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Posted: 1/14/2016 11:21:15 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryThanks for posting that up, I was wondering about that myself. |
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Posted: 1/15/2016 12:25:20 AM EDT
[#2]
Gary is one of the good guys. He was kind enough to actually email me and let me correct one Form-1 where I forgot to enter the "Reason for building" part. I was able to simply reply to his email with the verbiage I wanted, "All Lawful Purposes" and he kept my form from being denied or delayed. I'd buy him a beer if I ran into him.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/15/2016 1:46:22 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Senoj:
Gary is one of the good guys. He was kind enough to actually email me and let me correct one Form-1 where I forgot to enter the "Reason for building" part. I was able to simply reply to his email with the verbiage I wanted, "All Lawful Purposes" and he kept my form from being denied or delayed. I'd buy him a beer if I ran into him. Jason w/ ATF called me and then mailed my paper forms back to me so I could correct the manufacturer portion. Didn't take but a week back and forth, he was real nice about it. |
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Posted: 1/15/2016 10:02:12 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jim: I also built the can because i'm frugal and couldn't see dropping $$ on a commercial 30 cal can for an AK. Just in case my barrels were not concentric. Baffle strikes on $600- 1k CAN 
On a $170 unit big deal. Torch or band saw cut it rendering it inoperable. Submit another F1 and go from there. YMMV Move it to .22" LR subsonic duty. |
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Posted: 1/15/2016 10:22:26 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tucansam:
Dude won't respond to my emails. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tucansam:
Originally Posted By Jupiter7:
Originally Posted By tucansam:
What plugs/VSRs/etc are you guys using for tubes with 1" ID? I need to build a 22LR can to fit inside a rail with a 1.25" ID, and am looking at the DM tube that is 1.125" OD/1.0" ID. Not sure what to use for a stack. Chris(DM) sells a sweet little Ti VSR already coned and a direct fit to that tube. I have the same set up waiting for the stamp to start drilling. I changed the thread adapter to 1/2x28 Ti though. Wanted durability over weight. Dude won't respond to my emails. My understanding is that Chris is pretty much a one-man shop. I'd be patient with him. |
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Posted: 1/15/2016 11:12:13 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
My understanding is that Chris is pretty much a one-man shop. I'd be patient with him. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By tucansam:
Originally Posted By Jupiter7:
Originally Posted By tucansam:
What plugs/VSRs/etc are you guys using for tubes with 1" ID? I need to build a 22LR can to fit inside a rail with a 1.25" ID, and am looking at the DM tube that is 1.125" OD/1.0" ID. Not sure what to use for a stack. Chris(DM) sells a sweet little Ti VSR already coned and a direct fit to that tube. I have the same set up waiting for the stamp to start drilling. I changed the thread adapter to 1/2x28 Ti though. Wanted durability over weight. Dude won't respond to my emails. My understanding is that Chris is pretty much a one-man shop. I'd be patient with him. This...I just ordered a 6" aluminum tube from him for my first Form 1 build. Going to be a 9mm can for my 9mm SBR. It takes some time for him to get back, but he is very helpful. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/17/2016 11:53:20 PM EDT
[#7]
Your thoughts on the durability of a Ti can with Ti end caps and a mix of milled cups inside?
It would go something like this: Blast Chamber Maybe 2-3 of these cups: http://www.jmperformancefittings.com/#!product-page/c136p/38320cb9-1cf4-2c58-25c7-b1b5e42ab6ef Then the rest with these: http://www.jmperformancefittings.com/#!product-page/c136p/ea77f230-558f-57b6-cdd1-0ba565e8f827 I wonder about these things: How hot does the internal temps in a 8" can on a 7.5" adjustable gas piston SBR get? Casual firing vs dumps? What temperature will the aluminum cups structurally fail? I know that aluminum melts at 1000-1200 deg F, but with the pressures on the end of a 7.5" adjustable gas piston SBR, I wonder how low the failure point would be? What impact would the different expansion rates would have, if any? What's the worst that could happen? |
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Posted: 1/18/2016 3:58:51 AM EDT
[#8]
So if I was to stamp my own info on my aluminum tube, do I need to put anything inside of it to support it?
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Posted: 1/18/2016 11:53:48 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
So if I was to stamp my own info on my aluminum tube, do I need to put anything inside of it to support it? It is easy to bend the al tube stamping it. Practice on a spare piece and support it with a smaller steel tube inside while stamping |
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Posted: 1/19/2016 6:50:22 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
It is easy to bend the al tube stamping it. Practice on a spare piece and support it with a smaller steel tube inside while stamping Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
So if I was to stamp my own info on my aluminum tube, do I need to put anything inside of it to support it? It is easy to bend the al tube stamping it. Practice on a spare piece and support it with a smaller steel tube inside while stamping I have a 1.355 ID tube coming from DM...where would I find a 1.355 OD tube to put inside? |
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Posted: 1/19/2016 8:45:18 AM EDT
[Last Edit: wag_bag]
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
I have a 1.355 ID tube coming from DM...where would I find a 1.355 OD tube to put inside? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
So if I was to stamp my own info on my aluminum tube, do I need to put anything inside of it to support it? It is easy to bend the al tube stamping it. Practice on a spare piece and support it with a smaller steel tube inside while stamping I have a 1.355 ID tube coming from DM...where would I find a 1.355 OD tube to put inside? It doesn't have to support your outer tube all the way around, just directly below your punch. 1" steel pipe will work. Eta: the closer it is in diameter the better, though. |
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Posted: 1/19/2016 9:46:14 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
I have a 1.355 ID tube coming from DM...where would I find a 1.355 OD tube to put inside? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
So if I was to stamp my own info on my aluminum tube, do I need to put anything inside of it to support it? It is easy to bend the al tube stamping it. Practice on a spare piece and support it with a smaller steel tube inside while stamping I have a 1.355 ID tube coming from DM...where would I find a 1.355 OD tube to put inside? I use the SDTA 1.33" heavy steel spacer pipe for mine, but you can use any piece of off the shelf pipe 1.25" OD or more. You slide the form1 tube over it and support the and elevate the support tube on something (I used vice blocks) and stamp away. Practice on a spare piece of pipe of the same material first so you can get the feel for the right hit. Generally Ti will bounce back and Steel and Al will bend in. Having a good stamp set to work with is key. |
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Posted: 1/19/2016 11:54:27 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
I use the SDTA 1.33" heavy steel spacer pipe for mine, but you can use any piece of off the shelf pipe 1.25" OD or more. You slide the form1 tube over it and support the and elevate the support tube on something (I used vice blocks) and stamp away. Practice on a spare piece of pipe of the same material first so you can get the feel for the right hit. Generally Ti will bounce back and Steel and Al will bend in. Having a good stamp set to work with is key. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
So if I was to stamp my own info on my aluminum tube, do I need to put anything inside of it to support it? It is easy to bend the al tube stamping it. Practice on a spare piece and support it with a smaller steel tube inside while stamping I have a 1.355 ID tube coming from DM...where would I find a 1.355 OD tube to put inside? I use the SDTA 1.33" heavy steel spacer pipe for mine, but you can use any piece of off the shelf pipe 1.25" OD or more. You slide the form1 tube over it and support the and elevate the support tube on something (I used vice blocks) and stamp away. Practice on a spare piece of pipe of the same material first so you can get the feel for the right hit. Generally Ti will bounce back and Steel and Al will bend in. Having a good stamp set to work with is key. Suggestions? Is it worth it to invest in if you have 2-3 F1 cans planned? |
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Posted: 1/20/2016 9:20:51 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SouthernBeau:
Suggestions? Is it worth it to invest in if you have 2-3 F1 cans planned? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SouthernBeau:
Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By OilfieldTrash78:
So if I was to stamp my own info on my aluminum tube, do I need to put anything inside of it to support it? It is easy to bend the al tube stamping it. Practice on a spare piece and support it with a smaller steel tube inside while stamping I have a 1.355 ID tube coming from DM...where would I find a 1.355 OD tube to put inside? I use the SDTA 1.33" heavy steel spacer pipe for mine, but you can use any piece of off the shelf pipe 1.25" OD or more. You slide the form1 tube over it and support the and elevate the support tube on something (I used vice blocks) and stamp away. Practice on a spare piece of pipe of the same material first so you can get the feel for the right hit. Generally Ti will bounce back and Steel and Al will bend in. Having a good stamp set to work with is key. Suggestions? Is it worth it to invest in if you have 2-3 F1 cans planned? I recall paying about $12 or so. I think this is the set I have: http://www.ebay.com/itm/36-pc-5-64-2MM-Letter-Number-Steel-Stamp-Die-Punch-Jewelers-Set-Metal-in-Case-/171986156269?hash=item280b2c7aed:g:86wAAOSw5ZBWN3x3 Note that is is barely over the minimum size. The smaller size stamps are easier to do by hand, also less noticeable. The Harbor Freight sets the numbers or letters are not aligned good on the stamp, they often are missing letters or numbers, and they are not cut clean. |
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Posted: 1/20/2016 10:32:19 AM EDT
[#15]
Anyone tried stamping titanium tubes? Results?
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PA, USA
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Posted: 1/20/2016 4:40:57 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AR_DIESEL:
Anyone tried stamping titanium tubes? Results? Yes, grade 5 titanium tube. Used a slug in ID of tube so it won't collapse. Used a better stamp set than harbor freight. 
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Posted: 1/20/2016 5:21:26 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lilpooh:
Yes, grade 5 titanium tube. Used a slug in ID of tube so it won't collapse. Used a better stamp set than harbor freight. <a href="http://s598.photobucket.com/user/lilpooh6l/media/FC34CA6F-D14B-4427-8B17-E8BC9248E9A7.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/tt62/lilpooh6l/FC34CA6F-D14B-4427-8B17-E8BC9248E9A7.jpg</a> <a href="http://s598.photobucket.com/user/lilpooh6l/media/15A28B3E-0795-4F9C-B1CC-F27F65D59A61.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/tt62/lilpooh6l/15A28B3E-0795-4F9C-B1CC-F27F65D59A61.jpg</a> Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lilpooh:
Originally Posted By AR_DIESEL:
Anyone tried stamping titanium tubes? Results? Yes, grade 5 titanium tube. Used a slug in ID of tube so it won't collapse. Used a better stamp set than harbor freight. <a href="http://s598.photobucket.com/user/lilpooh6l/media/FC34CA6F-D14B-4427-8B17-E8BC9248E9A7.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/tt62/lilpooh6l/FC34CA6F-D14B-4427-8B17-E8BC9248E9A7.jpg</a> <a href="http://s598.photobucket.com/user/lilpooh6l/media/15A28B3E-0795-4F9C-B1CC-F27F65D59A61.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i598.photobucket.com/albums/tt62/lilpooh6l/15A28B3E-0795-4F9C-B1CC-F27F65D59A61.jpg</a> Good enough for govt work. Thanks for posting pics! |
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Posted: 1/21/2016 12:58:20 PM EDT
[#18]
Suggestions? Is it worth it to invest in if you have 2-3 F1 cans planned? I recall paying about $12 or so. I think this is the set I have: http://www.ebay.com/itm/36-pc-5-64-2MM-Letter-Number-Steel-Stamp-Die-Punch-Jewelers-Set-Metal-in-Case-/171986156269?hash=item280b2c7aed:g:86wAAOSw5ZBWN3x3 Note that is is barely over the minimum size. The smaller size stamps are easier to do by hand, also less noticeable. The Harbor Freight sets the numbers or letters are not aligned good on the stamp, they often are missing letters or numbers, and they are not cut clean. YES. The ability to do it "in house" is part of the fun. My use of them worked. I did however strike them off the bottom of the stamping, then flat on top. Not perfect, but legible and legal. Of course everything when using the term Legal, is subject to change in the NFA world. IF i were to stamp another one. I would go with the linked set |
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Posted: 1/22/2016 3:09:35 PM EDT
[#19]
I have read this thread and it's full of information and thank everybody for helpful information, One thing I do wish is for the major points from others were integrated into the first post or a few down to help the new people like myself. Such as Freeze Plug sizes, OD and ID of different tubes, etc
With that in mind here is my proposed design. I haven't filled out the form 1 yet nor ordered parts, just making sure I can do this with a very small amount of effort and tools while still getting a pretty good suppressor. My first will be for an AR in 556, 16 in barrel and this will also be used on a 22lr from time to time as testing and plinking. Depending on how the first one goes I plan on several more. Tube: SDtac 5.5in carbon steel tube ~ 31 Rear Cap: STtac 1/2x28 carbon steel ~ 35 End Cap: SDtac end cap carbon steel ~ 35 Spacers: DM Titanium ~ 6-10 Freeze plug: Sealed power 34.3mm ~ 10-15 Maybe a SS plug, challenge coin, or Valve Spring Retainer for first baffle Looking around the net, it seems the cheapest way to get started with FP forming is the method SDtac uses. After the stamp, drill a 1/8in hole and using tapered torx bits, going smaller to larger using my 4ton HF press until the hole is of size for the projecticle and the cone is what I want. I plan on 1.5-2 in for the blast chamber. If I use a SS plug as the first baffle, I would drill a couple mouse holes in it. As I don't have a solid way to cut the pipe square, I will buy several lengths of the DM precut spacer and mix and match to see what fits good. Thoughts on the SS Plug, Coin, or VSR? I have seem them all used and ofcourse the SS is cheaper but dunno if better long term. Thoughts on my plan? |
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Posted: 1/22/2016 3:43:31 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By craig24680:
I have read this thread and it's full of information and thank everybody for helpful information, One thing I do wish is for the major points from others were integrated into the first post or a few down to help the new people like myself. Such as Freeze Plug sizes, OD and ID of different tubes, etc With that in mind here is my proposed design. I haven't filled out the form 1 yet nor ordered parts, just making sure I can do this with a very small amount of effort and tools while still getting a pretty good suppressor. My first will be for an AR in 556, 16 in barrel and this will also be used on a 22lr from time to time as testing and plinking. Depending on how the first one goes I plan on several more. Tube: SDtac 5.5in carbon steel tube ~ 31 Rear Cap: STtac 1/2x28 carbon steel ~ 35 End Cap: SDtac end cap carbon steel ~ 35 Spacers: DM Titanium ~ 6-10 Freeze plug: Sealed power 34.3mm ~ 10-15 Maybe a SS plug, challenge coin, or Valve Spring Retainer for first baffle Looking around the net, it seems the cheapest way to get started with FP forming is the method SDtac uses. After the stamp, drill a 1/8in hole and using tapered torx bits, going smaller to larger using my 4ton HF press until the hole is of size for the projecticle and the cone is what I want. I plan on 1.5-2 in for the blast chamber. If I use a SS plug as the first baffle, I would drill a couple mouse holes in it. As I don't have a solid way to cut the pipe square, I will buy several lengths of the DM precut spacer and mix and match to see what fits good. Thoughts on the SS Plug, Coin, or VSR? I have seem them all used and ofcourse the SS is cheaper but dunno if better long term. Thoughts on my plan? The Torx bit method was borrowed from my original post, I revised this later with the flaring kit method to get deeper cones, but the difference in sounds from all the forming types are relatively minor. Your planned build will be a little on the heavy side. The plugs I used wore out on the second range trip (400-500rd range), and I don't use the can anymore and would only do the FPs for pistol or rimfire. I've had more 4140, M300, and Ti Valve retainers since then with little wear. Your plugs will form out to 1.353" or so, and the tube is 1.349-1.350", so you have to press them in. It is likely you can just not run the blast chamber spacer. That tube you are using is overly thick to start with. I've done this on 2 builds with thinner Diversified Machine tubes with good results so far. Esstac maybe 10 or so pages ago posted an update on his latest forming method, his resulting plugs where the best I have ever seen. I think he made parts for his forming method though. I would suggest considering other baffle options or buying preformed plugs. If you must here was the last forming I did. Lowes hopper gun nozzle set ($5 or so with the plaster in drywall section) and a Flaring Kit from an auto parts store (free to borrow or $10-20). You can get them to about 60deg at the tip, but the middle is 45deg or so and gets shallower. This is far as I could get them. 
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Posted: 1/22/2016 7:11:50 PM EDT
[#21]
What are the run down of Muzzle device options out there.
I am not sure if I prefer the Griffin, YHM QD or the SDTAC device. I plan for it to of course sit into the blast chamber of my suppressor. I also want to be able to have identical MDs on at least two rifles, one 556 and one 300 blackout so that I can move the can back and forth. I am leaning towards the YHM. Is what I am looking for possible with it? Sorry for all the "i"s. |
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Posted: 1/22/2016 8:07:25 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SilverBearX:
What are the run down of Muzzle device options out there. I am not sure if I prefer the Griffin, YHM QD or the SDTAC device. I plan for it to of course sit into the blast chamber of my suppressor. I also want to be able to have identical MDs on at least two rifles, one 556 and one 300 blackout so that I can move the can back and forth. I am leaning towards the YHM. Is what I am looking for possible with it? Sorry for all the "i"s. I enjoy the YHM LTA mounts. I'm having the points milled off though. |
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Posted: 1/22/2016 10:08:52 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
The Torx bit method was borrowed from my original post, I revised this later with the flaring kit method to get deeper cones, but the difference in sounds from all the forming types are relatively minor. Your planned build will be a little on the heavy side. The plugs I used wore out on the second range trip (400-500rd range), and I don't use the can anymore and would only do the FPs for pistol or rimfire. I've had more 4140, M300, and Ti Valve retainers since then with little wear. Your plugs will form out to 1.353" or so, and the tube is 1.349-1.350", so you have to press them in. It is likely you can just not run the blast chamber spacer. That tube you are using is overly thick to start with. I've done this on 2 builds with thinner Diversified Machine tubes with good results so far. Esstac maybe 10 or so pages ago posted an update on his latest forming method, his resulting plugs where the best I have ever seen. I think he made parts for his forming method though. I would suggest considering other baffle options or buying preformed plugs. If you must here was the last forming I did. Lowes hopper gun nozzle set ($5 or so with the plaster in drywall section) and a Flaring Kit from an auto parts store (free to borrow or $10-20). You can get them to about 60deg at the tip, but the middle is 45deg or so and gets shallower. This is far as I could get them. http://i61.tinypic.com/a105jm.jpg http://i60.tinypic.com/14j7qbl.jpg http://i57.tinypic.com/2ahe0ic.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By craig24680:
I have read this thread and it's full of information and thank everybody for helpful information, One thing I do wish is for the major points from others were integrated into the first post or a few down to help the new people like myself. Such as Freeze Plug sizes, OD and ID of different tubes, etc With that in mind here is my proposed design. I haven't filled out the form 1 yet nor ordered parts, just making sure I can do this with a very small amount of effort and tools while still getting a pretty good suppressor. My first will be for an AR in 556, 16 in barrel and this will also be used on a 22lr from time to time as testing and plinking. Depending on how the first one goes I plan on several more. Tube: SDtac 5.5in carbon steel tube ~ 31 Rear Cap: STtac 1/2x28 carbon steel ~ 35 End Cap: SDtac end cap carbon steel ~ 35 Spacers: DM Titanium ~ 6-10 Freeze plug: Sealed power 34.3mm ~ 10-15 Maybe a SS plug, challenge coin, or Valve Spring Retainer for first baffle Looking around the net, it seems the cheapest way to get started with FP forming is the method SDtac uses. After the stamp, drill a 1/8in hole and using tapered torx bits, going smaller to larger using my 4ton HF press until the hole is of size for the projecticle and the cone is what I want. I plan on 1.5-2 in for the blast chamber. If I use a SS plug as the first baffle, I would drill a couple mouse holes in it. As I don't have a solid way to cut the pipe square, I will buy several lengths of the DM precut spacer and mix and match to see what fits good. Thoughts on the SS Plug, Coin, or VSR? I have seem them all used and ofcourse the SS is cheaper but dunno if better long term. Thoughts on my plan? The Torx bit method was borrowed from my original post, I revised this later with the flaring kit method to get deeper cones, but the difference in sounds from all the forming types are relatively minor. Your planned build will be a little on the heavy side. The plugs I used wore out on the second range trip (400-500rd range), and I don't use the can anymore and would only do the FPs for pistol or rimfire. I've had more 4140, M300, and Ti Valve retainers since then with little wear. Your plugs will form out to 1.353" or so, and the tube is 1.349-1.350", so you have to press them in. It is likely you can just not run the blast chamber spacer. That tube you are using is overly thick to start with. I've done this on 2 builds with thinner Diversified Machine tubes with good results so far. Esstac maybe 10 or so pages ago posted an update on his latest forming method, his resulting plugs where the best I have ever seen. I think he made parts for his forming method though. I would suggest considering other baffle options or buying preformed plugs. If you must here was the last forming I did. Lowes hopper gun nozzle set ($5 or so with the plaster in drywall section) and a Flaring Kit from an auto parts store (free to borrow or $10-20). You can get them to about 60deg at the tip, but the middle is 45deg or so and gets shallower. This is far as I could get them. http://i61.tinypic.com/a105jm.jpg http://i60.tinypic.com/14j7qbl.jpg http://i57.tinypic.com/2ahe0ic.jpg In the pic with the flare tool, is that a freeze plug under the freeze plug? I tried it that way and my plug warped. Also, how does one keep all that stuff centered when pressing. Mine seems to want to roam a bit. I am just trying to figure the forming methods out. I first tried a homemade press, plumb bob and socket method. This gave decent results though one plug is about .025 off center... Is .025 enough to mess things up or should it be fine? Perhaps clip that baffle? |
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Posted: 1/23/2016 1:57:21 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
The Torx bit method was borrowed from my original post, I revised this later with the flaring kit method to get deeper cones, but the difference in sounds from all the forming types are relatively minor. Your planned build will be a little on the heavy side. The plugs I used wore out on the second range trip (400-500rd range), and I don't use the can anymore and would only do the FPs for pistol or rimfire. I've had more 4140, M300, and Ti Valve retainers since then with little wear. Your plugs will form out to 1.353" or so, and the tube is 1.349-1.350", so you have to press them in. It is likely you can just not run the blast chamber spacer. That tube you are using is overly thick to start with. I've done this on 2 builds with thinner Diversified Machine tubes with good results so far. Esstac maybe 10 or so pages ago posted an update on his latest forming method, his resulting plugs where the best I have ever seen. I think he made parts for his forming method though. I would suggest considering other baffle options or buying preformed plugs. If you must here was the last forming I did. Lowes hopper gun nozzle set ($5 or so with the plaster in drywall section) and a Flaring Kit from an auto parts store (free to borrow or $10-20). You can get them to about 60deg at the tip, but the middle is 45deg or so and gets shallower. This is far as I could get them. http://i61.tinypic.com/a105jm.jpg http://i60.tinypic.com/14j7qbl.jpg http://i57.tinypic.com/2ahe0ic.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By craig24680:
I have read this thread and it's full of information and thank everybody for helpful information, One thing I do wish is for the major points from others were integrated into the first post or a few down to help the new people like myself. Such as Freeze Plug sizes, OD and ID of different tubes, etc With that in mind here is my proposed design. I haven't filled out the form 1 yet nor ordered parts, just making sure I can do this with a very small amount of effort and tools while still getting a pretty good suppressor. My first will be for an AR in 556, 16 in barrel and this will also be used on a 22lr from time to time as testing and plinking. Depending on how the first one goes I plan on several more. Tube: SDtac 5.5in carbon steel tube ~ 31 Rear Cap: STtac 1/2x28 carbon steel ~ 35 End Cap: SDtac end cap carbon steel ~ 35 Spacers: DM Titanium ~ 6-10 Freeze plug: Sealed power 34.3mm ~ 10-15 Maybe a SS plug, challenge coin, or Valve Spring Retainer for first baffle Looking around the net, it seems the cheapest way to get started with FP forming is the method SDtac uses. After the stamp, drill a 1/8in hole and using tapered torx bits, going smaller to larger using my 4ton HF press until the hole is of size for the projecticle and the cone is what I want. I plan on 1.5-2 in for the blast chamber. If I use a SS plug as the first baffle, I would drill a couple mouse holes in it. As I don't have a solid way to cut the pipe square, I will buy several lengths of the DM precut spacer and mix and match to see what fits good. Thoughts on the SS Plug, Coin, or VSR? I have seem them all used and ofcourse the SS is cheaper but dunno if better long term. Thoughts on my plan? The Torx bit method was borrowed from my original post, I revised this later with the flaring kit method to get deeper cones, but the difference in sounds from all the forming types are relatively minor. Your planned build will be a little on the heavy side. The plugs I used wore out on the second range trip (400-500rd range), and I don't use the can anymore and would only do the FPs for pistol or rimfire. I've had more 4140, M300, and Ti Valve retainers since then with little wear. Your plugs will form out to 1.353" or so, and the tube is 1.349-1.350", so you have to press them in. It is likely you can just not run the blast chamber spacer. That tube you are using is overly thick to start with. I've done this on 2 builds with thinner Diversified Machine tubes with good results so far. Esstac maybe 10 or so pages ago posted an update on his latest forming method, his resulting plugs where the best I have ever seen. I think he made parts for his forming method though. I would suggest considering other baffle options or buying preformed plugs. If you must here was the last forming I did. Lowes hopper gun nozzle set ($5 or so with the plaster in drywall section) and a Flaring Kit from an auto parts store (free to borrow or $10-20). You can get them to about 60deg at the tip, but the middle is 45deg or so and gets shallower. This is far as I could get them. http://i61.tinypic.com/a105jm.jpg http://i60.tinypic.com/14j7qbl.jpg http://i57.tinypic.com/2ahe0ic.jpg c5hardtop, thanks for the information. I wonder what SS plugs would do for the entire baffle over time. I saw your pictures elsewhere in this gigantic thread and for some reason put it in the back of my mind never to see the light of day lol. I'm not opposed to using VSR for baffles however would you need more for the stack? Do they stack on themselves? I'm a very visual person, any drawings or diagrams would help me greatly. Thanks, Craig |
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Posted: 1/23/2016 4:10:57 PM EDT
[#25]
Has anyone ordered a fluted or otherwise cosmetically machine tube from DM for a centerfire can? I'm dreaming up a shorter 9mm can right now and was thinking about getting some fluting, dimpling or flats machined onto the tube.
What are the negatives to machining a tube in this style? Does Chris even offer it on anything other than the aluminum rimfire tubes? How would you order this add-on to a tube? The custom order form on his website? Thanks y'all. |
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Posted: 1/23/2016 6:48:54 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jclaypool: Has anyone ordered a fluted or otherwise cosmetically machine tube from DM for a centerfire can? I'm dreaming up a shorter 9mm can right now and was thinking about getting some fluting, dimpling or flats machined onto the tube. What are the negatives to machining a tube in this style? Does Chris even offer it on anything other than the aluminum rimfire tubes? How would you order this add-on to a tube? The custom order form on his website? Thanks y'all. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 1/23/2016 7:33:08 PM EDT
[#27]
Just a quick question, I've searched and looked through a lot of these threads, but I haven't seen this answered.
What size o-ring should I get for a C size .22 can? I'm going to use the SDTA aluminum tubes and end caps. The wife's getting antsy about building her can. Thanks! |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 1/24/2016 12:02:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: SamNavy]
[#28]
I bought this trap:
http://solvent-traps.com/products/5-inch-solvent-trap-tube-with-scalloped-end-caps-c-size-12-28-black I bought these cups: http://www.amazon.com/JMPF-Maglite-Preformed-Aluminum-Storage/dp/B0143KBI1C/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453607239&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=.995+solvent+cups This will be a dedicated unit for my Savage MKii FVSR .22lr that almost exclusively shoots CCI SV's... 5" should be plenty fpr damn near Hollywood quiet. My Form1 is still in jail, but I've been looking for drill presses on Craigslist and will probably buy the small cutoff saw from HF for future builds.The 5" tube takes 4 cups very well with about 1/2" free space... my question is: do I use a spacer and create a very small blast chamber, or do I trim down a couple cups to make room for a 5th? Which general practice is considered "best" in these cases and is there any real benefit to a 1/4" blast chamber vs. an extra cup? I've tried every way I know how to link pic and nothing is working: 
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Posted: 1/24/2016 12:26:42 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FLATFOOT762:
Interested in this as well. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FLATFOOT762:
Originally Posted By jclaypool:
Has anyone ordered a fluted or otherwise cosmetically machine tube from DM for a centerfire can? I'm dreaming up a shorter 9mm can right now and was thinking about getting some fluting, dimpling or flats machined onto the tube. What are the negatives to machining a tube in this style? Does Chris even offer it on anything other than the aluminum rimfire tubes? How would you order this add-on to a tube? The custom order form on his website? Thanks y'all. If he is physically capable of doing it, he will get it done. I hope you both do it and post up pics. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/24/2016 1:21:37 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SamNavy:
I bought this trap: http://solvent-traps.com/products/5-inch-solvent-trap-tube-with-scalloped-end-caps-c-size-12-28-black I bought these cups: http://www.amazon.com/JMPF-Maglite-Preformed-Aluminum-Storage/dp/B0143KBI1C/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453607239&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=.995+solvent+cups This will be a dedicated unit for my Savage MKii FVSR .22lr that almost exclusively shoots CCI SV's... 5" should be plenty fpr damn near Hollywood quiet. My Form1 is still in jail, but I've been looking for drill presses on Craigslist and will probably buy the small cutoff saw from HF for future builds.The 5" tube takes 4 cups very well with about 1/2" free space... my question is: do I use a spacer and create a very small blast chamber, or do I trim down a couple cups to make room for a 5th? Which general practice is considered "best" in these cases and is there any real benefit to a 1/4" blast chamber vs. an extra cup? I've tried every way I know how to link pic and nothing is working: http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk76/SamNavy/ST%20free%20space.jpg I have 3 cans with jmpf aluminum cups on sdtac tubes. In retrospect I would cut the cups down and get as many as I can in the can. You don't need o rings, but if you want good Orings, head over to theoringstore.com and grab some Viton Orings, they are cheap, HD and ship quick. I use them on my 556 cans with no ill effects thus far. |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 1/24/2016 9:41:36 AM EDT
[#31]
Thanks for the feedback... more cups is better than less cups. I've got plenty of time while the Form1 is in jail... gotta pick up one of those small chop saws (because who doesn't need one anyways) that I've always wanted, and then I'll be able to properly cut the cups down. I also did some searching for O-ring threads... best move for me is the Fastenal down the street... take my can in so I get the right size and make sure I get Vitons.
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Posted: 1/25/2016 1:02:57 AM EDT
[#32]
Have any of you guys build on a Diversified Machine 4" tube? I'm trying to decide on 4" or 5" for a Ti 5.56 direct thread.
I'm more concerned with weight/length than decibels, within reason, which is why I'm looking at the 4", but I also don't want to build a $4-500 muzzle brake. |
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Posted: 1/25/2016 9:41:32 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Nameless_Hobo:
Have any of you guys build on a Diversified Machine 4" tube? I'm trying to decide on 4" or 5" for a Ti 5.56 direct thread. I'm more concerned with weight/length than decibels, within reason, which is why I'm looking at the 4", but I also don't want to build a $4-500 muzzle brake. Someone build a 5" on the larger 1.625" and posted videos... sounded pretty good. My 7.6" (also on a 1.625" tube) on a reflex brake extends 4" past the muzzle and is very quiet, definitely could be shorter. I'd guess 5" 1.625, 5.75" 1.5, or 7" (reflex) as min for hearing safe. |
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Posted: 1/25/2016 9:48:47 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jclaypool:
Has anyone ordered a fluted or otherwise cosmetically machine tube from DM for a centerfire can? I'm dreaming up a shorter 9mm can right now and was thinking about getting some fluting, dimpling or flats machined onto the tube. What are the negatives to machining a tube in this style? Does Chris even offer it on anything other than the aluminum rimfire tubes? How would you order this add-on to a tube? The custom order form on his website? Thanks y'all. For the most part the Ti and SS options were already sized at appropriate wall thickness so it would it not be wise to flute them. On the tube he pictured it was a 1.625" AL tube for rimfire or pistol, both of which have much less pressure and the tube is oversized for their typical application as well, in addition the tube wall thickness is quite a bit more than the Ti version. So it makes since here you can flute the tube or have the whole thing turned down. There are a number of 1.75" Handguards on the market so this makes since for standard or under the handguard AR's chambered in pistol or rimfire. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 1/25/2016 9:24:11 PM EDT
[#35]
Any suggestions on where to have my titanium tube engraved? Went to the local trophy shop and she put the tube in her pantograph engraver but it barely made a mark.
Slightly legible but not deep enough. Curious as to where some of you guys are having this done. If not where, what type of engraver should iI be looking for a business to have? Thanks guys. |
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USA
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Posted: 1/25/2016 9:38:56 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BuddhaMan:
Any suggestions on where to have my titanium tube engraved? Went to the local trophy shop and she put the tube in her pantograph engraver but it barely made a mark. Slightly legible but not deep enough. Curious as to where some of you guys are having this done. If not where, what type of engraver should iI be looking for a business to have? Thanks guys. I used Gray Laser in Texas. Great work with fast turn around. |
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Posted: 1/25/2016 10:11:44 PM EDT
[#37]
Tarheel State Firearms, super fast turnaround, excellent customer service, and the best prices I've seen.
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Posted: 1/25/2016 10:27:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BigWaylon]
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JoshAston:
Tarheel State Firearms, super fast turnaround, excellent customer service, and the best prices I've seen. x2 BuddhaMan...are you sure it's not deep enough? .003" is the required minimum, which is about a sheet of paper. If your fingernail can catch it, it's probably close. |
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Posted: 1/25/2016 11:41:24 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dskeet:
Mine was $170 about a month ago. Specs are... 6.5 inch stainless steel tube (1.5in OD, 1.375in ID) YHM adapter, stainless Stainless end cap, with notches but so it can be removed with an AR barrel wrench 8" instead of 6.5" should only raise the price a little bit, nothing crazy. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dskeet:
Originally Posted By TheMountaineer:
3. I didn't ever see Ryan's thread that apparently got deleted, but I'm guessing it was one big ad for DM. I don't want to repeat that, but approximately what would it run me to get a a fairly thin steel tube, steel YHM adapter, and end cap that makes about an 8" can from DM? Also, does Chris offer some kind of well-fitting spacer material? Mine was $170 about a month ago. Specs are... 6.5 inch stainless steel tube (1.5in OD, 1.375in ID) YHM adapter, stainless Stainless end cap, with notches but so it can be removed with an AR barrel wrench 8" instead of 6.5" should only raise the price a little bit, nothing crazy. Anyone know the weight of the DM stainless tube vs the SDTA titanium one? Also, dskeet, what did you use as baffles on yours? I was going to use the sep 381-3179 but if I go stainless tube, that is .025 off on the inside diameter (1.350vs1.375) |
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Posted: 1/26/2016 12:40:51 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop: Someone build a 5" on the larger 1.625" and posted videos... sounded pretty good. My 7.6" (also on a 1.625" tube) on a reflex brake extends 4" past the muzzle and is very quiet, definitely could be shorter. I'd guess 5" 1.625, 5.75" 1.5, or 7" (reflex) as min for hearing safe. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop: Originally Posted By Nameless_Hobo: Have any of you guys build on a Diversified Machine 4" tube? I'm trying to decide on 4" or 5" for a Ti 5.56 direct thread. I'm more concerned with weight/length than decibels, within reason, which is why I'm looking at the 4", but I also don't want to build a $4-500 muzzle brake. Someone build a 5" on the larger 1.625" and posted videos... sounded pretty good. My 7.6" (also on a 1.625" tube) on a reflex brake extends 4" past the muzzle and is very quiet, definitely could be shorter. I'd guess 5" 1.625, 5.75" 1.5, or 7" (reflex) as min for hearing safe. |
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Posted: 1/26/2016 1:08:29 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Someone build a 5" on the larger 1.625" and posted videos... sounded pretty good. My 7.6" (also on a 1.625" tube) on a reflex brake extends 4" past the muzzle and is very quiet, definitely could be shorter. I'd guess 5" 1.625, 5.75" 1.5, or 7" (reflex) as min for hearing safe. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By Nameless_Hobo:
Have any of you guys build on a Diversified Machine 4" tube? I'm trying to decide on 4" or 5" for a Ti 5.56 direct thread. I'm more concerned with weight/length than decibels, within reason, which is why I'm looking at the 4", but I also don't want to build a $4-500 muzzle brake. Someone build a 5" on the larger 1.625" and posted videos... sounded pretty good. My 7.6" (also on a 1.625" tube) on a reflex brake extends 4" past the muzzle and is very quiet, definitely could be shorter. I'd guess 5" 1.625, 5.75" 1.5, or 7" (reflex) as min for hearing safe. Originally Posted By HK94dude:
I did a 5" x 1.625" build and was really pleased with the results. Honestly, for some reason, I hadn't thought about a larger tube diameter. I actually like the chode can idea quite a bit, being fat wouldn't really effect handling like long would. |
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Posted: 1/26/2016 11:13:20 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BuddhaMan:
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll look into them. 
I'm not positive but it looks really shallow. I can catch my nail on it slightly but can't imagine that it would be legible once I coated the tube with cerakote or whatever. I'll snap a picture and post it in a few. ETA; Piece of scrap tubing with a generic font and lettering to see if the machine could do the work. After looking at it closely I am thinking it may be enough if the letters were blocked in rather than outlined. IDK, I am going to try another shop tommorrow. <a href="http://s1280.photobucket.com/user/teck09/media/Mobile%20Uploads/tmp_5532-20160125_205830511265631_zpsaxuo3npg.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a497/teck09/Mobile%20Uploads/tmp_5532-20160125_205830511265631_zpsaxuo3npg.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1280.photobucket.com/user/teck09/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160125_205921_zpsg7qfabbd.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a497/teck09/Mobile%20Uploads/20160125_205921_zpsg7qfabbd.jpg</a> Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BuddhaMan:
Originally Posted By PineappleDevil:
I used Gray Laser in Texas. Great work with fast turn around. Originally Posted By JoshAston:
Tarheel State Firearms, super fast turnaround, excellent customer service, and the best prices I've seen. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll look into them.
Originally Posted By BigWaylon:
BuddhaMan...are you sure it's not deep enough? .003" is the required minimum, which is about a sheet of paper. If your fingernail can catch it, it's probably close. I'm not positive but it looks really shallow. I can catch my nail on it slightly but can't imagine that it would be legible once I coated the tube with cerakote or whatever. I'll snap a picture and post it in a few. ETA; Piece of scrap tubing with a generic font and lettering to see if the machine could do the work. After looking at it closely I am thinking it may be enough if the letters were blocked in rather than outlined. IDK, I am going to try another shop tommorrow. <a href="http://s1280.photobucket.com/user/teck09/media/Mobile%20Uploads/tmp_5532-20160125_205830511265631_zpsaxuo3npg.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a497/teck09/Mobile%20Uploads/tmp_5532-20160125_205830511265631_zpsaxuo3npg.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1280.photobucket.com/user/teck09/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160125_205921_zpsg7qfabbd.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a497/teck09/Mobile%20Uploads/20160125_205921_zpsg7qfabbd.jpg</a> I bet that pretty much disappears when you paint it. I engraved my steel tube with a Dremel and thought it looked pretty good until I painted it; everything was really hard to see/read after that. Went over it again and made it deeper. |
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Posted: 1/26/2016 12:00:17 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryHonestly, for some reason, I hadn't thought about a larger tube diameter. I actually like the chode can idea quite a bit, being fat wouldn't really effect handling like long would. It is 27% or so more volume but the thickness difference from 1.625" to 1.5" is barely noticeable. Still fits under most standard type handguards, the slim ones non fit in, and there a rare few (Samson) that are made specifically to fit a 1.5" can, but post others have a ID closer to 1.75". |
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Posted: 1/26/2016 12:02:56 PM EDT
[#45]
Most of my engravings are like above. While Cerakote C appears to fill it mostly on the application, I have found if you bake it (to speed curing as this is the not the type that requires a bake cure) the engraving becomes visiable. On the earlier ones I didn't bake cure, when they are shot really hot.
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Posted: 1/27/2016 4:51:14 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
It is 27% or so more volume but the thickness difference from 1.625" to 1.5" is barely noticeable. Still fits under most standard type handguards, the slim ones non fit in, and there a rare few (Samson) that are made specifically to fit a 1.5" can, but post others have a ID closer to 1.75". Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Honestly, for some reason, I hadn't thought about a larger tube diameter. I actually like the chode can idea quite a bit, being fat wouldn't really effect handling like long would. It is 27% or so more volume but the thickness difference from 1.625" to 1.5" is barely noticeable. Still fits under most standard type handguards, the slim ones non fit in, and there a rare few (Samson) that are made specifically to fit a 1.5" can, but post others have a ID closer to 1.75". So a final (I believe) question regarding the 1.625" tube. What are you using as baffles? I can't seem to find much on Google, other than a guy that appears to have machined his baffles, which wouldn't presently work for me, as I no longer have access to a machine shop. Should be a good solution if I can form some freeze plug baffles, I'm planning on putting it at the end of a rifle with a FSB, so I'm not concerned about fitting under a handguard. |
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Posted: 1/27/2016 9:54:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: c5hardtop]
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Nameless_Hobo:
So a final (I believe) question regarding the 1.625" tube. What are you using as baffles? I can't seem to find much on Google, other than a guy that appears to have machined his baffles, which wouldn't presently work for me, as I no longer have access to a machine shop. Should be a good solution if I can form some freeze plug baffles, I'm planning on putting it at the end of a rifle with a FSB, so I'm not concerned about fitting under a handguard. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Nameless_Hobo:
Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
Honestly, for some reason, I hadn't thought about a larger tube diameter. I actually like the chode can idea quite a bit, being fat wouldn't really effect handling like long would. It is 27% or so more volume but the thickness difference from 1.625" to 1.5" is barely noticeable. Still fits under most standard type handguards, the slim ones non fit in, and there a rare few (Samson) that are made specifically to fit a 1.5" can, but post others have a ID closer to 1.75". So a final (I believe) question regarding the 1.625" tube. What are you using as baffles? I can't seem to find much on Google, other than a guy that appears to have machined his baffles, which wouldn't presently work for me, as I no longer have access to a machine shop. Should be a good solution if I can form some freeze plug baffles, I'm planning on putting it at the end of a rifle with a FSB, so I'm not concerned about fitting under a handguard. I am using Cones. Diversified Machine sells an ideal type VSR, as well as 80% 60deg Cones and 80% Radial Taper Cones for $10-$22 for their tubes. |
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Posted: 1/27/2016 10:02:31 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
For the most part the Ti and SS options were already sized at appropriate wall thickness so it would it not be wise to flute them. On the tube he pictured it was a 1.625" AL tube for rimfire or pistol, both of which have much less pressure and the tube is oversized for their typical application as well, in addition the tube wall thickness is quite a bit more than the Ti version. So it makes since here you can flute the tube or have the whole thing turned down. There are a number of 1.75" Handguards on the market so this makes since for standard or under the handguard AR's chambered in pistol or rimfire. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By jclaypool:
Has anyone ordered a fluted or otherwise cosmetically machine tube from DM for a centerfire can? I'm dreaming up a shorter 9mm can right now and was thinking about getting some fluting, dimpling or flats machined onto the tube. What are the negatives to machining a tube in this style? Does Chris even offer it on anything other than the aluminum rimfire tubes? How would you order this add-on to a tube? The custom order form on his website? Thanks y'all. For the most part the Ti and SS options were already sized at appropriate wall thickness so it would it not be wise to flute them. On the tube he pictured it was a 1.625" AL tube for rimfire or pistol, both of which have much less pressure and the tube is oversized for their typical application as well, in addition the tube wall thickness is quite a bit more than the Ti version. So it makes since here you can flute the tube or have the whole thing turned down. There are a number of 1.75" Handguards on the market so this makes since for standard or under the handguard AR's chambered in pistol or rimfire. Thanks man, big help. |
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Posted: 1/27/2016 10:44:51 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
I am using Cones. Diversified Machine sells and ideal VSR, as well as 80% 60deg Cones and Radial Taper Cones for $10-$22 for their tubes. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By Nameless_Hobo:
Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
Honestly, for some reason, I hadn't thought about a larger tube diameter. I actually like the chode can idea quite a bit, being fat wouldn't really effect handling like long would. It is 27% or so more volume but the thickness difference from 1.625" to 1.5" is barely noticeable. Still fits under most standard type handguards, the slim ones non fit in, and there a rare few (Samson) that are made specifically to fit a 1.5" can, but post others have a ID closer to 1.75". So a final (I believe) question regarding the 1.625" tube. What are you using as baffles? I can't seem to find much on Google, other than a guy that appears to have machined his baffles, which wouldn't presently work for me, as I no longer have access to a machine shop. Should be a good solution if I can form some freeze plug baffles, I'm planning on putting it at the end of a rifle with a FSB, so I'm not concerned about fitting under a handguard. I am using Cones. Diversified Machine sells and ideal VSR, as well as 80% 60deg Cones and Radial Taper Cones for $10-$22 for their tubes. I can't seem to find these items, can you link them please? |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/27/2016 12:18:38 PM EDT
[#50]
does anybody know the thread pitch and the diameter of the widest point of the taper on the SDTA brake/flash hider? or the griffin armament?
wondering how thick a barrel would need to be to have the taper machined into it.. |
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