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Posted: 4/5/2017 3:40:31 PM EDT
Stock is beautiful,This is the "slim" profile, locks up tight and only one small fitment issue to correct on the front sling swivel because it is. ot seated all the way. Also eliminated my gas cylinder wobble for now.  I need to check and see if the op rod is contacting anywhere . Width is very close to WW2 stock . Grain is good but finish is a little light.  Not sure what was used and what I need to add to bring the grain out. Stock shipped fast and was packed good. Email notifications were sent right away . Before and after pics. 
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Link Posted: 4/6/2017 8:14:31 AM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
Stock is beautiful,This is the "slim" profile, locks up tight and only one small fitment issue to correct on the front sling swivel because it is. ot seated all the way. Also eliminated my gas cylinder wobble for now.  I need to check and see if the op rod is contacting anywhere . Width is very close to WW2 stock . Grain is good but finish is a little light.  Not sure what was used and what I need to add to bring the grain out. Stock shipped fast and was packed good. Email notifications were sent right away . Before and after pics. 
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/213498/IMG-1595-181590.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/213498/IMG-1761-181592.JPG
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Looks great! I would've run a few coats of BLO over it before attaching everything, though ... You can still do that, but it's somewhat easier with the individual stock pieces off the rifle so none of the BLO gets smeared on the metal.
Link Posted: 4/6/2017 11:38:33 AM EDT
[#2]
Yea debating blo or tung oil.   Parts are easy to remove
Link Posted: 4/6/2017 6:01:04 PM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
Yea debating blo or tung oil.   Parts are easy to remove
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Yes, but the general rule of thumb for M1s & M1As is that , unlike ARs, you don't want to be ripping the barreled action out of the stock any more times than necessary, since doing so affects accuracy.

Over 25+years of shooting M1 Garands, for example, I've found that it takes about 2-to-3 clips, and sometimes 4, to get my most accurate M1s to "settle" back into their stocks and thereby tighten groups up again, after a cleaning where I removed the stock off the action.

9 out of 10 times, I try to clean my M1s without removing the stock just for that reason.
Link Posted: 4/6/2017 8:12:21 PM EDT
[#4]
Sound advice.  Lock up is really tight
Link Posted: 4/7/2017 12:02:58 AM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:
Yea debating blo or tung oil.   Parts are easy to remove
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BLO will turn reddish brown, and eventually give the appearance of old military stocks. Tung oil usually won't change colors.
Link Posted: 4/7/2017 10:26:59 PM EDT
[#6]
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BLO will turn reddish brown, and eventually give the appearance of old military stocks. Tung oil usually won't change colors.
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RLO will for sure.  I don't know about BLO though.  I've got some stocks that are ~9 years old that were finished with BLO and they've not changed from their original color much.
Link Posted: 4/7/2017 11:51:21 PM EDT
[#7]
I like and use BLO a lot. I've been using it long enough to see a amber tint to the rifle wood after a few years. It deepens into a darker brown ten years or so down the line.
Link Posted: 4/8/2017 12:13:05 AM EDT
[#8]
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Quoted:
RLO will for sure.  I don't know about BLO though.  I've got some stocks that are ~9 years old that were finished with BLO and they've not changed from their original color much.
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Quoted:
Quoted:


BLO will turn reddish brown, and eventually give the appearance of old military stocks. Tung oil usually won't change colors.
RLO will for sure.  I don't know about BLO though.  I've got some stocks that are ~9 years old that were finished with BLO and they've not changed from their original color much.
Correct.  Raw linseed oil will change with age to produce that beautiful reddish tone.  Boiled linseed oil is stable over the long term.

//break//

Beautiful stock, OP!
Link Posted: 4/8/2017 8:54:35 AM EDT
[#9]
BLO will change, but it won't change as fast.  My usual procedure, if I want the USGI look, is to rub on one coat of Raw Linseed Oil(Flaxseed oil is the same thing, only food grade), then go over that will a couple of coats of BLO.
Same stock finished in BLO, a couple of years apart.




Link Posted: 4/8/2017 10:02:01 AM EDT
[#10]
On a raw stock i use garandgears 50/50 blend and then use PTO.
Link Posted: 4/10/2017 7:20:22 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 4/23/2017 2:20:33 AM EDT
[#12]
Teak Oil is what I use. I read it's a blend of Tung oil and Boiled linseed oil.
Link Posted: 5/21/2017 11:41:27 AM EDT
[#13]
I applied three coats of BLO hand rubbed on a CMP stock I bought from a member but I think its too light. I want to go darker. observations please

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Link Posted: 5/21/2017 12:05:01 PM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:
I applied three coats of BLO hand rubbed on a CMP stock I bought from a member but I think its too light. I want to go darker. observations please

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/254602/M1-hand-guard-213067.JPG
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Try putting it in the sun for a few days
Link Posted: 5/21/2017 1:38:19 PM EDT
[#15]
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Quoted:
Try putting it in the sun for a few days
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I'll do that and post another picture after a few days.


spelling
Link Posted: 5/22/2017 10:08:09 AM EDT
[#16]
As long as they lock up tight am I the only one who likes the beat up dented stocks on my M1 Garands?
Link Posted: 5/22/2017 12:55:20 PM EDT
[#17]
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As long as they lock up tight am I the only one who likes the beat up dented stocks on my M1 Garands?
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I'm the opposite. When I buy a gun, I want it to be as new looking as possible. I was thrilled to get a brand new stock on my service grade Garand. If it didn't have that CMP marking, I would have the appropriate period markings (or cartouches, whatever you want to call them) applied.
Link Posted: 5/22/2017 3:49:48 PM EDT
[#18]
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As long as they lock up tight am I the only one who likes the beat up dented stocks on my M1 Garands?
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Well, sometimes it's both.  My is beat to heck, AND it doesn't lock up tight at all.  I use some business cards underneath the magazine plate.  It still seems to shoot pretty decent.
Link Posted: 5/23/2017 7:53:52 AM EDT
[#19]
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Quoted:
Well, sometimes it's both.  My is beat to heck, AND it doesn't lock up tight at all.  I use some business cards underneath the magazine plate.  It still seems to shoot pretty decent.  
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Quoted:
Quoted:
As long as they lock up tight am I the only one who likes the beat up dented stocks on my M1 Garands?
Well, sometimes it's both.  My is beat to heck, AND it doesn't lock up tight at all.  I use some business cards underneath the magazine plate.  It still seems to shoot pretty decent.  
I've done that same "tightening-up" mod using strips of wood veneer edging. The strips were cut, shaped, and glued to surface of the stock under the trigger guard/magazine plate, as well as on the back side of the trigger guard. If done right, you should need a rubber mallet to pound the trigger guard closed.

It's the single most effective "accurizing" mod you can do with a sloppy old stock, at least short of full match-prep glass bedding. I've done it on 6 of my M1s   - '06s and .308s, full-size as well as to my 18" Tanker and 16" Mini-G. It definitely helped shrink groups.

I did discover, however, that it typically takes about 4- or 5-clips of shooting for the action to get "settled" or "seated" into the new (tighter) fit of the stock. Once seated though, the groups on target were consistently tighter and yielded a more consistent POI.

But be advised that after this accurizing method takes effect, you must always try to clean your M1 WITHOUT removing the action from the stock. Otherwise, each removal will slightly degrade and alter the tightness or "pressure" of the fit from the last time the action was "seated" in the stock when you put rounds down range.
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