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Posted: 5/4/2015 10:10:44 PM EDT
Hello, everyone:

Yesterday, I took the necessary steps to break-in the barrel on my new Springfield Armory M1A Loaded.  This morning, I broke the rifle down to clean it and ran into an issue.

There was no particular reason for the next step, aside from familiarizing myself with the gas-cylinder assembly.

So, while attempting to remove the gas-cylinder plug on my rifle today, I had no luck with it.  The plug is on ridiculously tight.  I'm afraid that if I torque too much that it might break something.

Am I doing something wrong?  Should I just leave it alone until issues arise with the rifle?  Is this a stupid question?

Thanks for taking the time to read my post.
Link Posted: 5/5/2015 12:08:19 PM EDT
[#1]
You will eventually need to remove the plug to service the cylinder and remove the carbon build up.  That will take some time.

I don't know what to tell you on removing it.  It should just be torqued to some reasonable spec.  Are you using a proper fitting hex wrench and clamping the cylinder in a padded vice?
Link Posted: 5/5/2015 2:07:53 PM EDT
[#2]
Place the barrel/gas cylinder into a bench vise, padding the part as needed with blocks of wood or rags.

Use a 3/8" box wrench to loosen the gas cylinder plug.
Link Posted: 5/5/2015 8:42:52 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks, guys:

Sounds like a reasonable process.

Was just afraid I would mess something up since the thing is on so tight.  I've got a vise on my bench and a shop full of 2x4s and 2x6s.  Think there is a Berber carpet-sample that I was planning to use as a door-mat, but used something else instead.

Appreciate the obvious solution, fellows.

Thanks for all the help.
Link Posted: 5/16/2015 8:08:25 PM EDT
[#4]
There is a tool made to fit over the gas cylinder and barrel, kind of figure 8 shaped.  That and a proper wrench ought to be all you need.
Link Posted: 5/16/2015 9:25:30 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
There is a tool made to fit over the gas cylinder and barrel, kind of figure 8 shaped.  That and a proper wrench ought to be all you need.
View Quote


The 3/8" box wrench is the proper wrench.
The cylinder wrench is for when you are in the woods. The padded bench is the best.
Link Posted: 5/17/2015 3:52:01 AM EDT
[#6]
Thanks, fellows:

I placed an order yesterday for reloading dies and miscellaneous items from Midway.  Included the Sadlak Gas Cylinder Wrench and the Sadlak Gas Piston Cleaning Drill Set along with a few extra items, as well.  Kind of like to have what's needed in my bag when I have the opportunity to go and shoot.

Actually, put in some time behind the rifle this morning.  It's becoming an addiction.

Again, thanks for everyone's input to the topic.  Very appreciative of all the replies.
Link Posted: 5/17/2015 6:37:30 AM EDT
[#7]
I carried/shot M14's in the Army for over 3 years (M16 in basic and AIT).

We never had issues getting the gas plug in/out.  I never had it come loose on the range.  We used the GI combination tool/wrench that is the cleaning rod handle.

I got my M1A in 1978.  I've been using the same combo tool since then.  I've never had the plug come loose, even on a 200 round day at the range.

I did clean the plug and piston out with solvent and brushes every so often over the years, but never with drill bits.  Just seems easier to take care of it at the routine cleanings.

Works for my M1A, whether it works for anyone else or not.
Link Posted: 5/17/2015 8:57:31 AM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 5/18/2015 5:25:01 AM EDT
[#9]
Totally understand, M1A4ME.  If it's me cleaning here at the house, I go the meticulous route with the solvent and brushes.  Originally, just had an issue with trying to get the gas-cylinder plug off.  Felt as though I might damage something, and asked the forum about it.  So, I got the wrench for when I wasn't able to use a vise and a carpet-sample.  The drill-style items are used to primarily clean the carbon from inside of the plug and from the gas-cylinder.  The majority of the time, I will be cleaning the assembly with the usual solvent and brushes.  Just tend to keep certain items in my bag for those times when they're needed.

My original interest in removing the piston and such was to familiarize myself with the rifle, Chuck.  It's new to me, and I've never owned an M1A before.  Not trying to mess anything up.  Just like knowing every inch of something that I've grown so fond of in such a short amount of time.  I swapped a few parts before I ever shot it due to questions I had early on.  (USGI Extractor, NM Spring Guide, etc.)  Also, I'd never planned to shoot it without a scope, so I went in feet-first on that ordeal, as well.  Still can't understand why I waited so long to purchase one of these.  They're awesome.

Anyway, thanks so much for everyone's comments.
Link Posted: 5/18/2015 6:17:20 AM EDT
[#10]
Link Posted: 5/18/2015 1:49:35 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Thanks, fellows:

I placed an order yesterday for reloading dies and miscellaneous items from Midway.       Sadlak Gas Piston Cleaning Drill Set
View Quote
 

You could have just bought a regular Letter Size "P" and a 6" long Number Size "15" drill bit from any reputable hardware/tool source for about $10. NO, I don't mean Home Depot. I once asked where they had the letter size bits and they had never heard of them.
These bits won't have a fancy handle. You would have to use them with a bare hand or a wrap of Duct tape.
Link Posted: 5/21/2015 9:48:52 AM EDT
[#12]
I'm all for maintenance but on this item I wouldn't go too often or too long.  

Like was mentioned, taking everything apart every time may be causing excessive wear.  Unless you live in a humid place where you know the carbon fouling draws moisture and makes rust I'd punch the bore and chamber and do an external wipe for most cleanings.  

I'd do a complete tear down at least once a year.  This should avoid the carbon build up migrating into those fine threads.  I have a buddy with an m1 garand and he's never been able to loosen the gas plug screw on it despite soaking inverted with kroil and using a 1/4 inch drive tool in the plug screw.  I tried it for him too, I couldn't budge the F'r without fear of stripping the phillips head.

So there is a happy medium in my humble opinion.
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