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Posted: 1/29/2016 12:03:23 AM EDT
[#1]
It's just important that it works because you're paying an extra $200 for it.
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Posted: 1/29/2016 12:03:54 AM EDT
[#2]
Quoted: I hear people say on a regular basis that buying a "quality" lower is important because of the stress an sbr system goes through, I'll have it forever... etc. How important is it really? Especially considering I will be putting a quality lower parts kit in it. Is there really a difference between a PSA or Anderson lower and, say, a Daniel Defense or BCM lower? I know the quality control aspect plays a big role... but If I receive the lower and test it with my Daniel Defense M4v1 upper and it runs fine wouldn't you think that it should be just fine when I order an MK18? Thanks in advance for the input! Because you're going to be "stuck" with that lower because SBR'd lowers are effectively worthless 2nd hand. No one really wants to buy them, and you won't want to sell it as an NFA item because you might be paying for 2 stamps (same reason why used suppressors are rare). You also want to be sure everything is in spec and functions fine before taking the plunge and plopping down the $200 tax stamp on it. |
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Posted: 1/29/2016 12:24:09 AM EDT
[#3]
OP. My point of view is get a lower and make sure it is in spec and everything fits. I don't care if it's a Anderson lower or a $400 whiz bang lower. Actually if prefer the cheapest as like posted above you have to spend an extra $200 on the stamp and then an extra $50 or so for engraving.
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Posted: 1/29/2016 12:48:09 AM EDT
[#4]
Buy once, cry once. My personal opinion when purchasing gear and personal kit. Especially if my life or the lives of loved ones/innocents may depend on it. I don't think it matters as much in terms of material stress which is what I inferred by your original post.
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Posted: 1/29/2016 12:50:07 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's just important that it works because you're paying an extra $200 for it. And (for some) a pain in the ass trip to the sheriff, or municipality for an interview, and sign off. And sometimes, an extremely long wait, even if you do the form right the first time (I have one that went 14 months) And all the NFA goodness that goes with it; state line restrictions, engraving, etc 
Anyhow, for me, I was wanting lowers that were of a desirable rollmark, since a bit of effort went in to them. Once I got the trust figured out, it was much easier. Sure, and Anderson horse, or Stag head would have likely been just fine. For a few bucks more, a Mega was worth it, to me. |
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Posted: 1/29/2016 1:13:14 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's just important that it works because you're paying an extra $200 for it. Pretty much that. As long as all the pin holes and such are where they're supposed to be, it doesn't matter what brand you use. However, the better known or more boutique brands will probably be more likely to put out a good lower. Poop happens - look at all the Anderson lowers with the grip screw hole that's too short. It's not a big deal because you can use a shorter screw, but c'mon.... |
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Posted: 1/29/2016 2:00:42 AM EDT
[#7]
I SBR"d a DPMS lower
Fine lower and serves me well. Roll marks only go so far. |
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Posted: 1/29/2016 5:04:21 AM EDT
[#8]
rock river are great lowers I find stag & dpms to be sloppy.
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Posted: 1/29/2016 5:43:00 AM EDT
[#9]
I did a $40 psa blem lower.
$220 SSA trigger $200 stamp $20 engraving.. Expensive $40 
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Posted: 1/29/2016 8:03:51 AM EDT
[#10]
To each his own.
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Posted: 1/29/2016 8:09:46 AM EDT
[#11]
My only suggestion is that you assemble your lower to ensure no function problems before you do the form 1 and tie your $200 to it.
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Posted: 1/29/2016 8:31:35 AM EDT
[#12]
My suggestion would be to SBR the highest quality lower you can afford since you will essentially be married to it, but whatever you do, make sure it is a working lower without issues.
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Posted: 1/29/2016 9:11:02 AM EDT
[#13]
Meh.
If it's a non billet lower get one that has a roll mark you like. I've done PSA's and a Bushmaster |
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Posted: 1/29/2016 9:55:19 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
I hear people say on a regular basis that buying a "quality" lower is important because of the stress an sbr system goes through, I'll have it forever... etc. How important is it really? Especially considering I will be putting a quality lower parts kit in it. Is there really a difference between a PSA or Anderson lower and, say, a Daniel Defense or BCM lower? I know the quality control aspect plays a big role... but If I receive the lower and test it with my Daniel Defense M4v1 upper and it runs fine wouldn't you think that it should be just fine when I order an MK18? Thanks in advance for the input! Ehh i think the durability is not really that big of a deal. These days all name brand lowers are pretty darn close to the same specs and quality, this isnt 1970 when there was like Colt and like 2 other companies making knock off AR15s I would recommend a better quality just because you are adding $200 to it and will be stuck with it for life. Also, NFA is an addition for most people. It starts innocent enough as a SBR, then its a suppressor next thing you know you are buying a machine gun and if you ever go the LL or DIAS route its nice to have a lower that they actually fit into. Colt and most commercial brands design their lowers so they cant be converted, at least not without a gun smith machine material from the lower. Also there are some new cool 2 shot/third position triggers coming out that need open interior space. |
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Posted: 1/29/2016 10:02:34 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Meh. If it's a non billet lower get one that has a roll mark you like. I've done PSA's and a Bushmaster Pretty much this^^....I've got a Wilson Combat set that I purchased specifically to SBR and then for my next one I used a PSA stealth (no rollmark) lower that was previously owned and a little marred.... |
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Posted: 1/29/2016 10:14:24 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: OP. My point of view is get a lower and make sure it is in spec and everything fits. I don't care if it's a Anderson lower or a $400 whiz bang lower. Actually if prefer the cheapest as like posted above you have to spend an extra $200 on the stamp and then an extra $50 or so for engraving. If a lower is in spec and made of either 6061 alloy (plenty of strength for a low-stress part like a lower) or 7075 alloy (stronger, thus more typically used for uppers, but fine for a lower as well,) that's all you need to worry about. |
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Posted: 1/29/2016 10:17:19 AM EDT
[#17]
If it's in-spec it's good enough to SBR in my opinion. What you paid for it has no bearing on this.
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Posted: 1/29/2016 10:37:04 AM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
I hear people say on a regular basis that buying a "quality" lower is important because of the stress an sbr system goes through, I'll have it forever... etc. How important is it really? Especially considering I will be putting a quality lower parts kit in it. Is there really a difference between a PSA or Anderson lower and, say, a Daniel Defense or BCM lower? I know the quality control aspect plays a big role... but If I receive the lower and test it with my Daniel Defense M4v1 upper and it runs fine wouldn't you think that it should be just fine when I order an MK18? Thanks in advance for the input! I prefer well made billet lowers for SBRs. If you are going to pay the extortion rights tax ( NFA tax) then it should look and function good too. Basically the difference in forged lowers is a subject for debate but essential they are all the same. Some have a better name than others while the first will function just as well under stress. As others say in spec is the only thing that matters |
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Posted: 1/29/2016 11:40:32 AM EDT
[#19]
I have:
LMT Mega Nodak and will be doing a PSA, Noveske Chainsaw and Aero Gen 2 before 41P |
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Posted: 1/29/2016 12:12:24 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If it's in-spec it's good enough to SBR in my opinion. What you paid for it has no bearing on this. This seems to be the general consensus. Based on the advice you all have given me I will be sure to check specs and function with the lower parts kit that I intend to use and my current DD upper. Looks like I need to pick my favorite roll mark.  |
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Posted: 1/29/2016 3:00:14 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did a $40 psa blem lower. $220 SSA trigger $200 stamp $20 engraving.. Expensive $40 Same boat. |
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Posted: 1/29/2016 3:55:17 PM EDT
[#22]
I actually view the SBR lower as expendable. You're going to burn $200 on it, then deface it with your name or trust name. It's essentially worthless after you get your stamp back. My first was a Noveske Gen II, my next two were PSA blems. My thought process is that as long as it's in spec where it counts (FCG functions, mags drop free, upper isn't too tight or loose), I'm happy. If I ever get into a money bind or my family needs to sell my collection in the event of my death or serious illness, I'm going to suggest they sell the SBR parts rather than fussing with the NFA stuff to sell my Form 1 guns as complete.
* It's easier to stomach defacing a lower that's $50 than one that's $250. I've done both. * You're married to the lower, not the gun. If you want to liquidate everything but the lower, having a cheaper lower makes sense. * My expensive lower actually has the worst fit of all of my builds. My $0.02. 
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Posted: 1/29/2016 6:30:13 PM EDT
[#23]
I have built several rifles in Anderson lowers with no issues. Before I sbr the 2-3 I want before 41f I'll definitely put LPKs in them to be sure everything is good to go.
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Posted: 1/31/2016 11:58:10 PM EDT
[#24]
I think some people just don't want to spend a $200 stamp + engraving on a $40 lower. I wouldn't stamp a polymer lower but would have no problem doing a PSA or Anderson that I built and knew functioned well.
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Posted: 2/1/2016 11:01:26 PM EDT
[#25]
My last two SBR's are on DMPS and Anderson lowers. They work the same as my colts.
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Posted: 2/1/2016 11:22:02 PM EDT
[#26]
Besides the obvious - you want one that runs without issue - I'd say the following as support for going the high quality route:
SBR lowers are the ones you're most likely to keep long term because they don't make sense to sell. And over time, you may find yourself consolidating and moving towards having fewer higher quality guns (vs. lots of cheap/middle of the road guns). With that in mind, do you want to have some of your prized SBRs sitting on what will effectively be no name lowers in 10-20 years? I would hate to have my favorite ARs sitting on Service Merchandise and Bradlees lowers, and have to explain to my kids WTF those names mean. Just how I look at it. |
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Posted: 2/2/2016 10:14:40 AM EDT
[#27]
Forged has a better strength/weight ratio than billet. If you're really concerned about aesthetics and resale a factory sbr will probably be the best solution for you. Personally, I wouldn't want to try reselling a form 1 lower with my trust info on it. I just hand stamp with a cheap die set and a dead blow mallet. Looks like shit but it works and it's just a bushmaster lower so it's no huge loss. I did my Arx 100 freehand with a soldering iron. If I ever want to sell it I'll just go over it with a wide tip and call it custom stipled.
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Posted: 2/2/2016 7:37:12 PM EDT
[#28]
Make sure the lower you want the stamp for works. Other than that, it really doesn't matter who made it. My first was made by JD Machine with an SOG Armory mark, and my second was made by Quarter Circle 10 (billet). I verified they both worked before I got started with the paperwork. I'll point out that for my first one, I got the engraving done ahead of submitting the paperwork, in case there was a problem with it. For my second, I put in the application, then just took the lower to Bill Gray at Gray Laser Engraving and we chatted while his laser did its thing. If I'd known how good Bill's work was, I wouldn't have worried about the first one.
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