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NC, USA
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Posted: 11/3/2014 1:54:54 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By blwngazkit:
So I gather you don't think the honing is a good idea? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
What do you all think of using a brake hone to open the ID of the tube to 1.375"? I'm talking about using the hone to open the ID up by 0.025" leaving a wall thickness of 0.0875" (1.550"-1.375"/2=0.0875"). Is this a bad idea? Should I be overly concerned about the hone getting off center or for that small of a removal, should things be OK? I'm trying to avoid taking this to my local machine shop as they have a $75 minimum charge. I am doing a test run first but I have a machinist that is going to accept mail order work from us. You mail in your tube with MO or cash and a return shipping label. Turning down the Tube will be $15, Opening the ID will be $25. For the most Ideal setup you would turn down the center OD to 1.475 and Open the ID to 1.375, which would require both services. So I gather you don't think the honing is a good idea? I don't know enough about using the honing to tell you one way or the other if it will work, how much effort it would take, if there is any distortion of the rest of the tube, etc. The 1.375 ID is ideal, Ti tube is made that size for spacers, there are FPs and VRs that size already. The threads are 1.380 so 1.375 is really close to them so be carefull. If are setup for honing already, have experience, etc I would try it. If not (you would have to buy a honer or pay someone), the $25 may be cheaper or better. |
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Posted: 11/3/2014 1:58:52 PM EDT
[#2]
I was asking since I already have a hone that is the correct size. I'm just hesitant to start honing a ~$40 tube and end up trashing it because it was a bad idea.
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Posted: 11/3/2014 3:07:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mygreenkaw]
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
I am doing a test run first but I have a machinist that is going to accept mail order work from us. You mail in your tube with MO or cash and a return shipping label. Turning down the Tube will be $15, Opening the ID will be $25. For the most Ideal setup you would turn down the center OD to 1.475 and Open the ID to 1.375, which would require both services. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
What do you all think of using a brake hone to open the ID of the tube to 1.375"? I'm talking about using the hone to open the ID up by 0.025" leaving a wall thickness of 0.0875" (1.550"-1.375"/2=0.0875"). Is this a bad idea? Should I be overly concerned about the hone getting off center or for that small of a removal, should things be OK? I'm trying to avoid taking this to my local machine shop as they have a $75 minimum charge. I am doing a test run first but I have a machinist that is going to accept mail order work from us. You mail in your tube with MO or cash and a return shipping label. Turning down the Tube will be $15, Opening the ID will be $25. For the most Ideal setup you would turn down the center OD to 1.475 and Open the ID to 1.375, which would require both services. Damn phone...Does he have ability to engrave? One stop shop... |
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Posted: 11/3/2014 3:30:18 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By civic96hb:
Are there any spacers you could buy already fitted as opposed to sanding and cutting like the OP? Also OP, just making sure, this can is a .308 for your 5.56, correct? All of his cans are being made with .308 holes. Legally he can make .308 suppressors and put them on 5.56 guns, but you cannot form 1 a 5.56 can, and open it up to be a .308 later on. |
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Posted: 11/3/2014 3:32:53 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By blwngazkit:
What do you all think of using a brake hone to open the ID of the tube to 1.375"? I'm talking about using the hone to open the ID up by 0.025" leaving a wall thickness of 0.0875" (1.550"-1.375"/2=0.0875"). Is this a bad idea? Should I be overly concerned about the hone getting off center or for that small of a removal, should things be OK? I'm trying to avoid taking this to my local machine shop as they have a $75 minimum charge. While you would be slightly increasing volume, the weight decrease would be smaller then if you were to turn down the outside. Also, I'm assuming that would only be an option if whatever you are using to bore it out would clear the threads. If you are only doing this to make the spacer fit, it seems like an expensive way to go about it (if you have to pay someone else to do it) Then you also can't cut as much weight off the tube. |
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Posted: 11/3/2014 3:33:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: InfiniteGrim]
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
The spacers don't have to be structural to the blast chamber they are just used to hold the baffles in place. I played around with 1" Ti over the weekend, cut out a section lengthwise pressed it together it would reduce to .94" so you could do this to 1.375 Ti tubing, drilled holes in one little section in a piece and cut it lengthwise just one slit and it expanded to 1.07", so you could expand 1.25" Ti tube this way. Something like this http://i59.tinypic.com/s6razs.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By civic96hb:
Are there any spacers you could buy already fitted as opposed to sanding and cutting like the OP? Also OP, just making sure, this can is a .308 for your 5.56, correct? The spacers don't have to be structural to the blast chamber they are just used to hold the baffles in place. I played around with 1" Ti over the weekend, cut out a section lengthwise pressed it together it would reduce to .94" so you could do this to 1.375 Ti tubing, drilled holes in one little section in a piece and cut it lengthwise just one slit and it expanded to 1.07", so you could expand 1.25" Ti tube this way. Something like this http://i59.tinypic.com/s6razs.jpg Personally if you plan to turn down the tube, I would keep the spacers intact to help with holding the pressures. The weight of the materials is already going to be there, you might aswell have it do something usefull. |
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Posted: 11/3/2014 5:03:36 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-: I did not check the Tube itself, I did check the Blast chamber insert. Before firing it was 1.345 and after tonight it is 1.345. I am assuming it is what will be taking the biggest pounding getting hit by the comps and it did not change. It slid out like it went in, the baffle stack I had to knock out lightly but that was do to the fouling inside the can, without cleaning they all slid back in like new. Blast chamber insert is .05" thick Blast chamber insert. I took this pic as the waffles pattern from the 556 flash comp was cool looking, 556 was shot after all the 300BLK and shot in a short timeframe. Now that I look at this pic more, it does look like some peening is happening(in the waffled area), I cannot see or feel it in hand, and TBH I do not know if it is a bad thing as it would be hardening the insert but repetitive? http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/Waffles.JPG Griffin Comp adapter, at about the 6th thread from the bottom is where the threading ends on the comp and the first chamber starts. http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/Griffin%20adapter.JPG Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-: Originally Posted By Assaultdog03516: Have you taken before and after measurements of the inner diameter? I'm curious if the pressure has deformed the baffles. I did not check the Tube itself, I did check the Blast chamber insert. Before firing it was 1.345 and after tonight it is 1.345. I am assuming it is what will be taking the biggest pounding getting hit by the comps and it did not change. It slid out like it went in, the baffle stack I had to knock out lightly but that was do to the fouling inside the can, without cleaning they all slid back in like new. Blast chamber insert is .05" thick Blast chamber insert. I took this pic as the waffles pattern from the 556 flash comp was cool looking, 556 was shot after all the 300BLK and shot in a short timeframe. Now that I look at this pic more, it does look like some peening is happening(in the waffled area), I cannot see or feel it in hand, and TBH I do not know if it is a bad thing as it would be hardening the insert but repetitive? http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/Waffles.JPG Griffin Comp adapter, at about the 6th thread from the bottom is where the threading ends on the comp and the first chamber starts. http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/Griffin%20adapter.JPG |
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Posted: 11/3/2014 5:38:00 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Assaultdog03516:
So far so good it seems. Have you measured the freeze plugs also? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Assaultdog03516:
So far so good it seems. Have you measured the freeze plugs also? Outside as well as inside diameter(the bore hole) of the freeze plugs remains the same as post firing. I cannot detect any changes to the baffles. Originally Posted By civic96hb:
Are there any spacers you could buy already fitted as opposed to sanding and cutting like the OP? Also OP, just making sure, this can is a .308 for your 5.56, correct? If you can find a tube that is 1.35 OD then yes, I have not seen any however. You could use 1.25 OD tubing, but that will leave a big gap and I would prefer a tighter fit. And yes on the .308, I am not going for ultimate suppression for 556 and prefer the multitasker ability of a 308 can for 556. For Honing I took a thick piece of 1.25" inside diameter x 1.5" long tubing and used a brake hone in an attempt to up the inside diameter to 1.345" to swage the freeze plugs if needed, after about 20 minutes of honing I increased the diameter a whole .005..... possible but you will be there forever. |
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Posted: 11/3/2014 6:00:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: blwngazkit]
[#9]
Well, thanks for the check on the honing... On the plus side, I found a local guy I used to work with who has a lathe and is willing to help me for free as he wants to see how this works out!
This is my current plan; thoughts? The idea is to keep the tubing thick in the blast chamber (mostly for safety; it's definitely overkill and I may shrink it some); increase the ID to 1.375" where the baffles will reside and take up the slack at the front end with a spacer of aluminum or shorten the endcap. I think I can turn the OD at the front threads down a bit and still have plenty of bite but I won't know for sure until I have the parts in hand; unless one of you guys can comment on that. Does this make sense?  |
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Posted: 11/3/2014 6:02:46 PM EDT
[#10]
To those of you interested in the griffin brake.... Here is a little visual comparison.
From what I can see, the griffin is much beefier, it also is 1/4" or so shorter. In the picture it looks like I have it further back, that is because there is a recess and that is how it would sit on the barrel. 
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Posted: 11/3/2014 7:00:29 PM EDT
[#11]
How much meat needs to be left in the threaded area of the tube?
My end caps measure 1.430" OD at the threads. If I trim the OD of the tube to 1.500" that would leave a wall thickness of 0.070" in the threaded area; seems OK to me... |
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USA
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Posted: 11/3/2014 7:42:00 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
#1 AAC says it has holes in each baffle it is not a matter of opinion, the Surefire obvious has a lot of hole because they are visible in the cut away. #2 Yeah it kind of does, unless they both only put holes in one side of the suppressor for some really crazy reason and the person that cut them in half just happened to get lucky and cut at exactly the right spot, and then after both of those happened the person doing it decided not to mention that the two halves were vastly different. Those are two of the best performing designs, they use tight stacks and venting. Most modern tight stack designs have ports, venting or clipped baffles to disrupt airflow and equalize pressures. Its pretty reasonable for someone building a form 1 can that basically has permission to build one can, and not to conduct R&D to just copy the top performing cans #3 that is the old design with the big chambers not the good modern one. Not sure what the point of that argument was, the tight vented stack performed much better which is why AAC updated it. 1. I'm unaware of any official AAC statement on that matter, but if they say it's for drainage and not sound, I believe them. They have always been honest about design features, hell, they are the ones who release all these core photos. 2. I just can't explain this to you any more, I don't think your spatial reasoning is as good as you believe. 3. That is NOT an old design, they simply don't show all the baffles. AAC did not switch to fluted comes until the Mod 08 cans came out, the M4-2000 has had seven baffles since then and has not been updated. 3a. If you think Surefire makes high-performance baffles you are truly foolish. They make silencers that are excellent for a variety of reasons but they are poor sound performers compared to most. Part of the reason is the heavily ported baffles, they reduce cyclic rate (a military demand) but sap decibels because they reduce the stack's ability to contain the gases. But hey, I've only been doing this for a decade, designed a bunch of silencer cores, and had private conversations on the matter with Rob Silvers, Kevin Brittingham, David Saylors, Austin from Griffin, etc. WTF do I know. 
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Posted: 11/3/2014 9:11:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Assaultdog03516]
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Conqueror: 1. I'm unaware of any official AAC statement on that matter, but if they say it's for drainage and not sound, I believe them. They have always been honest about design features, hell, they are the ones who release all these core photos. 2. I just can't explain this to you any more, I don't think your spatial reasoning is as good as you believe. 3. That is NOT an old design, they simply don't show all the baffles. AAC did not switch to fluted comes until the Mod 08 cans came out, the M4-2000 has had seven baffles since then and has not been updated. 3a. If you think Surefire makes high-performance baffles you are truly foolish. They make silencers that are excellent for a variety of reasons but they are poor sound performers compared to most. Part of the reason is the heavily ported baffles, they reduce cyclic rate (a military demand) but sap decibels because they reduce the stack's ability to contain the gases. But hey, I've only been doing this for a decade, designed a bunch of silencer cores, and had private conversations on the matter with Rob Silvers, Kevin Brittingham, David Saylors, Austin from Griffin, etc. WTF do I know. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Conqueror: Originally Posted By c5hardtop: #1 AAC says it has holes in each baffle it is not a matter of opinion, the Surefire obvious has a lot of hole because they are visible in the cut away. #2 Yeah it kind of does, unless they both only put holes in one side of the suppressor for some really crazy reason and the person that cut them in half just happened to get lucky and cut at exactly the right spot, and then after both of those happened the person doing it decided not to mention that the two halves were vastly different. Those are two of the best performing designs, they use tight stacks and venting. Most modern tight stack designs have ports, venting or clipped baffles to disrupt airflow and equalize pressures. Its pretty reasonable for someone building a form 1 can that basically has permission to build one can, and not to conduct R&D to just copy the top performing cans #3 that is the old design with the big chambers not the good modern one. Not sure what the point of that argument was, the tight vented stack performed much better which is why AAC updated it. 1. I'm unaware of any official AAC statement on that matter, but if they say it's for drainage and not sound, I believe them. They have always been honest about design features, hell, they are the ones who release all these core photos. 2. I just can't explain this to you any more, I don't think your spatial reasoning is as good as you believe. 3. That is NOT an old design, they simply don't show all the baffles. AAC did not switch to fluted comes until the Mod 08 cans came out, the M4-2000 has had seven baffles since then and has not been updated. 3a. If you think Surefire makes high-performance baffles you are truly foolish. They make silencers that are excellent for a variety of reasons but they are poor sound performers compared to most. Part of the reason is the heavily ported baffles, they reduce cyclic rate (a military demand) but sap decibels because they reduce the stack's ability to contain the gases. But hey, I've only been doing this for a decade, designed a bunch of silencer cores, and had private conversations on the matter with Rob Silvers, Kevin Brittingham, David Saylors, Austin from Griffin, etc. WTF do I know.  |
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Posted: 11/4/2014 1:33:13 AM EDT
[#14]
Griffin Finally installed.
Form 1 is 1 week out 
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Posted: 11/4/2014 3:26:20 AM EDT
[#15]
SD tactical says that the Dorman freeze plugs are no longer the correct size for their centering tool, and they say they have a new made in usa supplier. Is there somewhere the correct freeze plugs can be found that doesn't charge $2.40 a piece?
i've been saving my pennies for a manufactured suppressor but now i might just do a form 1 for less money and less waiting. |
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Posted: 11/4/2014 3:54:28 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Strizzo:
SD tactical says that the Dorman freeze plugs are no longer the correct size for their centering tool, and they say they have a new made in usa supplier. Is there somewhere the correct freeze plugs can be found that doesn't charge $2.40 a piece? i've been saving my pennies for a manufactured suppressor but now i might just do a form 1 for less money and less waiting. In the first post I list the product number and show a picture of the bag. You can order then through your local auto parts store and should be between $.40 and $.80 each. The Doorman ones are a bit wider so they need to be pounded into the tube or turned down a touch and they do not fit the centering(just a bit to tight) The proper freeze plugs seem to be a nicer product to. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 11/4/2014 9:39:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: c5hardtop]
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Strizzo:
SD tactical says that the Dorman freeze plugs are no longer the correct size for their centering tool, and they say they have a new made in usa supplier. Is there somewhere the correct freeze plugs can be found that doesn't charge $2.40 a piece? i've been saving my pennies for a manufactured suppressor but now i might just do a form 1 for less money and less waiting. Sealed Power SEP 381-3179 for D tube 1.350 Sealed Power SEP 381-3016 for C tube 1.000 Sealed Power SEP 381-3080 for 1.375 Custom D tube $.69 at Napa |
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Posted: 11/4/2014 11:48:08 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim: Griffin Finally installed. Form 1 is 1 week out http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g165/InfiniteGrim/20141104_000102.jpg http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g165/InfiniteGrim/20141104_0002000.jpg |
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Posted: 11/4/2014 12:42:28 PM EDT
[#19]
My only concern is submitting the Form 1 and getting all the supplies to find out I can't put it together.
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Posted: 11/4/2014 12:56:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BigWaylon]
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gunut:
Infinite, how do you know if your form 1 is a week out? this is my first form 1 and it went pending on the 16th of October. Is there a way to find out? He doesn't know. It's an estimate. Most of the recent approvals are running 30-35 days. I submitted one 10/10 and an expecting it back by next Friday, 11/14. You're probably looking at sometime later the following week, definitely should be before Turkey Day. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 11/4/2014 1:24:59 PM EDT
[#21]
I've been wanting a can for my 7.5 ar for a while now and I'm wondering if you guys think one of these form 1 cans, specifically the 6 inch tube would hold up to the blast. I know it wouldn't be hearing safe, but I'm looking for hearing safe can with only one set of ear pro. Maybe just some muffs without plugs under. I also would love it if it didn't grenade so I wouldn't be turning the tube at all for weight savings.
Fo? |
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Posted: 11/4/2014 4:25:10 PM EDT
[#22]
Thanks for the info on the freeze plugs, looks like sd has just about everything else I'd need.
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Posted: 11/4/2014 6:18:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: pdm]
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mizzarley:
I've been wanting a can for my 7.5 ar for a while now and I'm wondering if you guys think one of these form 1 cans, specifically the 6 inch tube would hold up to the blast. I know it wouldn't be hearing safe, but I'm looking for hearing safe can with only one set of ear pro. Maybe just some muffs without plugs under. I also would love it if it didn't grenade so I wouldn't be turning the tube at all for weight savings. Fo? I think it would hold up for a short period. I used my AAC M4-2K on my 7.5" for a short while and it definitely tore up the blast baffle....and that's Inconel steel and I was using the AAC muzzle brake. Hitting mild freeze plug steel with that blast has got to be like a cutting torch. |
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Posted: 11/4/2014 7:12:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: esstac-]
[#24]
2 quick videos forming the 45 and 60deg cones using a Harbor Freight 20ton press and a 7/8" socket.
Original hole was drilled using the SDtac centering tool and a 1/8" drill bit, video got cut off at the end but the hold ends up at .2" after forming 
Forming the 60deg after the 45deg. Hole size started at .2" and ended at .365, a touch more in the press and it could have been final hole size of .370 for 30 cal
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Posted: 11/4/2014 7:35:07 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
2 quick videos forming the 45 and 60deg cones using a Harbor Freight 20ton press and a 7/8" socket. Original hole was drilled using the SDtac centering tool and a 1/8" drill bit, video got cut off at the end but the hold ends up at .2" after forming  http://youtu.be/F0HNdxxfQMk
Forming the 60deg after the 45deg. Hole size started at .2" and ended at .365, a touch more in the press and it could have been final hole size of .370 for 30 cal http://youtu.be/2Cuw1r2znacThanks for posting this! It really helps |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 11/4/2014 8:11:01 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
2 quick videos forming the 45 and 60deg cones using a Harbor Freight 20ton press and a 7/8" socket. Original hole was drilled using the SDtac centering tool and a 1/8" drill bit, video got cut off at the end but the hold ends up at .2" after forming http://youtu.be/F0HNdxxfQMk
Forming the 60deg after the 45deg. Hole size started at .2" and ended at .365, a touch more in the press and it could have been final hole size of .370 for 30 cal http://youtu.be/2Cuw1r2znacWhat size hole did you start with? I'm planning on doing one for a .22 so I'd like to end with a smaller ID and wondering if I'll be able to start with a small enough hole to achieve that. |
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Posted: 11/4/2014 8:35:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bullz_aye]
[#27]
just curious - do you have any measurements of the sound reduction that these cans make? i'm wanting a can to make 308 (and 223) more sociable. Not without hearing protection, just quieter - do these help much? If nothing else, i'll just have to build one and measure it :)
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Posted: 11/4/2014 9:08:16 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bullz_aye: just curious - do you have any measurements of the sound reduction that these cans make? i'm wanting a can to make 308 (and 223) more sociable. Not without hearing protection, just quieter - do these help much? |
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Posted: 11/4/2014 9:22:11 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AlabamaPaul:
Most Form 1 filers do not have the ability to accurately measure sound reduction... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AlabamaPaul:
Originally Posted By bullz_aye:
just curious - do you have any measurements of the sound reduction that these cans make? i'm wanting a can to make 308 (and 223) more sociable. Not without hearing protection, just quieter - do these help much? I'm just waiting for a couple of items to sell before I file a form one on one of these. If no one else is able to get sound meters by the time all is said and done, I have a source for one I think. That, and a couple of other suppressors to compare it to. |
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Posted: 11/4/2014 9:29:50 PM EDT
[#30]
That's what I'm waiting on is to find out how well these work. I'm ready to either pull the trigger on a Saker 7.62 or build one of these freeze plug suppressors on a form 1. If the difference isn't all that much I'd rather spend $200 building it myself.
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Posted: 11/4/2014 10:14:42 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PineappleDevil: That's what I'm waiting on is to find out how well these work. I'm ready to either pull the trigger on a Saker 7.62 or build one of these freeze plug suppressors on a form 1. If the difference isn't all that much I'd rather spend $200 building it myself.  |
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Posted: 11/4/2014 10:35:30 PM EDT
[Last Edit: angelbeast6]
[#32]
So to confirm
With an approved Form 1 the options are: http://preppersdiscount.com/ http://apogeeproducts.com/products Only for tubes http://sdtacticalarms-com.3dcartstores.com/ And in regards to the Form 1, whatever length you put on there is your MAXIMUM length but you can dice to go shorter? Anyone find this in writing? |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 8:37:59 AM EDT
[#33]
Has anyone tried to mimic these baffles with the freeze plugs? I see that many are making M baffles by pushing the center into the middle of the plug, but I wonder how easy it would be push the middle in the opposite direction. Add a spacer in front of the walls of the plug and drill a side hole to the exit and it seems like it'd be a great baffle.
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Posted: 11/5/2014 9:13:51 AM EDT
[#34]
Functionally they're the same.
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NC, USA
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Posted: 11/5/2014 10:19:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: c5hardtop]
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bullz_aye:
just curious - do you have any measurements of the sound reduction that these cans make? i'm wanting a can to make 308 (and 223) more sociable. Not without hearing protection, just quieter - do these help much? If nothing else, i'll just have to build one and measure it :) I'm going to use the iOS and Android apps just to see and (non Scientifically compare with my ears to commercial cans. My understanding the sound meters that are suitable are all over $1.5-2k used if you can find one, they typical then need to go back to manufactor for a refresh and calibration, and you have to purchase a specific mic for it, a couple hundred for calibration and service and I think the mics can run in the $800-1500 range also. Some people have said the iOS and Android apps are close to the performance of other cheap sound meters. B&K model 2209 and Larson Davis 800B are the ones that are fast enough to get a correct measurement. |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 10:43:01 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By blwngazkit:
Functionally they're the same. In theory you may get a slightly larger cone. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 11/5/2014 12:28:53 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pdm:
I think it would hold up for a short period. I used my AAC M4-2K on my 7.5" for a short while and it definitely tore up the blast baffle....and that's Inconel steel and I was using the AAC muzzle brake. Hitting mild freeze plug steel with that blast has got to be like a cutting torch. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pdm:
Originally Posted By mizzarley:
I've been wanting a can for my 7.5 ar for a while now and I'm wondering if you guys think one of these form 1 cans, specifically the 6 inch tube would hold up to the blast. I know it wouldn't be hearing safe, but I'm looking for hearing safe can with only one set of ear pro. Maybe just some muffs without plugs under. I also would love it if it didn't grenade so I wouldn't be turning the tube at all for weight savings. Fo? I think it would hold up for a short period. I used my AAC M4-2K on my 7.5" for a short while and it definitely tore up the blast baffle....and that's Inconel steel and I was using the AAC muzzle brake. Hitting mild freeze plug steel with that blast has got to be like a cutting torch. I was thinking more along the lines of the tube detonating, that's what I'm worried about. I'm not really worried about baffle erosion. I'd just shoot the hell out of it and file another form 1 and repair/replace the torn up parts  . I get paid at midnight and I'm gunna file a form 1.
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Posted: 11/5/2014 12:41:41 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mizzarley:
I was thinking more along the lines of the tube detonating, that's what I'm worried about. I'm not really worried about baffle erosion. I'd just shoot the hell out of it and file another form 1 and repair/replace the torn up parts . I get paid at midnight and I'm gunna file a form 1.Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mizzarley:
Originally Posted By pdm:
Originally Posted By mizzarley:
I've been wanting a can for my 7.5 ar for a while now and I'm wondering if you guys think one of these form 1 cans, specifically the 6 inch tube would hold up to the blast. I know it wouldn't be hearing safe, but I'm looking for hearing safe can with only one set of ear pro. Maybe just some muffs without plugs under. I also would love it if it didn't grenade so I wouldn't be turning the tube at all for weight savings. Fo? I think it would hold up for a short period. I used my AAC M4-2K on my 7.5" for a short while and it definitely tore up the blast baffle....and that's Inconel steel and I was using the AAC muzzle brake. Hitting mild freeze plug steel with that blast has got to be like a cutting torch. I was thinking more along the lines of the tube detonating, that's what I'm worried about. I'm not really worried about baffle erosion. I'd just shoot the hell out of it and file another form 1 and repair/replace the torn up parts . I get paid at midnight and I'm gunna file a form 1.The pressure difference between a 20" and a 7.5" 556 is pretty incredible (over 3x higher on the sbr). I'd certainly not be turning down a tube any or running it hard if I used it in that application. |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 12:53:27 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mizzarley:
I was thinking more along the lines of the tube detonating, that's what I'm worried about. I'm not really worried about baffle erosion. I'd just shoot the hell out of it and file another form 1 and repair/replace the torn up parts . I get paid at midnight and I'm gunna file a form 1.Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mizzarley:
Originally Posted By pdm:
Originally Posted By mizzarley:
I've been wanting a can for my 7.5 ar for a while now and I'm wondering if you guys think one of these form 1 cans, specifically the 6 inch tube would hold up to the blast. I know it wouldn't be hearing safe, but I'm looking for hearing safe can with only one set of ear pro. Maybe just some muffs without plugs under. I also would love it if it didn't grenade so I wouldn't be turning the tube at all for weight savings. Fo? I think it would hold up for a short period. I used my AAC M4-2K on my 7.5" for a short while and it definitely tore up the blast baffle....and that's Inconel steel and I was using the AAC muzzle brake. Hitting mild freeze plug steel with that blast has got to be like a cutting torch. I was thinking more along the lines of the tube detonating, that's what I'm worried about. I'm not really worried about baffle erosion. I'd just shoot the hell out of it and file another form 1 and repair/replace the torn up parts . I get paid at midnight and I'm gunna file a form 1.You could use one of the valve spring retainers that are mentioned in the other thread as the initial baffle. Given that it is thicker and stronger it would likely hold up the blast better than a fp. That is what I am planning to use, and then go fps from there to the end. |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 1:33:07 PM EDT
[#40]
Does anyone know how much the end caps stick out when threaded, reason I ask is that I've got an approved form 1 for a 32acp caliber st 12" and a 45acp caliber at 8" , and I'd like to build them with off the shelf parts like the rest of y'all. The 32acp I was thinking the 10.75 dual internal thread stainless that apogee has, but with the end caps if each sticks out an inch I'm over the 12" mark. Yeah looking back the 32acp might be too long built but it was being made for a scorpion 32 , and a custom converted single shot 12ga thst has a drop in caliber adapter down to 32 with the end muzzle threaded for 1/2-28
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NC, USA
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Posted: 11/5/2014 1:42:29 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By andrewbp:
Does anyone know how much the end caps stick out when threaded, reason I ask is that I've got an approved form 1 for a 32acp caliber st 12" and a 45acp caliber at 8" , and I'd like to build them with off the shelf parts like the rest of y'all. The 32acp I was thinking the 10.75 dual internal thread stainless that apogee has, but with the end caps if each sticks out an inch I'm over the 12" mark. Yeah looking back the 32acp might be too long built but it was being made for a scorpion 32 , and a custom converted single shot 12ga thst has a drop in caliber adapter down to 32 with the end muzzle threaded for 1/2-28 It would be under 12" still, really? probably a 3 lbs suppressor for 32acp! |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 3:27:15 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mizzarley:
I was thinking more along the lines of the tube detonating, that's what I'm worried about. I'm not really worried about baffle erosion. I'd just shoot the hell out of it and file another form 1 and repair/replace the torn up parts . I get paid at midnight and I'm gunna file a form 1.Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mizzarley:
Originally Posted By pdm:
Originally Posted By mizzarley:
I've been wanting a can for my 7.5 ar for a while now and I'm wondering if you guys think one of these form 1 cans, specifically the 6 inch tube would hold up to the blast. I know it wouldn't be hearing safe, but I'm looking for hearing safe can with only one set of ear pro. Maybe just some muffs without plugs under. I also would love it if it didn't grenade so I wouldn't be turning the tube at all for weight savings. Fo? I think it would hold up for a short period. I used my AAC M4-2K on my 7.5" for a short while and it definitely tore up the blast baffle....and that's Inconel steel and I was using the AAC muzzle brake. Hitting mild freeze plug steel with that blast has got to be like a cutting torch. I was thinking more along the lines of the tube detonating, that's what I'm worried about. I'm not really worried about baffle erosion. I'd just shoot the hell out of it and file another form 1 and repair/replace the torn up parts . I get paid at midnight and I'm gunna file a form 1.I thought you could replace the baffles on your form 1 build as long as you destroyed the original baffle first. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 11/5/2014 3:39:53 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SilverBearX:
I thought you could replace the baffles on your form 1 build as long as you destroyed the original baffle first. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SilverBearX:
Originally Posted By mizzarley:
Originally Posted By pdm:
Originally Posted By mizzarley:
I've been wanting a can for my 7.5 ar for a while now and I'm wondering if you guys think one of these form 1 cans, specifically the 6 inch tube would hold up to the blast. I know it wouldn't be hearing safe, but I'm looking for hearing safe can with only one set of ear pro. Maybe just some muffs without plugs under. I also would love it if it didn't grenade so I wouldn't be turning the tube at all for weight savings. Fo? I think it would hold up for a short period. I used my AAC M4-2K on my 7.5" for a short while and it definitely tore up the blast baffle....and that's Inconel steel and I was using the AAC muzzle brake. Hitting mild freeze plug steel with that blast has got to be like a cutting torch. I was thinking more along the lines of the tube detonating, that's what I'm worried about. I'm not really worried about baffle erosion. I'd just shoot the hell out of it and file another form 1 and repair/replace the torn up parts . I get paid at midnight and I'm gunna file a form 1.I thought you could replace the baffles on your form 1 build as long as you destroyed the original baffle first. People go back and forth on that. I'll of course obey the law, I just don't want to build a supressor that ends of throwing schapnel in my face. |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 4:31:16 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
It would be under 12" still, really? probably a 3 lbs suppressor for 32acp! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By andrewbp:
Does anyone know how much the end caps stick out when threaded, reason I ask is that I've got an approved form 1 for a 32acp caliber st 12" and a 45acp caliber at 8" , and I'd like to build them with off the shelf parts like the rest of y'all. The 32acp I was thinking the 10.75 dual internal thread stainless that apogee has, but with the end caps if each sticks out an inch I'm over the 12" mark. Yeah looking back the 32acp might be too long built but it was being made for a scorpion 32 , and a custom converted single shot 12ga thst has a drop in caliber adapter down to 32 with the end muzzle threaded for 1/2-28 It would be under 12" still, really? probably a 3 lbs suppressor for 32acp! Lol yeah I tend to accidentally overbuild stuff. I blame my engineering family. Mom has 5 bachelors, 2 masters and a phD , all in various engineering fields |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 6:28:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: esstac-]
[#45]
6" v 8" video
8" had a failure to feed on the third round so kinda borked the video, will re-shoot it tomorrow.
2 identical AR15, with the exception of one with a SIG brace and one SBered. Both have 10.5" barrels(same make/model) Shooting 249g cast, although they are a bit to oversized so they have a fail to feed now and then. |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 6:31:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: InfiniteGrim]
[#46]
Since someone doesn't have any ammo after shipping it to me.... easier viewing....
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OR, USA
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Posted: 11/5/2014 7:22:26 PM EDT
[#47]
What caliber? 300 blk? Supersonic or Subs? What two cans are we looking at? Is one commercial and the other a D size flashlight build?
Thanks! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Since someone doesn't have any ammo after shipping it to me.... easier viewing.... http://youtu.be/h8UI7Wfzyr8 |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 7:35:21 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cpy911:
What caliber? 300 blk? Supersonic or Subs? What two cans are we looking at? Is one commercial and the other a D size flashlight build? Thanks! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cpy911:
What caliber? 300 blk? Supersonic or Subs? What two cans are we looking at? Is one commercial and the other a D size flashlight build? Thanks! Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Since someone doesn't have any ammo after shipping it to me.... easier viewing.... http://youtu.be/h8UI7Wfzyr8Same 249g 300BLK as the other videos posted 6" and 8" cans are the same 6" and 8" being discussed in this thread |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 11/5/2014 7:42:46 PM EDT
[#49]
Got it. Sounds like the 8" one is a little quieter, as to be expected. Not bad sounding, a little first round pop though, but nothing bad.
Awesome build. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
Same 249g 300BLK as the other videos posted 6" and 8" cans are the same 6" and 8" being discussed in this thread Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By esstac-:
Originally Posted By cpy911:
What caliber? 300 blk? Supersonic or Subs? What two cans are we looking at? Is one commercial and the other a D size flashlight build? Thanks! Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Since someone doesn't have any ammo after shipping it to me.... easier viewing.... http://youtu.be/h8UI7Wfzyr8Same 249g 300BLK as the other videos posted 6" and 8" cans are the same 6" and 8" being discussed in this thread |
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Posted: 11/5/2014 7:47:36 PM EDT
[#50]
Subscribing!
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