Okay so I purchased a Imbel FAL parts kit 2-3 years ago and I just purchased a barreled receiver here off the EE.Link to Receiver
I have some pictures of my parts kit and am needing to know what else I need to buy to put it together. The barrel has been head spaced so that part is done. Is it as simple as just putting it back together or not?
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ETA:
Okay guys I got it all put together and got my 7.62x51 go no-go gauges and the headspace is off. I am thinking that they may have used 308 win go no-go gauges when they heads paced it could this be the issue.I saw on Falfiles that you can make a go no-go gauge using a loaded round and painters tape. One piece of tape is a go, 2 pieces is the no-go, and 3 pieces is the field gauge. I am going to go ask a gun manufacture in town tomorrow when I get off work if they have a set of 308 gauges.

I would at LEAST check HS with some GO/NO GO guages.
But yeah, pretty much looks like installing the parts will get you to the range

EDIT; check HS with YOUR BOLT AND CARRIER.

CONGRATS!





Yea, since the barrel is already installed and the headspace done (I'd still buy some gauges just to make absolutely sure), it's just a matter of reassembly.





Will be a nice stick when you're done.



oops, too slow, what he said

Great I will pick up a set of go no-go gauges. I cant wait I have had this parts kit for far to long.

Don't forget your US made parts for legal reasons

As said before unless the receiver you bought came with a bolt and bolt carrier you need to check your headspace

The barreled receiver that you linked (with no bolt/bolt carrier) has not been headspaced even if the original locking shoulder has been 'installed' in the receiver.

You will have to headspace the bolt/bolt carrier to the barreled receiver...

Forrest

Really, even though he has had it built with his parts kit on it and shot 300 rounds threw it? Or are you saying the headspace will likely be different since my bolt is different?

Yes, the barrel receiver must be headspaced with your bolt.  Previous headspacing with a different bolt is irrelevant for you.

Forrest

Check out FALfiles, short version is that pin in the receiver about 1/4" around with two flats and an anti rotation dogbone thingy one one side is your locking shoulder, that sets headspace.
You basically use pin gages to get the right locking shoulder size then do some addition and subtraction, buy the right locking shoulder size, install and shoot.
FALfiles has all the info you need.

Okay sounds good looks like I will be doing some home smithing.

With IMBEL and FMAP parts you have a better-than-typical probability that the HS is OK if if if the previous BC was the same mfg.

Still, definitely check HS with YOUR Bolt & Carrier as said!  

The other big problem that is very common is that the barrel is not timed properly.   That's hard to see by eye without alignment tools.

Re. headspacing: yes, you absolutely need to do it with your bolt.
However, you need to also be aware that the allowable headspace range for 7.62 NATO and .308 Winchester are NOT identical; the NATO cartridge has a slightly more generous range. You will almost certainly be getting .308 Win headspace gauges (7.62 NATO gauges are quite scarce), so the "GO" and "NO-GO" notations on the gauges are not nearly as important as the actual measurements listed on the gauges. If your headspace falls outside the acceptable range for both .308 and 7.62 NATO, you'll have to replace the locking shoulder. This is where those pin gauges come in.

It would behoove you to visit FALfiles and read up on the headspacing stickies before diving in.

I purchased 2 Forster head space gauges in 7.62 NATO one min and one max. I really hope they come in as 7.62 NATO since thats what I paid for.

Updated the original post with another question.

Never set headspace with a live round.

Will it close on a go gauge?

Will it close on a no go gauge?

Did you remove extractor to check headspace?

If the bolt closes on a no go gauge it may still be in spec. Check to see if it closes
on a field gauge before changing locking shoulder.

Good luck

I did not remove the extractor but neither the go or no-go gauge would go in. Would the extractor make it where they bolt would not close?

You definitely do not want to be using a loaded round for headspacing. Even if you were to pull the bullet and dump the powder, you still are checking headspace with a malleable "gauge" whose dimensions you do not know.  
The extractor should be removed if you want to get accurate results from your headspace gauges. You're dealing with differences of a few thousandths of an inch total.
Assuming the bolt still will not close on your 7.62 GO after extractor removal, you'll only need a .308 "GO" gauge to see if your headspace is too "tight". As you can see in the list below, it is entirely possible that your headspace is correct for .308 Win.

If your bolt will not close even on the .308 GO gauge, do not despair. It will cost you only a little more $ and time to correct your headspace. Remove your existing locking shoulder by pressing (not hammering) it out. Measure it, and order a couple of smaller pin gauges. Follow the headspacing instructions stickied on FALfiles under the "Gunsmithing" forum, or the ones in your Gunplumber's manual to determine what size locking shoulder you need, order it, make sure the foot fits, lube it and press it in. Done.

For reference:

"GO" for .308 is 1.6300"
"GO" for 7.62 is 1.6355"

"NO-GO" for .308 is 1.6340"
"NO-GO" for 7.62 is 1.6405"

"FIELD" for .308 is 1.6380"
"FIELD" for 7.62 is 1.6455"

Took it to a local gun builder and the head space was set for 308 win. So it is good to go just waiting on mags now to set the gas system.