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Posted: 7/4/2015 11:07:43 PM EDT
I just bought a CZ SCORPION EVO 3 S1. I bought it because I thought it would kick ass to SBR it. I totally over looked 922(r). Looks like CZ is going to be selling a kit, but for the mean time I thought I could use a 3d printer to print out some parts. Since I’ll be drawing and printing them, they will be made in the USA.
Here what I was thinking. Please let me know if I’m off. The Scorpion has 16, 922(r) parts. We need to get that down to 10 so we need to convert 6. Image form CZ:  My plan is to replace the following: 1. Muzzle Attachment – Have a machine shop make a metric 18x1 thread protector till US made flash hider are available 2. Pistol Grip – 3D print one with better angle 3. Floor plate – 3D Print one 4. Trigger – 3D print one till we get some after markets 5. Buttstock – Any US made AR but stock 6. Follower – 3d print one – This one worries me. Don’t think 3d printed part can take the abuse but not sure what else I could do. I’m hoping that this will get me by untill US parts become more available. What do you all think of this plan? |
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Posted: 7/5/2015 1:05:43 AM EDT
[#1]
Interesting. How long do you think it would take you to complete this project?
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Posted: 7/5/2015 5:11:43 AM EDT
[#2]
Hopefully it will come it in this week. Just ordered it from PSA. Drawing the 3d parts should not be more then a month. the only thing is I don't know if the follower will hold up. Once a US trigger kits comes out, that will be 4 parts in that and I can add the follower back on and some other parts.
So the 922(r) 3d parts - about a month or two. As for the SBR - How ever long the paperwork takes. |
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Posted: 7/5/2015 8:56:53 AM EDT
[#3]
Interesting trigger on that. Looks like it's basically a 2-part ak trigger?
Should be a nice easy part to 3-d print since it does not have that much force on it. What I'd really like to see is a new sleek looking handguard. |
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Posted: 7/5/2015 9:17:06 AM EDT
[#4]
Get it printed in nylon or aluminum and it should hold up just fine.
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Posted: 7/8/2015 12:54:26 PM EDT
[#5]
OP, try this guy. He make adaptors for the scorpion and does great work
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Posted: 7/8/2015 12:59:27 PM EDT
[#6]
thanks!
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Posted: 7/8/2015 1:31:52 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote Historycan't open FB at work. Is that Morgan at Class III machining? If so, he has an ad in the gunsmithing EE. |
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Posted: 7/8/2015 1:40:45 PM EDT
[#8]
OP, if the follower doesn't hold up, reprint it. Otherwise, just cast some parts:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/676733_Fruity_Ghost___DIY_100s_of_ARs_cheaper__faster__gentler_.html Looks like you could cast the entire lower receiver. |
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Posted: 7/8/2015 4:15:24 PM EDT
[#9]
Why not mill yourself part #64
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Posted: 7/9/2015 1:19:36 PM EDT
[#10]
If you're going to print parts, well... you might as well make some modifications / improvements / customizations.
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Posted: 7/9/2015 2:37:02 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you're going to print parts, well... you might as well make some modifications / improvements / customizations. |
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Posted: 7/11/2015 9:42:11 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
can't open FB at work. Is that Morgan at Class III machining? If so, he has an ad in the gunsmithing EE. Quote HistoryQuoted:
can't open FB at work. Is that Morgan at Class III machining? If so, he has an ad in the gunsmithing EE. Yep. |
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Posted: 8/14/2015 8:38:02 PM EDT
[#13]
Any updates on how this turned out? And any chance you have the pistol grip as an STL file? I've been thinking about making some G3-style grips for mine... I'm waiting on my Form 1 and am looking at 922r parts myself.
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Posted: 10/10/2015 10:16:13 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any updates on how this turned out? And any chance you have the pistol grip as an STL file? I've been thinking about making some G3-style grips for mine... I'm waiting on my Form 1 and am looking at 922r parts myself. Sorry, Work has been crazy and I lost access to a 3d Printer. That has put a stop on this for now. I did finish drawing up the floor plate. Please note, that it's untested as I have not had a chances to print it out. If someone wants to print it out and let me know how it works, I'll take the feedback and make the edits as needed. Here is a untested floor plate. Link  |
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Posted: 10/11/2015 12:09:05 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any updates on how this turned out? And any chance you have the pistol grip as an STL file? I've been thinking about making some G3-style grips for mine... I'm waiting on my Form 1 and am looking at 922r parts myself. I drew out a grip last night with an 85 degree cant. Once again, Untested!!!! Print at your own risk. Link  |
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Posted: 10/13/2015 4:04:15 PM EDT
[#16]
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Posted: 12/6/2015 4:56:57 PM EDT
[#17]
I was a bit board yesterday. So I drew some triggers. Again, they are untested. If you do print one, let me know if I need to make any changes.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1178710  |
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Posted: 12/19/2015 4:13:15 PM EDT
[#18]
Update: I went ahead and used Shapeways.com to print out my parts. I did 2 of the triggers, the follower and the floor plate. I needed the floor plate and follower for 2 other mags, so that they will be for 922R compatible now that I have my SBR. Should be here by 12/30. I'll post how it goes. The follower and floor plat was not much to print out.
This is what it cost me: CZ Scorpion Trigger 3 Black Strong & Flexible x1 = $4.26 2245 Floor Plat 7.0 Black Strong & Flexible x2 = $12.68 CZ Scorpion Trigger 1 Black Strong & Flexible x1 = $4.07 CZ Floor Plate Black Strong & Flexible x1 = $11.29 CZ CZ Scorpion Follower 2 Black Strong & Flexible x1 =$7.72 USPS First-Class Shipping: $4.99 Sub-Total: $45.01 |
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Posted: 12/19/2015 4:40:09 PM EDT
[#19]
I take it you used ABS? I priced out your parts with nylon and aluminum on Shapeways and they were a lot more expensive. The grip was something like $150 in nylon.
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Posted: 12/19/2015 4:55:22 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I take it you used ABS? I priced out your parts with nylon and aluminum on Shapeways and they were a lot more expensive. The grip was something like $150 in nylon. |
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Posted: 12/19/2015 5:08:51 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I used the "Strong & Flexible Plastic" Option. I didn't see where you could choose nylon or aluminum, I did see Stainless Seal and brass. Maybe I'm missing something. if all goes will with the test print, I would like to have the follower done in aluminum. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I take it you used ABS? I priced out your parts with nylon and aluminum on Shapeways and they were a lot more expensive. The grip was something like $150 in nylon. You have to sign up for the pilot program for aluminum and nylon. |
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Posted: 12/19/2015 5:24:04 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You have to sign up for the pilot program for aluminum and nylon. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I take it you used ABS? I priced out your parts with nylon and aluminum on Shapeways and they were a lot more expensive. The grip was something like $150 in nylon. You have to sign up for the pilot program for aluminum and nylon. |
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Posted: 12/19/2015 6:25:27 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I see, thanks for the info. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I take it you used ABS? I priced out your parts with nylon and aluminum on Shapeways and they were a lot more expensive. The grip was something like $150 in nylon. You have to sign up for the pilot program for aluminum and nylon. What drawing program do you recommend for beginners? |
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Posted: 12/19/2015 7:47:35 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What drawing program do you recommend for beginners? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I take it you used ABS? I priced out your parts with nylon and aluminum on Shapeways and they were a lot more expensive. The grip was something like $150 in nylon. You have to sign up for the pilot program for aluminum and nylon. What drawing program do you recommend for beginners? let me know if you need help. |
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Posted: 12/23/2015 11:22:40 AM EDT
[#25]
Yeti makes good parts out of nylon12. They hold up really well.
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Posted: 12/24/2015 9:37:11 PM EDT
[#26]
Updates:
So I got the parts in today: Floor Plate: Every thing is go to go on the floor plate. Fit is good. The only thing I may update is to thicken the outer walls a Little.     Follower: I have some mistakes I need to address. The upper part slants down and i had some other things to tune up. It would go in the mag, but had some issues going all the way up. I think I know why and need to work on them.     Trigger: So close...They were to long. I'll need fix the lengths and the make the pocket a little deeper. I should of only painted one.   Well, $16 wasted...LOL.. The price of learning. not Bad...  I'll let you all know when and if I make the updates. As of now I took the non working ones off of thing a verse. |
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Posted: 12/25/2015 1:05:31 AM EDT
[#27]
Awesome work, keep it up!
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Posted: 12/28/2015 5:38:02 PM EDT
[#28]
Update:
I think I fixed the issues and sent them off to be printed. Learned about a feature in Fusion 360, witch allows you to print 2D drawings that are 1 to 1 when printed. I was able to print the drawings out to compare with the CZ follower. We will see how they work, when they come back from Shapeways.   |
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Posted: 1/5/2016 6:19:49 PM EDT
[#29]
Update: New parts are on the way. If everything goes well, I plan to do these next.
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Posted: 1/5/2016 8:55:52 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Update: New parts are on the way. If everything goes well, I plan to do these next. http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll434/hdc_ar15/Capture_2.jpg http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll434/hdc_ar15/FBHO%20Floor%20Plate%20v5%20v2%20v1.png Lol I'd buy like twenty of the FBHO ones |
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Posted: 1/5/2016 9:30:59 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Lol I'd buy like twenty of the FBHO ones Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Update: New parts are on the way. If everything goes well, I plan to do these next. http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll434/hdc_ar15/Capture_2.jpg http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll434/hdc_ar15/FBHO%20Floor%20Plate%20v5%20v2%20v1.png Lol I'd buy like twenty of the FBHO ones Tell you what, if everything looks good with the one I'll be getting in, I thicken the walls a little from the original ones I drew out, I'll post them up on www.shapeways.com, so you can by them there if you like. |
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Posted: 1/6/2016 2:38:29 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Tell you what, if everything looks good with the one I'll be getting in, I thicken the walls a little from the original ones I drew out, I'll post them up on www.shapeways.com, so you can by them there if you like. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Update: New parts are on the way. If everything goes well, I plan to do these next. http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll434/hdc_ar15/Capture_2.jpg http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll434/hdc_ar15/FBHO%20Floor%20Plate%20v5%20v2%20v1.png Lol I'd buy like twenty of the FBHO ones Tell you what, if everything looks good with the one I'll be getting in, I thicken the walls a little from the original ones I drew out, I'll post them up on www.shapeways.com, so you can by them there if you like. awesome!!!. also, I have been playing around with fusion 360 the last couple of weeks on and off. im so bad its not even funny. I have trouble understanding how to make compound shapes etc. like the trigger. how do you even begin to draw something like that let alone a whole gun? do you guys start drawing in 2d with the line tool and then extrude or something? |
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Posted: 1/6/2016 9:22:31 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: awesome!!!. also, I have been playing around with fusion 360 the last couple of weeks on and off. im so bad its not even funny. I have trouble understanding how to make compound shapes etc. like the trigger. how do you even begin to draw something like that let alone a whole gun? do you guys start drawing in 2d with the line tool and then extrude or something? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Update: New parts are on the way. If everything goes well, I plan to do these next. http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll434/hdc_ar15/Capture_2.jpg http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/ll434/hdc_ar15/FBHO%20Floor%20Plate%20v5%20v2%20v1.png Lol I'd buy like twenty of the FBHO ones Tell you what, if everything looks good with the one I'll be getting in, I thicken the walls a little from the original ones I drew out, I'll post them up on www.shapeways.com, so you can by them there if you like. awesome!!!. also, I have been playing around with fusion 360 the last couple of weeks on and off. im so bad its not even funny. I have trouble understanding how to make compound shapes etc. like the trigger. how do you even begin to draw something like that let alone a whole gun? do you guys start drawing in 2d with the line tool and then extrude or something? For fusion you do have to think in 2d first. The trigger is actually very easy. I started with a profile view of the trigger. I drew the profile of the center and the middle part. Then extruded the center fist, Then went back to the sketch and extruded the outer part. I'll take some screen shots when I get home. Then you cut out what you need. Like the channel on the top. You can start a sketch from any flat surface. That's what I did for the top. And extruded down to cut it out. Extrude, loft, and sweep can be used to create, join, or cut. If you like, IM me your user name and email address that you used for fusion, and I can give you access to a subfolder. In fusion, on the very bottom, it lets you play through the steps on how some one did something. That might help you out. |
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Posted: 1/6/2016 5:58:39 PM EDT
[#34]
tommyidone,
Here you go: Step 1: Draw the trigger profile  Step 2: Extrude the Front of the trigger with "symmetric" set as the direction.  Step 3: Extrude the Back of the trigger with "symmetric" set as the direction.  Step 4: Create a new sketch from the top. and draw the lines on where you will need to cut. Use Extrude to Cut down.  Round out the corners using Fillet command  That's it. Drawing the profile right is the hardest part. the dash lines are just construction lines to help put things in place. Like the circle. Hope that helps. |
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Posted: 1/7/2016 5:51:37 PM EDT
[#35]
Update: WOOHOOO!! Everything seems to be working Printed Floor Plate and Follower vs CZ Original:   Follower: Everything seems to fit and function as it should. The follower is about .2mm wider. Doesn’t appear to be much of an issue. The CZ Original drops in freely, this one does not, but it’s moves smoothly in the mag body. I’ll leave it with a full mag till this weekend when I’ll be able to test it out. It does hold open on the last round.     Trigger: I Like It! It fits nice and tight. One thing I really like is that it guides your finger to the middle flat area for a consistent pull of the trigger.    For those of you that have 3D printers, I will be putting them up on thingiverse.com soon. For those that do not have a 3d printer, I have put them up on Shapways site. You will have to search for it, because I do not want to link them form here, and violate any ARFCom rules. Please note I do not warranty or guarantee them. Download and use at your own risk. I'm only going to use them till CZ release US mag parts as I know they will be 100 times better then anything I will be able to do. Watch them release it tomorrow  .Thingiverse Link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1252363 |
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Posted: 1/7/2016 9:04:24 PM EDT
[#36]
F_ ME, CZ USA has US Mag parts in stock. https://shop.cz-usa.com/cz-products/scorpion-evo-3-s1-pistol/spare-parts |
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Posted: 1/8/2016 12:34:05 AM EDT
[#37]
so when i draw the trigger in 2d first. i try and extrude the front part of the trigger so i dont select the rear web portion and it extrudes fine but then after i complete the operation the back web just flat out disappears. not sure how to fix it.
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Posted: 1/8/2016 2:05:01 AM EDT
[#38]
okay i think i figured that out. i had to go to the timeline on the bottom and select the step where i drew the sketch of the backhalf and work from there. how do i select the top of the trigger as the workplane so that i can sketch on it?
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Posted: 1/8/2016 9:04:07 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: okay i think i figured that out. i had to go to the timeline on the bottom and select the step where i drew the sketch of the backhalf and work from there. how do i select the top of the trigger as the workplane so that i can sketch on it? The best way is on the Left, where it states "Browser". You will see bodies, Sketches, and other things. If you you the down arrow, on sketches, you will see your sketches, it's good CAD to rename those as you do them. I'm guilty of not doing that . You see how they have light bulbs? You can turn them off and on. The top layer turns them all off, and the individuals turns them off individually. So if you want to see a previous sketch, make sure the top layer is on, and the ones you want to see. Careful on turning off the top layer, if it's off, and you create a new sketch, it will not show up, cause it off. That drove me nuts ones and ended up with like 10 sketches I didn't need. |
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Posted: 1/8/2016 9:19:04 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The best way is on the Left, where it states "Browser". You will see bodies, Sketches, and other things. If you you the down arrow, on sketches, you will see your sketches, it's good CAD to rename those as you do them. I'm guilty of not doing that . You see how they have light bulbs? You can turn them off and on. The top layer turns them all off, and the individuals turns them off individually. So if you want to see a previous sketch, make sure the top layer is on, and the ones you want to see. Careful on turning off the top layer, if it's off, and you create a new sketch, it will not show up, cause it off. That drove me nuts ones and ended up with like 10 sketches I didn't need. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: okay i think i figured that out. i had to go to the timeline on the bottom and select the step where i drew the sketch of the backhalf and work from there. how do i select the top of the trigger as the workplane so that i can sketch on it? The best way is on the Left, where it states "Browser". You will see bodies, Sketches, and other things. If you you the down arrow, on sketches, you will see your sketches, it's good CAD to rename those as you do them. I'm guilty of not doing that . You see how they have light bulbs? You can turn them off and on. The top layer turns them all off, and the individuals turns them off individually. So if you want to see a previous sketch, make sure the top layer is on, and the ones you want to see. Careful on turning off the top layer, if it's off, and you create a new sketch, it will not show up, cause it off. That drove me nuts ones and ended up with like 10 sketches I didn't need. |
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Posted: 1/8/2016 12:24:32 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
F_ ME, CZ USA has US Mag parts in stock. https://shop.cz-usa.com/cz-products/scorpion-evo-3-s1-pistol/spare-parts Doesn't matter. You have successfully demonstrated a workable end-around 922r for ANY firearm imported. When someone brings in French FAMAS kits, this thread will be referenced, b/c this thread has the solution to US made parts. |
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Posted: 1/8/2016 12:49:06 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Doesn't matter. You have successfully demonstrated a workable end-around 922r for ANY firearm imported. When someone brings in French FAMAS kits, this thread will be referenced, b/c this thread has the solution to US made parts. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: F_ ME, CZ USA has US Mag parts in stock. https://shop.cz-usa.com/cz-products/scorpion-evo-3-s1-pistol/spare-parts Doesn't matter. You have successfully demonstrated a workable end-around 922r for ANY firearm imported. When someone brings in French FAMAS kits, this thread will be referenced, b/c this thread has the solution to US made parts. Thank you, I was also was thinking about how we could metal parts, and the fact that Shapeways also print in Casting Wax. I was thinking about this solution out lined on the following videos.. 1: Make this:  2: Use this method, but use the wax. This should work for Aluminum parts. |
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Posted: 1/8/2016 1:08:08 PM EDT
[#43]
This is another way to make plastic parts:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/676733_Fruity_Ghost___DIY_100s_of_ARs_cheaper__faster__gentler_.html |
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Posted: 1/18/2016 8:06:14 PM EDT
[#44]
Just got back home from a day at the range. Wanted to report that everything held up nicely. No issues what so ever. Ran about 100 rounds through the mag. I'm still liking the trigger, the design just puts the finger in the right spot for my finger.
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Posted: 1/19/2016 4:31:07 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just got back home from a day at the range. Wanted to report that everything held up nicely. No issues what so ever. Ran about 100 rounds through the mag. I'm still liking the trigger, the design just puts the finger in the right spot for my finger. great to hear man! i got some of those triggers you helped me design comming via shapeways as well. i made some other stuff too including a mag release. Ill let you know how it turns out!!! |
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Posted: 1/19/2016 10:11:44 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: great to hear man! i got some of those triggers you helped me design comming via shapeways as well. i made some other stuff too including a mag release. Ill let you know how it turns out!!! Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Just got back home from a day at the range. Wanted to report that everything held up nicely. No issues what so ever. Ran about 100 rounds through the mag. I'm still liking the trigger, the design just puts the finger in the right spot for my finger. great to hear man! i got some of those triggers you helped me design comming via shapeways as well. i made some other stuff too including a mag release. Ill let you know how it turns out!!! You better post pics! I truly have not seen any one else pick up and learn a CAD program so quickly. Any advise for others who think this might be too hard? |
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Posted: 1/19/2016 11:48:14 AM EDT
[#47]
just pick it up and start drawing things. Play with all the options and go from there. Also pic tech makes a great point about thinking in 2d. Always start out in 2d. When I start working on something like for instance a k baffle I start by drawing the side profile of it. There's tools to make things 3D. But you really need to get everything mapped out well first. sketch 2d and use the extrude or revolve functions to do the 3D work for you! Just like anything it just takes time.
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Posted: 1/19/2016 11:49:09 AM EDT
[#48]
What I'd really like to do is get a lathe and a mill and start making all these form 1 cans I've designed!!!
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Posted: 1/22/2016 2:04:00 AM EDT
[#49]
Just finished drawing this grip frame. I had to do a bunch of tweaking for the interior cutouts and to make sure all the shelfs were correct height. I wanted to get it printed but shape ways wants like 70 bucks almost. No thanks.
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Posted: 1/22/2016 8:27:15 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just finished drawing this grip frame. I had to do a bunch of tweaking for the interior cutouts and to make sure all the shelfs were correct height. I wanted to get it printed but shape ways wants like 70 bucks almost. No thanks. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/21/57b8cab4e2d98c7e6d7f2f40e69d2d36.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/21/d226318a7e59075fd8e12bc4b70b04a0.jpg That's a nice looking Grip! That must of took some time on the details. Did you drew half the part, then mirrored the other half? Something tells me you didn't, cause I don't see a mirror line in. Just a time saving tip on symmetrical parts. Did you also leave out the grip hole on purpose? I know the cost is a bit high when it comes to bigger parts, that's why I never printed mine. But mine was not that awesome. But even the Yeti Grip cost 60. The way I look at it, if I need something, that's not commercially available, I will do it form Shapeways. It's better then a spending 1k on a mediocre printer, or 3 K on a good one. Plus the, the Shapeways printer are a 1000 times better then what we can buy. Note on the screen shot, your PC has a tool called Snipping Tool. It's made to take screen shots so you dont' have to break out the camera. Good Job! I like it. |
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