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Posted: 7/9/2017 11:59:11 AM EDT
[#1]
In for info.
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Posted: 7/10/2017 7:44:37 PM EDT
[#2]
From my understand that's the long and short of it. Chuck it up, indicate, turn down the current shoulder down to the major diameter, pickup existing thread, continue thread until it runs off the barrel or up to a predetermined stopping point.
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Posted: 7/11/2017 10:35:54 AM EDT
[#3]
Is it advised for me to make my own Remage nut as well? From the looks of it I can just turn it from a 1.5" 4140 round bar.
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Posted: 7/11/2017 12:40:46 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is it advised for me to make my own Remage nut as well? From the looks of it I can just turn it from a 1.5" 4140 round bar. |
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Posted: 7/11/2017 4:16:59 PM EDT
[#5]
I think I will make the nut... if I can make a receiver it shouldn't be a big deal.
I think it's weird that I gotta use a special wrench to turn it so I can just make it round and machine flats into the nut so I can use a standard adjustable wrench... |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 11:47:12 PM EDT
[#6]
As thin walled as the nut will be concentrating the torque on 2 flats will effectively "crush" the nut and make acceptable tightening difficult to say the least.
That's why the spanner style nut is used, you can tighten a thin walled nut with a spanner style more effectively. |
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Posted: 7/18/2017 11:45:07 PM EDT
[#7]
Most, if any, factory barrels will have sufficient material left forward of the shoulder that can be threaded for a barrel nut conversion.
There's one other detail. The guy that can cut, thread, and chamber the rifle doesn't need a barrel nut. |
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Posted: 7/21/2017 11:35:14 AM EDT
[#8]
although I guess someone could offer to convert any barrel for a price... the question is will this require a 09 FFL and state department ITAR registration (even if he only receives barrel and no receivers)
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Posted: 7/22/2017 6:45:07 PM EDT
[#9]
ITAR registration? Yes if he is doing it for profit.
No need for a 09. A 07 would be required if the party doing the work is: A- Doing it "as a course of business" . B- Purchasing the receiver, performing the work and then selling for profit. If a customer brings the receiver to a Gunsmith and the 'Smith performs the work under contract for the customer then only a 01 is required. No FFL would be required of the person performing the work IF the work is ONLY machining barrels. If he takes in a serialized component (Firearm in the eyes of the BATFE), has possession of it for more than one business day OR charges a fee then he had best have his FFL. ITAR would still apply even if the party is not required to have a FFL. |
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Posted: 7/23/2017 6:38:29 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
I don't know if you guys heard of "Remage", which is where a Remington 700 barrel is made in such a way that a separate nut (like Savage) is fitted on the barrel, and then the receiver is simply screwed in until the headspace is right and tightened. You can buy barrels made this way but since I'm getting a lathe, I thought I could convert existing Remington 700 barrels... Is it just as simple as continuing the 1 1/16 - 16 TPI thread all the way until the barrel tapers out, and fitting a Remage nut to it? I plan to do that but I wonder if there's more to it... Nope, standard barrel should have enough meat on the shoulder to turn and thread the threads more muzzle forwards for the lock nut section. 
As for doing it, can't really think of a reason, since if you do swap barrels on the same bolted receiver, the bolt face will dictate the case rim type any way. So can see doing swap barrels in say 308 and 243, but then you have to add in another scope with quick mounts to you can change out pre-zeroed scopes for the fast change over as well . |
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Posted: 7/23/2017 9:26:08 PM EDT
[#11]
I only asked because some Remington 700 recoil lugs are thicker than others. But if you get a thicker recoil lug you're going to change the headspace. So either you machine off the receiver, or set the shoulder on the barrel back, but a Remage nut/barrel means you can use any thickness recoil lug you want without needing machining of components. Factory lug is .188" thick but some are .250" or more.
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Posted: 7/24/2017 7:54:18 PM EDT
[#12]
No, the recoil shoulder that would normaly be against the barrel shoulder, is turned and threaded from that point backwards so you using the threaded nut.
So it still stays receiver, barrel lug, then instead of a barrel shoulder against the recoil lug, it just the barrel nut instead. |
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Posted: 9/10/2017 2:16:26 PM EDT
[#13]
Too bad this wasn't around when Mauser actions were cheap and plentiful. 20 years ago, whenever I'd talk to a local gunsmith about replacing and timing a new barrel, they didn't act too interested.
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Posted: 9/24/2017 6:18:36 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nope, standard barrel should have enough meat on the shoulder to turn and thread the threads more muzzle forwards for the lock nut section. http://rifleshooter.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/DSC_0448.jpg As for doing it, can't really think of a reason, since if you do swap barrels on the same bolted receiver, the bolt face will dictate the case rim type any way. So can see doing swap barrels in say 308 and 243, but then you have to add in another scope with quick mounts to you can change out pre-zeroed scopes for the fast change over as well . I have a Panda action and both .223 and .308 bolts for the action. Barrels just screw in to the square shoulder. |
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Posted: 9/24/2017 9:52:04 PM EDT
[#15]
lost here on your panda action,
Are you saying that your bolt face can be swapped to run both calibors or that you are running two different bolts for each caliber instead. As for the method in question, it just a mater of adding threading for and added jam nut, this way you can set head space to the bolt via a head space gauge. Hence head space gauge on the bolt face, spin the barrel in on the threads until it gauges correctly, then lock the barrel off to the receiver via the jam nut (the savage way). Without the extra jam nut, then you would have to head space the barrel via the barrel flat against the receiver face like on a standard barrel installed to a receiver, and although this may hold up for a few barrel swaps, at some point your going to over peen the barrel shoulder/receiver front face from too much torque, ending up with the head space too tight on a barrel swaps instead. Plus that fact that you are having to clamp the barrel each time (could end with marring on the barrel), and even torquing on the receiver that could torque twist the action or maring the bolt lug channels on the receiver as well. Plus lets face it, you need the action wrench to torque wrench, barrel vise bolt to a sturdy table to pull this off, so it not like you going to be able to swap barrels while you in a blind or hunting tent like you can with a savage type action. https://www.kelbly.com/brochures/2015-6-16/KelblyOwnersManualWeb.pdf |
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Posted: 9/25/2017 2:17:26 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
lost here on your panda action, Are you saying that your bolt face can be swapped to run both calibors or that you are running two different bolts for each caliber instead. As for the method in question, it just a mater of adding threading for and added jam nut, this way you can set head space to the bolt via a head space gauge. Hence head space gauge on the bolt face, spin the barrel in on the threads until it gauges correctly, then lock the barrel off to the receiver via the jam nut (the savage way). Without the extra jam nut, then you would have to head space the barrel via the barrel flat against the receiver face like on a standard barrel installed to a receiver, and although this may hold up for a few barrel swaps, at some point your going to over peen the barrel shoulder/receiver front face from too much torque, ending up with the head space too tight on a barrel swaps instead. Plus that fact that you are having to clamp the barrel each time (could end with marring on the barrel), and even torquing on the receiver that could torque twist the action or maring the bolt lug channels on the receiver as well. Plus lets face it, you need the action wrench to torque wrench, barrel vise bolt to a sturdy table to pull this off, so it not like you going to be able to swap barrels while you in a blind or hunting tent like you can with a savage type action. https://www.kelbly.com/brochures/2015-6-16/KelblyOwnersManualWeb.pdf On many types of actions. The BR designed actions for switch barrel have a square shoulder on the barrel to allow easy swapping. There is no reason for any huge torque on the barrel to the action. I have a witness mark on each barrel and on the action yo ensure they are properly attached. I can call Kelbly's with the serial number of my action and they can deliver a barrel that will screw on and have correct headspace. Put the bolt for the barrels chamber in the gun and fire away. |
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Posted: 9/26/2017 2:21:35 AM EDT
[#17]
Just an observation:
I read Remington (or any other bolt action) barrels can be screwed in hand tight and it would still function properly. I have tightened the barrel down a LOT, vs. hand tight and the headspace has NOT changed at all. I didn't use a headspace gauge however just used a fired case run through a full length resizing die all the way in, and then using that case as the gauge and adjust until the bolt closes on it with some effort (it should feel like there's some resistance, if no resistance then headspace is excessive). I don't think I would ever fire a rifle with the barrel screwed on hand tight myself, but I gotten it not so tight that it still works. So there is no need to really torque it down, and a torque wrench is not necessary. Factory torques it massively so the average person can't unscrew it and mess things up. |
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Posted: 9/27/2017 12:11:44 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just an observation: I read Remington (or any other bolt action) barrels can be screwed in hand tight and it would still function properly. I have tightened the barrel down a LOT, vs. hand tight and the headspace has NOT changed at all. I didn't use a headspace gauge however just used a fired case run through a full length resizing die all the way in, and then using that case as the gauge and adjust until the bolt closes on it with some effort (it should feel like there's some resistance, if no resistance then headspace is excessive). I don't think I would ever fire a rifle with the barrel screwed on hand tight myself, but I gotten it not so tight that it still works. So there is no need to really torque it down, and a torque wrench is not necessary. Factory torques it massively so the average person can't unscrew it and mess things up. |
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