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Posted: 4/23/2016 6:30:18 AM EDT
[#1]
4140 is good so is O1 tool steel if you properly heat treat to Rc 45-50 or so. S7 would be best but a bit more $.
For small quantities try McMaster-Carr |
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Posted: 4/25/2016 2:47:11 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
4140 is good so is O1 tool steel if you properly heat treat to Rc 45-50 or so. S7 would be best but a bit more $. For small quantities try McMaster-Carr IMHO, I would skip the 4140 and go straight to a quality tool steel. S7 is a pretty good recommendation with a proper heat treating setup, that would be my choice. |
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Posted: 4/26/2016 12:40:06 AM EDT
[#3]
Thanks guys. Can the S7 be machined with standard HSS tooling?
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Posted: 4/26/2016 12:45:05 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks guys. Can the S7 be machined with standard HSS tooling? Yes, no problem pre-hardened, but obviously carbide would be better |
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Posted: 4/27/2016 6:09:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Just whatever you do, don't stop the endmill in the middle of a cut if you use S7. It work hardens almost instantly from the friction of the endmill against it.
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Posted: 4/28/2016 10:02:01 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just whatever you do, don't stop the endmill in the middle of a cut if you use S7. It work hardens almost instantly from the friction of the endmill against it. Good to know. I'm using a manual machine... |
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Posted: 4/29/2016 6:00:15 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good to know. I'm using a manual machine... Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Just whatever you do, don't stop the endmill in the middle of a cut if you use S7. It work hardens almost instantly from the friction of the endmill against it. Good to know. I'm using a manual machine... |
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Posted: 4/29/2016 1:14:01 PM EDT
[#8]
It is not a large part.
A piece of O1 tool steel and a torch to anneal it for forming. Then harden and drop in oil. Anneal. Adjust edge with stones. |
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Posted: 5/5/2016 1:56:26 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It is not a large part. A piece of O1 tool steel and a torch to anneal it for forming. Then harden and drop in oil. Anneal. Adjust edge with stones. What is the thought behind annealing it before hardening and then annealing it again after hardening? |
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Posted: 5/7/2016 10:25:42 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is the thought behind annealing it before hardening and then annealing it again after hardening? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
It is not a large part. A piece of O1 tool steel and a torch to anneal it for forming. Then harden and drop in oil. Anneal. Adjust edge with stones. What is the thought behind annealing it before hardening and then annealing it again after hardening? Working on annealed metal is easier and often more precise. You then harden the metal. Localized hardening is often a PITA on a small part. Just harden the whole thing. Anneal it to then leave a hard surface with better wear characteristics and less chance of fracturing or chipping at sharp edges. |
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Posted: 5/8/2016 4:55:49 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Working on annealed metal is easier and often more precise. In most cases, unless you specifically order it otherwise, tool-steels come annealed already. No need to anneal again unless you're just dying to burn oven time. FWIW, annealling S7 requires heating to at least 1550 then cooling at a rate not to exceed 50 degrees per hour. So it's a 2-day job just to annealed. O1 has a slower cooling rate yet. You then harden the metal. Localized hardening is often a PITA on a small part. Just harden the whole thing. Anneal it to then leave a hard surface with better wear characteristics and less chance of fracturing or chipping at sharp edges.How do you propose this is done? Are you saying to just anneal a certain spot and not the hard surface? How is it possible to get the inner core to annealing temperature then slowly ramp it down slowly without getting the surface over 600 degrees? If you want a hard surface but soft inner structure (for shock resistance) then it's better to use a metal like 8620 etc and carburize it so only the surface hardens. Your suggestion to us O1 seems a bit out of place with your process. S7 is a shock resistant tool-steel (note the S in the name), there is no need for the processing you suggest except for maybe a temper to reduce brittleness. Did you mean to say "temper" instead of your 2nd "anneal"? |
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Posted: 5/10/2016 7:52:49 AM EDT
[#12]
You would want to "harden" and then "temper" the sear, not anneal. If you anneal a sear bad things will happen.
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Posted: 5/12/2016 11:09:23 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You would want to "harden" and then "temper" the sear, not anneal. If you anneal a sear bad things will happen. Technically temper. Same oven at a lower temp. It is easy to look up the temps for 'graded' steel. |
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Posted: 5/18/2016 10:25:25 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
IMHO, I would skip the 4140 and go straight to a quality tool steel. S7 is a pretty good recommendation with a proper heat treating setup, that would be my choice. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
4140 is good so is O1 tool steel if you properly heat treat to Rc 45-50 or so. S7 would be best but a bit more $. For small quantities try McMaster-Carr IMHO, I would skip the 4140 and go straight to a quality tool steel. S7 is a pretty good recommendation with a proper heat treating setup, that would be my choice. Exactly! This! |
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