My AAC Prodigy is 5.3" long, an outside diameter of 1", and has an internal diameter of 0.91", which is 3.44 cubic inches volume. If you had one of SNE's 5" tubes that was 1.25" wide with an internal diameter of 1", you would have 3.93 cubic inches of volume.

Now of course volume isn't everything, it's just one part of the equation along with baffle design and many other factors, but IMO yes, a SNE 5" tube would be very good on a pistol.

Thanks.

What's the theory behind clipping the baffles?

If you have a traditional cone baffle, w/o clipping, the gas flow will be as close to laminar as it can get.
Once you clip a baffle, you'll asymmetrically alter the bore-line flow of gas.
You will have created a cross-flow jet of gas, from the side w/ the clip to the other, thereby reducing the amount of mainstream flow.

Imagine this:
You're holding a garden hose in your hand, w/o a nozzle. You get a full body flow of water out the open end. Now, slowly introduce your thumb into the stream and tell me what happens.

Now try this same experiment with the carnival game, where you shoot the water into the clowns mouth, to blow up the balloon. The water is the propellant gases and the clown's mouth is the end cap of the suppressor. If you stick your thumb in front of the gun, you'll drastically decrease the amount of water (gas) entering (exiting) the clown's mouth (suppressor end cap).

The difference being that your suppressor has an outer tube, containing the gas, so it all has to come out at some point. The object of a suppressor is to dwell this time down by obstructing and disrupting the gas flow as well as to dissipate the heat from the gases (most often referred to as pressure).


There are tons of different clip styles. Going w/ the most common ones are your safest bet. No one clip works best, for everything. Some clips are purpose specific and some work well across the board.

OK, stupid follow up question: Clipping the baffle where the bullet travels, can that not add negative effects to bullet flight (especially a clip on one side as opposed to a symmetrical clip on both sides)?

I notice some baffles with drilled holes, wouldn't that do the same but have less effect on bullet travel?

Yes!
The most voiced recognition to this point is "clip all, but the first and last".
Clipping the first baffle, in a can designed for HV rounds, can induce a negative balance on the projectile.
If you're going for extreme accuracy, at long range, bullet instability is the last thing you want.
If you're running a FA, and need maximum suppression, then clipping the first baffle would be a wise choice. The overpowering volume and field of fire will outweigh any possible influence this first baffle clipping can cause.
The same goes for the last baffle, although, I always clip the last baffle. The belief is to allow the bullet and gases to have a "settling" period, before exiting the suppressor, w/o causing any negative effects at the last second.

I have no actual experience w/ the dual clip. Though, I have ran it through CFD models and the results were conflicting w/ real world tests. From experience, I hold no candle to CFD models, for suppressor design.
The models show the cross-jets (from the dual clip) intersect one another and do little to induce a turbulent flow. In reality, I'm assuming they encourage the expanding gases to spread even further and focus them away from the boreline.

The only "drilled holes" I can think of would be drains/equalization ports, near the outer edge of cone baffles.
What these do is connect one or more sets of baffles to create "canceling chambers". Instead of the outer edge of the cone taking all the pressure and "storing it", the holes allow it to bleed into the next chamber. This helps with disrupting the gases, assembling into that following chamber, and also distributes pressure throughout the entire baffle stack.

They also allow the suppressor to drain any water, which may accumulate during submersion, out the endcap.

Just received mine. Ordered direct from SNE. I went for the 7x1.5" tube. First impressions are it's well done. Looks nice and feels solid. Nice threads, cones fit perfectly. This one was $75 and for my first form 1 seems a cheap way to get started.

I realize this might be a bit large for a 22lr but I wanted to experiment with it on my AR as well. Not long term - just a few rounds to see what happens.

I'm curious if anyone has any experience with an all AL can on a AR. I realize this isn't ideal, but I'm sure it's been done (isn't that what the video on page 1 was showing?)

Will it survive 10 shots? 50? What is most likely to "break"? Will the tube bulge or will baffles warp or crack?

Just got mine in today, exactly the same as yours for $75. Fit is great but I wouldn't trust it for a 556. Would do 9mm max through it. Material grade is suspicious. If you want a 556 and 22 can just get a apogee 1.5 tube in titanium for $75 and use the end caps off the sne can, buy zmachinewerks stainless baffles for $16 each and ti spacers from DM for $2 each and be done. I just checked my ti apogee tube with the aluminum baffles and they are too large to fit fyi.

Mine will be used for a form 1 I have comming in for a intergal/reflex 1022 shorty so this works for me. I just have to add a extra spacer that I ordered and re tap the rear cap to 3/4x20 tpi

There are much better products out there, of course they cost more as well.  Quality of machining may be good on these, but the design is not.  I mean it's perfectly fine as a solvent trap, but it'd make a poor silencer. The angle of the cones should be 55-60 degrees.  The shoulders should be flat.  Having tapered shoulders on the cones leads to collapse.  The tube and cones are both really thick, much thicker than necessary.  The endcap is way too thick. 

Thanks for the tip. The I.D. of the Apogee tube is different from the SNE tube so I don't think the end caps will fit.

With the zmachine cones, how many would you use and what size spacers? Seems like it would be hard to get a good fit.

I just bought as a experiment, I will mill the end caps back and drill for a tool to remove. Cups will be used to mix cerakote in since I will be turning a monolithic stack and using a M baffle as the blast baffle and a TI tube insert as the chamber.

.20 or .30 spacers, and yes they are 1.5x20tpi end caps and do fit just fine on a 1.5 apogee tube in titanium although the OD is a hair larger since they are turned to the same OD as the sne tube.

Once I get home tonight with a dial caliper specs will be posted.

tag

Long day, best I could do with lack of sleep and screaming kids

7" sne tube kit 1.5 d cell

Tube
5.981 oal
1.558 OD
1.380 ID

Spacer x1
1.238 oal
1.377 OD
1.211 ID

Cup x5 chose one and measured didn't do all 5
.977 oal
1.376 OD
1.212 ID
.760 "skirt"
.430 "face with center mark"

Rear cap 1/2x28 tpi
1.561 OD
.925 oal
.410 thread "1.5x20"
.925 thread "1/2x28"

Front cap "center marked"
1.562 OD
.412 thread "1.5x20 tpi"
.930 oal
.324 cup depth "inside cut of cap"

Thanks for the info. I'll spend some time with the numbers when I'm more awake as well

Hmmm, looks like you could almost but not quite drop a SS zmachine cone in there to have a better BC.

The zmachine cone is 1.372 OD so would be a little more loose. The skirt is .67 so you would need a little longer spacer or you would have .09 slop.

Just took a look at mine. My first thought was wow these end caps are really long. My next thought was wow this tube is thick. 

Im probably going to stick with using my SDTA tube rather than this one.  If HPA passes I'll have another tube ready to go. Will just need to buy some freeze plugs. 

Being aluminum it's good that it's thick. Would be decent on a 22-9mm but not with the cups. I brought it to work and had the aluminum tested and it rated at a little better than 6065 so that's positive. I am planning to run the endcaps in a mill and cut about .2 off each and cut them for my old SWR removal tool which should be fairly easy as it's just 2 flats. I am debating on making it about .1 from the tube on the front and .15 on the rear and then chasing the threads this next week so it should be interesting to see.

I bought one of those solvent traps linked to finish a form 1 build I filed pre-41p.

It has a 1/2" spacer then 6 k-baffles. It is a lot louder than desired. My big 30cal can sound alike a typewriter on the same pistol. 

I don't know if I need mouse holes or if the bore in the baffle stack is too large. The .750 center drill I used to bore most of the waste had a .313 tip. 

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What caliber is this for?

Right off the bat, I can tell you this:
-the face of your K's is void of any suppression features.
   -there is no dish to capture gas
   -there is no scoop/clip to create a cross-bore jet and move the gas into the coaxial chamber



PM sent

Did the tube kit come with the K's?

I made those baffles this afternoon. The cones they sell are little better than flat baffles. I only bought the tube kit as I'm lazy. 

Gotcha. Turned these on my little lathe and cut  on my mill, kinda choppy as it was my fist run on ti and ignore all the antisieze as they fit a little tight in the sleeve. Should give you a idea on where to cut. I copied the K's in my old tac 67 and just upscaled them some.

There are plenty of ways to make a K. Some are more efficient than others.
Here is the one I used on a recent project (30cal).
5 K's (last is a shorter version) and 1 cone, measure only 4.125" (just the stack)
(debating whether some kidney beans should be cut)





The "mouse hole" has been outdated for a number of years. Sure, the cans of those times worked, but there are more effective designs out there today.
Also, cutting your vent hole too large negates the reason for having it. You want the gas to get into the coaxial chamber, expand, and dwell there. Large vent cuts, and mouse holes, don't offer the extended dwell time and allow the gases to merge back into the main stream flow too soon. This is one of the main reasons K's work so well for SS ammunition. The gas that isn't forced into the dish is coaxed into the outer chamber, by the facial scoop, where it is allowed to expand and, once its force has diminished, is re-introduced into the bore-line, and has to hit every K on the way out.

I modified my baffles to have a dish on the front with a scoop falling into the bore with the notch cut opposite. Has a good size first round pop but overall works much better. Still louder than my coworkers pistols...

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Thread hijack over, I'd get the longer one if I had it to do over. 

Kinda...

Buy the SNE D sized tube. Go to SD tactical and buy their D to Gemtech adapter. It's very nice and will do exactly what you're looking for. all the pieces fit together like a Swiss watch.