I'd like to do a form 1 can that can support 5.56, .300BLK, .308 etc on the AR-15 and SCAR platforms. Possibly to be used on a bolt action .308 also.

Liking DM products but what size should I be looking at? Looks like most of the commercial stuff is 1.500" or larger. I'd be using a Titanium tube and end caps and would really like something that can be both direct thread and quick detach so a read cap that allows usage of different adapters would be nice. Kinda like how you can use the booster busing with a booster or remove the booster without removing the bushing and toss on Liberty's fixed adapter.

As far as internals for a rifle should I be looking at Ti or SS? I'd prefer to buy a radial stack that's ready to go other than the obviously drilling once the F1 comes back. I don't want to have to try to measure spacers, cut them etc. I know a few places offer stacks that are pre-sized for various tubes so you basically drill and drop. Well maybe there is a little more to it than just drilling but you know what I mean.

School me guys!

I'd go with a 1.625" Tube with a Griffin taper style endcap, since Griffin has now their "direct thread " adapter it will allow you to use any of the brakes , comps or flashiders they offer or use it as a direct thread

ETA: As far as cones SS for the first 2 and Ti for the rest if your trying to get the weight down

Why stainless for the first two? Does it absorb the initial shock better than titanium?

I will have to look into that adaptor btw.... OK checked out.... I like that! I like Griffins brake too.

OK so what I'm looking at is the DM Titanium 9.50" tube in 1.625" with the DM stepped end cap and DM Griffin adaptor.

Thinking about doing a 1.375" 7.75" inch .45ACP pistol can and a .308 multi rifle can all based on DM parts before any new "official positions" come down the pipeline and I can't get the parts.

Just had 3 sets of ATF finger print card done at my local PD! :)

Thanks! 

If can is going to be used on Semi auto platforms of the 556 and 308 size I'd go all SS, titanium does not handle the heat as well as SS. If it was going to be slow fire only or bolt action only you could get away with all ti internals but for longitivtiy and durability I'd go all stainless and 17-4 stainless at that if you can get it. If your going DM parts you might as well build it right.

Stainless handles temperature and abrasion better ...its just more wear resistant so it erodes slower, inconel would be an even better choice but no one that I've seen makes inconel cones
as others have said it all depends on the rate of fire if its a for a slow fire bolt gun all Ti is fine but if its going to see more rapid fire go with stainless ...  My thought is that the first couple of baffles see most of the abuse so they should be a tougher material while the rest can be made lighter for a can that is both lighter and more abuse resistant

My Personal F1 30cal can is all Titanium with a Inconel blast baffle
weight was more of a concern than rapid fire durability
it will spend most of its time on my 6.25" 300blk but it will spend time on a 10.5" 5.56 and a 20"308 

It would be mostly slow fire. Last time I shot my Mk18 I put 3, 20 round mags through it all day at the range and I do not mag dump, ammo got expensive post-Sandy Hook.

I mostly want it for hunting. They have recently legalized hunting with cans here in Michigan and I like the idea of not having to take time to put ear plugs in. Any rapid fire would be with a CMMG .22LR upper and even then, I don't do mag dumps. 

Thanks for all the info btw guys! :)

Anything from 1.5"-1.625" Dia x 7"-10"L will do a good job.
There are full-auto rated Ti cans (yes, for centerfire) so it's not a huge blunder if you want Ti.
Sleeving your blast chamber w/ SS and making at least your first baffle SS is a good idea, though.

Try to get 6-9 baffles in your design.

If your ordering a DM tube he can include radials (they are Zmachine ones) with spacers that cut for the tube already.  I have both the 1.5" and 1.625" tubes, my 1.5"s are sub 10oz, the 1.625's were build with steel ends and internals before the ti parts were help and perform very well, the tube doesn't seem much bigger but a nice volume bump.

Would you say there is a noticeable difference in 7" Vs. 10"? Is the 3 extra inches worth it? I like the idea of something smaller but I would want hearing safe on 5.56 and .308... I mean it doesn't need to be .300blk on a factory can quite but I would like it to be hearing safe indoors if possible.

You are on the right track, DM is the answer.  ZM cones or DM supplied DM cones, both top quality.

I would stay with 8 inches OAL as a target, 1.50 or 1.625 O.D. 2 stainless baffles then Ti for the rest.

I do not think you are going to be hearing safe indoors with 5.56/308 and the setup above.  I do not shoot indoors so I am not the best to answer the above but that is my best guess thinking about what you intend to do.

Cans can definitely get too big, it is a trade off size and convenience vs. absolute suppression.

I don't know if he is still making them, but DM used to make a Griffin compatible reflex mount. It's an option that allows for larger blast chamber volume while adding less length to the end of the barrel.

I'm after a compromise of size and weight and decided on 1.5x7"

for baffles i'd go 17-4 for your blast baffle (or the whole can if you don't mind the weight) then Ti for the rest. i'm doing 7 baffles with a 2" blast chamber. griffin taper mount. .100" on the blast and .060 for the rest of the stack spacing TBD clips on bafles 2-6, profiled endcap. i'm machining my own though so can't help on the pre formed stuff. haven't looked into it. still waiting on the stamp though....

Anyone have an opinion if the cratus kits would work well enough for this application? or would those be regulated more towards handgun caliber?