I just got a Century C-93 (and an UC-9 UZI too)

The gun looks really nice, the finish is surprisingly good for the price (though I wish it was black instead of the incorrect parkerized grey).  I am sort of curious about the flash hider, why does it have the U shaped cuts at the end of it?  My TR-91's hider doesnt have that.  The only thing I hate on it though is the ugly ass pistol grip.

What I need to buy is this: http://www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/HK94-HK93-SEMI-AUTO-STEEL-CLIPPED-PINNED-LOWER-PARKERIZED-FOR-CLONES-122p3005.htm right?  And then remove all the parts from the crap plastic lower and put it in this one?  I have a spare HK-91 grip, will it work with this?

Sorry, I'm new to modding, thanks for any help.

Also if someone could steer me towards some sub $50 25 rounders (not promag), that would be great (yes I know its not gonna happen)

How's the bolt gap?

I don't have any feeler gauges, I need to buy some I guess.

Is it unsafe to shoot until I measure its bolt gap?

I always wanted one myself they never come up for the price I want to pay,

yes check the bolt gap  big concerns on these from century

THANK for saying you where replacing parts or modding , half the losers on this site would say they were building something, the half are all talk

As far as the steel lower is concerned, you will need a new selector as your (plastic lower) selector will be too wide to work in the steel type. Otherwise it will fit.

The U-shaped notches on the flash suppressor are normal on the G33's that i have seen.

As far as the cheap magazines, Pro mag is still the only game in town as the Turkish magazines are usually sold out and the original steel/aluminum  HK 25/30/40's, are usually from $50~100 or so up.

The U-notches are to fit a factory spanner tool in order to tighten or loosen the device. I just use the handle of an AR-15 multi-tool in the notches and crank away. DO NOT stick anything in the slots of the flash hider unless you want to damage the F/H.

HK Specialist has the MKE mags for around 55$ a pop. (poly 30rds) Steel 25s for under 70-75$ isn't happening. Also the Promag ones work surprisingly well once they're fitted. It seems the mag catch on the mag body just needs a hair opening. They do feed reliably as i've used a couple of them in automatic fire.

Hope it's a good one. You will love it.

The notches are to clear barbed wire.

HDH.

The U notches on an HK type Flash Hider are designed to be used in removing the unit with a sling hook. Look Here

Thanks! Of all the books and manuals I have on the G3, not one mentions this fact.



 

I was able to take the c-93 out to the range this morning.  I only had time to put 50 rounds through it, 40 Tula, and 10 60g vmax.

Zero malfunctions, and mostly shot at steel targets 250 meters away.  The problem is that the iron sights are way off and need to be adjusted.  I had to hold over a foot to the right, but once I did, it was ringing the plate time after time, shooting at about 1 round a second speed.  I'm pretty impressed with its accuracy, though I need to shoot groups next time.

Is it just me, or is the recoil very light with this rifle?

I mentioned this in the other thread, but you might not have seen it.

J&G Sales has them for sale for $499, but only with one mag. Still the best deal on these I have seen.

An alternate grip is the plastic ergo grip.

HK parts has these cheap as surplus. if you want to clip & pin yourself.

SEF Lower for HK33

How hard is it to clip/pin it yourself?

I did it a few years back with a dremel tool and file.  I think it took me an hour or so.  You can cut real HK push pin ends with a dremel cut off wheel or a hack saw.  Save the ends to make the fake pin look on the lower _ You can epoxy the ends in to fake a pin look.  Carve away the plastic on the inside of the ears until they match the Century plastic lower might also need to grind away the material for  the trigger group, go slow and careful.

Glad it worked for you OOTB; most are so full of build-gunk they need to be cleaned 3-4 times before they run. Yes, recoil is great, great gun to teach a newbie on. SOld mine as I couldn't deal with declining bolt-gap and proprietary mags.

Similar housing for $12 at Apex if you don't care about the markings (German made for a Malaysian contract, so they don't say "S,E,F" they say "S,U,O": https://www.apexgunparts.com/product_info.php/cPath/42/products_id/1131

To clip and pin, you need some good epoxy, a few files and a hacksaw for the pin, around 15 minutes of filing, and then section a pin and epoxy the ends in place.  There is an overview here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_9/197791_Clipped_and_Pinned.html  There are also overviews at HKPro as well.  It is very easy to do.

At this price, buy two and use one to practice.  Use your original lower as a guideline to show you how much to fit.  Remove the least amount of material possible to fit tightly on your receiver.  That is why I say "file", not "Dremel".  Some small warding files work fine since the material is pretty soft (1mm sheet metal and plastic) and you don't need to take much off to get a good fit.

Nice sticks buddy. Both look really good. That parked finish will be way more durable than the HK style paint.

ETA: Just picked up my "new" C-93 from the transfer dealer yesterday. Other than the distributor pinching the other 40 rounder it had when originally shipped from Century all is good. Fit and finish is really decent. Even the refinished furniture doesn't offend. But yeah that trigger group housing has got to go. The original mag supplied fits a little snug but promags pop right in, lock up great and pop out beautifully. To all the bolt gap gurus out there, yes it appears to have decent bolt gap as determined by my eyeball gauge. I've had many a .308 G3 types over the years so I know what I'm looking at. I was also pleased to see the trunnion pin installed as it should be IE through the receiver. My C-93/53 pistol does not have the pin done to HK spec but is a looker and sweet shooter ta boot! Yep pleased so far. Think I'll get the Uzi next.

ETA2: The spare polymer housing from my PTR-32 fits this thing perfectly so lame housing issue solved at 0 cost.