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Posted: 6/26/2017 12:40:09 PM EDT
Better than locktite or good luck ever getting it back off again?
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 12:46:06 PM EDT
[#1]
Why?? Just use some blue locktite and forget about it.
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 1:00:15 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
Better than locktite or good luck ever getting it back off again?
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Can always get it off with a torch, but it might be overkill. Blue loctite is too low-temp, though - needs at least red.
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 1:10:27 PM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
Why?? Just use some blue locktite and forget about it.
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Because loctite can only get so hot before it fails. Same reason you don't use loctite on a qd suppressor adapter. SLR rifleworks actually says to use rocksett in their install manual but i know how difficult it can be to remove.
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 1:29:03 PM EDT
[#4]
use Rocksett, as long as you understand that it takes a water soak and torque to remove it
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 1:37:55 PM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:
use Rocksett, as long as you understand that it takes a water soak and torque to remove it
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I do, 24 hours. I was just wondering if anyone had any bad experiences with this.
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 2:22:07 PM EDT
[#6]
I used it on my Form 1 Suppressor Caps and could not remove them without soaking first.  They would not budge.  After a day long soak they came off easy with little torque.  So I am convinced that this stuff works extremely well.  Only use it if you are comfortable with soaking in water for up to 12 hours would be my advice.  Oh yeah, I had that thing so hot that it was  cherry red, so it handles heat well.
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 2:27:34 PM EDT
[#7]
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Quoted:
Because loctite can only get so hot before it fails. Same reason you don't use loctite on a qd suppressor adapter. SLR rifleworks actually says to use rocksett in their install manual but i know how difficult it can be to remove.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Why?? Just use some blue locktite and forget about it.
Because loctite can only get so hot before it fails. Same reason you don't use loctite on a qd suppressor adapter. SLR rifleworks actually says to use rocksett in their install manual but i know how difficult it can be to remove.
Loctitie has three temperture 'version.'

The standard one is the blue grade.
It is NOT very heat resistant at all.

Then come 'locking' grade that is usually red.
It requires around 400 F to soften.
Use near an engine but NOT on heads or exhaust lines.

'Staking' grades are green usually and require around 600 F to release.
It can be used to lock head bolts and head studs reliably.
It often requires a torch on the bolt or stud to break it loose.

It can take a decent amount of time to heat a head bolt up from the top since they can be pretty long.

Studs allow you to heat the head nut quickly and then remove them.

Then it is easy to heat the stud down at the block end and remove it.

I almost never put an engine back together using bolts if I have had the heads off.

Just buy a stud set.

Neither should be re-used again anyway.

Once they are torqued the shaft has been stretched.

It will NOT stretch correctly a second time.
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 2:33:21 PM EDT
[#8]
Why aren't gas blocks pinned like a front sight base?
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 2:47:49 PM EDT
[#9]
Blue or red for me.  I've never had an issue with either.  If you're concerned, use red.

I'm not using Green (bearing retainer).  Takes too much heat to break it free.  I tend to think of it as "damn near" permanent.
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 3:32:59 PM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:
Why aren't gas blocks pinned like a front sight base?
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Will a spring roll pin have enough length to develop enough withdrawal tension?

Either a spiral spring or just a single layer rolled might be workable.
Link Posted: 6/26/2017 3:52:23 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:
Why aren't gas blocks pinned like a front sight base?
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Most are - but a lot of DIY folks like the option to use a set-screw gas block instead of one which has to be drilled and pinned.
Link Posted: 6/30/2017 2:55:01 AM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:

Most are - but a lot of DIY folks like the option to use a set-screw gas block instead of one which has to be drilled and pinned.
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I would say the opposite.  Most LPGBs are NOT going to be pinned as you pretty much have to go out of your way to use that method unless you have the tools/skills to pin it yourself.  Hell, .mil B2 SOPMOD M4A1s (at least the ones that used the non-FSP version of the RIS II) and CQBRs use set screw mounted gas blocks without any sort of pinning.
Link Posted: 6/30/2017 1:25:25 PM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:
I do, 24 hours. I was just wondering if anyone had any bad experiences with this.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
use Rocksett, as long as you understand that it takes a water soak and torque to remove it
I do, 24 hours. I was just wondering if anyone had any bad experiences with this.
I have actually.  But it was due to the original builder of the rifle using red Loctite.  They didn't clean the red compound off before adding copious amounts of Rocksett

To remove, it took... a lot of torque.  A bandsaw may have been used at some point to correct other mistakes made on the same rifle.
I would simply recommend good cleaning before application.
Link Posted: 7/1/2017 9:17:42 AM EDT
[#14]
Link Posted: 7/20/2017 9:11:21 PM EDT
[#15]
I've applied just a sliver of rocksett on the last thread with a toothpick on gas block screws. Heat won't make it come loose. If I need to remove the screw, just a bump with the right Allen wrench will break it for removal.


Enough to remain, immune from heat and can be removed.
Link Posted: 8/18/2017 2:46:37 AM EDT
[#16]
I use high heat blue.  

Good enough to withstand barrel temps, super easy to remove if I want to.  

No soak, no need to heat to break it loose.  Perfect for gas blocks.
Link Posted: 8/18/2017 3:25:38 AM EDT
[#17]
A dimpled barrel and correct plug screws. Red lock tite if you must.
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