CMP...speeding up? **Now the Garand Thread - Page 7

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Posted: 7/19/2016 1:21:48 PM EDT

[#1]

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So jelly of that wood, holy shit

Seriously though, we've gotten some nice rifles the past few days. None of that repark shit.

Posted: 7/19/2016 1:59:54 PM EDT

[#2]

So, if I wanted to clean the wood; because I do. I'm not looking to refinish it I just want to clean some of the grime off what would I use? Tung Oil?

Posted: 7/19/2016 2:05:29 PM EDT

[#3]

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Quoted:
So, if I wanted to clean the wood; because I do. I'm not looking to refinish it I just want to clean some of the grime off what would I use? Tung Oil?

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I'm wondering this too. I don't want to change the patina too much at all but it is dry and also has a bit of dirt rubbed into it. In theory both of these are after they started using tung oil instead of the linseed oil but would BLO be a better option? Not looking to darken it, just refresh the wood and remove the loose grime and dirt.

Posted: 7/19/2016 2:08:15 PM EDT

[#4]

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Quoted:

I'm wondering this too. I don't want to change the patina too much at all but it is dry and also has a bit of dirt rubbed into it. In theory both of these are after they started using tung oil instead of the linseed oil but would BLO be a better option? Not looking to darken it, just refresh the wood and remove the loose grime and dirt.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
So, if I wanted to clean the wood; because I do. I'm not looking to refinish it I just want to clean some of the grime off what would I use? Tung Oil?

I'm wondering this too. I don't want to change the patina too much at all but it is dry and also has a bit of dirt rubbed into it. In theory both of these are after they started using tung oil instead of the linseed oil but would BLO be a better option? Not looking to darken it, just refresh the wood and remove the loose grime and dirt.

I figured I'd wait to take more-better pictures I'd clean the stock and lube the metal bits first.

Posted: 7/19/2016 2:24:01 PM EDT

[#5]

Edit - This is basically mineral oil; it'll clean and give a decent oiling

Posted: 7/19/2016 5:12:02 PM EDT

[#6]

Quote History

Quoted:
Edit - This is basically mineral oil; it'll clean and give a decent oiling

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/4d/4da81f01-91ea-4b11-ad8c-33b4f3caa6a8_400.jpg

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Not to mention your M1 will have a nice lemony scent.

Posted: 7/19/2016 5:46:03 PM EDT

[#7]

Found another mark on the left side of the stock.

Looks like, "SA" in a box, there's some other letters in it that I can't read.

</a>" />

Found a, "43" inside the stock.

</a>" />

" />

Posted: 7/19/2016 6:02:22 PM EDT

[#8]

http://www.trfindley.com/pgsnstmpsm1.html

Posted: 7/19/2016 7:58:22 PM EDT

[#9]

just got the ship notice for my service grade (nothing on the field grade I ordered with it)

SN 5639XXX, looks like an HRA for me

Glad for that since I do not have one yet.

Posted: 7/19/2016 9:01:59 PM EDT

[#10]

K1 (or anyone else) I'm taking you up on your kind offer to give what info/knowledge you might have

Posted: 7/19/2016 9:13:31 PM EDT

[#11]

i see nothing of real note there except a very solid garand and maybe an all HRA trigger group

and since many of you are new garand owners, let me suggest that you replace your op rod spring

these are very old guns and that spring does a whole bunch of shit in operation of the rifle, including keeping the bolt from beating the back of the receiver to death

ETA: in the past i've gotten all my garand stuff through orion 7

Posted: 7/19/2016 10:43:07 PM EDT

[#12]

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Quoted:
Found another mark on the left side of the stock.

Looks like, "SA" in a box, there's some other letters in it that I can't read.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_174335.jpg</a>" />

Found a, "43" inside the stock.
http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_175149.jpg</a>" />

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_175701.jpg</a>" />

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_175551.jpg</a>" />

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Nice SA marks in there. I looked at mine some more too after looking at yours. Mine also has a very hard to read SA but I can't see what letters were under it. Just too worn in that area.

Posted: 7/20/2016 7:05:50 AM EDT

[#13]

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Quoted:
i see nothing of real note there except a very solid garand and maybe an all HRA trigger group

and since many of you are new garand owners, let me suggest that you replace your op rod spring

these are very old guns and that spring does a whole bunch of shit in operation of the rifle, including keeping the bolt from beating the back of the receiver to death

ETA: in the past i've gotten all my garand stuff through orion 7

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Quoted:
i see nothing of real note there except a very solid garand and maybe an all HRA trigger group

and since many of you are new garand owners, let me suggest that you replace your op rod spring

these are very old guns and that spring does a whole bunch of shit in operation of the rifle, including keeping the bolt from beating the back of the receiver to death

ETA: in the past i've gotten all my garand stuff through orion 7

Do you recommend Fulton Armory for an OP Rod spring? They have a kit that has all the springs.

Quoted:

Quoted:
Found another mark on the left side of the stock.

Looks like, "SA" in a box, there's some other letters in it that I can't read.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_174335.jpg</a>" />

Found a, "43" inside the stock.
http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_175149.jpg</a>" />

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_175701.jpg</a>" />

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_175551.jpg</a>" />

Nice SA marks in there. I looked at mine some more too after looking at yours. Mine also has a very hard to read SA but I can't see what letters were under it. Just too worn in that area.

I ordered some Watco Rejuvenating Oil last night; couldn't find it locally. I'm hoping it cleans the wood up a bit so I can see if there are other markings. The wood in places is black because there is so much stuff built up on it.

Posted: 7/20/2016 8:11:26 AM EDT

[#14]

Orion 7 has a full spring kit.

When you go to use the oil; let the rifle soak in the sun for a little bit to open up the wood grain. I wouldn't recommend oiling in the sun, just use the sun to get the wood opened up.

Posted: 7/20/2016 8:18:57 AM EDT

[#15]

Quote History

)

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160718_213631.jpg</a>" />

The safety has a little SA marked on it but I didn't see any numbers. But to be honest, I didn't look that hard at it.

I'm sorry some of the pictures are upside down. I took them and uploaded them last night; I was tired. Also, thanks for the help.

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Looks like you have 3 rebuilds, and in one of the rebuilds they scrubbed the stock. OGEK is Ogden Arsenal and the head guy in charge was Elmer Keith. This accounts for one circle P. The 2nd rebuild is obliterated to the point where it's anyones guess. IHC bolt could have been used anytime during their production. Post war Op-Rod anytime after 4.mil to the end of production. The trigger housing was used in the 3.3mil-3.45mil range. Hammer in the 3.1-3.4mil range.

The wood looks like Birch

Posted: 7/20/2016 8:25:35 AM EDT

[#16]

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You've go a nice SA WWII era stock. Unfortunately during one of the rebuilds they sanded off the cartouches. 3.5mil SN puts it right near war's end time frame of MAR 1945. I honestly have no idea where those stamps are from. A.O.C and A AB are new to me. The uncut -6 oprod was used from 2.25-3.45mil...it's also the most valuable thing on your rifle. Uncut rods go for $200-300 depending on condition. If I were you I would consider getting a beater op rod to shoot the rifle with to save the wear and tear on that item. Cracks can occur at the uncut portion, though that was mostly due to firing rifle grenades and not keeping up on spring replacements

Posted: 7/20/2016 8:26:08 AM EDT

[#17]

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Quoted:

Looks like you have 3 rebuilds, and in one of the rebuilds they scrubbed the stock. OGEK is Ogden Arsenal and the head guy in charge was Elmer Keith. This accounts for one circle P. The 2nd rebuild is obliterated to the point where it's anyones guess. IHC bolt could have been used anytime during their production. Post war Op-Rod anytime after 4.mil to the end of production. The trigger housing was used in the 3.3mil-3.45mil range. Hammer in the 3.1-3.4mil range.

The wood looks like Birch

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Quoted:

)
http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160718_213631.jpg</a>" />

The safety has a little SA marked on it but I didn't see any numbers. But to be honest, I didn't look that hard at it.

I'm sorry some of the pictures are upside down. I took them and uploaded them last night; I was tired. Also, thanks for the help.

Looks like you have 3 rebuilds, and in one of the rebuilds they scrubbed the stock. OGEK is Ogden Arsenal and the head guy in charge was Elmer Keith. This accounts for one circle P. The 2nd rebuild is obliterated to the point where it's anyones guess. IHC bolt could have been used anytime during their production. Post war Op-Rod anytime after 4.mil to the end of production. The trigger housing was used in the 3.3mil-3.45mil range. Hammer in the 3.1-3.4mil range.

The wood looks like Birch

Yeah, it's birch. I rubbed a bit of it with a dry rag last night and it has a nice red hue to it. I'm really interested in seeing how it looks after it's cleaned up. What you're saying is that I have a FrankenGarand. I'm OK with that since all of my ARs except for one are Frankenguns.

Posted: 7/20/2016 8:30:24 AM EDT

[#18]

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Quoted:

Found another mark on the left side of the stock.

Looks like, "SA" in a box, there's some other letters in it that I can't read.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_174335.jpg</a>" />

Found a, "43" inside the stock.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_175149.jpg</a>" />

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_175701.jpg</a>" />

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_175551.jpg</a>" />

View Quote

it LOOKS like it might be S.A./G.H.S. which would put that from sn 78000-700000. The reason I am thinking that is the case is you have a Type 2A stock. You have a skinny barrel channel. In later stocks they modified the barrel channels to have less wood there. Your stock is definately a rare one. I would look to get a beater stock set just to keep some wear and tear off it. Leaving your trigger guard unlatched an not compressing the wood is a good idea. No idea what the 43 means.

Posted: 7/20/2016 8:34:19 AM EDT

[#19]

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Quoted:

it LOOKS like it might be S.A./G.H.S. which would put that from sn 78000-700000. The reason I am thinking that is the case is you have a Type 2A stock. You have a skinny barrel channel. In later stocks they modified the barrel channels to have less wood there. Your stock is definately a rare one. I would look to get a beater stock set just to keep some wear and tear off it. Leaving your trigger guard unlatched an not compressing the wood is a good idea. No idea what the 43 means.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
Found another mark on the left side of the stock.

Looks like, "SA" in a box, there's some other letters in it that I can't read.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_174335.jpg</a>" />

Found a, "43" inside the stock.
http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_175149.jpg</a>" />

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_175701.jpg</a>" />

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160719_175551.jpg</a>" />

it LOOKS like it might be S.A./G.H.S. which would put that from sn 78000-700000. The reason I am thinking that is the case is you have a Type 2A stock. You have a skinny barrel channel. In later stocks they modified the barrel channels to have less wood there. Your stock is definately a rare one. I would look to get a beater stock set just to keep some wear and tear off it. Leaving your trigger guard unlatched an not compressing the wood is a good idea. No idea what the 43 means.

Oddly enough, I was actually looking at stocks from Fulton Armory and was contemplating it.

Posted: 7/20/2016 8:35:42 AM EDT

[#20]

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K1 (or anyone else) I'm taking you up on your kind offer to give what info/knowledge you might have

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June 1944 SN with post war sights and post war SA barrel. Looks like a Type 1 gas lock and narrow base gas cylinder as well as a complete HRA trigger group. Arched handguard band, birch post war stock. I'm guessing no markings on it besides a non-circle P on the grip area. It looks like an overton from the shape of it. Op Rod is a cut -3 which would have been used from 291-940 THOUSAND. The -12 bolt was used from 550,000 to 3.2mil. You can sometimes narrow it down further with the heat lot codes but I don't have that sheet handy right now.

Posted: 7/20/2016 8:37:43 AM EDT

[#21]

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Quoted:

Edit - This is basically mineral oil; it'll clean and give a decent oiling
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/4d/4da81f01-91ea-4b11-ad8c-33b4f3caa6a8_400.jpg

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You can use this...though I honestly just use more RLO/BLO. It dissolved and removes some of the dirt every time you oil the stock. Your rags will come off blackened for quite a while but it will lighten up. Denatured alcohol is the harshest I would go with chemicals. I know some people have had luck using different kinds of soaps too.

ETA: I also got some kind of shit news at work yesterday. I have a course and a PCS coming up fast and in a hurry, so if I'm not around much after this week that's why.

Posted: 7/20/2016 8:45:43 AM EDT

[#22]

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You can use this...though I honestly just use more RLO/BLO. It dissolved and removes some of the dirt every time you oil the stock. Your rags will come off blackened for quite a while but it will lighten up. Denatured alcohol is the harshest I would go with chemicals. I know some people have had luck using different kinds of soaps too.

ETA: I also got some kind of shit news at work yesterday. I have a course and a PCS coming up fast and in a hurry, so if I'm not around much after this week that's why.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
Edit - This is basically mineral oil; it'll clean and give a decent oiling

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/4d/4da81f01-91ea-4b11-ad8c-33b4f3caa6a8_400.jpg

You can use this...though I honestly just use more RLO/BLO. It dissolved and removes some of the dirt every time you oil the stock. Your rags will come off blackened for quite a while but it will lighten up. Denatured alcohol is the harshest I would go with chemicals. I know some people have had luck using different kinds of soaps too.

ETA: I also got some kind of shit news at work yesterday. I have a course and a PCS coming up fast and in a hurry, so if I'm not around much after this week that's why.

Thanks. I wasn't sure what to use on the stock. I don't want to damage it.

It also sucks you won't be around much.

But good luck on your course.

Posted: 7/20/2016 9:22:59 AM EDT

[#23]

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Thanks. I wasn't sure what to use on the stock. I don't want to damage it.

It also sucks you won't be around much.

But good luck on your course.

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Quoted:

Quoted:

Edit - This is basically mineral oil; it'll clean and give a decent oiling

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/4d/4da81f01-91ea-4b11-ad8c-33b4f3caa6a8_400.jpg

You can use this...though I honestly just use more RLO/BLO. It dissolved and removes some of the dirt every time you oil the stock. Your rags will come off blackened for quite a while but it will lighten up. Denatured alcohol is the harshest I would go with chemicals. I know some people have had luck using different kinds of soaps too.
ETA: I also got some kind of shit news at work yesterday. I have a course and a PCS coming up fast and in a hurry, so if I'm not around much after this week that's why.

Thanks. I wasn't sure what to use on the stock. I don't want to damage it.

It also sucks you won't be around much.

But good luck on your course.

Always go with the least damaging option whenever possible. There's plenty of posts and websites about stock cleaning. do NOT use a dishwasher, oven cleaner, or anything like that. There's been some success with powdered soap and a damp cloth done sparingly and not trying to clean everything. Other guys do the DA or mineral sprits, or just put more BLO/RLO/TO on there and let it clean over time.

Posted: 7/20/2016 10:09:41 AM EDT

[#24]

k1 is the man

Field grade was just delivered. Is it time to go home yet?

Posted: 7/20/2016 10:54:19 AM EDT

[#25]

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k1 is the man

Field grade was just delivered. Is it time to go home yet?

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Tell the boss you aren't feeling well.

Posted: 7/20/2016 3:20:08 PM EDT

[#26]

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Tell the boss you aren't feeling well.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
k1 is the man

Field grade was just delivered. Is it time to go home yet?

Tell the boss you aren't feeling well.

M1 flue.

Posted: 7/20/2016 5:29:45 PM EDT

[#27]

Brooke the rifle down as much as I could to clean and I noticed this.

</a>" />

I'm thinking it's not but thought I'd ask anyway. Is this going to be a problem in firing it? Like I said I don't think so but I just wanted to double check.

I also started to apply some boiled linseed oil and it's removing the black greasy spots. But I'm just using a rag top apply it then another rash to write the excess off. I might get some 00 steel wood to work the BLO in to the really dark spots. It's actually bringing the color out again. I found another cartouche next to the box that has the SA GHS (Yes, it says SA GHS). I can't make anything out of it though.

Posted: 7/20/2016 10:04:46 PM EDT

[#28]

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Quoted:

Brooke the rifle down as much as I could to clean and I noticed this.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160720_172135.jpg</a>" />

I'm thinking it's not but thought I'd ask anyway. Is this going to be a problem in firing it? Like I said I don't think so but I just wanted to double check.
I also started to apply some boiled linseed oil and it's removing the black greasy spots. But I'm just using a rag top apply it then another rash to write the excess off. I might get some 00 steel wood to work the BLO in to the really dark spots. It's actually bringing the color out again. I found another cartouche next to the box that has the SA GHS (Yes, it says SA GHS). I can't make anything out of it though.

View Quote

Smaller about half the size? Probably crossed cannons (ordnance wheel).

As for the rust is it in the chamber? If so I would contact customer service and see about a replacement barrel. Obviously tell them you do not wish to exchange the rifle you just want a new barrel on it.

<ETA>Fuckin nailed it with that cartouche ID.

Posted: 7/20/2016 10:31:55 PM EDT

[#29]

Quote History

Quoted:

You've go a nice SA WWII era stock. Unfortunately during one of the rebuilds they sanded off the cartouches. 3.5mil SN puts it right near war's end time frame of MAR 1945. I honestly have no idea where those stamps are from. A.O.C and A AB are new to me. The uncut -6 oprod was used from 2.25-3.45mil...it's also the most valuable thing on your rifle. Uncut rods go for $200-300 depending on condition. If I were you I would consider getting a beater op rod to shoot the rifle with to save the wear and tear on that item. Cracks can occur at the uncut portion, though that was mostly due to firing rifle grenades and not keeping up on spring replacements

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Quoted:

You've go a nice SA WWII era stock. Unfortunately during one of the rebuilds they sanded off the cartouches. 3.5mil SN puts it right near war's end time frame of MAR 1945. I honestly have no idea where those stamps are from. A.O.C and A AB are new to me. The uncut -6 oprod was used from 2.25-3.45mil...it's also the most valuable thing on your rifle. Uncut rods go for $200-300 depending on condition. If I were you I would consider getting a beater op rod to shoot the rifle with to save the wear and tear on that item. Cracks can occur at the uncut portion, though that was mostly due to firing rifle grenades and not keeping up on spring replacements

Still working on the AOC markings but the AAB is coming up as a known Augusta Arsenal rebuild mark. (Mine actually says "AAB3" but the 3 is hard to see and I did not notice it until I saw another one on a forum that had the 3 there as well.) It was used on 1903's, 1917's and M1 Carbines and Garands. The only difference I am seeing is the ones I'm finding on the net have serifs but other AA inspectors marks are block just like mine so probably just a variation of this mark. All of them are individual letter stamps and not a single stamp.

Here's a linky to a National Rifleman article on M1 rebuilds. https://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2015/12/10/from-the-american-rifleman-archives-in-the-system-m1-garand-rebuilds/

Posted: 7/20/2016 11:08:51 PM EDT

[#30]

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Quoted:
As for the rust is it in the chamber? If so I would contact customer service and see about a replacement barrel. Obviously tell them you do not wish to exchange the rifle you just want a new barrel on it.

View Quote

That looks like dried grease/grime to me. I have received several CMP rifles with that crap dried on. I bet it cleans off.

Posted: 7/20/2016 11:27:46 PM EDT

[#31]

Just received my second service grade garand from CMP today. 10976xx serial, so Jan-43. It appears to have the original barrel dated 12/42 with 1+ for both throat and muzzle.

Stock is GI wood with the only marking 'O.G.' so must have been rebuilt by Ogden Armory in Utah.

Appears to have been re-paked at some point. All the parts are nice and dark - barely looks used. I have it broken down for cleaning this weekend

.

Posted: 7/21/2016 6:34:02 AM EDT

[#32]

Man, the FG I received yesterday is awesome.

Appears to be an unmolested RRAD rebuild. All the parts have a consistent bright silver park. LMR barrel 2/2. No RRAD on the receiver, but stock has part of an "R" and "AD" right next to it. A bunch of cartouches on the stock I need to look over. Machined trigger guard.

Posted: 7/21/2016 6:47:36 AM EDT

[#33]

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Quoted:

That looks like dried grease/grime to me. I have received several CMP rifles with that crap dried on. I bet it cleans off.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
As for the rust is it in the chamber? If so I would contact customer service and see about a replacement barrel. Obviously tell them you do not wish to exchange the rifle you just want a new barrel on it.

That looks like dried grease/grime to me. I have received several CMP rifles with that crap dried on. I bet it cleans off.

That's what I'm hoping. I've gotta pick up a chamber brush because I've got nothing to clean it well enough out.

Oh and holy hell, I just re-read my post from last night. Why the fuck is auto correct so retarded. I need to stop posting from my phone.

Posted: 7/21/2016 6:50:07 AM EDT

[#34]

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Quoted:

Smaller about half the size? Probably crossed cannons (ordnance wheel).

As for the rust is it in the chamber? If so I would contact customer service and see about a replacement barrel. Obviously tell them you do not wish to exchange the rifle you just want a new barrel on it.

<ETA>Fuckin nailed it with that cartouche ID.

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Quoted:

Quoted:
Brooke the rifle down as much as I could to clean and I noticed this.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160720_172135.jpg</a>" />

I'm thinking it's not but thought I'd ask anyway. Is this going to be a problem in firing it? Like I said I don't think so but I just wanted to double check.

I also started to apply some boiled linseed oil and it's removing the black greasy spots. But I'm just using a rag top apply it then another rash to write the excess off. I might get some 00 steel wood to work the BLO in to the really dark spots. It's actually bringing the color out again. I found another cartouche next to the box that has the SA GHS (Yes, it says SA GHS). I can't make anything out of it though.

Smaller about half the size? Probably crossed cannons (ordnance wheel).

As for the rust is it in the chamber? If so I would contact customer service and see about a replacement barrel. Obviously tell them you do not wish to exchange the rifle you just want a new barrel on it.

<ETA>Fuckin nailed it with that cartouche ID.

Yes, the other cartouche is smaller and about half the size. It's so faded that I can't really tell what it is. You may be right though. You did nail the SA cartouche.

Posted: 7/21/2016 8:50:46 AM EDT

[#35]

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Yes, the other cartouche is smaller and about half the size. It's so faded that I can't really tell what it is. You may be right though. You did nail the SA cartouche.

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Quoted:

Quoted:

Brooke the rifle down as much as I could to clean and I noticed this.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160720_172135.jpg</a>" />

I'm thinking it's not but thought I'd ask anyway. Is this going to be a problem in firing it? Like I said I don't think so but I just wanted to double check.
I also started to apply some boiled linseed oil and it's removing the black greasy spots. But I'm just using a rag top apply it then another rash to write the excess off. I might get some 00 steel wood to work the BLO in to the really dark spots. It's actually bringing the color out again. I found another cartouche next to the box that has the SA GHS (Yes, it says SA GHS). I can't make anything out of it though.

Smaller about half the size? Probably crossed cannons (ordnance wheel).

As for the rust is it in the chamber? If so I would contact customer service and see about a replacement barrel. Obviously tell them you do not wish to exchange the rifle you just want a new barrel on it.

<ETA>Fuckin nailed it with that cartouche ID.

Yes, the other cartouche is smaller and about half the size. It's so faded that I can't really tell what it is. You may be right though. You did nail the SA cartouche.

THis is what it should look like

Posted: 7/21/2016 9:05:59 AM EDT

[#36]

Quote History

Quoted:

THis is what it should look like

http://tse3.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.M2ecd1879fb60afee3fe9345bb6011707o0&pid=15.1

View Quote View All Quotes

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
Brooke the rifle down as much as I could to clean and I noticed this.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160720_172135.jpg</a>" />

I'm thinking it's not but thought I'd ask anyway. Is this going to be a problem in firing it? Like I said I don't think so but I just wanted to double check.

I also started to apply some boiled linseed oil and it's removing the black greasy spots. But I'm just using a rag top apply it then another rash to write the excess off. I might get some 00 steel wood to work the BLO in to the really dark spots. It's actually bringing the color out again. I found another cartouche next to the box that has the SA GHS (Yes, it says SA GHS). I can't make anything out of it though.

Smaller about half the size? Probably crossed cannons (ordnance wheel).

As for the rust is it in the chamber? If so I would contact customer service and see about a replacement barrel. Obviously tell them you do not wish to exchange the rifle you just want a new barrel on it.

<ETA>Fuckin nailed it with that cartouche ID.

Yes, the other cartouche is smaller and about half the size. It's so faded that I can't really tell what it is. You may be right though. You did nail the SA cartouche.

THis is what it should look like

http://tse3.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.M2ecd1879fb60afee3fe9345bb6011707o0&pid=15.1

The one on the left is definitely whats on my stock and the one on the right is circular like that one but I can't really see it. It's either faded or just so full of crap that I can't read it.

Posted: 7/21/2016 4:56:19 PM EDT

[#37]

Grabbed me some #00 and #0000 steel wool and I started scrubbing with BLO after work today. Took a lot of the black off. There's still some black but it's looking much better.

You can see the two cartouches better now. The one on the left definitely says SA G.H.S. , and the one on the right is the Springfield crossed cannons; when the wood is wet from the BLO they both really stand out.

" />

Here's a sharpened picture of it when I brought it home.

" />

Here it is after scrubbing it with steel wool.

" />

These other pictures I was just messing around with some features on my phone.

" />

Posted: 7/21/2016 7:54:06 PM EDT

[#38]

Quote History

Quoted:

Grabbed me some #00 and #0000 steel wool and I started scrubbing with BLO after work today. Took a lot of the black off. There's still some black but it's looking much better.
You can see the two cartouches better now. The one on the left definitely says SA G.H.S. , and the one on the right is the Springfield crossed cannons; when the wood is wet from the BLO they both really stand out.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160721_162804_1.jpg</a>" />
Here's a sharpened picture of it when I brought it home.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160718_1716162_1.jpg</a>" />
Here it is after scrubbing it with steel wool.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160721_161916.jpg</a>" />
These other pictures I was just messing around with some features on my phone.

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160721_162302_1.jpg</a>" />
http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160721_162125_1.jpg</a>" />
http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160721_162440_1.jpg</a>" />

View Quote

Don't do any more scrubbing with steel wool. You've done a good job cleaning off the bulk of the grime, any more scrubbing might actually lighten/lessen the cartouches.

I have a grading system for WWII stocks with cartouches.

Grade A - Sharp and crisp stamps, cartouches 80% visible or more, stock is generally free of gouges and cuts, may have dents and other handling marks, very tight lockup with trigger group and receiver doesn't exibit any play

Grade B - Fuzzy but easily legible stamps, cartouches 60% visible or more, stock has some light gouges and cuts, has dents and handling marks, tight lockup with trigger group and receiver doesn't exibit any play

Grade C - Fuzzy but not easily legible stamps, cartouches 40% visible or more, stock has medium gouges or cuts, has dents and handling marks, lockup is firm but not tight, receiver may have very slight play. May have cracks or well done arsenal repairs

Grade D - not easily legible stamps, cartouches less than 40% visible, stock has deep gouges or cuts, chunks may be missing, lockup may be loose, receiver may have play in stock. Cracks and arsenal repairs almost guaranteed.

Yours would fit into the Grade C category just by the cartouches alone. Not to detract from it's value or rarity at all, consider that when it comes to WWII era stocks without rebuild marks maybe 1% are Grade As (many you see that look good that good are fakes), a small portion fall into Grade B completely, most are in the Grade C range with more in the grade D range.

Posted: 7/21/2016 8:47:58 PM EDT

[#39]

Finally got a chance to really go over this thing (wife's car broke down yesterday).

Man, I'm completely in love. I suspect this is definitely an RRAD rebuild since everything is parked the same silver. Very red stock too, lots of cartouches. LMR barrel me2/te2. Not fucking bad for a field grade

Posted: 7/22/2016 6:42:40 AM EDT

[#40]

Quote History

Quoted:

Don't do any more scrubbing with steel wool. You've done a good job cleaning off the bulk of the grime, any more scrubbing might actually lighten/lessen the cartouches.

I have a grading system for WWII stocks with cartouches.

Grade A - Sharp and crisp stamps, cartouches 80% visible or more, stock is generally free of gouges and cuts, may have dents and other handling marks, very tight lockup with trigger group and receiver doesn't exibit any play

Grade B - Fuzzy but easily legible stamps, cartouches 60% visible or more, stock has some light gouges and cuts, has dents and handling marks, tight lockup with trigger group and receiver doesn't exibit any play

Grade C - Fuzzy but not easily legible stamps, cartouches 40% visible or more, stock has medium gouges or cuts, has dents and handling marks, lockup is firm but not tight, receiver may have very slight play. May have cracks or well done arsenal repairs

Grade D - not easily legible stamps, cartouches less than 40% visible, stock has deep gouges or cuts, chunks may be missing, lockup may be loose, receiver may have play in stock. Cracks and arsenal repairs almost guaranteed.

Yours would fit into the Grade C category just by the cartouches alone. Not to detract from it's value or rarity at all, consider that when it comes to WWII era stocks without rebuild marks maybe 1% are Grade As (many you see that look good that good are fakes), a small portion fall into Grade B completely, most are in the Grade C range with more in the grade D range.

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
Grabbed me some #00 and #0000 steel wool and I started scrubbing with BLO after work today. Took a lot of the black off. There's still some black but it's looking much better.

You can see the two cartouches better now. The one on the left definitely says SA G.H.S. , and the one on the right is the Springfield crossed cannons; when the wood is wet from the BLO they both really stand out.
http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160721_162804_1.jpg</a>" />

Here's a sharpened picture of it when I brought it home.
http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160718_1716162_1.jpg</a>" />

Here it is after scrubbing it with steel wool.
http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/IMG_20160721_161916.jpg</a>" />

These other pictures I was just messing around with some features on my phone.
http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160721_162302_1.jpg</a>" />

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160721_162125_1.jpg</a>" />

http://<a href=http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff503/nomadcity/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160721_162440_1.jpg</a>" />

Don't do any more scrubbing with steel wool. You've done a good job cleaning off the bulk of the grime, any more scrubbing might actually lighten/lessen the cartouches.

I have a grading system for WWII stocks with cartouches.

Grade A - Sharp and crisp stamps, cartouches 80% visible or more, stock is generally free of gouges and cuts, may have dents and other handling marks, very tight lockup with trigger group and receiver doesn't exibit any play

Grade B - Fuzzy but easily legible stamps, cartouches 60% visible or more, stock has some light gouges and cuts, has dents and handling marks, tight lockup with trigger group and receiver doesn't exibit any play

Grade C - Fuzzy but not easily legible stamps, cartouches 40% visible or more, stock has medium gouges or cuts, has dents and handling marks, lockup is firm but not tight, receiver may have very slight play. May have cracks or well done arsenal repairs

Grade D - not easily legible stamps, cartouches less than 40% visible, stock has deep gouges or cuts, chunks may be missing, lockup may be loose, receiver may have play in stock. Cracks and arsenal repairs almost guaranteed.

Yours would fit into the Grade C category just by the cartouches alone. Not to detract from it's value or rarity at all, consider that when it comes to WWII era stocks without rebuild marks maybe 1% are Grade As (many you see that look good that good are fakes), a small portion fall into Grade B completely, most are in the Grade C range with more in the grade D range.

Yeah, I'm done cleaning it. I think it came out nice and got most of the heavy grease off of it. I am going to pickup a beater stock from Fulton Though so I can l can prevent any further damage to the stock that came on the gun.

Posted: 7/22/2016 7:25:21 AM EDT

[#41]

I desperately need to oil the FG, but I don't want to remove any of the patina. I love the dirt!

Posted: 7/22/2016 7:52:24 AM EDT

[#42]

Quote History

Quoted:
I desperately need to oil the FG, but I don't want to remove any of the patina. I love the dirt!

View Quote

The only reason I wanted to clean mine was that it was so built up with stuff that my hands turned black and were sticky after picking up the rifle. You can tell in the my pictures it retains a lot of the patina, I just took the real heavy spots down.

Posted: 7/22/2016 9:08:41 AM EDT

[#43]

well, i had my first order ship today

they always ship on friday, i'm just lucky that way...

fortunately it's another goddamned late production serial so i won't lose any sleep wondering about it, will most likely go straight to the chopping block

Posted: 7/22/2016 12:24:39 PM EDT

[#44]

I had three SG rifles ship today. SN are:

Serial #: 454XXX
Serial #: 5710XXX
Serial #: 729XXX

Two early war rifles and an H&R if I'm not mistaken.

Posted: 7/22/2016 12:35:29 PM EDT

[#45]

it is, their serial block there was 5488247-5793847

sounds like a nice haul

Posted: 7/22/2016 9:07:38 PM EDT

[#46]

Got my HRA. CMP wood, LMR barrel, dated 2 55 so it might be original. Pretty happy.

Posted: 7/23/2016 7:22:34 AM EDT

[#47]

Quote History

Quoted:

That looks like dried grease/grime to me. I have received several CMP rifles with that crap dried on. I bet it cleans off.

View Quote View All Quotes

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
As for the rust is it in the chamber? If so I would contact customer service and see about a replacement barrel. Obviously tell them you do not wish to exchange the rifle you just want a new barrel on it.

That looks like dried grease/grime to me. I have received several CMP rifles with that crap dried on. I bet it cleans off.

It came off. I used a little Hoppes on a brush and scrubbed it.

Posted: 7/23/2016 11:08:08 AM EDT

[#48]

Tallest. Don't buy from Fulton thy are expensive. Check CMP forums and dupage trading.

Posted: 7/23/2016 11:25:08 AM EDT

[#49]

Quote History

Quoted:
Tallest. Don't buy from Fulton thy are expensive. Check CMP forums and dupage trading.

View Quote

Didn't know about Dupage Trading. I see their new production Birch stocks are sold out. I'll keep checking them and buy one when they are back in stock.

Posted: 7/23/2016 8:13:43 PM EDT

[#50]

Two coats of BLO on the FG.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - CMP...speeding up? **Now the Garand Thread (Page 7 of 8)

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