When do you know when to replace any of the springs in the Garand? I've probably only shot ~400 rounds total through my CMP Service Grade, but lately it's been acting up and having feeding and ejection problems. I recently stripped, cleaned, and greased everything but it still had 3-4 jams at the range. Does it mean I just need to replace the springs?

Should I just get the Wolf replacement spring pack and replace all the springs? Or go USGI?

I like Wolff springs--but not for the Garand.

Try to find some Orion 7 operating rod springs.  If you can't find some of those, order some Fulton Armory springs from Brownells.

You should probably change your operating rod spring every 1000 to 1500 rounds.

A worn out operating rod spring can result in a cracked receiver heel.

You might also want to change the clip latch spring.  This spring is very important insofar as the timing of the rifle is concerned.  Brownells has them and they are cheap.

Google "My armorer's rant on op rod springs" and you will find a wonderful piece on the importance of changing your springs.

I agree with the poster above.
I've seen many Garands where the clip latch pin was virtually seized or gummed up so bad it wouldn't move.

As far as the Garand op rod spring goes, it is not tested by measuring free length so that complicates things.
It is usually easier to just replace it.

I would also verify that your gas system is clean, the gas plug is tight  and that the rifle passes the tilt test.

A few years back, on another forum, a very experienced M1/M1A/M14 gunsmith posted that the minimum length for an M1 Garand operating rod spring should be no less than 19".

Master Gunnery Sergeant Gus Fisher

Here is a link to orion 7

Op rod spring should measure 19.0" to 20.25 in length with no kinks, bends or flat spots. If it is in these specs there is no reason to replace it
Wolff extra power springs may cause short stroking. IMO Orion 7's are the best
There is no need to randomly replace springs if they dont need it. If you want help PM me and I can walk you through the steps to fix your rifle

No need to PM anybody.

Just read what the Master Gun has to say:

http://m14forum.com/gus-fisher/111672-what-do-if-your-m1-garand-does-not-function.html



And here's what the Master Gun says about springs:


http://m14forum.com/gus-fisher/108507-my-armorer-s-rant-op-rod-springs.html

What Gus mentions only covers a few things. In fact the OP never gave detailed descripition of what is happening. People suggesting replacing clip latch springs without knowing exacting what the rifle is doing  is ridiculous and a waste of money

Oh, how many Garands have you built or ever trouble shot before Fluff?? None huh . Maybe you shouldnt offer advice

I would take Gus Fisher's advice before I would ask for your opinion.  And the OP should only take your advice if he would like to learn how to become thoroughly disliked.

Whats the matter Fluff, cant take the truth?
OP my offer still stands

The truth is that you are not the great genius that you think you are.  

Gus Fisher is the greatest living Garand armorer and there is no need for anyone to listen to you.

A clip latch spring is only $6.00.
If you replace every spring in a Garand you will spend around $30.00

If you have a rifle of unknown pedigree it isn't a bad place to start.

I agree but even then the rifle may still not function. As I stated earlier the OP needs to give a detailed description of what the rifle is doing as well what is stamped on the enblocs and what ammo is being used

This is the problem now a days...just throw new springs at a rifle..that'll fix it!

Unless you KNOW EXACTLY what is wrong..you are just "guessing"..


What is the length of your oprod CURRENT spring?

Is it PROPERLY greased and lubed...
Has you chamber been THOROUGHLY cleaned...
these are the important questions...

Well said

What is a "tilt test"?

A tilt test is when you remove the op rod spring and tilt the barreled action (with bolt and op rod still in place) up or down, allowing gravity to act on the op rod/bolt combo and move it. It should move freely without binding. If it binds somewhere, that's where your op rod is not shaped properly, or there's too much friction being placed against it by something in the way.

Agree with this.

Most M1 owners have no means (tools/gauges) with which to weigh compressed spring poundage.

That's why all the U.S. M1 Garand FM manuals specify the range of length as being the uncompressed length of the spring when measured end to end. That can be done easily at home or in the field. That range is: minimum uncompressed = 19"; max uncompressed = 20.25"

I've used only Orion 7 springs in my "full-size" Garands with no issues.

As far as Wolff's XP op rod springs, they do have a place in the M1 world.  The  XP "Tanker" spring is what Shuff uses in his Mini-G builds, in conjunction with the Schuster adjustable gas plug,  to essentially reduce the violence of the reciprocation by tuning the M1 gas system to the ammo   - allowing just enough gas to reliably cycle the action but without damaging it. The XP spring and the adj. plug work together.

The Wolff XP Op rod springs in my 7.62/.308 18" Tanker and my 30.06 16.1" Mini-G have run perfectly. The only caveat is that after about 600-rds I replace them with new as a precaution.

Hey, isn't that what all the 20-something AR "armorers" do these days?

Say your AR ain't functioning? ... No problem. We'll do a full spring-set replacement and drop in a heavier buffer to help slam-home that next round.  

I would do this with the barreled action locked into the stock with the trigger housing in place.  The op rod can rub an improperly made/improperly fitted stock.  Might not be a regular thing, but it can happen.

And no, I'm not a gun smith.  It's just another place rubbing can occur and cause issues.

Good luck with it.