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Posted: 2/28/2015 6:41:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Overton-AR]
Ok, let me start this by saying, there is PAGE after PAGE of information in the "Official $100 Effective Suppressors" thread.  Please DO NOT see this thread as competition to that thread.  It is just taking things to the next level.  This thread is discuss the building of cans for people who want something that goes beyond the standard $100 can.  There are many things that go way beyond the budget of the $100-$200 Form 1 suppressors and this is the place I want to be able to discuss them.  If we keep this done right, it will make it easier for people to find the information they want without having to read through so many pages of information.  PLEASE UNDERSTAND,  I am not saying these things are BETTER or WORSE....just wanting to separate things by dollar amounts so people can shop within their allotted budget.  Please do not take this a BASH on ANYONE or ANY product.


The DON'Ts (I may add more of these if needed)

- Please don't come here to bicker like 5th graders about different tube manufacturers.  

- Please don't advertise the name, phone number of prices of your chosen manufacturer.  

- If you wan the above info from someone, don't solicit this info openly.......PLEAE send them a MESSAGE.

- NO ARGUING ABOUT THREAD PITCH.....(cannot take that headache again)




The DO's

Things that are appropriate here should start with a few ideas like....

- Titanium Tubes (other other methods to lighten the weight of our tubes)

- Titanium or other Exotic End Caps (or other custom ways to reduce weight)

- Exotic Spacer Material

- Custom Baffles (over 100 pages of freeze plugs in the other thread, lets NOT discuss them here)

- Custom Finishes.....(endless ideas)

- Any other idea that adds too the "customization" of your chosen build



Link Posted: 2/28/2015 6:47:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Overton-AR] [#1]
Here is my first "EXOTIC" build.  The specs are as follows.....

Material - Titanium
Length - 7"
O.D. - 1.625"
I.D. - 1.486"
Endcaps - Titanium
Baffles  - Customized (by me) Titanium VSR's (valve spring retainers)
Spacers - Titanium 1.482x.025" (very thin)

WEIGHT - just a hair over 14oz and proud of it.
COST - $430 (not so proud of that, but it was worth it.





Link Posted: 2/28/2015 6:51:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: InfiniteGrim] [#2]
With an all titanium build like that, and really thin spacers... how is the heat? I'm thinking that would heat up quick on 5.56.

Does $430 include the tax stamp?
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 7:18:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bradpierson26] [#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
Here is my first "EXOTIC" build.  The specs are as follows.....

Material - Titanium
Length - 7"
O.D. - 1.625"
I.D. - 1.486"
Endcaps - Titanium
Baffles  - Customized (by me) Titanium VSR's (valve spring retainers)
Spacers - Titanium 1.482x.028" (very thin)

WEIGHT - just a hair over 14oz and proud of it.
COST - $430 (not so proud of that, but it was worth it.



<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/yfz450air/media/Guns/unnamed-2_zps8fe9dd5d.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/yfz450air/Guns/unnamed-2_zps8fe9dd5d.jpg</a>

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/yfz450air/media/Guns/unnamed-1_zpsaxfeqwyu.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/yfz450air/Guns/unnamed-1_zpsaxfeqwyu.jpg</a>
View Quote


I'd be very curious to hear/see how else you can shave weight from 14.3 down to 10.3oz like a gemtech trek-t.
I know the trek-t is 1.3" shorter but are there other, significant, contributing factors to the weight savings?

Is the additional savings really not practical for a home builder?
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 7:38:34 PM EDT
[#4]
Collecting my exotics while Form 1 is pending (about 15 days left).

Tubing is Ti-64 (grade 5)
OAL 6.380"
OD 1.792"
ID 1.625"
28tpi
7.2oz
free scrap from employer, machined by me. (1st picture).

First 2 blast baffles will be made from MP35n (free scrap from employer), made into 60* cones with "flutes" like the M4-2000. Currently the MP35n is in bar form. (2nd picture). I'll be maching them on a lathe with lots of coolant and bits.

Spacer material will be Ti-64. (free scrap).

The only cost will be the Titanium bar material for the end caps and remaining baffles. I've seen Ti end cuts on eBay for $20-$50, depending on OAL and OD.





After my form 1 is approved, I can start working on internals and ends, then I'll report back with total weight and sound.

Link Posted: 2/28/2015 7:48:01 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:

Baffles  - Customized (by me) Titanium VSR's (valve spring retainers)

View Quote


Huh, Valve Spring retainers look a whole lot like modern baffles.

Anyone know what size might fit snugly into a D Cell Maglite?
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 8:16:38 PM EDT
[#6]
This might be a stupid question but I am gonna ask it. Do these have to be engraved with trust name and caliber and a serial number.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 8:20:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: AlabamaPaul] [#7]


Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By booger123:



This might be a stupid question but I am gonna ask it. Do these have to be engraved with trust name and caliber and a serial number.
View Quote
Yes...


 









ETA: and model, if designated on the Form 1...
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 8:26:28 PM EDT
[#8]
Next question would be where is the engraving usually put on the suppressor? Tube? End Caps? And do you just pick a serial number or do you follow a rule when doing  it?. Thanks for the info. I am following these suppressor threads and really getting interested in making my own.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 8:28:24 PM EDT
[#9]
OP that's one sweet F1 can you have there.  Would it be possible to get pictures of the baffles and the can disassembled?  Any performance thoughts so far, # of rounds through it etc?
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 8:36:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bradpierson26] [#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By booger123:
Next question would be where is the engraving usually put on the suppressor? Tube? End Caps? And do you just pick a serial number or do you follow a rule when doing  it?. Thanks for the info. I am following these suppressor threads and really getting interested in making my own.
View Quote

Easiest is the tube
Use your bday or anniversary or something cool for a serial. Or 001
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 8:46:11 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
With an all titanium build like that, and really thin spacers... how is the heat? I'm thinking that would heat up quick on 5.56.

Does $430 include the tax stamp?
View Quote


No, sorry....the $200 tax stamp is ON TOP of that.


Link Posted: 2/28/2015 8:55:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Overton-AR] [#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SouthernBeau:
OP that's one sweet F1 can you have there.  Would it be possible to get pictures of the baffles and the can disassembled?  Any performance thoughts so far, # of rounds through it etc?
View Quote



Here are some pics of the can disassembled.  

Pic 1 - Internals all laid out.  6 VSR's and spacers.  The ~4" pin is a titanium alignment rod that goes through all of the baffles to keep the "clips" all lined up.  (my custom idea...it works for me)

Pic 2 - Partially assembled with the alignment rod showing what it does.

Pic 3 - Last baffle in place and just enough of the rod sticking out to almost touch the end cap.

Pics 4 & 5 - Close up of the "clipping" and "back cutting" on the Ti VSR's

Performance is better than I ever expected.  I shoot is almost exclusively on 300BLK "subs".  It performs beautifully.  On the 300BLK this thing is just as quiet (some say quieter) than my GemTech QuickSand.  I have shot it a couple times on full power .308 WIN loads and it that pretty well also.  On the 308 WIN the edge goes to the QuickSand, but on the 300BLK subs, I give the edge to this one.  Not to mention....it is 4 oz. LIGHTER than my QuickSand.  









Link Posted: 2/28/2015 10:04:01 PM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
With an all titanium build like that, and really thin spacers... how is the heat? I'm thinking that would heat up quick on 5.56.

Does $430 include the tax stamp?
View Quote



Grim....I am sure it would heat up pretty fast as well with 5.56.  The Ti doesn't dissipate heat like stainless and or carbon steel does.  I actually don't have any 5.56 rifles with Griffin mounts.....so this one has only been shot on 300BLK and then a 308 WIN bolt action rifle.  I have about 200 rounds through it so far.  The performance is great, but I haven't done any "mag dumps" yet to really heat her up.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 10:52:59 PM EDT
[#14]
Very nice write up and ground rules.
Like one's first gun, a BYO can can only go up in quality & parts used. Outside of the weight reduction from Ti VSR\s what is your or anyone else "opinion"  on steel VSR's ?  Having done engine work over the year,s a collection of misc small parts is collecting dust somewhere.
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 11:00:16 PM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By jim:
Very nice write up and ground rules.
Like one's first gun, a BYO can can only go up in quality & parts used. Outside of the weight reduction from Ti VSR\s what is your or anyone else "opinion"  on steel VSR's ?  Having done engine work over the year,s a collection of misc small parts is collecting dust somewhere.
View Quote

I meant to reply to your IM with this same question but the kids got out of hand today
Link Posted: 2/28/2015 11:16:27 PM EDT
[#16]
At first I wasn't a fan of VSR's at all.  In fact, I wrote a few times here in different threads that I wouldn't use them anymore.....however...that was before I "clipped" them.  I would call their performance mediocre at best if they are just shoved into the tube.  However, if you cut a nice deep clip into them, they are very nice and efficient baffles.  I also removed a little bit from the back of mine with a 1" drill bit, but I am not sure that did anything noticeable.  

As for the steel vs. Ti.....I am sure the steel VSR's make just as effective baffles as Ti.  I don't think the Ti does anything more than lighten the load.
Link Posted: 3/1/2015 11:41:31 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
Here is my first "EXOTIC" build.  The specs are as follows.....

Material - Titanium
Length - 7"
O.D. - 1.625"
I.D. - 1.486"
Endcaps - Titanium
Baffles  - Customized (by me) Titanium VSR's (valve spring retainers)
Spacers - Titanium 1.482x.028" (very thin)

WEIGHT - just a hair over 14oz and proud of it.
COST - $430 (not so proud of that, but it was worth it.



<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/yfz450air/media/Guns/unnamed-2_zps8fe9dd5d.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/yfz450air/Guns/unnamed-2_zps8fe9dd5d.jpg</a>

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/yfz450air/media/Guns/unnamed-1_zpsaxfeqwyu.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/yfz450air/Guns/unnamed-1_zpsaxfeqwyu.jpg</a>
View Quote


Do you have a part number for the Valve Retainers?

I had ordered a 8" one with the Freeze plugs and spacer material at fit it, I think I am about a week out.
Link Posted: 3/2/2015 9:55:52 AM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ECU77:


Do you have a part number for the Valve Retainers?

I had ordered a 8" one with the Freeze plugs and spacer material at fit it, I think I am about a week out.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ECU77:
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
Here is my first "EXOTIC" build.  The specs are as follows.....

Material - Titanium
Length - 7"
O.D. - 1.625"
I.D. - 1.486"
Endcaps - Titanium
Baffles  - Customized (by me) Titanium VSR's (valve spring retainers)
Spacers - Titanium 1.482x.028" (very thin)

WEIGHT - just a hair over 14oz and proud of it.
COST - $430 (not so proud of that, but it was worth it.



<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/yfz450air/media/Guns/unnamed-2_zps8fe9dd5d.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/yfz450air/Guns/unnamed-2_zps8fe9dd5d.jpg</a>

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/yfz450air/media/Guns/unnamed-1_zpsaxfeqwyu.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/yfz450air/Guns/unnamed-1_zpsaxfeqwyu.jpg</a>


Do you have a part number for the Valve Retainers?

I had ordered a 8" one with the Freeze plugs and spacer material at fit it, I think I am about a week out.

In for part # as well. Great thread op
Link Posted: 3/2/2015 11:10:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: grn_zx6r] [#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By booger123:
This might be a stupid question but I am gonna ask it. Do these have to be engraved with trust name and caliber and a serial number.
View Quote


Yes, all the information you fill in when you file your form 1

Trust Name
City, State
Model Name
Caliber
Serial Number

I had TarHeel State Firearms engrave my can, he texted me pictures of what I wanted on a scrap piece to ensure everything was correct and to show the size of the font. He engraved it the day it was received and had it back in the mail the next morning. $30 + $5 shipping to him, $5 return to me. I'll use him again for Form 1 cans/sbr's.

Per request here is a picture of my engraving. Can is stainless steel.
Link Posted: 3/2/2015 12:32:00 PM EDT
[#20]
There are several choices for Ti VSR's.  Here is a partial quoted post from another user that has the dimensions of several choices.  The prices shown are just info anyone can find from a google search.  I am not promoting any one shop or source.  The ones I am using are the Crane 99678.  I am reducing the OD to 1.482" and boring the ID out to .375"  (both done on my lathe).  Then I am cutting the "clip" and drilling out the alignment hole on the mill.  If I had to do it all over again, I would buy the PAC-R522.  The R522's have NEAR PERFECT OD and ID dimensions.  This would cut out 2 of the steps in the machine work.  I just ordered 3 more of these tubes, so I may give the R522's a chance on the next builds.


PAC Racing
PAC-R524 - - Titanium - - 1.380" - - 0.345" - - $22.22 - - ea
PAC-R525 - - Titanium - - 1.380" - - 0.345" - - $22.22 - - ea
PAC-R522 - - Titanium - - 1.480" - - 0.380" - - $22.22 - - ea
PAC-R523 - - Titanium - - 1.480" - - 0.345" - - $22.22 - - ea
PAC-R527 - - Titanium - - 1.480" - - 0.345" - - $22.22 - - ea

Crane Cams
99669 - - Titanium - - 1.371" - - 0.347" - - $22.00 ea
99936 - - Steel - - - - -1.375" - - 0.370" - - $9.00 (for 2)
99944 - - Steel - - - - -1.373" - - 0.392" - - $9.00 (for 2)
99943 - - Steel - - - - -1.375" - - 0.39" - - $9.00 (for 2)
99948 - - Steel - - - - -1.375" - - 0.401" - $9.00 (for 2)
99678 - - Titanium - - 1.500"- - 0.350" - - $47.00 (for 2)
99681 - - Titanium - - 1.500" - - 0.345" - - $47.00 (for 2)
99675 - - Titanium - - 1.500" - - 0.345" - - $47.00 (for 2)
99679 - - Titanium - - 1.500" - - 0.375" - - $47.00 (for 2)
99676 - - Titanium - - 1.500" - - 0.375" - - $47.00 (for 2)
99956 - - Steel - - - - -1.495" - - 0.401" - - $9.40 (for 2)
Link Posted: 3/2/2015 5:59:03 PM EDT
[#21]
What did you use to cut the titanium spacers and titanium VSRs?
Link Posted: 3/2/2015 8:31:42 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By n183:
What did you use to cut the titanium spacers and titanium VSRs?
View Quote



I did the work on a lathe and a mill.  The secret to the mill work on Ti is SLOW RPM's.  On the lathe it does just find for turning down the OD and boring the ID.  Now, thinning the spacer material was a PAIN....but it also was done on the lathe.  Just go slow and remove a little at a time.
Link Posted: 3/2/2015 9:42:30 PM EDT
[#23]
OST
Link Posted: 3/2/2015 9:51:30 PM EDT
[#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:


Yes, all the information you fill in when you file your form 1

Trust Name
City, State
Model Name
Caliber
Serial Number

I had TarHeel State Firearms engrave my can, he texted me pictures of what I wanted on a scrap piece to ensure everything was correct and to show the size of the font. He engraved it the day it was received and had it back in the mail the next morning. $30 + $5 shipping to him, $5 return to me. I'll use him again for Form 1 cans/sbr's.

Per request here is a picture of my engraving. Can is stainless steel.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv310/MikeNestor/20150302_100604_zpsbwcja0bs%201_zpst3biiabf.jpg
View Quote View All Quotes
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Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:
Originally Posted By booger123:
This might be a stupid question but I am gonna ask it. Do these have to be engraved with trust name and caliber and a serial number.


Yes, all the information you fill in when you file your form 1

Trust Name
City, State
Model Name
Caliber
Serial Number

I had TarHeel State Firearms engrave my can, he texted me pictures of what I wanted on a scrap piece to ensure everything was correct and to show the size of the font. He engraved it the day it was received and had it back in the mail the next morning. $30 + $5 shipping to him, $5 return to me. I'll use him again for Form 1 cans/sbr's.

Per request here is a picture of my engraving. Can is stainless steel.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv310/MikeNestor/20150302_100604_zpsbwcja0bs%201_zpst3biiabf.jpg

Looks good.  How big of font did you tell him to use?  I saw on their site they let you pick.
Link Posted: 3/2/2015 11:29:15 PM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By dskeet:

Looks good.  How big of font did you tell him to use?  I saw on their site they let you pick.
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Originally Posted By dskeet:
Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:
Originally Posted By booger123:
This might be a stupid question but I am gonna ask it. Do these have to be engraved with trust name and caliber and a serial number.


Yes, all the information you fill in when you file your form 1

Trust Name
City, State
Model Name
Caliber
Serial Number

I had TarHeel State Firearms engrave my can, he texted me pictures of what I wanted on a scrap piece to ensure everything was correct and to show the size of the font. He engraved it the day it was received and had it back in the mail the next morning. $30 + $5 shipping to him, $5 return to me. I'll use him again for Form 1 cans/sbr's.

Per request here is a picture of my engraving. Can is stainless steel.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv310/MikeNestor/20150302_100604_zpsbwcja0bs%201_zpst3biiabf.jpg

Looks good.  How big of font did you tell him to use?  I saw on their site they let you pick.


1.6mm
Link Posted: 3/2/2015 11:31:36 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:
1.6mm
View Quote


Very nice looking tube.  Are you going to "finish" it or just leave it stainless...??  I am still trying to decide on my Ti can.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 12:19:39 AM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:


Very nice looking tube.  Are you going to "finish" it or just leave it stainless...??  I am still trying to decide on my Ti can.
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Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:
1.6mm


Very nice looking tube.  Are you going to "finish" it or just leave it stainless...??  I am still trying to decide on my Ti can.


Painted it black today with VHT header paint
Says it's good to 2000 degrees.. See how it holds up.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 8:38:33 AM EDT
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:
Painted it black today with VHT header paint
Says it's good to 2000 degrees.. See how it holds up.
View Quote

Good to 2000F if you follow the heat curing procedures. Did you do that? I have a can of it here waiting on my tubes/caps and think I may return it for air dry Cerakote.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 9:12:25 AM EDT
[#29]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By BigWaylon:

Good to 2000F if you follow the heat curing procedures. Did you do that? I have a can of it here waiting on my tubes/caps and think I may return it for air dry Cerakote.
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Originally Posted By BigWaylon:
Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:
Painted it black today with VHT header paint
Says it's good to 2000 degrees.. See how it holds up.

Good to 2000F if you follow the heat curing procedures. Did you do that? I have a can of it here waiting on my tubes/caps and think I may return it for air dry Cerakote.


Preheating the oven now. Let it hang in front of a space heater last night to dry out.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 11:43:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: BigWaylon] [#30]
One little bit of "finishing" info that may be of interest to those of you making these nice cans. I know one commercial manufacturer that's using the air dry Cerakote. But, because they want to be able to box them up and ship them out without a bunch of cans hanging around curing for a week, they immediately bake them for 30-45 mins at 185F-200F to jump start the curing process. Said they've had real good/consistent outcomes using that process and the cans are ready to box up after cooling down.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 2:38:59 PM EDT
[#31]
What methods/tooling are you guys using to "clip" Ti  valve spring retainers?  Is anyone performing further modifications?
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 2:51:19 PM EDT
[#32]
Does doing the oven curing in an oven used for cooking impart any sort of smell or contamination to the oven that won't go away with the oven's cleaning function?
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 2:58:51 PM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Carolina_K:
What methods/tooling are you guys using to "clip" Ti  valve spring retainers?  Is anyone performing further modifications?
View Quote



I am using a mill at low speed.  Just a regular HSS .250" milling bit cuts right through the Ti as low speed.  I know some guys have used dremels, but I am not aware of how much work it is or what kind of bit they are using.  In my experience the Ti doesn't like high speed.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 3:08:41 PM EDT
[#34]
If you don't have access to a mill/lathe. Try using carbide deburr, the RPM will be fast for Ti, so you will need to flood the cuts with a coolant to keep the Ti from work hardening.

Example of Deburr:
http://www.eastwood.com/8pc-dual-cut-carbide-burr-set-1-4inch-shank.html
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 4:30:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: grn_zx6r] [#35]
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Originally Posted By Death_Wish:
Does doing the oven curing in an oven used for cooking impart any sort of smell or contamination to the oven that won't go away with the oven's cleaning function?
View Quote


I did my tube this morning following the directions on the can (30 min in oven, 30 out) you could smell it while the paint was baking but after the final stage and a self cleaning mode I can no longer smell the paint. It came out pretty good.. Final stage called for 30 min at 600 degrees but my oven only goes to 550.. See how it holds up after a mag dump or two..
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 4:38:52 PM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:



I am using a mill at low speed.  Just a regular HSS .250" milling bit cuts right through the Ti as low speed.  I know some guys have used dremels, but I am not aware of how much work it is or what kind of bit they are using.  In my experience the Ti doesn't like high speed.
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Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
Originally Posted By Carolina_K:
What methods/tooling are you guys using to "clip" Ti  valve spring retainers?  Is anyone performing further modifications?



I am using a mill at low speed.  Just a regular HSS .250" milling bit cuts right through the Ti as low speed.  I know some guys have used dremels, but I am not aware of how much work it is or what kind of bit they are using.  In my experience the Ti doesn't like high speed.



What speed do you use?
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 5:04:58 PM EDT
[#37]
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Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:


I did my tube this morning following the directions on the can (30 min in over, 30 out) you could smell it while the paint was baking but after the final stage and a self cleaning mode I can no longer smell the paint. It came out pretty good.. Final stage called for 30 min at top degrees but my oven only goes to 550.. See how it holds up after a mag dump or two..
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Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:
Originally Posted By Death_Wish:
Does doing the oven curing in an oven used for cooking impart any sort of smell or contamination to the oven that won't go away with the oven's cleaning function?


I did my tube this morning following the directions on the can (30 min in over, 30 out) you could smell it while the paint was baking but after the final stage and a self cleaning mode I can no longer smell the paint. It came out pretty good.. Final stage called for 30 min at top degrees but my oven only goes to 550.. See how it holds up after a mag dump or two..



My oven was the same.....550°F max but if you leave it in the oven for a cleaning cycle.....it will get there.  Auto cleaning ovens get to almost 900 degrees.....if that doesn't "cure" it nothing will.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 7:15:26 PM EDT
[#38]
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Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:


Painted it black today with VHT header paint
Says it's good to 2000 degrees.. See how it holds up.
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Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:
1.6mm


Very nice looking tube.  Are you going to "finish" it or just leave it stainless...??  I am still trying to decide on my Ti can.


Painted it black today with VHT header paint
Says it's good to 2000 degrees.. See how it holds up.


How visible is the engraving after hitting it with paint?

I've been planning on using the high temp cerakote, but trying to decided to have the engraving done before or after it since I have concerns about the finish filling in the engraving too much.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 7:21:41 PM EDT
[#39]
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Originally Posted By dskeet:


How visible is the engraving after hitting it with paint?

I've been planning on using the high temp cerakote, but trying to decided to have the engraving done before or after it since I have concerns about the finish filling in the engraving too much.
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Originally Posted By dskeet:
Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
Originally Posted By grn_zx6r:
1.6mm


Very nice looking tube.  Are you going to "finish" it or just leave it stainless...??  I am still trying to decide on my Ti can.


Painted it black today with VHT header paint
Says it's good to 2000 degrees.. See how it holds up.


How visible is the engraving after hitting it with paint?

I've been planning on using the high temp cerakote, but trying to decided to have the engraving done before or after it since I have concerns about the finish filling in the engraving too much.


Can still read it no problem just use light coats and you should be fine.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 11:07:41 PM EDT
[#40]
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Originally Posted By Mjollnir:



What speed do you use?
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Originally Posted By Mjollnir:
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
Originally Posted By Carolina_K:
What methods/tooling are you guys using to "clip" Ti  valve spring retainers?  Is anyone performing further modifications?



I am using a mill at low speed.  Just a regular HSS .250" milling bit cuts right through the Ti as low speed.  I know some guys have used dremels, but I am not aware of how much work it is or what kind of bit they are using.  In my experience the Ti doesn't like high speed.



What speed do you use?


I actually don't know.  My mill has 2 belts and different positions for each make many different combinations which produce speeds.  Its pretty "low tech" by todays standards.  I just put it on slow......and it cuts just fine.  Sorry.
Link Posted: 3/3/2015 11:25:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Smithy] [#41]
Finally got pics of mine. Here are the specs.

Custom SS 1.5" OD, 1.375 ID tube with griffin taper mount adapter. I milled the knurls on the adapter and end cap and modified a buttstock wrench to aid in removal. I will also be drilling and tapping for a Allen head set screw on the Griffin mount adapter end. 8.5" 300 BLK barrel. The bore is .368-.375.

The internals are as follows,

2" ti spacer
VSR baffle
1/2" ti spacer
VSR baffle
9 freeze plugs stacked with the last 2 having shorter side walls making their chambers tighter.

11 total baffles.

All are clipped except for the last FP baffle.

The middle 9 baffles are vented with 2 holes.

Weight is 21.5 ounces. Total length is 7.5".

Finish is ceramic header paint and it is very durable.

It is really quite with subs, I think most of the noise is the rifle action. I am going to shoot with a Class 3 dealer who has some silencerco cans and we are going to do a side by side.

I am very pleased with it. I am in the process of building my 10.5" 5.56 upper and will also use this can on that.

Pic of internals above the knives (one of the FP baffles are not in the pic).

Thanks for all the great info, in this thread and the others. This will not be my last. I am already planning a mini Ti can for a 5.56 SPR. I am thinkng 4.5" OAL with 4-5 Baffles using the griffin break and taper mount adapter. Can't wait!







Link Posted: 3/4/2015 11:57:47 AM EDT
[#42]
Smithy,

That is one amazing looking setup.  I love the customized end caps.....superb rifle as well.
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 12:24:30 PM EDT
[#43]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Overton-AR:
Smithy,

That is one amazing looking setup.  I love the customized end caps.....superb rifle as well.
View Quote


Totally agree! Very nice!

That is almost exactly what I am building with a few minor differences. Hope to have it completed in a few weeks.

Link Posted: 3/4/2015 12:53:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bradpierson26] [#44]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Smithy:
Finally got pics of mine. Here are the specs.

Custom SS 1.5" OD, 1.375 ID tube with griffin taper mount adapter. I milled the knurls on the adapter and end cap and modified a buttstock wrench to aid in removal. I will also be drilling and tapping for a Allen head set screw on the Griffin mount adapter end. 8.5" 300 BLK barrel. The bore is .368-.375.

The internals are as follows,

2" ti spacer
VSR baffle
1/2" ti spacer
VSR baffle
9 freeze plugs stacked with the last 2 having shorter side walls making their chambers tighter.

11 total baffles.

All are clipped except for the last FP baffle.

The middle 9 baffles are vented with 2 holes.

Weight is 21.5 ounces. Total length is 7.5".

Finish is ceramic header paint and it is very durable.

It is really quite with subs, I think most of the noise is the rifle action. I am going to shoot with a Class 3 dealer who has some silencerco cans and we are going to do a side by side.

I am very pleased with it. I am in the process of building my 10.5" 5.56 upper and will also use this can on that.

Pic of internals above the knives (one of the FP baffles are not in the pic).

Thanks for all the great info, in this thread and the others. This will not be my last. I am already planning a mini Ti can for a 5.56 SPR. I am thinkng 4.5" OAL with 4-5 Baffles using the griffin break and taper mount adapter. Can't wait!

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ryan1105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150227_182919_312_zpsl0hktgr2.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150227_182919_312_zpsl0hktgr2.jpg</a>

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ryan1105/media/300%20BLK_zpsjwmbqrmx.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/300%20BLK_zpsjwmbqrmx.jpg</a>

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ryan1105/media/can1_zpstuthycvn.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/can1_zpstuthycvn.jpg</a>

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ryan1105/media/can2_zpsich1akqm.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/can2_zpsich1akqm.jpg</a>
View Quote


It seems like you're doing all the right things but, no offense, why the heck is it so heavy?
Is it just the SS tube?
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 1:07:20 PM EDT
[#45]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bradpierson26:


It seems like you're doing all the right things but, no offense, why the heck is it so heavy?
Is it just the SS tube?
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bradpierson26:
Originally Posted By Smithy:
Finally got pics of mine. Here are the specs.

Custom SS 1.5" OD, 1.375 ID tube with griffin taper mount adapter. I milled the knurls on the adapter and end cap and modified a buttstock wrench to aid in removal. I will also be drilling and tapping for a Allen head set screw on the Griffin mount adapter end. 8.5" 300 BLK barrel. The bore is .368-.375.

The internals are as follows,

2" ti spacer
VSR baffle
1/2" ti spacer
VSR baffle
9 freeze plugs stacked with the last 2 having shorter side walls making their chambers tighter.

11 total baffles.

All are clipped except for the last FP baffle.

The middle 9 baffles are vented with 2 holes.

Weight is 21.5 ounces. Total length is 7.5".

Finish is ceramic header paint and it is very durable.

It is really quite with subs, I think most of the noise is the rifle action. I am going to shoot with a Class 3 dealer who has some silencerco cans and we are going to do a side by side.

I am very pleased with it. I am in the process of building my 10.5" 5.56 upper and will also use this can on that.

Pic of internals above the knives (one of the FP baffles are not in the pic).

Thanks for all the great info, in this thread and the others. This will not be my last. I am already planning a mini Ti can for a 5.56 SPR. I am thinkng 4.5" OAL with 4-5 Baffles using the griffin break and taper mount adapter. Can't wait!

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ryan1105/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150227_182919_312_zpsl0hktgr2.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150227_182919_312_zpsl0hktgr2.jpg</a>

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ryan1105/media/300%20BLK_zpsjwmbqrmx.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/300%20BLK_zpsjwmbqrmx.jpg</a>

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ryan1105/media/can1_zpstuthycvn.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/can1_zpstuthycvn.jpg</a>

<a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ryan1105/media/can2_zpsich1akqm.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/ryan1105/can2_zpsich1akqm.jpg</a>


It seems like you're doing all the right things but, no offense, why the heck is it so heavy?
Is it just the SS tube?


No offense taken, and thanks for the compliments.

As far as the weight goes, I was hoping to keep it under 20 oz so 21 3/4 ain't to bad. If you look at other commercial 30 cal cans that are not made of ti then you can see that mine is not that much heavier especially when you consider that my can has 11 baffles in such a short stack.

If you subtract the blast chamber space and the space the end caps take up I have 11 baffles in about a 4" space.

I will be sending it to ADCO for a recontour. I think I will go to a gov profile behind the gas port. How many ounces do you guys think that would shave off of a heavy barrel?
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 1:19:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bradpierson26] [#46]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Smithy:

I will be sending it to ADCO for a recontour. I think I will go to a gov profile behind the gas port. How many ounces do you guys think that would shave off of a heavy barrel?
View Quote

I sent an HBAR 762x39 barrel to adco a few months ago.

I'll have to look up my numbers but I seem to recall a 16" 32.78 oz barrel getting cut to 12.5" and reprofiled behind the gas port to 0.660" dropped it to like 23oz while maintaining .730" forward of the gas port to the muzzle
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 1:33:09 PM EDT
[#47]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bradpierson26:

I sent an HBAR 762x39 barrel to adco a few months ago.

I'll have to look up my numbers but I seem to recall a 16" 32oz barrel getting cut to 12.5" and reprofiled behind the gas port dropped it to like 23oz
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Originally Posted By bradpierson26:
Originally Posted By Smithy:

I will be sending it to ADCO for a recontour. I think I will go to a gov profile behind the gas port. How many ounces do you guys think that would shave off of a heavy barrel?

I sent an HBAR 762x39 barrel to adco a few months ago.

I'll have to look up my numbers but I seem to recall a 16" 32oz barrel getting cut to 12.5" and reprofiled behind the gas port dropped it to like 23oz


Its an 8.5"  1/8 twist barrel so behind the gas block is only 3-4" long. I am hoping it will drop the weight by around 5 ounces but that might be over confident. I thought about selling the barrel and getting an 8" 1/7 barrel but so far this one has functioned flawless with subs and supers, suppressed and usuppressed so I am afraid to change barrels for the fear of getting one that is over gassed or under gassed. And I like the 1/8 twist vs the 1/7.

Link Posted: 3/4/2015 1:52:41 PM EDT
[#48]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Smithy:
No offense taken, and thanks for the compliments.

As far as the weight goes, I was hoping to keep it under 20 oz so 21 3/4 ain't to bad. If you look at other commercial 30 cal cans that are not made of ti then you can see that mine is not that much heavier especially when you consider that my can has 11 baffles in such a short stack.

If you subtract the blast chamber space and the space the end caps take up I have 11 baffles in about a 4" space.

I will be sending it to ADCO for a recontour. I think I will go to a gov profile behind the gas port. How many ounces do you guys think that would shave off of a heavy barrel?
View Quote

Yeah, I wouldn't call that "so heavy". I think a lot of people see cans like the Omega, the new TBAC cans, etc...and think you should be able to make all F1 cans 15oz or less. But, most of them are double-walled with the tube and spacer, and the FPs and VRs are all thicker than commercial baffles. Plus the end caps are often heavier than a welded end would be.

Hollowing out end caps, cutting legs in the FPs, using Ti for some of the parts...are all ways to help compensate for the extra weight of a DIY build. If all six of mine stay under 25oz, I'll be happy.
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 2:12:20 PM EDT
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By BigWaylon:

Yeah, I wouldn't call that "so heavy". I think a lot of people see cans like the Omega, the new TBAC cans, etc...and think you should be able to make all F1 cans 15oz or less. But, most of them are double-walled with the tube and spacer, and the FPs and VRs are all thicker than commercial baffles. Plus the end caps are often heavier than a welded end would be.

Hollowing out end caps, cutting legs in the FPs, using Ti for some of the parts...are all ways to help compensate for the extra weight of a DIY build. If all six of mine stay under 25oz, I'll be happy.
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Originally Posted By BigWaylon:
Originally Posted By Smithy:
No offense taken, and thanks for the compliments.

As far as the weight goes, I was hoping to keep it under 20 oz so 21 3/4 ain't to bad. If you look at other commercial 30 cal cans that are not made of ti then you can see that mine is not that much heavier especially when you consider that my can has 11 baffles in such a short stack.

If you subtract the blast chamber space and the space the end caps take up I have 11 baffles in about a 4" space.

I will be sending it to ADCO for a recontour. I think I will go to a gov profile behind the gas port. How many ounces do you guys think that would shave off of a heavy barrel?

Yeah, I wouldn't call that "so heavy". I think a lot of people see cans like the Omega, the new TBAC cans, etc...and think you should be able to make all F1 cans 15oz or less. But, most of them are double-walled with the tube and spacer, and the FPs and VRs are all thicker than commercial baffles. Plus the end caps are often heavier than a welded end would be.

Hollowing out end caps, cutting legs in the FPs, using Ti for some of the parts...are all ways to help compensate for the extra weight of a DIY build. If all six of mine stay under 25oz, I'll be happy.


Yeah. I think I am going to drill some holes on the griffin adapter, cut some legs in the FPs and maybe drill holes in the spacer to try to get it under 20.
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 2:14:52 PM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Smithy:


Yeah. I think I am going to drill some holes on the griffin adapter, cut some legs in the FPs and maybe drill holes in the spacer to try to get it under 20.
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Originally Posted By Smithy:
Originally Posted By BigWaylon:
Originally Posted By Smithy:
No offense taken, and thanks for the compliments.

As far as the weight goes, I was hoping to keep it under 20 oz so 21 3/4 ain't to bad. If you look at other commercial 30 cal cans that are not made of ti then you can see that mine is not that much heavier especially when you consider that my can has 11 baffles in such a short stack.

If you subtract the blast chamber space and the space the end caps take up I have 11 baffles in about a 4" space.

I will be sending it to ADCO for a recontour. I think I will go to a gov profile behind the gas port. How many ounces do you guys think that would shave off of a heavy barrel?

Yeah, I wouldn't call that "so heavy". I think a lot of people see cans like the Omega, the new TBAC cans, etc...and think you should be able to make all F1 cans 15oz or less. But, most of them are double-walled with the tube and spacer, and the FPs and VRs are all thicker than commercial baffles. Plus the end caps are often heavier than a welded end would be.

Hollowing out end caps, cutting legs in the FPs, using Ti for some of the parts...are all ways to help compensate for the extra weight of a DIY build. If all six of mine stay under 25oz, I'll be happy.


Yeah. I think I am going to drill some holes on the griffin adapter, cut some legs in the FPs and maybe drill holes in the spacer to try to get it under 20.

I'd love to see this
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