User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 11/26/2015 7:52:50 PM EDT
[#1]
Boyds stocks. Toss that plastic piece of shit in the trash!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/26/2015 8:01:42 PM EDT
[#2]
You could use barrel bedding material.. My stock works fine for hunting
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/26/2015 9:45:27 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You could use barrel bedding material.. My stock works fine for hunting That was what I initially had in mind but for the amount needed to fill the stock I dont think it would justify the price. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/26/2015 10:22:13 PM EDT
[#4]
I think there is a youtube vid of a guys using jb weld to do it. My Boyds stock is stiff, but the v block insert looks trashy.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/27/2015 4:57:58 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That was what I initially had in mind but for the amount needed to fill the stock I dont think it would justify the price. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You could use barrel bedding material.. My stock works fine for hunting That was what I initially had in mind but for the amount needed to fill the stock I dont think it would justify the price. The Boyds stocks are generally much nicer to handle, so it's not just about rigidity. I got a Boyds for my RAR and love it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/27/2015 8:13:17 AM EDT
[#6]
I did one for my Cheap Mossberg .308.
Kicked too much for little ones. Filled with lead and expoly. About 3 pounds heavier but absorbs the recoil well. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/27/2015 9:14:27 AM EDT
[#7]
I just bought the Ruger American Predator in .308. I used a file to remove enough of the plastic on the sides and underneath the front of the barrel. I have some Acraglas gel that I thought about using to make it a little stiffer. I just used the Acraglas to glue back together a broken Browning A-Bolt stock. I think it would work well, if I decided to use it. If you remove enough material it is very unlikely that it would touch the barrel with normal use. A half round file works great!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/27/2015 1:29:29 PM EDT
[#8]
I'm waiting the silly 10 day wait period Kalifornia has to get my used Savage Axis. I noticed the stock has some
flex (which I predicted), but you have to really push to get the bbl. to contact the forearm. I MAY look at some kind of material to stiffen it and have heard some use graphite arrow shafts bedded with epoxy, etc.. I wonder if aluminum would work also. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/29/2015 4:48:02 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Boyds stocks. Toss that plastic piece of shit in the trash! Does Boyds make one for the American with the steel bedding blocks the action is designed to mate too? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2015 10:05:15 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Boyds stocks. Toss that plastic piece of shit in the trash! Boyds are heavy. Nice enough, but like carrying around a log. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/30/2015 10:50:37 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just bought the Ruger American Predator in .308. I used a file to remove enough of the plastic on the sides and underneath the front of the barrel. I have some Acraglas gel that I thought about using to make it a little stiffer. I just used the Acraglas to glue back together a broken Browning A-Bolt stock. I think it would work well, if I decided to use it. If you remove enough material it is very unlikely that it would touch the barrel with normal use. A half round file works great! Did you do this? Got pics? I've been thinking of at least bedding the action a little better with acaglass. I saw a video on youtube where the guy used acraglass and put an aluminum rod in the front part of the stock. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/4/2015 6:31:08 PM EDT
[#12]
I have not. I have an Omega hanging off the end of the barrel and I don't think I want the extra forward weight. I am very sure it would work.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/7/2015 9:29:35 PM EDT
[#13]
With my American Predator I just took a piece of 5/8 inch dowel, wrapped it with a piece of the most aggressive emery cloth I could find in my tool box and went to work on the barrel channel. I enlarged it so the stock didn't make contact with the barrel at any point and have left it at that so far. I thought about reinforcing it but don't really want it heavier than it is now.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/7/2015 9:40:01 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
With my American Predator I just took a piece of 5/8 inch dowel, wrapped it with a piece of the most aggressive emery cloth I could find in my tool box and went to work on the barrel channel. I enlarged it so the stock didn't make contact with the barrel at any point and have left it at that so far. I thought about reinforcing it but don't really want it heavier than it is now. Same here. Our intention is to have light rifles for hunting. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/14/2015 1:07:57 PM EDT
[#15]
I filled the for end with acra glass and a couple of steel rods.
Now the bi pod does not torque the for end and ruin accuracy. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/9/2016 10:22:56 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That was what I initially had in mind but for the amount needed to fill the stock I don't think it would justify the price. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You could use barrel bedding material.. My stock works fine for hunting That was what I initially had in mind but for the amount needed to fill the stock I don't think it would justify the price. I'm using about 14 ounces of Bondo Resin, it's about $14, for the stock. I'm also using 1/2" CPVC as stiffening tubes in the stock. I'll use 10-24 threaded rod and 3500 psi epoxy in the forearm to stiffen it up. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/29/2016 4:30:16 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Boyds stocks. Toss that plastic piece of shit in the trash! This. Mine is so much better now with the Boyd stock. It still has the steel bedding. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/3/2016 1:49:32 PM EDT
[#18]
I've used thin steel rod from Lowes and dremmeled a channel in the forearm of a Savage plastic stock then expoxied the rod in. Stiffened it nicely and didn't add much weight. Not sure if you can do it with the American stock.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/3/2016 10:25:19 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've used thin steel rod from Lowes and dremmeled a channel in the forearm of a Savage plastic stock then expoxied the rod in. Stiffened it nicely and didn't add much weight. Not sure if you can do it with the American stock. You can. I did it on my 7mm-08 except I used two 10-24 threaded rod and Bondo resin/ I also added the resin to the butt stock, now the stock isn't so "tinny" or flimsy feeling. ETA: and pics are in this related thread: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_52/462615_Ruger-American-270-stock-fill------------.html |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/10/2016 6:41:12 PM EDT
[#20]
Pardon me, but I don't understand why such reinforcement of a (supposedly) free-floating-type of stock is necessary. Perhaps I am missing something.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/11/2016 2:25:08 AM EDT
[#21]
Don't recall anyone saying it was necessary, just something to do if you so choose. For me, the front end reinforcement did make it stiffer and that means less chance of the stock, however light, touching the barrel.
And shots #31-33 took down three doe this afternoon just after sundown. All three were head shots, DRT. We got done processing them down to deboned meat about an hour ago. Pics as soon as I can get them uploaded. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/11/2016 9:47:03 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm waiting the silly 10 day wait period Kalifornia has to get my used Savage Axis. I noticed the stock has some flex (which I predicted), but you have to really push to get the bbl. to contact the forearm. I MAY look at some kind of material to stiffen it and have heard some use graphite arrow shafts bedded with epoxy, etc.. I wonder if aluminum would work also. Graphite arrow shafts would be good for this purpose, as well as appropriate lengths of aluminum "C" or "H" channel stock.. Aluminum tubes and hollow rectangular sections have also been used. As a general rule of thumb, a hollow tube will have very nearly the same rigidity as a solid rod of the same length and weight, given identical material. The structural shapes offer increased rigidity compared to rods or tubes, because the various parts of the shape reinforce each other. Given the constraints of working within the fore-end, and not wanting anything to touch the barrel, most people use a shallow aluminum "C" channel with the bottom down, and sides up. It's either glued in place or screwed to the stock. Posters above have discussed methods of sanding and filing the stock to relieve it internally, and those methods work. If the user wants to both relieve (free-float) the fore end, and reinforce it for purposes of being able to mount a bipod or take a tight shooting sling, then I would suggest appropriate rigid aluminum structural shapes either glued into the bottom/sides of the fore end, or perhaps secured by flat head machine screws. People have been doing this for a long time, but interest has grown of late with the increasing use of polymer stocks. Obviously, some are much more rigid than others because some mfrs have taken the time and effort to design them so from the start. A well-designed polymer stock fore-end will be unlikely to need any reinforcement. For example, see this link to the inside of a Ruger GSR polymer stock: GSR Polymer Stock. Click through the pix until the inside of the fore end appears, and observe the network of webs that reinforce each other, the sling mounting locations, and the stock overall. Light but strong. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/11/2016 10:10:17 AM EDT
[#23]
I have a Savage Axis .223. I found a video on YouTube about using Rocktite to stiffen the stock. It worked good on my rifle, adding weight and making it recoil less.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/11/2016 4:08:10 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Pardon me, but I don't understand why such reinforcement of a (supposedly) free-floating-type of stock is necessary. Perhaps I am missing something. Because the forearm can flex enough to touch the barrel. Its only floated with about 1mm or less clearance. But it depends, I think, on which Ruger stock you get. I got a early one, and it flexes enough to touch, but a later American Rifle I bought has a much, much stiffer forearm. I think the flexie one does not have enough crosspanels in it, or its simply too thin. My flexie one is also not too straight, you can see where the plastic shrinkage/stress relief has caused a slight deformation. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/13/2017 3:26:30 PM EDT
[#25]
Buddy of mine turned me on to a really cheap and quick trick to make sure the stock on my American ranch wouldn't flex and touch my barrel.
Just took two small pieces of an old credit card and shimmed the metal bedding block in the stock at the point it screws into the receiver. Lifted my barrel up about 1/8th of an inch and ensured it stayed free floated. No need for filing or cutting out the stock channel and took about a 1/4 of an inch out of my 5 shot groups. One of those "Duh, why didn't I think to do that" moments. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/14/2017 1:46:35 PM EDT
[#26]
I epoxied 2 aluminum cleaning rods on either side of the barrel channel. It took almost all of the flex out of the stock and added no noticeable weight.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/14/2017 7:38:58 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I epoxied 2 aluminum cleaning rods on either side of the barrel channel. It took almost all of the flex out of the stock and added no noticeable weight. That said, I have never personally done this so YMMV. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/16/2017 5:25:24 AM EDT
[#28]
I thought the RAR would be fine, but with a bipod it would touch the barrel to stock with just an oz or two of twist on the handgrip of the stock. Used a socket anf sandpaper to open up the channel, which made a noticeable difference. Without a bipod or at 100yds from field positions likely unnoticeable. Maybe 1"+/- to the left at 100 when barrel touched.
Really like the light weight, dont want to lose that for more rigidity in the stock. I keep wondering about laying up a bit of fiberglass on the outside. Much stiffer and then paint to taste, but I like the shape of the stock, ummm..., stock. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/16/2017 9:03:20 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I thought the RAR would be fine, but with a bipod it would touch the barrel to stock with just an oz or two of twist on the handgrip of the stock. Used a socket anf sandpaper to open up the channel, which made a noticeable difference. Without a bipod or at 100yds from field positions likely unnoticeable. Maybe 1"+/- to the left at 100 when barrel touched. Really like the light weight, dont want to lose that for more rigidity in the stock. I keep wondering about laying up a bit of fiberglass on the outside. Much stiffer and then paint to taste, but I like the shape of the stock, ummm..., stock. So what I did was still use the Bondo resin but in this case only filled the first 1-2" of the stock in the hand area, thn filled only the upper and bottom parts of the stock. The Bondo resin will flow fairly easily, so it's easy to pour a little, then hold the rifle so only the bottom or top of the stock has resin. Really cut down on the flimsy feel of the stock, plus stiffened it as well with very little weight increase. Good luck. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/16/2017 11:42:22 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Because the forearm can flex enough to touch the barrel. Its only floated with about 1mm or less clearance. But it depends, I think, on which Ruger stock you get. I got a early one, and it flexes enough to touch, but a later American Rifle I bought has a much, much stiffer forearm. I think the flexie one does not have enough crosspanels in it, or its simply too thin. My flexie one is also not too straight, you can see where the plastic shrinkage/stress relief has caused a slight deformation. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Pardon me, but I don't understand why such reinforcement of a (supposedly) free-floating-type of stock is necessary. Perhaps I am missing something. Its only floated with about 1mm or less clearance. But it depends, I think, on which Ruger stock you get. I got a early one, and it flexes enough to touch, but a later American Rifle I bought has a much, much stiffer forearm. I think the flexie one does not have enough crosspanels in it, or its simply too thin. My flexie one is also not too straight, you can see where the plastic shrinkage/stress relief has caused a slight deformation. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/20/2017 2:44:18 AM EDT
[#31]
Is the Bondo resin for fiberglass? Or body filler?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/20/2017 2:58:42 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is the Bondo resin for fiberglass? Or body filler? Now if you're really worried about the slightest bit of flex, I'd look closer at something like T-88 since it's unaffected by solvents after curing. That said, it's largely used in woodworking, so I'm unsure of how well it'll bond on plastics. I imagine if you are doing rod reinforcement or doing enough surface prep it would be fine though. Just have to give it plenty of places to get a grip inside the stock. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/20/2017 8:36:18 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is the Bondo resin for fiberglass? Or body filler? Here are pics of my Ruger American fore end filled with the resin and the two 10-24 threaded rods. 
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
