So my younger brother told me that he wants to climb Rainer. I am a little concerned that this might be a little more than he can chew but I’ve never been up there in that area. How difficult of a climb is it? He is 29 and extremely good physical shape. He is a solid hiker but has little/no experience on mountains. He has no experience ice climbing although he has done some rock climbing. I asked if he would be using a guide service and he told me no because they were too expensive and he “knows a guy who knows all about mountain climbing”. I think he plans to do the climb next spring/summer. His bush craft skills are low but his guts and toughness are high. He has a history of doing dumb shit with a “how hard could this be?” sort of an attitude.

Is he nuts? Can a guy with minimal time on a mountain climb that sucker safely as a first real mountain climb?

Can any of you in WA suggest some less technical climbs he could do this fall to prepare him?

Thanks
–LTC-

If he's never climbed  before he needs to go with someone who knows what they're doing. Especially if he's not even done little ones like St Helens or Ellinor. He needs to start looking into cascadeclimbers.com or www.summitpost.org and find a group to go with, people are always on there looking for partners. Ice axe, Crampons and Helmet forsure. But this is my opinion and I'm not an expert. I've seen idiots go up to 9,000" in jeans and shoes with no pack or jacket, and then you have a lot of  experts who have died recently around here, doing what they do. Alot can go wrong, and you can have no control of it.

This photo was taken 28 Feb just below Camp Muir , about 10 minutes later  a huge avalanche happened right next to us on the Nisqually Glacier (we were on the Muir Snowfield). I've gone out there when it's sunny, only to have a blizzard happen 30 minutes in. Be prepared is all I can say.

People die up there every year it seems. A Park Ranger died there about  a year back rescuing a party of climbers.

One of many stories on the subject

Yea, alot of people died there this year alone. 6 from avalanche and some the lady from Hypothermia (in the spring/summer).

http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/things-to-know-before-you-climb.htm

Just make sure he's prepared.

He should sign up for one of the guided climbs.  Thats what I did.  I used RMI.

They just recovered three bodies from earlier in the year.  People train on Rainier for Mckinley.  Peole train on Mckinley for Everest.  It is a real mountain.

They recovered three bodies just a few days ago, excerpt from Fox news article,

The six, all experienced mountaineers, included two guides and four climbers. They went missing the last week of May on a technical, dangerous and little-used route up Liberty Ridge. Authorities believe they fell 3,300 feet.

That is the exact attitude that killed my friends boyfriend a long time ago on Rainier. Do not take that mountain lightly.

If he wants to do it. He should. But he NEEDS to do it correctly. Join one of the previously mentioned clubs or the mountaineers or something and take the classes. Do it right or risk serious consequences (which are actually a risk regardless).

I have summitted it a couple of times with no guide service, as well as a couple of attempts. As long as he knows the principles of glacier travel- rope use, rope etiquette, self arrest, how to construct a z-drag pulley system, prusiks etc., he will be fine.

You can be in the best shape of your life and the altitude will kick your ass.  I hope he knows when to turn back because of conditions instead of pushing on. Storms pop up in a hurry.


PM me for any particular questions.