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Posted: 2/6/2016 11:03:59 AM EDT
[#1]
Personally I would (and did) use boiled linseed oil. Now every so often I apply a little bees wax to keep the walnut from drying or cracking. If I had to choose between the two I'd go tongue oil simply for the fact it does give it the more natural look and it doesn't take weeks to cure. What ever way you go just remember light coats.
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Posted: 2/6/2016 11:12:53 AM EDT
[#2]
Use boiled linseed oil NOT raw linseed oil. Just slather it on generously, then wipe off any excess. Add more to the "dry spots" (end grain really soaks it up). Repeat until no more is absorbed. BLO dries in about 24 hours.
I wouldn't put wax on my stock. It will melt in the sun and the handguards get really hot when firing, so, again, the wax will melt. I wouldn't use tung oil. I found it forms too much of a film which I did not like. My question for you is this - do you want the relatively rough texture of a military stock or do you want a smooth rifle stock? |
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Posted: 2/6/2016 11:17:16 AM EDT
[#3]
Tung, for heaven's sake!
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Posted: 2/6/2016 11:19:25 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Tung, for heaven's sake! This 
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Posted: 2/6/2016 11:27:09 AM EDT
[#5]
Since this is arfcom, I say "get both"!
Historically, I think this is the way it was done anyway. The stocks were finished with tung oil during production. Boiled linseed oil was used in the field to maintain the finish. Some one correct me if I am wrong, but I believe this was the practice. |
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Posted: 2/6/2016 11:35:51 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Tung, for heaven's sake! Yes! But get the good stuff. http://www.realmilkpaint.com/products/oils/tung-oil-wood-finishes/ And take your time. I did a raw laminated stock on a precision rifle build and it sucked up ten coats before it was even close to being finished. Properly sanding and letting each coat dry made it a months-long process. But it was worth it. My M1 is next. |
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Posted: 2/6/2016 11:43:30 AM EDT
[#7]
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Posted: 2/6/2016 12:14:20 PM EDT
[#8]
Why boiled vs raw linseed? I've read that RLO is how the original M1 production stocks were finished (later switched to tung - yes I fixed the spelling), and that boiled does not render the same aging qualities...
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Posted: 2/6/2016 12:18:02 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why boiled vs raw linseed? I've read that RLO is how the original M1 production stocks were finished (later switched to tung - yes I fixed the spelling), and that boiled does not render the same aging qualities... Here you go. (CMP site, but supposedly virus ridden... FYI) http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/wood-cleaning-article/#4 |
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Posted: 2/6/2016 12:42:12 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Why boiled vs raw linseed? I've read that RLO is how the original M1 production stocks were finished (later switched to tung - yes I fixed the spelling), and that boiled does not render the same aging qualities... Here you go. http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/wood-cleaning-article/#4 I believe there is a trojan at the link according to Kaspersky anyway. |
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Posted: 2/6/2016 12:54:26 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I believe there is a trojan at the link according to Kaspersky anyway. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Why boiled vs raw linseed? I've read that RLO is how the original M1 production stocks were finished (later switched to tung - yes I fixed the spelling), and that boiled does not render the same aging qualities... Here you go. http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/wood-cleaning-article/#4 I believe there is a trojan at the link according to Kaspersky anyway. Well, at least it is the CMP's site. I am not having any issues with their site... although they are from Alabama and Ohio. 
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Posted: 2/6/2016 4:25:40 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Use boiled linseed oil NOT raw linseed oil. Just slather it on generously, then wipe off any excess. Add more to the "dry spots" (end grain really soaks it up). Repeat until no more is absorbed. BLO dries in about 24 hours. I wouldn't put wax on my stock. It will melt in the sun and the handguards get really hot when firing, so, again, the wax will melt. I wouldn't use tung oil. I found it forms too much of a film which I did not like. My question for you is this - do you want the relatively rough texture of a military stock or do you want a smooth rifle stock? beeswax. You can also make your own using a mixture on BLO, tung oil, and bee wax |
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Posted: 2/6/2016 9:57:25 PM EDT
[#13]
I like pure Tung Oil. BLO takes ages to dry.
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Posted: 2/6/2016 10:25:15 PM EDT
[#14]
Raw linseed oil will be tacky for a LONG time. BLO is what I use but even it needs a good week to dry without the warmth from your hands melting it again. BLO does a good job though.
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Posted: 2/6/2016 10:34:48 PM EDT
[#15]
OP, as I am sure you are noticing, there are many different opinions here. You will find the same difference of opinion on M14 Forum and CMP forum. I like the CMP write up as it is likely the most static and least "opinion" based. I've used BLO and tung oil. In the future, I want to try some of the birchwood casey products that contain driers and a little bit of color. I've grown to dislike oil directly as many of the old stocks I have gotten will sweat that crap out for years... Some might be cosmolene, but even on stocks I've stripped and done myself I will get occasional sweating during really hot summer days on guns that I thought were done.
One interesting note I ran across, is that some of the old stocks were not stained exactly but were finished with a "lumber varnish/finish" prior to oiling. |
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Posted: 2/6/2016 11:15:26 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I believe there is a trojan at the link according to Kaspersky anyway. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Why boiled vs raw linseed? I've read that RLO is how the original M1 production stocks were finished (later switched to tung - yes I fixed the spelling), and that boiled does not render the same aging qualities... Here you go. http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/wood-cleaning-article/#4 I believe there is a trojan at the link according to Kaspersky anyway. Yeap... clicking that link infected my rig with 3 exploits.. 
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Posted: 2/6/2016 11:36:35 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yeap... clicking that link infected my rig with 3 exploits..
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Why boiled vs raw linseed? I've read that RLO is how the original M1 production stocks were finished (later switched to tung - yes I fixed the spelling), and that boiled does not render the same aging qualities... Here you go. http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/wood-cleaning-article/#4 I believe there is a trojan at the link according to Kaspersky anyway. Yeap... clicking that link infected my rig with 3 exploits..
Note added to my post. I am running up to date Win 7 though... Go figure. |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 12:42:25 AM EDT
[#18]
Real Milk pure tung oil. Don't use the standard hardware store tung oil.
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Posted: 2/7/2016 9:21:04 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My question for you is this - do you want the relatively rough texture of a military stock or do you want a smooth rifle stock? |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 9:35:19 AM EDT
[#20]
The basic difference between the two, RLO/BLO and Tung Oil is that RLO/BLO will gradually turn color(oxidize) with age and exposure to the sun. It will turn that deep reddish brown of old military stocks. RLO will turn color quicker than BLO, but BLO will still turn color. Most Tung Oils do not change color, or change as much as the others, and are slightly better at moisture repelling.
If it is a walnut stock, and I want a military look, I will completely strip the stock, then add one liberal coat of RLO(flaxseed oil is the same thing, only food grade). Rub it on briskly, let it set for about 10 - 20 minutes, then wipe the excess off with a rag. Let it dry over night. I say over night, but then I live in a "desert" on the West Coast so stuff dries quicker here. Once it has pretty much "dried"(RLO/BLO never really "dry"), I will repeat the process several times with a covering of BLO. Which has hardeners and driers in it to help it keep from being tacky. But, just wipe off the excess and the rifle won't be tacky. If the stock is Birch, and it has flame/figure I want to show off, I will use Tung Oil(for a shiney finish) or Teak Oil(more subdued finish). But, a true "military" finish can be either RLO or Tung, as the military used both. |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 9:43:38 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Since this is arfcom, I say "get both"! Historically, I think this is the way it was done anyway. The stocks were finished with tung oil during production. Boiled linseed oil was used in the field to maintain the finish. Some one correct me if I am wrong, but I believe this was the practice. Springfield Armory ( the original) used boiled Linseed oil to finish their stocks. They were using BLO on stocks since they became the primary armory for the U.S. military. |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 11:15:03 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why boiled vs raw linseed? I've read that RLO is how the original M1 production stocks were finished (later switched to tung - yes I fixed the spelling), and that boiled does not render the same aging qualities... Don't use raw linseed oil. It never dries/hardens. BLO or tung oil will be fine but I use BLO and prefer it to tung oil. I would never put bee's wax on my rifle stock. Bee's wax has a low melting point. It's marginally fine for furniture but it almost melts in your hand - not good for a rifle in the sun and/or a hot barrel. It won't hurt the rifle but you may not like the results. Just for concept development - Raw linseed oil, mixed with "whiting", is/was used as a glazier's putty to hold glass in window frame. The oil never gets hard, so repairing the glass is possible. Linseed oil comes from the seeds of the flax plant. You can buy edible grades of raw linseed oil. Boiled linseed oil is the carrier, the base, for oil-based paints. It has chemicals in it to force it to harden (cure). Pigments, emollients, etc are added to BLO to give it color and make "paint". The stuff I use cures in 24 hours. The additives in BLO make it a poison (some are lead-based but all are toxic). Do not confuse the two. Both are sold in paint stores. If you already know all this stuff, please excuse my feeble attempt to provide info. |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 11:46:07 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Don't use raw linseed oil. It never dries/hardens. BLO or tung oil will be fine but I use BLO and prefer it to tung oil. I would never put bee's wax on my rifle stock. Bee's wax has a low melting point. It's marginally fine for furniture but it almost melts in your hand - not good for a rifle in the sun and/or a hot barrel. It won't hurt the rifle but you may not like the results. Just for concept development - Raw linseed oil, mixed with "whiting", is/was used as a glazier's putty to hold glass in window frame. The oil never gets hard, so repairing the glass is possible. Linseed oil comes from the seeds of the flax plant. You can buy edible grades of raw linseed oil. Boiled linseed oil is the carrier, the base, for oil-based paints. It has chemicals in it to force it to harden (cure). Pigments, emollients, etc are added to BLO to give it color and make "paint". The stuff I use cures in 24 hours. The additives in BLO make it a poison (some are lead-based but all are toxic). Do not confuse the two. Both are sold in paint stores. If you already know all this stuff, please excuse my feeble attempt to provide info. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Why boiled vs raw linseed? I've read that RLO is how the original M1 production stocks were finished (later switched to tung - yes I fixed the spelling), and that boiled does not render the same aging qualities... Don't use raw linseed oil. It never dries/hardens. BLO or tung oil will be fine but I use BLO and prefer it to tung oil. I would never put bee's wax on my rifle stock. Bee's wax has a low melting point. It's marginally fine for furniture but it almost melts in your hand - not good for a rifle in the sun and/or a hot barrel. It won't hurt the rifle but you may not like the results. Just for concept development - Raw linseed oil, mixed with "whiting", is/was used as a glazier's putty to hold glass in window frame. The oil never gets hard, so repairing the glass is possible. Linseed oil comes from the seeds of the flax plant. You can buy edible grades of raw linseed oil. Boiled linseed oil is the carrier, the base, for oil-based paints. It has chemicals in it to force it to harden (cure). Pigments, emollients, etc are added to BLO to give it color and make "paint". The stuff I use cures in 24 hours. The additives in BLO make it a poison (some are lead-based but all are toxic). Do not confuse the two. Both are sold in paint stores. If you already know all this stuff, please excuse my feeble attempt to provide info. As an aside, I sent CMP and email regarding the virus issue on the their link. |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 1:11:09 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I like pure Tung Oil. BLO takes ages to dry. That's because BLO evaporates, while Tung Oil polymerizes. |
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Posted: 2/7/2016 4:13:53 PM EDT
[#25]
I used BLO on both of my M1s and like the end result. I have no experience with tung oil.
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Posted: 2/7/2016 4:35:36 PM EDT
[#26]
Here's the why and wherefors: http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-new-oil-finish
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Posted: 2/7/2016 8:41:33 PM EDT
[#27]
I've used tung on a few CMP Garand stocks and liked the results
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Posted: 2/8/2016 1:58:05 PM EDT
[#28]
Good infor on the CMP site. If the link above is corrupt, just search out CMP and you should be able to find their "how to" on stocks. Some of it depends if you want to refinish (strip down and reapply) or restore/protect. I did some original WWI M1 carbine stocks and chose the Tung Oil (real tung, from the milkpaint link someone above had) and it worked well. You can rub the oil in and it can clean off some of the built up grime (can do same with linseed
http://forums.thecmp.org/ is the CMP forum http://thecmp.org/training-tech/armorers-corner/wood-cleaning-article/ is the CMP wood cleaning article Made those hot and cold in case my link is corrupted (should not be) |
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Posted: 2/8/2016 5:20:22 PM EDT
[#29]
The first few I did with boiled linseed oil. Turned out okay.
Be sure you do not toss the used rags (application or wiping off) in the trash or lay them anywhere they can catch some thing else on fire. Sometimes BLO rags will spontaneously combust as the BLO dries out. I used to put mine in a water bucket (with water in it) outside my shed. I stopped using BLO when I was working on a couple H&R M1 Garands. The wood was walnut, but for some reason it just kept looking like I'd sandblasted it. I asked a buddy who had been building M1As and working on stocks for several years how to fix them. He said to use tung oil. I asked him about stripping the BLO off first and he said there was no need, just put the tung oil right on top of the dull/ugly looking BLO. It worked great. It was shining up in about 3 coats and another 3 after that gave me some pretty wood on those two H&R's. I've used Tung oil ever since (two more M1 Garands). |
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Posted: 2/9/2016 1:03:02 AM EDT
[#30]
Pics of results from different products?
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Posted: 2/9/2016 4:38:27 PM EDT
[#31]
I was not having any luck with tung oil. My garand walnut stock just kept soaking it up.
Maybe I quit too soon, I don't know. Real Milk Paint Tung Oil One coat of 1:1 turpentine & tung oil and 2 coats of 100% tung oil. 
I gave up and bought some BLO. This is with just one coat right on top the tung oil. 
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Posted: 2/9/2016 6:00:09 PM EDT
[#32]
Nice!!!!!!!
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Posted: 2/9/2016 6:12:09 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was not having any luck with tung oil. My garand walnut stock just kept soaking it up. Maybe I quit too soon, I don't know. Real Milk Paint Tung Oil One coat of 1:1 turpentine & tung oil and 2 coats of 100% tung oil. http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/bc5000/IMG_5517_zpsm3syerxz.jpg I gave up and bought some BLO. This is with just one coat right on top the tung oil. http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h163/bc5000/IMG_5527_zpsmywrknwu.jpg You won't get a glossy finish with Tung Oil. Like I said above, I put 10 coats on my raw laminate stock before it even began to look like it was finished. (and I feel I could have easily done 5 more...) It took forever. This is the best pic I have. I can take more if anyone wants.  |
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