the first hour. $45 for any hour after that. I have called a dozen places and this is the first one that will drive out to me to do the service. ETA: Nick of Time called me back and said that opening the safe it not something they will do. They will only swap out locks. View Quote Sounds like $350. At that price I'd try my luck following HTF directions first. Corded power drill and a bunch of good 1/8" bits sounds like $50 to me. Cheaper if you already own a drill. Metal clothes hanger as a bolt pusher. |
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Truly a safe thread that delivered!
(well, technically, it wasn't a strange safe with unknown contents, but given the overall track record, we'll take what we can get ) |
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I think the bottom rod was jammed or bound up some how. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Did you figure out why it wouldnt open? I think the bottom rod was jammed or bound up some how. After you moved it to the garage, did you try opening it one last time before you cut it? |
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After you moved it to the garage, did you try opening it one last time before you cut it? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Did you figure out why it wouldnt open? I think the bottom rod was jammed or bound up some how. After you moved it to the garage, did you try opening it one last time before you cut it? Yes. I used the mallet on the top, bottom, and sides then tried to open it again. No luck. I do not remember hearing anything after grinding on the bottom. I probably would have missed it due to the hearing protection I was wearing anyway. I decided to heat up the bottom first and try that one because of what was mentioned in here. I got lucky that it worked on the first attempt. |
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